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Want to Learn to Weld

Started by erik70rt, September 03, 2020, 10:29:47 AM

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erik70rt

Along with my post of learning to paint, I also want to learn to weld. 

So what is a decent machine to learn with?  Strictly MIG?  Combo machine?  Gas shielded?

Mainly for doing basic bodywork, frame work, home projects, etc.

Thanks!
Contrary to the opinions of some, I am not dumber than I look.

JS29

Definitely gas feed, Combo welders are not good. Mig is what everybody uses. I would like to try a tig.   :alan2cents:

Cuda Cody

MIG is easier to learn than TIG so best to start with MIG.  If you're doing bodywork, get a 110 unit because the bigger 220 units will produce to much heat and blow through sheet metal.  Stick with Miller or Lincoln.  I have both Millers and Lincoln's (and other cheap models) in both MIG and TIG and I like the 110 Lincoln the best (I think it's a 180C).  It's a workhorse.  Get the one that has them temp dial that does not have the "click" notches to adjust.  I find being able to make small adjusts works best for me and the one that "clicks" from 1,2,3,4 or A,B,C,D doesn't give you the temp settings you might need.  Sometimes I might need a temp setting of 2.5, but the click dial only gives you 2 or 3.



DeathProofCuda

Not sure what Cody has, but the current Lincoln 180 migs are 220 volt machines.  If you want the 110 volt unit, you'd be looking for a 140. 

Both Miller and Lincoln also make dual voltage migs that can run on both 110 or 220.  If you have access to 220 power now, or plan to get it in the future, this gives you some flexibility to run at lower power for thin sheet metal, but then change over to 220 volts if you need to weld something thicker like 3/8".

Rich G.

Definitely buy a brand name and not a cheapo one. This way when need to replace the consumable parts you can find them. And no combo units, they rarely work good.

Cuda Cody

Yes @DeathProofCuda  you are right.  I use the Lincoln 140C to do sheet metal work.

jimynick

Firstly, determine how much welding you're going to do, then decide how much money you're willing to spend and then start looking at the machines that fit your criteria and wallet. I started with a small Lincoln that my dad left me and was lucky to find that it was convertible to gas from flux core and I bought the gauges and tank accordingly. I only mention that to show you that there are some cost effective options out there and if you're working on one car, you may not want to spend thousands of dollars on that one machine. Lincoln and Miller have been mentioned, but I've got a Hobart and it's a good machine. There's also the possibility of scoring a used one, so keep your eyes open and make sure any machine you consider, can operate the way it's supposed to before you lay down your dinero. Good luck  :cheers:
In the immortal words of Jimmy Scott- "pace yourself!"


RUNCHARGER

I had a 105 amp Century for over 20 years that was great. I replaced it with a 180Amp Lincoln but The old Century was a better machine I think (Ironically I think Lincoln makes the Century, just older was better in this case). I use a friends Hobart regularly and it is better yet.
I agree with what Cody says, get one with infinite adjustability not notches. Get a 110 volt MIG and practice.
Sheldon

73440

When I first got my  Hobart welder to weld on my kick starter , I next was looking for things to break so that I could weld something

70 Challenger Lover

I learned not too long ago on my MillerMatic. It's a small 110 unit with a nice feature where the wire speed is automatic with the power setting. It really helped me until I got better. I agree completely that a smaller unit is best for heat control on sheet metal. I even went from .030 wire to .024 and that gave me more heat control on thin metal as well. Do not use flux core wire. That's more for farm work in windy environments. Go with a gas bottle. The gas simply blows away the oxygen around your work for a cleaner weld.

You don't need lessons. It's not hard to learn on your own but do watch some YouTube videos.

erik70rt

#10
Millers are out of my budget.  I looked up the Lincoln 140C and it looks good. 

What do you all think of the Eastwood 135?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SGYRBZT/?coliid=I2WLM8LB165LEK&colid=2K6PEWXHJVUVN&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

The Eastwood has the infinite controls like Cody mentioned where the Lincoln 140 does not and the Eastwood is about 1/2 the cost.
Contrary to the opinions of some, I am not dumber than I look.


DeathProofCuda

#11
Maybe I am missing something, but looks to me like the current Lincoln 140 migs do not have infinitely adjustable voltage settings.  That may be the price difference between the Lincolns and the equivalent Miller machines.   Back when I was shopping around for a welder I thought they were generally apples to apples price-wise. 

Hobarts are Miller machines without some of the bells and whistles, like the infinitely adjustable settings.  So maybe the Hobart Handler 140 is more equivalent to the Lincoln 140 now.  I don't think I've ever heard a bad thing about the Hobart Handler 140.  If I was in the market for a less expensive mig just for body work, I'd probably buy one of those.  :alan2cents:

BIGSHCLUNK

I bought this virtually new off a guy a Craigslist years ago. Has "no click" settings and can be used with or without gas. Not bad for $100  :takemymoney:

chargerdon

Many years ago my cousin loaned me a small Lincoln 110v 90amp welder that i used to repair the rust on my 66 Charger.  It was both flux / and gas capable.   I didn't have the gas for it so used flux wire.     Then when he wanted it back a year later i bought a cheapo 90 amp from Harbour Freight.    Flux only.   I used it for at least 6 years with the only problem was it was difficult the thread thru a new role of wire...had to take the tip apart every time.  Also, it sometimes was difficult to run the wire, had to often unwind a lot of slack ahead of time...     

Then a year ago when welding up the crossmember for my A518 transmission.   It suddenly quit and i thought that id had overheated and tripped the overheat switch.   Well Kinda...  when i looked at it smoke was pouring out !!   Toast, no overload protection just a light and i hadn't noticed.   Bye !!

Replaced it with another inexpensive Flux wire only 125 amp from Northern Tools.   See: https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200632003_200632003    Currently on sell for only $139.   I like it a lot better than the Harbour Freight unit it replaced.   Also, it advertised Overheat Automatic shutoff protection.   It threaded the wire thru the entire way without any problem.  ALso, it has never had a problem threading the wire.   It is advertised to weld steel as thick as 3/16 inch same as the way more expensive Hobart unit.   It had no problem welding together the 12 gauge steel i used for transmission crossmember.    I do not think it would be robust enough to weld a frame however...   

Look, i know its an el cheapo flux wire only welder, but, so far it does the job.   If your buying this for sheet metal welding, this type of welder when doing sheet metal can EASILY burn thru the metal and that's a drawback but then even expensive MIG welders can burn thru at low settings on 20 gauge sheet metal.   It takes a very expensive unit to give "pulse" control to prevent burn thru.    but you have to go way up in price to get those capabilities.   You simply have to learn thru trial and error, to do SHORT bursts when welding.   Yes, flux wire doesnt do as clean a job as a gas unit, but, your going to grind it clean anyways !!

If your looking for an inexpensive unit to do occassional mig welding (way easier than rod welding) then something like this works just fine.