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type of screw in exhaust hanger plate?

Started by Dakota, July 31, 2019, 02:40:42 AM

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Dakota

It looks like there is supposed to be some kind of sheet metal screw in the corner of the top plate on the exhaust hanger that drops into the truck floor pan.   There was a fair bit of rust in this area when I took the car apart so there was nothing left to photograph, but I'm curious as to what the original screw looks like and whether folks are installing them during their rebuilds.   I'm not doing an OE car, so this is more a matter of if this little screw is really needed such that it's worth putting another hole in the floor pan.

anlauto

#1
Screw usually goes in the center hole, not that corner hole. EDIT: (although it's more then possible some came from the factory with the screw in the corner hole) I seen just a plain Phillips screw, or one with a spin washer like the other parts in the trunk. :alan2cents:
I've taught you everything you know....but I haven't taught you everything I know....
Check out my web site ....  Alan Gallant Automotive Restoration

Burdar

I'd have to look at the fastener guide to be 100% sure but IIRC, it's just a standard Phillips head screw like Alan said.  It was installed at the factory to hold the bracket in place while the exhaust was being installed.  (if it got pushed out into the trunk, it would slow the line down) Not needed if you aren't doing an OE car.


Dakota

Quote from: anlauto on July 31, 2019, 05:14:18 AM
Screw actually goes in the center hole, not that corner hole. I seen just a plain Phillips screw, or one with a spin washer like the other parts in the trunk. :alan2cents:

Alan - I'm reusing a picture that was just posted on another thread about exhaust hangars.   This picture shows what was in my car when I bought it.   I can't be 100% positive, but I believe this was the way the car was originally with the sheet metal screw being in the corner.   Also, the repair panel I bought from Roseville has a dimple on it in the same corner.   Just my  :alan2cents:


headejm

My 1970 R/T has two plates (for dual exhaust). Both plates have a #10 Phillips head screw in the center location. The screws were probably to hold the plates in place during the manufacturing process. If that's the case, the center hole makes more sense than the outside holes. Also a discussion on here about any sealant under the plate. Seen them with and without. When I recently installed mine, I laid a bead of black seam sealer under the plate. Just enough for a small amount to squeeze out when the hanger nuts were tightened. Sorry, don't have any photos handy.

anlauto

Quote from: Dakota on July 31, 2019, 11:03:04 AM
Quote from: anlauto on July 31, 2019, 05:14:18 AM
Screw actually goes in the center hole, not that corner hole. I seen just a plain Phillips screw, or one with a spin washer like the other parts in the trunk. :alan2cents:

Alan - I'm reusing a picture that was just posted on another thread about exhaust hangars.   This picture shows what was in my car when I bought it.   I can't be 100% positive, but I believe this was the way the car was originally with the sheet metal screw being in the corner.   Also, the repair panel I bought from Roseville has a dimple on it in the same corner.   Just my  :alan2cents:

Excellent sample picture...I guess I'm wrong again in my assumption, I've never seen that before  :worship:
I've taught you everything you know....but I haven't taught you everything I know....
Check out my web site ....  Alan Gallant Automotive Restoration

fc7cuda

The screw hole in the upper corner was 1970 and later changed to a center hole.  Most 1970 cars I've seen never had the screw actually installed.   :alan2cents:


VCODE

Untouched 70 Challenger R/T SE screw installed in upper left hole. SPD Nov 70
Oh and no sealer at all.
Bob

HEMICUDA

#8
Quote from: VCODE on August 01, 2019, 03:33:11 PM
Untouched 70 Challenger R/T SE screw installed in upper left hole. SPD Nov 70
Oh and no sealer at all.
Bob

I've never seen one in the middle, of course, I could be wrong.

7E-Bodies

Going to dig out my exhaust plates (car in disassembly currently) to see how mine was set up. 70 RT, Nov4 69 SPD.
1970 Challenger R/T Numbers Matching 440 Auto in F8 Quad Green

RUNCHARGER

Sheldon


anlauto

Maybe the center screw was a 1971 thing ? I know I've seen it before and found it again today in an untouched 1971 Challenger
I've taught you everything you know....but I haven't taught you everything I know....
Check out my web site ....  Alan Gallant Automotive Restoration

7E-Bodies

These are some new, aftermarket repops just tossing on here for the heck of it. Before I epoxy my new AMD trunk pan, I thought I'd better dig them out and get the holes drilled and deburred. As usual, I looked for input and found this thread. I'll be drilling also for the sheet metal screws in the upper corner as was posted on a survivor. Anyone know of how critical the placement of the 4 1/4" bolt holes through the trunk pan are?
1970 Challenger R/T Numbers Matching 440 Auto in F8 Quad Green

anlauto

Personally...I do not drill those holes until I install the exhaust....There's just too many variables during assembly....That's just my opinion though... I've got messed up before.
I've taught you everything you know....but I haven't taught you everything I know....
Check out my web site ....  Alan Gallant Automotive Restoration

gzig5

I agree with Allen, but I've never done this specific job.  I have done similar fab ups and everything is left loose until its all mocked up and ready for full welding and install. I would get the exhaust system pretty well where it wants to be with the tips centered. Mount the brackets on the pipes and mark the slots in the brackets on the bottom of the pan. Drill them in the center of the slot. Looks like you get about 3/8-1/2" of slot to play with side to side.  I've got to do this next year and that's how it is laid out in my head.