Trying to Stay Cool - FIXED!!!!

[Jay Bee]

Hamilton dealer has it on sale

https://www.moparpartscanada.ca/oem-parts/mopar-shroud-p2998326?c=az0x

[dodj]

Hamilton dealer has it on sale

https://www.moparpartscanada.ca/oem-parts/mopar-shroud-p2998326?c=az0x

Hah! I put one in the cart then got an estimate for shipping to my house.  Get this.....$95 shipping!!

Thanks for the tip...but.....

Ordered from the local dealer. They want $119 but there's no shipping.

If I get the last one in inventory Jason, I'll sell it to you....your thread after all.

[Filthy Filbert]

If you decide you want to still try an e-fan, don't buy anything aftermarket.  Those fans are garbage.   OEM electric fans move a LOT more air than any of the parts store electric fans.   My favorite is the jeep cherokee fan. 19" diameter and moves a ton of air.   

[dodj]

@Cuda jason
Just picked up the shroud that Alan referenced a few posts ago. It looks like it will match up with the holes in the Champion 26" 3 row rad that I have. To bolt up the 26" rad you will need to make up 1/2" worth of spacers. I used 3 12"x1" strips of aluminium plus 1/16" thick rubber on either side of the aluminium.

[anlauto]

@Cuda jason
Just picked up the shroud that Alan referenced a few posts ago. It looks like it will match up with the holes in the Champion 26" 3 row rad that I have. To bolt up the 26" rad you will need to make up 1/2" worth of spacers. I used 3 12"x1" strips of aluminium plus 1/16" thick rubber on either side of the aluminium.

....and where's my commission ??

[dodj]

....and where's my commission ??

In my fridge...come on up. 

[Cudajason]

One other thing to check if you have not already done so is to get motor up to temp. While running IR temp check the upper and lower portions of radiator. To get the high and low of it.
Then take a temperature check of the lower outlet on water pump. Not the hose, the pump outlet. If flow is blocked you will see a similarly high temperature there. It would be much higher than radiator because flow would be stagnated. If near the outlet temp that is definitely a flow issue.

@YellowThumper I had the car running yesterday and there does not seem to be much a temp difference between the lower rad hose and the water pump outlet....

[Cudajason]

@Cuda jason
Just picked up the shroud that Alan referenced a few posts ago. It looks like it will match up with the holes in the Champion 26" 3 row rad that I have. To bolt up the 26" rad you will need to make up 1/2" worth of spacers. I used 3 12"x1" strips of aluminium plus 1/16" thick rubber on either side of the aluminium.

Thanks Man!  I will keep it in mind.

[YellowThumper]

One other thing to check if you have not already done so is to get motor up to temp. While running IR temp check the upper and lower portions of radiator. To get the high and low of it.
Then take a temperature check of the lower outlet on water pump. Not the hose, the pump outlet. If flow is blocked you will see a similarly high temperature there. It would be much higher than radiator because flow would be stagnated. If near the outlet temp that is definitely a flow issue.

@YellowThumper I had the car running yesterday and there does not seem to be much a temp difference between the lower rad hose and the water pump outlet....

Then you would have at least reasonable flow.
Wonder if you could IR each of the vertical tubes across the lower area. If specific tubes were plugged they would be cooler than ones that are flowing.

An unfortunate possibility could still be related to rust inside engine. There are several smaller hole passages from block to heads that could still be plugged. This would create hot spots internally.
Have you ever checked your timing and fuel enrichment?
Timing retarded and lean will raise combustion temps.

[Cudajason]

One other thing to check if you have not already done so is to get motor up to temp. While running IR temp check the upper and lower portions of radiator. To get the high and low of it.
Then take a temperature check of the lower outlet on water pump. Not the hose, the pump outlet. If flow is blocked you will see a similarly high temperature there. It would be much higher than radiator because flow would be stagnated. If near the outlet temp that is definitely a flow issue.

@YellowThumper I had the car running yesterday and there does not seem to be much a temp difference between the lower rad hose and the water pump outlet....

Then you would have at least reasonable flow.
Wonder if you could IR each of the vertical tubes across the lower area. If specific tubes were plugged they would be cooler than ones that are flowing.

An unfortunate possibility could still be related to rust inside engine. There are several smaller hole passages from block to heads that could still be plugged. This would create hot spots internally.
Have you ever checked your timing and fuel enrichment?
Timing retarded and lean will raise combustion temps.

I did do a hand check on the rad, it all seems to feel about the same temp, but yeah I could check it more accurately.

I FINALY got the Termo cure I ordered, so that is in the plans for this week.

I have tuned the engine to death...I have the timing dialed in and the AFR meter reads rich, so I don't think that's it...but will double check everything again.

[Cudajason]

Well the thermo cure seems to be doing something. It was clear when it went in!!!

[Cudajason]

Todays report...

Took the ole girl out for to put some miles on it. 

It was a cool day, so I figured it would run relatively cool.

I was wrong, after a short drive the temp got up to 220. I am still running the thermo cure and water, but with cool temps, i was surprised it got that hot.

At that temp, things just don't work right, performance falls off, the breaks suck because I think the fluid is boiling. I cut my drive short because I was unsure what was next.

Next steps, drop the thermo cure flush the hell out of the system and refill with water. The a few more miles to see see what it does.

[YellowThumper]

Todays report...

Took the ole girl out for to put some miles on it. 

It was a cool day, so I figured it would run relatively cool.

I was wrong, after a short drive the temp got up to 220. I am still running the thermo cure and water, but with cool temps, i was surprised it got that hot.

At that temp, things just don't work right, performance falls off, the breaks suck because I think the fluid is boiling. I cut my drive short because I was unsure what was next.

Next steps, drop the thermo cure flush the hell out of the system and refill with water. The a few more miles to see see what it does.

Sorry to hear this. I fully understand. As mentioned, have been there before for way too long...
Honestly, my thoughts have migrated to engine issues with plugged up paths.
Before spending significant $$$ on replacement radiator and associated fan(s) and shroud.
It would be much cheaper to pull intake and heads to see if the smaller passageways are plugged up.
Couple of gaskets and your labor would answer lingering questions on its internal condition. Would also be able to see into lower area of block to see if it has significant buildup.

My unfortunate 2C.

[Dmod1974]

One thing to note, brake fluid won't boil at 220F, it shouldn't boil at double that.  If it is, you'd be boiling the brake fluid and losing your brakes after a few applications.  And once it boils, it doesn't go away until you bleed it.  You might have something else going on causing the brakes to act up.

If you're really leaning toward block scaling as the cause, I'd just pop an easy to get to freeze plug on the side of the block and see how bad it is.  The block drains always look like crap with miles, so that's not a good way to gauge just how full of sediment it is.  If that's what's causing the overheating, you would have to have a ton of debris.  You'll know right away after popping the plug out if that's it or not.  Usually the really bad ones will have another layer of scaling behind the plug that you'll need to chisel through.

[Cudajason]

One thing to note, brake fluid won't boil at 220F, it shouldn't boil at double that.  If it is, you'd be boiling the brake fluid and losing your brakes after a few applications.  And once it boils, it doesn't go away until you bleed it.  You might have something else going on causing the brakes to act up.

If you're really leaning toward block scaling as the cause, I'd just pop an easy to get to freeze plug on the side of the block and see how bad it is.  The block drains always look like crap with miles, so that's not a good way to gauge just how full of sediment it is.  If that's what's causing the overheating, you would have to have a ton of debris.  You'll know right away after popping the plug out if that's it or not.  Usually the really bad ones will have another layer of scaling behind the plug that you'll need to chisel through.

Thanks @Dmod1974   I am still sorting out tue hydroboost deal, so I will look at that.

I was thinking block scaling a few years ago and pulled a freeze plug,  here is the link to that thread.

https://forum.e-bodies.org/engine-transmission-and-rear-end/4/running-hot/8172/

The coolant looks much better then it did.

I also had the whole thing professionally flushed at the time.

I flushed it all out today and sitting in the drive way idlei g away it still got up to 180, which is fine, but seems hot for just idleing

Todays report...

Took the ole girl out for to put some miles on it. 

It was a cool day, so I figured it would run relatively cool.

I was wrong, after a short drive the temp got up to 220. I am still running the thermo cure and water, but with cool temps, i was surprised it got that hot.

At that temp, things just don't work right, performance falls off, the breaks suck because I think the fluid is boiling. I cut my drive short because I was unsure what was next.

Next steps, drop the thermo cure flush the hell out of the system and refill with water. The a few more miles to see see what it does.

Sorry to hear this. I fully understand. As mentioned, have been there before for way too long...
Honestly, my thoughts have migrated to engine issues with plugged up paths.
Before spending significant $$$ on replacement radiator and associated fan(s) and shroud.
It would be much cheaper to pull intake and heads to see if the smaller passageways are plugged up.
Couple of gaskets and your labor would answer lingering questions on its internal condition. Would also be able to see into lower area of block to see if it has significant buildup.

My unfortunate 2C.

@YellowThumper that seems extreme, but I am starting to consider it.