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Small patch sections or drip rail pieces?

Started by FSHTAIL, June 25, 2017, 06:17:24 PM

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FSHTAIL

Way back when the seam seal cracked under the vinyl top and it just did it's thing.   

Is there any small patch panels like this?
I looked from the inside with a boroscope.  It's just the skin. 

Also drip rail sections?

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1973 BS23H Cuda' 340/TKX 5 speed (70 AAR clone-ish)

Cuda Cody

Looks like there's more filler in there? 

What's the long term plan with the car?  Are you going to do a full restoration?  If so, might be best o to wait until the car is completely striped and blasted before tackling to much of the metal work.  If you do not plan to do a full restoration, then it just becomes what can you do now to temporarily hold you over.  You're going to have to patch in a piece and that area can be tricky to do.

FSHTAIL

It's all metal in the area. 
This is a driver cruiser fun car.   
I just want to address what needs to be done to make it solid. 

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1973 BS23H Cuda' 340/TKX 5 speed (70 AAR clone-ish)


Cuda Cody

It can be done, but that will be a tricky weld to patch that in.  But you have the advantage of a vinyl top to install so it might work okay.  It's going to get hot to weld in a patch in that area and hard not ruin the paint so not sure I would even attempt it.


FSHTAIL

Not worried about the paint.   

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1973 BS23H Cuda' 340/TKX 5 speed (70 AAR clone-ish)

Cuda Cody

Getting the body line in there and still being able to access it to grind down the welds is going to be hard.  If it was my car, I always want to see everything before I start doing any patch work.  That's a large rust hole for there not to be any other rust.  How's the other side look?

FSHTAIL

Haven't peeled the other side off yet. 

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1973 BS23H Cuda' 340/TKX 5 speed (70 AAR clone-ish)


1 Wild R/T

AMD makes drip rails but for a small repair I'd probably make my own, do you have access to a sheet metal break?

Shane Kelley

That's a hard repair to do. Most likely the inner part where the drip rail channel screws has issues as well. Like Cody said. going to be tough to get a grinder in that tight area. Might have to use a hand file to clean some of the welds. Hint: That sucks big time!

Where do you stop? That's going to be the big dilemma. You always chase problems like that.

truckinman466

I had to repair this section on both sides. I found a donor car and cut out what I needed. Then got drip rails from and. But I'm putting a new skin on the roof.

FSHTAIL

Quote from: truckinman466 on June 26, 2017, 06:17:59 PM
I had to repair this section on both sides. I found a donor car and cut out what I needed. Then got drip rails from and. But I'm putting a new skin on the roof.
Are the drip rails the stainless outer ones you're talking about?   

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1973 BS23H Cuda' 340/TKX 5 speed (70 AAR clone-ish)


Shane Kelley

Quote from: Chris Pauluk on June 27, 2017, 05:39:44 PM
Quote from: truckinman466 on June 26, 2017, 06:17:59 PM
I had to repair this section on both sides. I found a donor car and cut out what I needed. Then got drip rails from and. But I'm putting a new skin on the roof.
Are the drip rails the stainless outer ones you're talking about?   

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I'm pretty sure he is referring to the area that the drip rail moldings attach to.

truckinman466

There are metal drip rails between your roof skin and the inner frame . AMD sells them.

FSHTAIL

So would these just be a drill out the spot welds, slide the old drip rails out and slide new ones in, tack rack?

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1973 BS23H Cuda' 340/TKX 5 speed (70 AAR clone-ish)

truckinman466

They are spot welded to the frame but, the roof skin is spot welded to them in the gutter area. You. Wouldn't be able to get to the inner welds without cutting the skin and maybe peeli it back. You would then have to weld the skin back together. Pretty tough to do , I'd think