Which torque converter

[WCC]

I need a bit of schooling on torque converters and which will be the correct one for a car I bought. It is a '70 Cuda with a stroked 440 (stroked 496). Transmission is automatic 727 and the book suggested a 2000-2300 for a stock 440.

Car drives awesome and motor very responsive but at idle, in gear, it feels like the motor wants to die although it doesn't actually. If you keep it in neutral at a traffic light it is perfect. My mechanic had a look and said the torque converter needs to be changed as the stall is incorrect. He also suggested an RSD distributor for more room to set up the timing curve.

This obviously adds to the cost so I am keen to hear your thoughts.

[Chryco Psycho]

DO you have the cam grind specs ?
This is the most important factor , if the cam powerband starts around 2000 rpm for example you need to be 4-500 rpm high with the stall so a 2400 rpm stall would be about right . You need to allow the engine to get into the powerband before the load is applied to the engine .
But before you do that try sticking a piece of mig welding wire into the 4 idle bleeds in the carb , I make a 90* corner horseshoe & drop them into each pair of bleeds front & back , this may alter the idle sensitivity enough to allow the carb to work better so you don't need to change the converter .

[Chryco Psycho]

I guess I need to make a video , cannot find one , problem is I don't have a single carb here in Panama
This addresses bleed function https://www.holley.com/blog/post/carb_class__air_bleed_basics/

[Chryco Psycho]

these are the idle bleeds some carbs have removable bleeds so they can be changed out , but inserting a wire is a great way to test if it runs better with the bleed restricted , it often does

[70RTSE383]

Do Edelbrock carbs have these as well?

[Oldschool]

Do Edelbrock carbs have these as well?

Nope....

[1 Wild R/T]

Do Edelbrock carbs have these as well?

Nope....

Well that's not entirely true.... They have them, but they are hard to access & not replaceable..

[Chryco Psycho]

Yes they have them but they are just brass tubes which are easy to restrict with a pair of vice grips !! 
This is why I refuse to use Eddy crabs

[WCC]

DO you have the cam grind specs ?
This is the most important factor , if the cam powerband starts around 2000 rpm for example you need to be 4-500 rpm high with the stall so a 2400 rpm stall would be about right . You need to allow the engine to get into the powerband before the load is applied to the engine .
But before you do that try sticking a piece of mig welding wire into the 4 idle bleeds in the carb , I make a 90* corner horseshoe & drop them into each pair of bleeds front & back , this may alter the idle sensitivity enough to allow the carb to work better so you don't need to change the converter .

Don't have the cam specs and will try your tip first. Thx

[Chryco Psycho]

I can call you if that helps , Let me know @WCC

[WCC]

I can call you if that helps , Let me know @WCC

Cool thanks will let you know if I get stuck.

[WCC]

DO you have the cam grind specs ?
This is the most important factor , if the cam powerband starts around 2000 rpm for example you need to be 4-500 rpm high with the stall so a 2400 rpm stall would be about right . You need to allow the engine to get into the powerband before the load is applied to the engine .
But before you do that try sticking a piece of mig welding wire into the 4 idle bleeds in the carb , I make a 90* corner horseshoe & drop them into each pair of bleeds front & back , this may alter the idle sensitivity enough to allow the carb to work better so you don't need to change the converter .

OK, I've got the grind# for the cam (Comp Cams Model #23-713-9) - CRB3 XR292HR-10

[RUNCHARGER]

It will wake up with a bit of convertor alright.

[Chryco Psycho]

248* duration @ .050  on a 110 CL , I bet it makes around 6" of vacuum at idle out of gear dropping to almost nothing in gear .
With that cam you would need a 3200 stall minimum which will make it no fun on the street at all !!
the carb will need a 1" or maybe 2.5" power valve , air bleeds need to be much smaller , I promise adding the wire will help

[bennydodge]

You can make a loose converter work on the street, it won't ever be as tight as a factory converter but you can get close. In my 416 stroker I'm running the Comp 286XR solid roller setup and with 248* duration @.050 it's pulling 5" of vacuum in gear. I'm also running 3.23 gears which makes the converter "act" looser, steeper gears will tighten it up. The converter I have(PTC 9 1/2") will flash up to around 3800-4000 rpms if the throttle is mashed but with a little driver intuition it works OK. It does not slip and slide pulling away from stoplights and generally has good behavior. The key in my opinion is getting a quality converter. If you're running a Carter or Carter-style carb use the softest step-up springs you can(blue color I think). It will be hard though to get a good idle with a tight converter.