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Manifolds vs TTI, TTI Kit vs Custom, What to do!

Started by kawahonda, June 21, 2018, 09:40:31 AM

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kawahonda

1970 Dodge Challenger A66

kawahonda

#46
Welp, the TTI Kit is installed by a local shop. The local shop did think that the TTI kit is one of the better kits out there and they were impressed by the fit. They chose to use a flange-less design and just weld it all together (of course the manifolds being flanged). Leads to a cleaner job. They also painted the bottom sections of the hangers with black because it looks better. Nice guys!

HOWEVER, we did have to leave a little "dent" the driver's exhaust pipe past the manifold next to the tranny in order to get the shift linkage to clear in all shift positions. I was a little surprised by this being that the TTI exhaust should be a "perfect" fit. Oh well?

Dynomax Super Turbos were used. Compared to stock exhaust (without resonators) the sound is actually similar as before. About 10-15% louder, but still on the "quiet" side. There's no doubt that the tone is deeper. A little more "chunkier" too. It's actually pretty perfect and was precisely what I wanted. I feel there is now some "music" from the exhaust where as before, there was no music. Still plenty quiet enough in the cabin for conversations and/or music. During acceleration, you can hear the car much better climb; the exhaust just breathed some new life into it.

So, pretty happy with the new setup. I was just a little surprised I had to take it back in and have the pipe dented a little to get that shift linkage to clear. They did not "test" it through the gears when I went to pick it up. I noticed as I was leaving that shifting into "D" was pretty hard...and it would slip into neutral. Got it home and looked underneath and found the problem.
1970 Dodge Challenger A66

Cudakiller70

I'm not hearing any music  :pokeeye: 
TTI wasn't perfect on our car either, was hitting clutch fork. TTI claimed we had wrong clutch fork, sent pictures showing otherwise. TTI sent a new section and it cleared. Still happy with TTI's stuff.


kawahonda

Yea, I plan to let them know. It's far too late to have anything welded/replaced at this point since it's a done deal. When I get headers in the distant future, I can have that section re-done. Maybe they can knock off a little price from the headers.

It's really not bad, just a little 1/8-1/4" dinged area in a 2.5" pipe on the inside. Won't make a difference performance wise. But I feel like they should know about it so that they can better their products for others.
1970 Dodge Challenger A66

HP_Cuda


Whatever you do - do not use any valve technology mufflers as it seems they cannot seem to get it right.

Once they fail, they fail in open position and it's pretty loud all the time. When this happens to me I'll end up switching them out.

:bricks:
1970 Cuda Yellow 440 4 speed (Sold)
1970 Cuda clone 440 4 speed FJ5
1975 Dodge Power Wagon W200

Burdar

Did you flip the shift linkage to the top side of the pivot like the instructions say?

The factory tolerances are pretty wide. TTI can't account for every variable. (Tolerance stackup)

Let's hear some sounds clips.

Sent from my SM-S327VL using Tapatalk


kawahonda

1970 Dodge Challenger A66


Burdar

It looks like the arm is still on the bottom side.  TTI recommends moving that arm to the top side of the pivot to clear their header collectors.  It looks like it might be a good idea to do that mod to clear the exhaust pipe as well.  Here is their instruction sheet.  You'll notice they also reference a mod to the pivot bracket as well.  This may or may not be required.

http://www.ttiexhaust.com/PDF/FN23-SHT3703-TorqueShaftLever.pdf

kawahonda

Thanks! What's all involved in moving the arm? Does it require removing and re calibrating the linkages?
1970 Dodge Challenger A66

Burdar

A cotter pin / clip is all that holds the linkage to the pivot arm.  Pull the clip and the swing the linkage to the top of the pivot...reinstall the clip. It would be a good idea to double check the linkage and adjust if needed.

It looks like you don't have a lot of room above the pivot.  The linkage might hit the floor if you put it on the top side.  I think this is where the extra mod of shortening the pivot bracket comes into play.

Since you already dented the pipe for clearance, you could probably just leave it alone.

kawahonda

Yea. or worry about it when I get headers....

Headers will likely remove the dent since that's where the collectors are located.
1970 Dodge Challenger A66


HP_Cuda


Oh the things you have to do to use TTI headers.

I would have gone that route but it wasn't meant to be because of these types of restrictions.
1970 Cuda Yellow 440 4 speed (Sold)
1970 Cuda clone 440 4 speed FJ5
1975 Dodge Power Wagon W200