Electric Fuel pump options for heat soak/vapor lock problems

[CudaJon]

OK thank you everyone for responding, I wish you guys lived closer - 

Here is what I know about the engine, its a 1970 block with headers but have no idea on the cam other than it's a "mild" one if that makes sense and so looking at my note book, the carburetor as mentioned is Edelbrock 1806S 1886. Here are my notes when I tuned it in 2019.

At 800RPM (idle)
1. Idle_21st_timing = 9Degs
2. Vac_idle = 1"Hg

Disconnected Vac line to Dist, Ran engine to 3000RPMs
3. Idle_mech_2nd_time = 29Degs
4. Vac_2nd = 25" Hg
Calculated Adv_timing as 21Degs
Calculated Mech_timing as 20Degs

Recorded manifold pressure of 16-17"Hg at 850-900RPMs
Idle w/full Vac Adv ~ 30-32Degs, at 3000 RPMs it's 50Degs

Big question here is - are these good numbers?? should I be tuning it to something else??  it's been about 2 years I think I should at least go back and redo the procedure and see what I got.


BTW, I also talked to Coolcarb, forgot his name but very helpful and basically say the poly insulator will melt so I would be very interested on how you make out Poolshark.

It does have electronic ignition and have not touched the distributor - interesting comment on the magnetic pickup may try that if that can just dropped in. Kinda forgot how the dist cap is built.

I will check this weekend (if it doesn't f'in rain) if I get a spark when the engine has been heated up. Thanks!!

[jimynick]

Cars, like women, have their own ways. I had a '72 340 that if you so much as looked at the gas pedal, would flood and hard start. Try getting in the car, when it's warm, and just turn the key and see what happens. Who knows, you may get lucky. Also, put a induction gauge on the battery positive cable to see what kind of amperage it's drawing when you're experiencing the hard start, because it sounds like it may be heat soak at work in the starter. Check all connections, especially the engine grounds, as well. Good luck 

[GoodysGotaCuda]

I had a very simple Carter electric fuel pump that didn't need a regulator on my Warlock and never had an issue, it was 100% better than my old mechanical pump. I mounted it right next to where the factory pump is under the hood, worked great.

[Cudajason]

OK thank you everyone for responding, I wish you guys lived closer - 

Here is what I know about the engine, its a 1970 block with headers but have no idea on the cam other than it's a "mild" one if that makes sense and so looking at my note book, the carburetor as mentioned is Edelbrock 1806S 1886. Here are my notes when I tuned it in 2019.

At 800RPM (idle)
1. Idle_21st_timing = 9Degs
2. Vac_idle = 1"Hg

Disconnected Vac line to Dist, Ran engine to 3000RPMs
3. Idle_mech_2nd_time = 29Degs
4. Vac_2nd = 25" Hg
Calculated Adv_timing as 21Degs
Calculated Mech_timing as 20Degs

Recorded manifold pressure of 16-17"Hg at 850-900RPMs
Idle w/full Vac Adv ~ 30-32Degs, at 3000 RPMs it's 50Degs

Big question here is - are these good numbers?? should I be tuning it to something else??  it's been about 2 years I think I should at least go back and redo the procedure and see what I got.


BTW, I also talked to Coolcarb, forgot his name but very helpful and basically say the poly insulator will melt so I would be very interested on how you make out Poolshark.

It does have electronic ignition and have not touched the distributor - interesting comment on the magnetic pickup may try that if that can just dropped in. Kinda forgot how the dist cap is built.

I will check this weekend (if it doesn't f'in rain) if I get a spark when the engine has been heated up. Thanks!!

Are you running a 4 speed or an auto?

If an auto are the above numbers with the the car in Drive?

Jason

[Cratos]

I went the w :Drought of 1/4 inch carb heat spacers and an return fuel system . all fuel related stuff fixed!!

[torredcuda]

As others have said you need to diagnos the issue more and see if you have good spark and fuel is coming out of the squirters when you open the throttle. If you take the air cleaner off and open the throttle by hand you should see a squirt of fuel from the carburator. If there is I don`t think it is vapor lock, if there is no fuel coming out then it could be draining back, vapor lock or carb bowls leaking out into engine causing it to flood.

[7212Mopar]

1 in-hg vacuum at idle don't sound right. Even a long duration cam will be in the 7 to 10 range. Stock cam probably 18-21 range.

[DeathProofCuda]

1 in-hg vacuum at idle don't sound right. Even a long duration cam will be in the 7 to 10 range. Stock cam probably 18-21 range.

Yeah, a lot of those numbers don't really look right, but the way they are presented is also a bit confusing.  Later he says the manifold pressure is 16 to 17 " Hg at 850 to 900 rpms, so that seems to be in the right ballpark at least.

Are you really running 30 to 32 degrees of advance at idle with the vacuum advance connected?

[Cudajason]

1 in-hg vacuum at idle don't sound right. Even a long duration cam will be in the 7 to 10 range. Stock cam probably 18-21 range.

Yeah, a lot of those numbers don't really look right, but the way they are presented is also a bit confusing.  Later he says the manifold pressure is 16 to 17 " Hg at 850 to 900 rpms, so that seems to be in the right ballpark at least.

Are you really running 30 to 32 degrees of advance at idle with the vacuum advance connected?

OK so I am not the only one confused by those numbers.

@CudaJon I think you need to run through a proper tune up first to make sure the timing and carb are set up correctly.  Or at least verify the timing and vacuum.  that could be the source of your problems.

[CudaJon]

OK - well then enough said, I will redo the numbers and explain better how I got them, this is getting interesting. As always it's a learning experience. BTW the car is a 4 speed which I forgot to mention.  OK standby

[CudaJon]

I wanted to share the timing procedure that I'm using. I'm sure I said this before I'm not a mechanical guy ( I push electrons around) so if you  think this procedure is wrong or needs something. Please let me know.  As always thanks to everyone responding.

http://tvmoparclub.com/files/tech/Mopar%20Timing.pdf

[DeathProofCuda]

I wanted to share the timing procedure that I'm using. I'm sure I said this before I'm not a mechanical guy ( I push electrons around) so if you  think this procedure is wrong or needs something. Please let me know.  As always thanks to everyone responding.

http://tvmoparclub.com/files/tech/Mopar%20Timing.pdf

I just skimmed it, but IMHO, that procedure is awful and way too complicated.  It also appears that you weren't really following it, because you stated above that you had 50 degrees of advance at 3,000 rpm with the vacuum advanced connected.  Your procedure states that initial + mechanical + vacuum advance have to be less than 35 degrees (which is wrong BTW).  Your initial + mechanical should max out at approximately 34 to 38 degrees by 3,000 rpp, but vacuum advance can pull you up into the 50s at no load, cruise conditions and you'll be fine as long the engine isn't pinging.

I think you'd be better off scraping that procedure and watching a few episodes of Uncle Tony's Garage on YouTube.  He has some pretty good tutorials on engine tuning.

Your numbers above indicate that you have vacuum advance working when the car is at idle.  Do you have your vacuum advance connected to a manifold vacuum or ported vacuum connection?

[CudaJon]

So I do have a question which DeathProofCuda brought up.  Right now my Vacuum advance on my distributor is connected to the right side of my Edelbrock  which I believe is full time or manifold vacuum.  Is this correct or should it be ported vacuum?

[7212Mopar]

It should be connected to the ported vacuum.

[CudaJon]

Gotta ya - thanks!