Small Block Intake Install Questions

[Daveh]

Hey guys,

I'm about to install my new intake on my 340 and I have a couple of questions.  Just looking for any tricks so I do it correctly the first time.  Thanks

1.   Do I seal any of the ports with RTV or Gasgacinch either on the intake or heads?  Or do I just install them dry?  The Edelbrock   instructions say to use the Gasgacinch.  I've also used Sure Tack in the past just to hold them in place for installation.  I'm used to doing Chevy's where you seal the water passages on the ends with RTV.   

2.   Do I use thread sealant or RTV on the pipe plugs that I put into the intake?

3.   Do I use thread sealant or RTV on the intake bolts so I don't have any oil seeping up and out of the bolts?

4.   I'm using the FelPro gasket below and it came with 2 separate round gaskets.  A small flat gasket and a rubber O ring.  I'm guessing these are for the distributor?

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fel-1213s3/overview/make/dodge

Thanks
Dave

[Shane Kelley]

Here's how I do them. That's the exact gaskets I use.
Dry on the intake gasket with just a little sealant to hold it in place. I usually put a couple bolts in the gaskets until the sealant holds. See pic.
Remove the pin at each end of the block where the intake sits. There is one at each end right in the center.
Don't use the end gaskets. Use a bead of gasket maker on the ends instead. Be sure and run a little up onto the gasket in all 4 corners. Don't let the sealant skin over. Get the intake on immediately. I usually let them set 24 hours before adding any fluids or starting.
Use Teflon tape on your intake bolts and pipe plugs and fittings.
Yes the o ring and flat round gasket is for the distributor.
On the thermostat housing I use a small film of sealant on both sides of the gasket or I just use gasket maker sealant only. Those things tend to be pesky sometimes seeping. 
People do things differently so this is not the only way it can be done. But this is how I do them and it works.

[Chryco Psycho]

There should be 4 red plastic rings in the set also , these push into the second hole from each end of the cylinder head  & hold the side gaskets in place , most have no clue what these are for .
You can use the cork end seals as I do with silicone in each corner  or just use a thick layer of silicone to seal the end rails , you will notice there are small holes 1/2 way across the rail you can install a pin in there to hold the middle of the cork gasket in place , with new intake you may have to drill a small hole into the intake for clearance  or at least be sure the pin is not holding the intake up , I have seen factory engines with the pins still in place too .
I Would use thread sealer on any plug into the intake & also the bolt threads to stop oil seepage as you mentioned .

[Shane Kelley]

These Fel Pro's don't have the retaining rings Chryco is referring to. Come to think of it I haven't seen them in any gasket set in a while. 
That's why I suggested to basically glue them into position. I just use a little bit of the gasket maker around the area where I bolted the gasket into position.

[Daveh]

Why the Teflon tape over thread sealant or RTV.  Don't you run the risk of some of the tape coming off and getting in the engine?  Plus how would that affect the torque specs when tightening down the intake?  Thanks

[Shane Kelley]

Why the Teflon tape over thread sealant or RTV.  Don't you run the risk of some of the tape coming off and getting in the engine?  Plus how would that affect the torque specs when tightening down the intake?  Thanks

You can use either. This is just what I like to use. Thread sealant would be better than RTV on the threads. You can't get a torque wrench on most my intake bolts and can barley get a wrench on some of them. I just tighten them by feel. After you have done it a million times you know what feels right.

[Burdar]

 
Test fit the intake first.  Put the gaskets on the heads dry.  Set the intake in place.  Look at all the bolt holes and make sure they line up with the head. Some SB intakes can be a pain to get the bolts started...if the block and/or heads have been milled.  For that reason, I like to thread the bolts in a few turns in ALL the holes during the test fitment.  This ensures that you won't have any issues when the final install takes place. 

The last thing you want is to set the intake in place with silicone on the end rails...THEN find out you can't start some of the bolts. Been there...done that.

[IRON MAN]

Burdar....so true. I just went through that. Made the mistake assuming the new AirGap intake bolt holes would line up with the cylinder head bolt holes. Wrong. Had to remove the intake leaving a mess of RTV silicone to clean up. As you said, got to work fast before the RTV silicone sets up. Couple intake bolt holes need rat tail filing a  wee bit longer because of the thickness of the gaskets. As you said, it is best to trial fit the intake by threading in all the bolts loosely with the gaskets in place.