RH transmission - The Result

[Cudajason]

@chargerdon - thanks for that detailed post man...very helpful! 

Attached is a pic of the numbers on the pan rail...If I am reading it correctly (1648, the build date is Jun 13, 1998.

@BIGSHCLUNK, I have never seen those before, I will look into picking some up, we have Uline here in the great white north!

Jason

If the date is 1998 the trans would be a RE not an RH... And since it has the three pin connector it's clearly an RH..

so I clearly have no idea how to read the 4 digit date codes!!! Which is what I expected. I am just not a numbers guy!!!

Ok wait would that make it an 1988 build date????

Jason

[chargerdon]

Using a spreadsheet i found at https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/ubb/download/Number/57405/filename/5615592-10000DayCalendarSml.xls

that date would be June 18'th 1993.    The way the 10,000 day system works is day 1 is july 29'th 1961.   Why?  I don't know...  My guess is that is the day that mopar decided on using a 10,000 day system.    so your number 1648 translates to Jan 31 1966.   Clearly that cant be correct so add 10,000 for a roll over and then you have 11648.  put that in cell a4 and it comes to June 18'th 1993.    Now this date makes sense. 

Or do it manually...  364.25 days in a year so 10 years = 3641...  etc...   in other words ever 27.45 years it would roll over to 1 

ASSUMING that is correct when you order your rebuild kit make sure it covers that date.   

Chargerdon

[chargerdon]

That spreadsheet is on https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/531003/10-000-day-calendar-help.html

[Cudajason]

Using a spreadsheet i found at https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/ubb/download/Number/57405/filename/5615592-10000DayCalendarSml.xls

that date would be June 18'th 1993.    The way the 10,000 day system works is day 1 is july 29'th 1961.   Why?  I don't know...  My guess is that is the day that mopar decided on using a 10,000 day system.    so your number 1648 translates to Jan 31 1966.   Clearly that cant be correct so add 10,000 for a roll over and then you have 11648.  put that in cell a4 and it comes to June 18'th 1993.    Now this date makes sense. 

Or do it manually...  364.25 days in a year so 10 years = 3641...  etc...   in other words ever 27.45 years it would roll over to 1 

ASSUMING that is correct when you order your rebuild kit make sure it covers that date.   

Chargerdon

Thanks man that is very helpful!

[chargerdon]

Jason, I'd get a few oil pads under it before the tear down. Seeing you don't have a tranny tear down bench.  I don't care how well its drained , automatics hide lots of fluid in the internal nooks an crannies. If you cant get pads I will mail you some. We something close to this at the shop       
https://www.uline.com/Product/Detail/S-17298/Sorbents-and-Spill-Kits/Oil-Only-Sorbent-Pads-15-x-19-Heavy?pricode=WB4058&utm_source=Bing&utm_medium=pla&utm_term=S-17298&utm_campaign=Janitorial%2BSupplies&utm_source=Bing&utm_medium=pla&utm_term=S-17298&utm_campaign=Janitorial%2BSupplies&msclkid=001ee2dfe7aa1711a5e9bccf07dda0a1&gclid=CIGeyKvQ6uYCFaOwZQodc_UB9Q&gclsrc=ds

I didn't use pads, instead, i bought a drip tray from advance auto, put it on it during disassembly.   Then when it would start to get messy, lift the transmission off (once tail section off a lot lighter), and drain it into an old gallon oil container.   See: https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/flotool-galvanized-drip-tray-11430mi/9016759-p

[Cudajason]

Well got some time to pull everything apart.

Got the case torn down, no issues.

Two issues with the overdrive...snapped the spedometer gear reatiner bolt and the screws for the snap ring cover pictured below will not budge.

I am spraying them with PB Blaster every time I leave the house and this I will hit them with some heat and see what happens.

[RUNCHARGER]

The steel to aluminum makes those tough. Do you have an impact driver?

[Cudajason]

The steel to aluminum makes those tough. Do you have an impact driver?

@RUNCHARGER   do you mean the power tool or the old school hand style?

Jason

[RUNCHARGER]

Either-or Jason. In the old days I would use the old impact drivers that you smack with a hammer. I think the new battery operated ones would help on these but I haven't had to remove those dang screws in years.

[Cudajason]

Either-or Jason. In the old days I would use the old impact drivers that you smack with a hammer. I think the new battery operated ones would help on these but I haven't had to remove those dang screws in years.

Fair enough. I am a little afraid the gun will strip the screws. Might give it a go!!!

[JS29]

@Cuda jason I have had decent luck using valve grinding compound on the tip. you can feel it grip. It works well on Philips head screws as well. 

[jimynick]

@Cuda jason I have had decent luck using valve grinding compound on the tip. you can feel it grip. It works well on Philips head screws as well. 

There's  GOOD TIP, AND I'd take a pick and carefully clean out the bolt's socket to ensure you're getting the max contact. Jason, if you don't have a hand impact driver, you can use mine, just let me know and I'd drop it off for you if it'll help. 

[gzig5]

At least they are Torx, a lot less likely to strip out.  If they do strip, you can use a center punch on the periphery of the bolt head to loosen them.  The shock/impact will help.   I had to do that with untold number of stainless steel flathead socket screws back in the day.  Failing that, drill the head out.

[Cudajason]

@Cuda jason I have had decent luck using valve grinding compound on the tip. you can feel it grip. It works well on Philips head screws as well. 

There's  GOOD TIP, AND I'd take a pick and carefully clean out the bolt's socket to ensure you're getting the max contact. Jason, if you don't have a hand impact driver, you can use mine, just let me know and I'd drop it off for you if it'll help. 

Thanks Ian, @jimynick.  I will take you up on that!!  Give me a call and we can set something up.  I figure it can't hurt to try it!

Jason

[jimynick]

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