I've been on here for quite a while, so figured I'd finally post something! I'm currently exactly one year into my restoration. I've had this car since I was 16 (I'm 35 now), and have literally done everything else myself (EVERYTHING except the block machine work) to it except for body work since I've never done it before. Well, after realizing how much it would cost to pay someone to do this work and being so hands on, I've had a change of heart!
It's a restomod and most of the mechanical changes are done with the possible upgrade to a Hellcrate and Tremec Magnum powertrain later on.
Some basic specs on it before going under the knife:
- 408 stroker w/ Eddy aluminum heads, Super Victor EFI manifold, headers, etc..
- EFI using Megasquirt 3X module that I assembled and tuned with custom harness, LS truck coils, 4150 TB, Venom injectors
- Aeromotive Phantom Stealth 340 EFI pump in modified replacement tank
- Vintage A/C controlled by MS3X
- 4L60E controlled my MS2 module communicating via CAN bus to MS3X
- 200A alternator
- Champion 3 tube radiator with Lincoln MK4 fan and overflow
- RMS Alterktion front suspension
- RMS Street Lynx rear suspension
- 14" Wilwood brakes all the way around
- Hydroboost assist
- 18" Torq Thrust M wheels (275 front and 315 rear)
- power windows, locks, keyless entry, Autometer gauges, stereo w/ 4 channel amp
Note: this was neither a rare nor a numbers matching car when I bought it way back in the day, so hopefully too many people don't lose their minds with all of the changes. I also drive the crap out of this car when weather allows, so it had to start, run, handle, and stop well to keep up with modern cars with the inevitable Chicago traffic insanity that is the norm around here. Defensive driving is not an option around here, and neither is trying to maintain 1/4 miles gaps between cars.
Anyway, here are some pics of the build before tear down. I'll upload highlights as current as I can. This is my first go at body work, so go easy on me, LOL!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/2j7hzna33WAy29yYOqPBsCPM7hNHu-0prbJ9tHvLt8Zd3Cx4MJJkJL3OboI-iRaAoBN1JGScb7Lp8RR-XGHDcrchGrNQPyXZAgUC05ku6r4QEkWgkrjTCnYeD1qawyX2eWbnQqy2SA=w2400)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/RzptZDwJ6-Q9OcfpEtY3tkATEa7LsPPwkT3q0_Uz9vnXUFoYdytXNxWRTjIz9kX8ZTGBM1VY95aPqEz_F8iX5biagtSA6VumP3FhbDjf9wbzUD29ctfuvFAxDSe-Yx_RM8npZngEjA=w2400)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/vrwLG2SyYZUsewQn-KHFnKm2lJiS9EMIRf5C_aApRn2H1VHn1m2Fr3Wnxer86ndY1vhr87oFLMbbdq-xi8ynxBozU8HcKhfiDgrPIZ-oIgN7CQDsLEAmrU6Nw_BayYPKldE8mny3RA=w2400)
Last November, I decided to have a go at replacing the floor pan, which I knew was totally shot when I was young and dumb and modded everything else but decided to put new carpet over the rust hole. Out of sight, out of mind! Well, at least until I got an impromptu enema driving through a large puddle in an unexpected downpour! That refreshed my memory....
That's my dog in as much awe as myself. Someone "repaired" it back in the day with bondo, window screen, pop rivets, and caulk.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/oc4DuDnJP62Tlq3FoVZmJOsTuRsM9Uig2ZIrzfF-DlYNJTEXEnIMFMXeSjA32nDCe0acFvg86hQNR_G3k-tSPbZVhFDsWeD9c4_yaVOqBlUKuYbiw75oJR1pLM9e3osulaEYuj-V7g=w2400)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/fxVngHqL0ED4iOycyvzVzRotkB6qSygaA9RP3s3A7WZpS-xepl6kKi7Vzr2V3HQua62nBSfvAZuGKM8Dsg4JeU1ECr3kZccwZreA1MUr-XWycBADGFrDhy8bkr-RIA91bM4YXmYwzg=w2400)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/MeUhBJ3hLsJKizMuxDchwPDzmjW8N1exwR6pzCCrHmSvpR_PY5iPlz0lq-x1EEmChAo--mF0ThbJVT6juhUmHkL5NWvKK1EBCsjkkpDdq2feJVxyYWaT8cmpkWHJobYqQclhzCU2Pw=w2400)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/WCzYKAK4gRkQMBEPAYB5kKPwryLfPD05ixanULuJhRqk_zM1fJzqPJW6NZxgoIR4HEnA0Ewg2Bha9RQNZOOpItY9puFbpEr-c2mh9DGTc2iHtnmncQsCzWg2_YGnCYLR7REaFFuhXw=w2400)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/vZOKlHQnXCpw9HCBuHnXSximYA-1wDQIbemomRgRs6PtDo3gaQOUFl_QJWDqlk6R9Iit5WxpxahtmljgYWu0LGKtyKZdA2zN6_V3wMphjCJw7bwrRKs8t3QkVZ6m2civq_32zCJsYQ=w2400)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/iKZpJFVnSs2Ss7_2psy0Y-GOQY1BH-CmSpC9a2iauqxM2mgqey3VXP6yu4WP28DR4ozjiGo-kTZeJMPAYidvBr1gfvHzAO55HZiKG_Rt7jcqWDvpctuhgjX9cwb0lkfkPWmNivdO8w=w2400)
Maybe a small patch would have sufficed?! HA!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/EZRoIBe_Ez1Xa-GGbOIXLl1FHrev7Pa8S-idN1q-LBuxTAWqKuOB-RP1voAojcDZliu2E_CvzHfZIlqChEfgIK2YhODa8oJ7B51Pen3JkadgZBXGS17OH9cKXaLGQPiuqrg2Xxuhpw=w2400)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/0Ete3AlBnGgY2KUh_D3pm2nF03Skl6k4FObbl6l9QO7iCBKttXE0UgkKjquelX20GUCqx6ZqiXWe72vmUas7bqVLkdrFQfCBBeoeAz5umDaT2ygO_Os9_lwgHGA8uMQ_PLGBTNhWbw=w2400)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/8P0J4Cb83891rT5xpVYvomctcL_6uRcEg6shof1VKPZl5QuNYICYF3jqEhPbYtW3UAVE0n8OQHcVHJ9gaW0izMI2OjFIin-gCjTHBhIpC6TkOMVtcI1GBaJYD_cVW5DsxoVK9cm63w=w2400)
Overall, the floors were not too bad a good test run. I learned then that nothing fits quite right on these cars. Get me the bigger hammer and grinder!!
After getting cocky and thinking this was not all that bad, I decided to yank the fenders and powertrain to evaluate the rust in more depth. Better grab a bucket... :barf:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/0LeAXaO1PTSr1Mjb0LTHBd6PVkB-DxYRdyiosoFj4iAIGiwJ_MlC2UabYZv7MJuV8KW2x8Er2YmDiX5p5edUtZOtWwpSb5pnSmvpr_KaHrK94gNiR5JCGLrna9J0vihK0SU-CaZvmA=w2400)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/aDAlHGZ3wAiTP8Une98sGBKXgjubNKWQVHut0iHLfNlPxW4IVpJwKkMO7r1ac6jlXn5ytXqlJ-xHvc7UC_3JQBEMCQxjqrrH379RODHp2ePPaaZmwkCg_wTf8Gwi6rO4GWPDjbHKEA=w2400)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/rJdGohufEq97kQ7BmJQazDf1g39vjftGs3AT2Y82fzqB-b6fgFTayRrUoBV4JHTnShw-00hDaWGv4czMvPd7SFWzsYXrQYvbUS8riaAK-nMnJrzbuaXwlbygVh4jGRF_oc1bY64Ohg=w2400)
Usual rot in the hood hinge area along with every inner fender bracket to the firewall, and the cowl/firewall itself is swiss cheese
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/W3vEVnYjZvtdGRvzzEv02H_5Xec9Rfbh3Wp4oDnsRrtG1xe0bhQ3Kvc2lDF6h51MGhf4SiH7-JoMWIy3_XqI1tS9TLPR_wzoR6fS0TT0Gw-hFOPrz3_jFkXQ1Gv08Z2JgUMZM4ABaw=w2400)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/NYa4ehCY14bXY5-3zb4A-PUY10LmHg3XMsYVRsb-KHP0wC0crlY0jViDgcmEyCnB2cQSty_PN4-dlQJWK3GR534fUI4JdZPepozEZTkhSzto0al4HJjt9fYj1LKCA7Q3euIxIKEfrg=w2400)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/6v1-1VIonYFrgku1dv9EBEj4juLNeD_c7UEDPCmY5kzCtEEYDDLONyNzhrwShv6xEr1xyZ9Xj1XEZU74g2I-_7Dq1ug2borM55W__UqJ45u3jvqg-TlxCQPDD1qumqRfQq6VEiY55Q=w2400)
Rocker is shot on the RH side for sure...
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/P2j-bLK9z-M3bxcKGihMKAY9IlsE-AC6LNbXC9LPwbkIDSLa0MYhLNrPsOw-g3b7WnazPu-Nxeg9OOXwv-m8IBg7e1eYDTBsSPPP5D-nTwFUaMDT0FJMEWJvvwArXt8u5JOdsyZy_w=w2400)
Lots of rot on the firewall and splash panels
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/AzMQgT5by-eeLq8gpTeOj5GAho2l5HHVed3exuCcpUqLDOhjDmUdCJqYnyCQAOhCtbeKzseQIL2ot5GlvrRl20MmvZyNd3k4pjH7NMJBs4FKpG0odsT-ij3JTQ4AsPfVxwHzYCgQAw=w2400)
Time to yank out the rest of the interior and strip the firewall down I guess.
Cowl and firewall replacement is totally beginner work, right?! I have problems...
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/G1mGOTtY4Ird__STlvvaDAV86_1xpdZkID4ug0wUGuD642Dvj6Fbt1zi1YW8ZKXhNqmd-lS1Z7TTv1E_C6FMW1gutdwZ3XT6NEJU1ldkwc17lWx1Ttwrjtl8ddMuKb9RHUYFs0vPpQ=w2400)
Ole girl is getting some braces
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Rgm8MunfyaRMG1tWOiRD-35VchMRR87BuKeM2O_QlxOGnv_eO822cLTIZhoRweECc7k3RF8LYhdLgmronGOCclvMXYb0lKxwqF0esMgGmqnR12Fcm0V9_hOmZfsI9VRemssiVXb07g=w2400)
Cowl is off, and what a PITA. At a glance, it doesn't look too bad...
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/nJiocBFsoeyvSvKBZ4G9S5kLQO0bZaUN44C9YUAhHlfnaWgo1LACnJv9WhYlc6vUGg2cHPCz3FbrYZfhHxc40LfuMFJgjuGOWsW97UAyFdECjkYDXZEJ_8U4XnAjoMWy-fM5K2Uy0g=w2400)
Now I know why the firewall rotted so bad on that side. Not the only nest I'd find in this car either!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/29CqFw2J649Klj1iBcymi5whnIlKxxi1X6aIbiR8TKIxo7XD2_0TwruGytuTrRiOKsulb8ffeUrsUhiTDTe5GKAOzsOdGxSnibDYSaGKBmYopYyI-1bW0YpFufVYLGK_CxxEDvokhA=w2400)
The AMD cowl was ok. Out of the box it fit poorly, but once you worked and clamped it into place it kind of stretched into the correct position. There are differences though; I assume they patterned it off of an earlier model year. The firewall fitment and correctness for my car was similar.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/qA6FOdj0fG8PTg05K0c6bm1vXcjCa1a130uact6VMyTmuDFop7K3L_WaW1IGgCIMOyd31uYuX_32FeHr8sObCbWcMljMgpbrc6IcQiaggpkt9h9GLX_LMtC1cvoY8Ul3BDQdy2W0eA=w2400)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/xvIIh_fioV7nsEsRMx6rVp8zrrC6EciNa6lg2aCGJjtPnTnTmSv1Ci3dl0FtSmAJyDJXLzj-pCnfGrLI0obAwrtTrNOS8xdEsMXvrN05I2-MSONbT_4auPEmhZhLfGBPQX5JsdP0aA=w2400)
Getting scary now!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/wOMTMqa8HDvtxpyUf7gsyRgkeHlMYx4afnjBmv2--E326u-WB4QodxaqAJhfWWZuS_VgA2fd-x2WvmMRCuoS8dtxALlqloCybxQ1fIX4Gabyo9zir0luS3Oy6Bhi01OmUgiU6yrYGg=w2400)
Initial mockup; I have to replace both cowl side panels since the seams are completely rotted out and I'm no fabricator. Those panels actually fit like garbage. They had nuts welded onto the wrong side of the panel and bends that shouldn't exist.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/G16Am2sqf020iFrn4ye15lpezQKshyDMsn-Jdm6aIYcs_tiJgEyflfAqiThc7LhRBwiBNKpV17RV9dXYhBE5An5M3slA6nrh6GLyDAzTbk7i960j07x17M_ahKQI4OmiF-aMfnatbw=w2400)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/t9XYUJMBK2yjH9U9LyokFgnqFKMnCBDz8DqArNIGShCmN1LVrAXOOBYECgoBZ_7Ec2jLUCVdB3lxdFwgUK43A6-I4SMQQHsTphrczsdQRY87m6u-NaYcBjDQOWOXsJ0HIvjxJtuoyw=w2400)
Going back together.... I panel bonded and spot welded the cowl to firewall seams and lower firewall seam. It seemed like the perfect place to use that product to ensure water stays out and away from the overlapped panels. I used a weld through seam sealer on the cowl like the factory did, but it did not take kindly to MIG plug welding! Wear a respirator! I epoxy primed the cowl and firewall insides and will use Eastwood's Internal Frame Coating to ensure that area stays rust free.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/2FHRPBcXmI7zzFARhnBs-MsTL5aDAIZvNUFj-BO37JIAd4MEDlH8aG0RPT4G_Sc_pxSzuy9jcNZD4H6ZQ8GrmjCZyjie9B1mN8yqgIM49Z208r36iGHU5eD6uAYcO3Yko26ZoMungQ=w2400)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/o0BCtLs__bsp1aoRTmaOqc9PLih6gEnr4EDu7DDWsF9lq-3RarndujvbHH7tD6on3wnSmQIxSEJ7px_ESz_6z2JaK9TfXNMlsboIZzuWIsrlQtlefHuOL1adNtxMxQNLq1MT4CYt-Q=w2400)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/sONrl1d6f03SYBroMN4WW6w0qNWBdMeuf-mbft9Vur2I8lZ9vuAUO1B6NM_hA1447WBq_K9hwqNjzeXpQiARAr0VThmesuEDNpxGAT13CqMPSWXOL8XZDQbQGWtOaAeiMKaOO94Vyg=w2400)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/5dYrAyfDUWGJ9W0Nf9R0iyfxCXKhxKNitl7UFFfj3OryfDX2hAdRvUlN9PPxIfDdR6v-9z25ztSdaF664lx8TFbXPOOhBWUkfJk-Kncg8PCcNVYyyPAPmEuWGTFjDKjGO9k9kR6JoA=w2400)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/VLS41dEpX2LpJ5oUXJXL84irXGMZ30t6BYS8ELmvrecipwxxy21hAmoFEqaIPzR6hUxNppyAClag4TZ5Bbl3yS01Cs190x28LeDYvCvn3LZQNuP_XXuZ6IidaQzHDVc4iE6dA76wbQ=w2400)
Moving on to the inner fenders and core support next!
Now would be a good time to install US cartool stiffener system were the braces go from the cowl to the aprons. :alan2cents: good job so far. :wrenching:
I know someone will ask, so are you transferring the VIN over to the new cowl panel?
Yup! I haven't uploaded the pics yet, but I installed those along with the core stiffener as well. I have torque boxes and subframe connectors too. I also installed their mini tub/frame notch kit.
I did not transfer the VIN stamping because there is almost nothing left of them. I think they were stamped lightly and poorly to begin with on my car, and corrosion didn't help. Half of the letters are legible. I cut it out and saved it just in case though. These clowns stamped my upper radiator support badly too, which I didn't replace since it was in good shape. It's stamped right through one of the holes in the top of the rail! Not to mention the half dozen or so spot welds they did on one side of my car for the hinge panel to floor joint, and neglected to do on the other side.
Inner fenders were rotten near the firewall on both sides so I replaced them. I also used this opportunity to install the 26" core support side panel too since the RH side was in really bad shape.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/YisVk84IJ2xh7nACS8kMqgJ0OyzfLzPJ0njaV46ZF6SBHnPV1Mo7B3KvRqnSzECgZLpDyOj4olfIKYESJcNDrF92lZRt-ZMxK_eSBuEilg9m1mUOyHftQwkt4xMjfaR7jO3vCyYIwQ=w2400)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/BNlX1oE6-zn6uiXtL_atCYOTgrjP0YPvswGxdxhLwUKx4eGi6X-MW372By8UQO-VouNQX3loGvHorVRvlMURkNuSaoLNzfUvGWnXCZDPpiozRpZ2vknkOjdSC6xkbxFeGnHZ9AGlsQ=w2400)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/vYuzdlXUIMkvsC1lMofG6UlRhv_IaEzZZVqD5JEB3jPLAJChREdR-KbRH2Lknb6nQgfedZP4mr6Cu4kfkQcoono6DYz3y9Qz2gJfHaKEk3AZpUpGWjTojHOHQR9eAW6gvnDDBG6G3w=w2400)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/vV1mhjE9Zjly6crdY0ggKbV04M6qGfNATmw2IFpi6C8VWx99tA58plOfAavjOyGxiibwLmMYyhoEXHL41d54UZWsL74ziqd0oOHK5ynOrxIYnAGK2Ja6Sl_7A_geGD8BckGZoVomCQ=w2400)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/UgZ_j9u_qz8lo1BzYQhftWHK1icSkzJ9H6x6ukv-z1adM2ZqiO25h78TkfrOWIpGXLxuAJu3XgHxVSV0FgydxdwssRBzZbWic72Ki8wObh8K2Pga_nyxV9jF3PpHfYq_GJFERoXesQ=w2400)
The heavy gauge bracket that welds to the shock tower was barely spot welded on the drivers side! It practically fell off with little effort.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/M_dqetyCS0AspccaXpKodrxocswmai3IgwnuRbxfjE5pTHOjnKdhCCkYoArkKWOUYfhQPqtghZPY-c5NLC9xW35wxhe5VdcuTD7HInNbEZ4wJiZmVWnXpxTmDSu3K0-HmB5lhFADXw=w2400)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/LpzwXT3iq3hZ0eU7r1YUVFe3ahVI7ehlR2y-Ix4hfmPCBtkNAErcOdhJk30pRANpEkoF8WPV79j7CneLEaHxbjQOa1hW0nsch9NSDQaxjpOM0ebjosZwt0bjOyVnXbad4l6O6eqyYQ=w2400)
Replaced the badly banged up lower core support and installed the USCT stiffener piece...
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_enqfjk8w3FDN0NMCS3VFx3hykh1W8iZIzLF6ScfSVWJCfch4NFLXW9SGGr4TDjjLUJWc_89a_brAj9plOCf0G4d51JaePYFpWd8xix7KIqWUTmxRX52Cx13EcTMRi2SouiUIyd08Q=w2400)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/aL4lSSPHLrtcaiquVqixRE2QzoIvGskPzBxwDRi8Utd8NX9FpkNOBLZrxbgJsMDY7zgbnW-p7ihvcyAjVq9A7sZz0qcHTsVT1qoP12LOts9mvDfA_Sujgd0JXjkmlEsCLuC2Ca4WLw=w2400)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/zi7U-62GorizS0AeB1eMiu3Zcr365EGovvXbYAyefC-M6YspPKJNGIS86exP4CWCN4yjKuHihCJ40rW-qX0g8dLInASgT4G3vdQKKnjZOj50JgKDP7sci01Yah1DC99YZPQUOJGWGA=w2400)
Found some really thin metal and hidden rot in the bumper mounting and shock tower area of the front left frame rail... Took the time to level and square the car up, line up the body panels, and then off it came. Luckily, I did not finish welding the inner fender to the old rail so it only took a handful of spot welds to removed.
Getting the shock tower, inner fender, and rail all aligned was tricky, but overall not too hard. The AMD rail was a nice piece. The shock tower was much thicker than the original. I used the K frame as another reference point and a way to hold that heavy piece in place while fitting it.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/5dCSArDkFs2ZXZZQ3m-NiZtxAAkUejXox3CCW2avKsXsicCeDTXKdMbYvIF31bt-KN67OH3nR2elyPEqgyvORNxabiiduAybbW7zK9CTa5T4s6RYkq1FLVtR7CrYqAgQiL8yh-j8BA=w2400)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/4ntXK4RkvSuix6e1vAtJH9gxwRoLt6Mk-xJ0Sve2CkvYp2Sl5vCPVM7a2AkdEND3-golXVc52IWvh7AnjtQ9ksLmo6BaZSaaFx3IHA9cnNG3THIpBWKFwhi5HH7xQw7Waf74gkImuA=w2400)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/e8ug_seHplAtj0YldnsIJ-FfDNK_y4S3Os9a8sVqC4KeGsqlVzh4sSr2ZQOENcCjbqrE1KV5sI0Tc2j1Uxsykx19YLPaR1igidY4hRvJqVStLLoAG68MAIifQMZ_eSCBbint-1UVyA=w2400)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/5LtQFXk4GtxKqo0CRbdPsto46hy4O-qGLfBxFUUafxvclddf0m-C0H1cQ4k6-jfNO1xBDdyxZwxnnnj7VD8dMHMJKiKMe2p6fybjd8Hu7KWd4ZNeDs2dEpn9YWAj-1uEO00aX_9caQ=w2400)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Bcr3rWiLtYP5l7ISArvUcesY8ghQssxIB5ssOjsrl-NU61WQPXYhCyIQC_iQLhcCRFfamVjRxsX9sHL6VhcRDECduL6IWLTwUZooxPsTdaLYnOBRXRxZuLTKp5tsCaSafL3c43R4UQ=w2400)
Like everything else on this car, the rockers needed work. I ended up replacing the outer and repairing the inner on the driver side. I'm not sure what was worse, this or the firewall!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/45TPjdS64gQWUnntzLnRoVBGRpdyHRDCscae7yEC0Mz5YA86XLNIJ4suTxfgwpW-jjLUSm2e__H8StUATU4_1bGI-dX-YsgYel-M4m49m02S-Xn8CynF0hKyxxEmvdoJOMgp6hJgTw=w2400)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/wW_jPa6S-yMEVBt921E56aocbLD2y44SAlj_AN3GzeHseko4kkR5VxEha2TTJ0JX-7Vgtty8WsUeQjhgHge4ZO4nxGOUtKqguMjmXkmTtjFARFNj3YI7XFyeczmJBuCTXF1uYM943w=w2400)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/OPoyDLXFOYQaQv2yxFjnulAJjDMQabDZo4NcAhsOBszYEDPku9-3BdZTVXnprYqMS_q95kN6qG290f-hrUPdPi4iKGbLxT7bMaetDK3seY4hYmU3O0qj3hfykeqIp3ZdT_ndAXY2BQ=w2400)
Since the wheelhouses were rotten, the quarter came off next. Unrelated for now, but this 1974 vinyl top car did have lead in the sail panel seams.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/r1c99e9yGg8oYnbsQJtV24HSlDNik-54czd4mv3-VfO2NPdibY3WjfeGh0xlu8_ds12OiwbG6IfTB1Nt4Gjr99p1Z8n9GFsP9AF3s2101KdU_7spsFjlbQZZ4IiycvKgWyIi3glyFg=w2400)
And I found out that it had been hit at some point on that side. That's like an inch of bondo!!!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/R1lny5DfVlqa6yLhYLIWgLAaEkjW7lvvcGNskYIEvqulTIyMRcp_1pqnn2czxJr0fRf2CGupe3zI1mJS3QTrQB6Cbln32oQlff60rtjzVkyw4vJRAQvmLJnHRpi8YgHUxN_BvKhglQ=w2400)
And check out that wheelhouse patch - why even bother?!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/iTWYR5Z7ouJTA33HMO9esTjjjYS0HT_TitDv5rlslGrqH30WrMX_FdmaISP9_VjdMBdazETO2ka1H89MxttJ0HVSkScWaZxpN88ReApbMUsB3m4U6_ltJbEJwOxgX_MFqch1ZDyCdw=w2400)
1/4 fully removed...
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/xKbIYdUr_KGD8Ql0cGx3vrGluHlpMNNQR5vGY1fnbVqsEtlXVp1Su_ynUQ-SLUfEFeDex4DrlFLlSwjG2RHuP4tPj1Qv2cEEvSX4TFUCpPIFoVRCp0UXEhTy8C1ylSNq8ByVJVb5_Q=w2400)
Very early test fit of the new AMD full quarter. Not too bad. The rocker seam will need some work though. Also noteworthy, I replaced the hood since it was rotting bad in the support structure and had broken weld nuts for the hinges. I decided to change the exterior panels to 1970, so the front valance, fenders, and quarters are different. Tail panel too, but not installed yet. I know I'll get heat for it, but I've always loved the 1970 exterior looks and my 1974 grill and tail panel were in rough shape anyways, and there are very few replacement parts for them. Flame on!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Zd41VqWzS9iRacPQmp1s3wAVtoAcfmTodA9W5yWC9GVR8K-UV62S_DbVCQklrdLcs3aQYAYBZu-Z1szVeCLnjIzmYmV0nzMSHEsW3-tav_p5xYy7Bu2PFTuu1kqS90KLc5Y4GlNuVA=w2400)
New door jamb panel due to rust and really, really crappy welding work from when it was patched after the collision.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/723-BlwL0cbAMrc3NvtsxPoAdGTZc6bzOughmxLw09sbt34yiLYwBXjCc2iXiI7hNiugksdFcZAUmnp58a_GCs9u5TTMfk1TaHLztL4Lr8AsRU2N0d1PJRN_B8TYivrubvSlRf1X3Q=w2400)
More pointless previous patchwork... Not even sure why they wasted the effort. It didn't fit, seal, or do anything.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/OOfWOboDy-hYQeXsQew90-Zk_m4nYOrpoM7E2s1yU3z7nIJqka_PA8jiGXNHypLO37xd4QaoSsbXeUhf41dRe8mj7oDNLtzFuRZbRAOQpzPu1VbmEJkOm3616h50TB6Ul3n-7fnvzA=w2400)
Lots of rust damage out back... Wheelhouses, trunk pan/extensions, rear crossmember, even the frame rails and rear seat floor had cancer. All I reused was the shock crossmember and the fuel tank straps. Taking it apart is soooo much quicker than putting it back together!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/dW2prQBq1D5nvaYEBp3owWBmvjLiHXqjW1Z9d58YTY37Z87allhI2fJU6xYo_cZDmk0LQisbaKmXP-dG9dSQN_ShBNSYno7RrUE7ZJfTCVf31gqkREBkjvBfevdp6cQnDK66LZmCVg=w2400)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/3cZfkBQEANDtZfDDry8W5dAMVtL8gpSv6or35Vn0uR6BvtaN_vHxv9J7-r80Im8_kCGZaC4Jnca034YWAZh765ZY0HS5oSj_gtHt8a6eXTjncnPoqxYPaKJCPDlFbj95wi3B5qkRdw=w2400)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/rlT3bya5f1BKLr8vkZ292VyXvczRZP4NSBZ8zMRFbsN8O5M4IvG9L0TqtKykiuiyw0jmPDs6fsSuvGYsIdPSEOmoin1blAmkGIgxa6Rgmg1qUeT6MGOrf3lPGRCYUTm65EOlsueNcQ=w2400)
Instead of replacing everything individually and trying to weld in awkward positions, I opted to remove the rear "frame" out as one piece to mock up the new one side by side. Interesting note: the Dynacorn rear crossmember I used was way thicker than OE. I'm ok with that.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/GR4B5stKS_NA6ZXYoU9ZiOE_nqPFP40E5SieG5WuEBG9R3uvX33m97L3s7otpL9zdzLSwRuC6peuFFErAYavYzvIwJTH6ZrZAHzT90JVmQuYXTtD6IIrk-Enn97l32oRvmiZQdYnDw=w2400)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/LdqIk0D0yJcCXG6TnoVLTO4JI-BxnDmmqMVOK0XxVLWeq1I8oGPu6pAaVrIA10Vspy2vX_ibzszDzD8AKx5CaJziK2icIOJs0bLYZdGJ8q1BtdJPEyR4HWm68aUkC5Cv6LDKfpJxLA=w2400)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/qcdw5GQKaZMePTUlrnxW09768pXwPdWko4wESF2_jzpOJvwXrCTwPe05eLK4c093B5aBLRd4LGEq8hw9XKv-szLrMOw0fJ8Gy2rAnqJ-hSXLVjG1m7utwM6ckyjrkuNsXI0XVpQ5og=w2400)
Getting the new coilover crossmember and leaf spring mounts in.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/cq5yr9AtsKHRvWqjAG-3MJDWq1luSNhEjalSVrVjUS0wpmPNmlzi5l1OqD7EP6SU6qTFjeWFoMEQdIaihmPBA8YK1PlwGVUUt5rTSfvtIHqwceX5lYMDrWzYPg4RCB1q2rfIzZii2g=w2400)
The rear seat floor fit ok, but had some issues to be addressed. The seat belt buckle nuts were the wrong size, and the lower seat brackets were wrong, among other things.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/BYeHgBq8yn3RbrpQlXh7m-1ND-gru8VfAk6A4Y78Ksn3QvC9RJ0vfAMixGNFW-O0-xgFhr5d4ZirH6F_N25w1XHzFSqItHPaT1wtuwdSU001G9y0ci1Wt5hnsoWoFKnvEAa7C2LE_g=w2400)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/W-zk-wgsUq4dYPUsJ2TSTVwXq7n9estj-aHi9emv_mvoTkSJCO1BMUO3IgqUoZbX7uyE_TGhYo3GdQEQBQZbNoyFlALHsyXaJdLAKodOnpj-AJQgeBw5DyEm6XD2T0g5wvppG8zbXg=w2400)
New rear frame installed and epoxy/weld primed.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/fc4sEabXXGyLsEAHmMcrfq2wOFOIcOrEancN83m39Qf_YjSvfRmFRcA-XHgwtQ3Zfi9n9E6EbkFunzKzkugg_5e6-VvTa3AjLdLIfTWF0wUQLB33X8rUfnibJVEwlLMDYRsoUulMZQ=w2400)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/HuT2bUHTUPPtAPvhTmV6WU-6j-MUqhY003NvG3k71o10F_eEuCsQsPiQ7T6_s57cHGHqZdtKy7QvHZTB1tmj6GsYP_eD1XutbfNfs9KvU7IOX-09mw7j8DE-r_0sdidRsSj7FiQyNA=w2400)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_I9SGQKR-D3rTzGnBN2_UCHGlgDHt3lC0wpe4BzFFqtQkoWlip0nP4jmJAY_LBvdnMM3pCMbofFiZ0MUZP8kKdKAm845CtRnRVyuvuppE3qwjmwsJNMS19ZBOxnO8JB7JS7TPOCwZQ=w2400)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/r60c9wqiR8onsE1Mcu_TUK5PuR-Dontyl-BH2mnRN9QMXNOtod5ukwM3HvMfl9VH7T6i35pgFpfsA02gPRYL7FUMJ64AFmW-f4miLkLj3Pf3M_FVXVuGmhTlqHSyA269OWaUxnXHVQ=w2400)
Inboard spring (lower link in this case) relocation install.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Le-NEQFlo8_V63k8AMWln18Ft_fuCaE_Ddp4rTK_CnwHWI8JrFfcANY9wsHFhCYPtavV2V32dZxC6ISI9-SVp1SXTVFB1Q5LaExbz0JXSEcVsBStc4O5FoAbtlRSUncfqTj4IG10Ow=w2400)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Y7JCbfCMqxpTHcetF3tkMUxiBgQIhzW040e_IUggMMEWQhkrEo3qeHUgy12kW5bu9L0Zsp2_aq54F-Ea2zkCsieIyIFrSwzuVWBEnlAhSMJikPt9CxfCLdo7WrG9l6Vxk0BZDkGpPw=w2400)
Rear seat and trunk floors finally installed:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/9myJPycdI-5VIiUCQWrdxo-pJhX4CG8Ywsr-pFOc8C_22ZZ9KwhHPOZqwBLsr59qqclZ1omXsPwWd-m5T5R3V6TP5ONBSE0VJKHC0YNBEV4WSX_JzkX5xsU-bTU1u7nWkChgVczseQ=w2400)
I wasn't too impressed with the way the wheelhouses fit, particularly the inner. Good thing they were getting cut up to mini tub! The frame notch, while scary, was relatively painless. I used panel bond on the trunk floor to extension flange too.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/T5IGuJB69YbEJU_p1TSTzDtj0Vu2PKpaHnPvnapOPAVvq8HD7Pb4Dj3kpLllNgcvitocJ6gr6pzXFUsWKw3oqbTY2Wx7bxpqqgLqNXNmlTEg4vQICcQWlpnpdH6NL3lAIljqTqm_ug=w2400)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/z2PqJ-eGsFwRPvDb-M8-ITn1cLsGTSAmQ_tTQpg5nwZabBvE0Y4Ckj2uzWSmEeRCT4RsNUrw5WXi7Gh3SK75Aum0wRZ7e6r1sNP6osRJ3AHSnt_kNjgA9PBZyDn4xwUnzOKVIfHMFg=w2400)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Ij75ohW2iqNEP9q-8XVc8PSEEHSTwiH4OsTOUtW1F6qv38AxUQeNq4TOkLJKp6Y2oWYEnhfVJbA1rOSbL99B1_5wOAo0jhjcq4Qvhe1tv5eu586Pzrn-jQvaO-johijKW0UOPGPmCQ=w2400)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/3i-LC566uUTYdY6yFRvb7W0yWlJ2RNf4hcbTQoPmMTZHbGNCrqn2zPJkaYnD9WfVIwMZJ_F854jQ_7ao4bQLk0GhUJMStY--mV5NO2s9EoaWMzwHMIp01bu6AdpLTQv01FaEW-uvlA=w2400)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/cARdh1niJk00OvTCqPM5DSEnKjzuZbH7dlPdXlJHZBrLYUFBtjT4xagdHE5CHkCIoen4jHBxEUWg4guApijlw4RBNciKi8b4k8ory-p0rbU8r1tDhfk-5OYtRW9sihj943TsHWOwKg=w2400)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/tkhRGzy_jqxALjRVRMrQ9x2SN0EXCne9mixK6AQ2fkES7JBixRLWkRSs-EH1M806OgFjn_qCEL_6NdFIsI603nz-bF1w_cfS4PenLA5uhcPjuRQDvoVzTXuuOglpn5Sn8UAM6siriA=w2400)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/QIKmNC_RsQ78mc6y2PUoBWLFp6jz9xH8s-OzbzaIDyTSV0bglhncdsEdBIbCUeIGEamSoG5LWsMxnanlE0nTeqykpQIKWA13PoM9hacqbywHk-xKnxTxVOl_8pNKHHhKUiwpQPEm9g=w2400)
Wow, you are knee deep into this,
Impressive work, keep the pics coming.
Basically in real time now. Sooo close to getting that 1/4 hung! I did another mockup with the quarter and have more tweaking before I weld and/or glue it on.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/p4nDTH8uwoaPyeNII1gwaczBRRrwUP5HvUUGQhfJk0gfTxLsqXgrtiV6VsIIkcob2yn0ltdwNVp5uTsJap0Q78daCfvN2oxzQ_9owRoUq1B5hymkJxLbD75UStnNXoSi_GyhraQyXw=w2400)
Rust encapsulated the surface rusted areas.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/A165FVm3DHnPfOSybTRC80921VpryWQb5umQg-u1FoXOYMO2_aV1S0V7dSxgjoK7n_9rpi4Rl4_XaASK5v7fB5F-NlSIBej4o0N-Z4nMgM3KqwTvvtFF19H4ct2gaV5alTIqWK7cZg=w2400)
Epoxy primed.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/3q3JJidnJ9_Gt19oZ16qQTEsMLs16YSrwgksDF2buWuzqiJkj7zpm_94HUv-IfuRx0FM6MzGVy1zfcHV-VIBG_m9ijd22228YWu2Ssa05V2YIcQkFnLoejDl_lz46Jo7H8838XC0YA=w2400)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/EnP5ytXAEZFxiyG2Bz6F2WkCrkZS0Hxr23IbXFn0U_WiJARJOZtz7WqxajKOlabKzhQjlrI8tXS8bx2Hm313nua42nChBmJ1B2GBOgScvD3l7QLoMtGx2lUJRlWH8BPQbCWaaGzuDg=w2400)
I used 2 part 3M heavy bodied epoxy seam sealer for the joints that won't be accessible after the quarter is hung.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/MOlFnjH0fyEBKjHLOGE3lyh0CqMn48FsFuH1wx6KGTlF-t8zHVxvcRxBs3dmLl-6q7pnbu66-1S4sj3GOTErsUgJmnidtj_EMCPrXcjtAplnBhKqPYsO8d5cwzxrVR6oj64jkV0p5w=w2400)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/2SDMDPYN6RxnZllD2z99BtKN_5-UqxRadx0EWpmxXY0U4pj994-slweVlQO2Z2QhqHsWXA1YQKhlYhAWayHQKgXEfDWGklRzdBblO2830tEJE9uvg8eAf95QRiKjUkq8N70r0uvBZQ=w2400)
Undercoated and sound deadening with Resto Rick's special mix. I'm amazed at how fast this stuff cures! It was setting up in my spray gun already as soon as the pot was empty. It lays down real nice though.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/3UdwEWb2DiONn3PnzlXWlrN_LwrKSCeS3rxjkLX3W06nbN2IGoDDueLOPKuS6TVNPLtUiiyT5fLxvFMcX3TzEAZr90dEin9pf9hobF0em_3HWNduZRcsE0XTmJJA_-IJzAPwEw9Ajw=w2400)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/zlR0EZKduIPjJAZsm0bIt4Mt-Ub0dJAETOJQdVCmEQSyeTL-XDb8g2nUkprMXgMR3_jKrECW_vgJg3M_fFkbsKtG5HW5DNELuo6h3QAwNaJpWBtxLzLSzQ_4JTHt1De6uTjWNclczA=w2400)
Jesus! For a guy who started by saying that you didn't know anything about bodywork, you're going to graduate magna cum laude when you're finished here, laddie! Great photos and they actually gave me a wee chill as I did pretty much what you're doing on my own '74, right down to the bonding/welding of the firewall/cowl. I changed the right rail and installed the inners and outer hinge panels as well. When I saw the first pics with Clecos in it, I knew you were no pilgrim and you're doing a hell of a great job and plowing through it! I wish sometimes that I'd converted my tin over to '70 style, but it is what it is and you're going to have a fabulous car when you're done. Make sure to trial fit your doors and deck lid before you finalize your welding in those areas. I used bond kits for a lot of the seam sealing and sealed every GD seam under the car as well, because we both know that wherever there's a spot for water to enter on these cars, that there's going to be rust- and that's a non-starter after going to all this work! Well done and roll on with the repairs and the great pics!! :bigthumb:
:rubeyes:Nice work :twothumbsup:
Quote from: jimynick on December 08, 2019, 07:26:17 PM
Jesus! For a guy who started by saying that you didn't know anything about bodywork, you're going to graduate magna cum laude when you're finished here, laddie! Great photos and they actually gave me a wee chill as I did pretty much what you're doing on my own '74, right down to the bonding/welding of the firewall/cowl. I changed the right rail and installed the inners and outer hinge panels as well. When I saw the first pics with Clecos in it, I knew you were no pilgrim and you're doing a hell of a great job and plowing through it! I wish sometimes that I'd converted my tin over to '70 style, but it is what it is and you're going to have a fabulous car when you're done. Make sure to trial fit your doors and deck lid before you finalize your welding in those areas. I used bond kits for a lot of the seam sealing and sealed every GD seam under the car as well, because we both know that wherever there's a spot for water to enter on these cars, that there's going to be rust- and that's a non-starter after going to all this work! Well done and roll on with the repairs and the great pics!! :bigthumb:
Thank you!!! And I will most definitely be fitting everything before hanging that quarter. I found out pretty fast that basically none of these parts just drop right in and fit, well, maybe the trunk pan was the exception.... It darn near fell into place perfectly. Totally agree on the sealing part... I'm using panel bond wherever it makes sense, and judicious amounts of SEM Copper weld through primer wherever I MIG.
Yeah, prior to this I have not done one ounce of body or paint work. The thought always made me cringe. But so does a $100K body shop bill! I didn't even have any real welding experience prior to this. Quick learner I guess... I definitely made (and consequently had to correct) some mistakes early on.
Wow, doing a heluva job so far!!
:fingerscrossed:. It may take all you have, but you are getting closer. Way to be all in.
I'm starting to mock up the new tail panel, and one of the things I've struggled with the most on this resto has been the fact that when I measure anything from side to side I tend to get pretty big differences. I know tolerances were loose back in the day on these, but it often leaves me 2nd guessing myself since I rarely have a reference point I feel comfortable about relying on.
Could anybody take some measurements of the width and depth of the trunk opening? I measured from gutter to gutter, at the alignment notch, and near the tail panel before the curve and came up with 51 7/8". Measuring from decklid filler lip to tail panel lip I got 21" on the LH side and center with the OLD panel, and 21 3/8" on the RH side. Obviously, that's a pretty significant amount of variation, and it's on the side I am pretty sure has never been hit too! Diagonal is hard to measure with the curves.
The new panel is giving me similar measurements as well (21 1/8"), but also appears to be bowed in the center a bit too. No big deal and I'm sure I can work it, but I need to know what is right.
Lastly, if anybody could confirm that the lock support panel is NOT centered in the trunk I'd appreciate it! Mine is roughly an inch closer to the right hand side. I am absolutely certain it is where it was originally (I lined it up perfectly with the spot weld cutter holes on the original tail panel, clamped it in, and welded it to the floor and nothing moved), but it just seems odd that they would do that. I'm pretty sure my car was built on New Years' Day or July 5th, so would like to correct any misbuild issues now.
Just as an FYI, most of my frame measurements BEFORE repairs were anywhere from 1/4" to closer to 1/2" different from side to side. Now they are more like 1/8" to 1/4". Whatever happened when it got hit on the right rear side seems to have been isolated to damage in the quarter, wheelhouse, and tail panel corner at least.
Thanks in advance!
First off----DAMN!!!
GREAT JOB!
Thats a big ass can of worms you opened. But it looks like you are just getting shit done! Way to go!
Second- where are you exactly located? You can PM me if you prefer. I ask because I am in the NW burbs and i have a mint 74 cuda that's all original and rust free that you maybe able to use for some of your reference point measures. I know some things are diffeent on a cuda vs challenger but if you need a car....i got one you are welcome to measure off of.
Keep up the great work!
Sent from my LG-H932 using Tapatalk
Quote from: ClarkWGrizwald on December 11, 2019, 11:55:07 AM
First off----DAMN!!!
GREAT JOB!
Thats a big ass can of worms you opened. But it looks like you are just getting shit done! Way to go!
Second- where are you exactly located? You can PM me if you prefer. I ask because I am in the NW burbs and i have a mint 74 cuda that's all original and rust free that you maybe able to use for some of your reference point measures. I know some things are diffeent on a cuda vs challenger but if you need a car....i got one you are welcome to measure off of.
Keep up the great work!
Sent from my LG-H932 using Tapatalk
I appreciate the offer! I live near the Rt. 66 racetrack actually. If I run across anything I know is the same between models that needs verification I'll definitely take you up on it!
Awesome work! Keep posting!
ADD kicked in and I decided to strip the roof down to see how bad the rust was, and if I could repair it or needed to order a new skin. Luckily, it is in great shape for a vinyl top car!!!
(https://i.imgur.com/SkNeBVr.jpg)
The drip rails are excellent too.
(https://i.imgur.com/ise0mRO.jpg)
There are some pitted spots near both windows that will need repair though... How hard and what approach should I take given the intricate bends and visibility of this spot? Most of my patches are not visible, thank god. I can't believe nobody makes patches for these rust prone spots.
(https://i.imgur.com/FMyjiFk.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/AwVfNqb.jpg)
The decklid filler has some damage, but I think it's plenty repairable and will be under the glass and sealant so I'm a lot less worried about repairing that.
I threw some epoxy primer on it (poorly) to keep it from rusting until I get ready to repair it.
(https://i.imgur.com/L6SALDW.jpg)
It's really coming along good ! :twothumbsup:
Also installed the LH subframe connector and rear torque box. I'm planning on reinforcing the car as much as possible before I start on the right hand side since I'll be doing the inner and outer rockers. The subframe connector took a LOT of grinding. The rear torque box took surprisingly little. The front one is next, and it looks like it'll take a lot of work to fit. I epoxy and weld primed the insides of everything and plan on hitting them with Eastwood Internal Frame Coating when ready as well. Luckily, the subframe connector has drain holes and positions right under a body plug, so I should be able to coat the entire length.
(https://i.imgur.com/iyjEkV8.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/oh6FL5y.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/yGGXnjx.jpg)
Finally got this thing on wheels and mobile for the first time in a year as well - tail panel is up next.
(https://i.imgur.com/Ubqi22f.jpg)
Your last couple of posts the photos never loaded correctly it seems. I'm looking forward to seeing your progress! :cheers:
Quote from: jimynick on December 17, 2019, 08:53:30 PM
Your last couple of posts the photos never loaded correctly it seems. I'm looking forward to seeing your progress! :cheers:
Which posts with pics can't you see? They look fine on my end. Is anyone else having trouble viewing them?
Post 29 no pics showing....empty boxes
Sent from my LG-H932 using Tapatalk
Teething issues from using Google Photos, I suppose.... Could someone check post 26 and let me know if it is working again? If it is, I'll fix 28 as well.
Wow you had jumped in thoroughly there.
Attention to your steps shows you are on correct path. As offered earlier. Mine is an unmolested original 74 Challenger if you need anything measured or pictured.
Body unmolested but...
360 w/magnum accessories w/MS3X and LS coils in the works.
How does your setup run?
Mike.
Quote from: YellowThumper on December 18, 2019, 09:08:00 PM
Wow you had jumped in thoroughly there.
Attention to your steps shows you are on correct path. As offered earlier. Mine is an unmolested original 74 Challenger if you need anything measured or pictured.
Body unmolested but...
360 w/magnum accessories w/MS3X and LS coils in the works.
How does your setup run?
Mike.
It runs quite well! I have a custom made Jeep CMP sensor in the distributor location so it is full sequential. I use a Hall sensor with a custom bracket reading a custom made 36-1 trigger wheel that bolts to the back of the crank pulley. Drives great, starts like a new car, runs like one, and I get low to mid 20's MPG when cruising. I have dual widebands and utilize closed loop controls for that and idle. I also have an FRP sensor, dual knock sensors, and an EOP sensor so I can enable derates and engine shutdown protection modes. My MS3X controls IAC, A/C, low/high fans, a number of warning lights, launch control, and talks to the MS2 based TCM as well.
If it weren't for the power limitations of 40+ year old Mopar SB tech, I'd probably stick with it. But I'm really wanting more power and a warrantied, modern production Hellcrate with factory engineered and readily available parts is very tempting. My current build is cool, but the level of frankensteining and aftermarket/ancient tech parts makes me hesitant to road trip it. I also don't want to run a race block and heads; if I spend that much money I want better HP return on it and would just go 3G Hemi or Big Block.
Can someone confirm if the pics on Post 26 are working now??
Don't know how you tell what # each post is but no, pics don't show on next to last post on 2nd page.
Reply # 28 = nothing on my end.
Yea the pics are still not working.
Most of what you have is my setup also.
Crank trigger, 302 cam trigger also. All wired and plumbed in but life has been in the way from actually firing it with MS.
Will stick with my Frankenstein. And... some turbos on a 5.9 Magnum.
I have a build on here if you have some free time.
Your build though is unbelievable. Especially for the low loved 74s.
Mike.
Wow! Just found this post and to say I'm impressed would be an understatement. :worship: :clapping: Especially for a first attempt at body work. First to answer your question, no the pics still haven't posted. After seeing all the rot/cancer on your car, I'm feeling even more fortunate that for a Utah car all I needed to replace on my car was the trunk floor pan and dutchman panel. We did the quarters due to prior collision damage. I'm beginning to think my original owner didn't drive it during the winters but considering it had over 100K miles on the clock and was parked in 1983 I don't know. :dunno: Anyway, great job, especially of bracing everything before removing panels. Keep up the good work and keep the pics coming. :twothumbsup:
Thank you! Ok, I gave up and went to IMGUR. Hopefully you can see them now. I'll upload more tonight. I mocked up the 1/4, tail panel, lights, trunk lid, and trunk gutters. Overall, looking pretty good, but I need to get the rear end of the quarter inboard more and it won't since the trunk extension seems to be interfering with it.
I wanted to mock up everything out back before even thinking about installing the tail panel and 1/4. The tail panel needed some dremel work for the lock cylinder hole, and I think the LH tail lamp holes need to be opened up a hair as well.
(https://i.imgur.com/oTKEDOt.jpg)
I have a few issues to resolve with the 1/4 fitment though. Probably the biggest one being this huge difference in width (or height?) between the door and 1/4. Not sure which one is at fault since my old quarter was hacked and the body lines slathered under an inch of bondo.
(https://i.imgur.com/f1bzeEW.jpg)
The gaps taper a lot too. Wide up top and too close on the bottom.
(https://i.imgur.com/v2m4Hff.jpg)
Next issue is that the 1/4 needs to come in a bit more toward the back. I believe the tail panel and trunk extension are the issue, though I'm not sure how to resolve it. The tail panel is as far to the passenger side as possible and butted up to that quarter inside. Should I grind the perimeter of the tail panel on the driver side a little to allow the 1/4 to come in?
(https://i.imgur.com/yo4fSY3.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/oTVJM7g.jpg)
Not sure if I have an issue in this body line or not... It looks like it should be flat, but when I hold the trim piece up to the panel it follows the same line.
(https://i.imgur.com/zxhTDu7.jpg)
The bumper seems to fit ok and the same on both sides at least.
(https://i.imgur.com/xxvC5zh.jpg)
The wheel well and front of the trunk extension seem to mate up to the 1/4 pretty well - I think.
(https://i.imgur.com/vs5LeNr.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/M3LdHUd.jpg)
The quarter also seems to bottom out on the end of the trunk extension a bit too, and the holes for the valence stud do not line up well at all. They line up with the 1/4 holes, but the trunk extension ones are definitely off. Not sure what to do here either...
(https://i.imgur.com/7eSy8Z6.jpg)
Did they change the way the decklid filler to quarter seam welds in the later cars? On my quarter, that lip is horizontal, but on my old one and the decklid filler it was vertical, as shown below. I'll need to figure that out too.
(https://i.imgur.com/54yNPIX.jpg)
WOW, Very nicely done. :clapping: :bravo:
Yes it appears you will need some slicing to bring things in.
Someone on another thread had issue with the lower rear window panel being too wide preventing quarter from coming in enough.
Quote from: YellowThumper on December 19, 2019, 10:27:53 PM
Yes it appears you will need some slicing to bring things in.
Someone on another thread had issue with the lower rear window panel being too wide preventing quarter from coming in enough.
I don't think the decklid filler is the issue on mine, luckily. The 1/4 wants to slide in more, but it is bottoming out and hitting the outer edge of the tail panel and trunk extension. I'm going to confirm that the tail panel is centered on the rear crossmember, and if so, grind down the outer edge of the driver side so the quarter can come in more. If it's not centered, I'll grind down the passenger side to get it to slide over more.
I'll still have to deal with the trunk extension holes lining up, but it should get my seam gaps tighter hopefully.
Any ideas on what's going on with the door to 1/4? I'm not sure if my door is bent (wouldn't surprise me on this car) or if the 1/4 is at fault, and not sure how I would fix it either.
I don't have a Challenger door right now but from memory it looks like the quarter needs adjusting on it's top six inches. Draw a profile of the right door onto a piece of cardboard then cut it out with scissors and compare it to the drivers door and see if they're the same.
Right now the quarter is drooping down along the top of it along the trunk seam and along the quarter window surface.
Dose the quarter panel contour follow along with the striker panel contour? did you grind the striker panel, or is the paint line still visible. If the door is in question, look at the skin ware it wraps around the door frame and see if that looks natural or stretched. :alan2cents:
Thanks for the advice everyone! I'll check it out and report back. I'm fairly confident the RH side hasn't been hacked before, so I'm thinking that I should be able to measure from the quarter inner structure to the skin outside and compare it to the LH side in addition to the other checks to determine what is at fault. The doors are not original for sure either since the insides are still painted different colors, but the RH side doesn't appear to be covered in bondo. The driver side is so bad that you cannot even see the lower body line across most of it, so who knows what happened to that piece earlier in life. I'm honestly surprised I haven't found any patches made with beer cans and stop signs yet.
If only the one side was hammered I suggest making a cardboard cutout that follows contour of passenger side door and or quarter. See how it matches up to drivers side. That should give you the answer.
To me the door has appearance of not having correct contour.
Pics are all original build and paint.
Man, you've got a few issues going on here. Who's 1/4 is that? To my eye, the 1/4- as photographed- looks low in relation to the door, but you can only go up about an 1/8" or so before you lose the door to 1/4 bodyline match. The 1/4 looks like it's concave at the upper door to 1/4 and you may have to nibble some narrow pie cuts into the inner flange to allow the panel to bow out sufficiently to match the door contour. Try loosening the vicegrip on the rocker flange and stick a good sized screwdriver between the lower edge of the door to 1/4 and see if you can walk it back to get a gap. The 1/4 looks to want to go in tighter to the upper trunk panel and the flanges on that and the 1/4 are vertical and are meant to be welded to each other. You may be able to get some 'grips on those flanges and pinch them together better and that'll close your left 1/4 to deck lid gap. The deck to 1/4 gaps don't look too bad and you have to remember that these cars were fitted like crap from the factory, so if you're using an inexpensive AM 1/4 panel and expecting modern day fits, you're in for some slicing and dicing laddie. And that doesn't take into account the prior damage that you've referred to. Pull the 1/4 down tight to the wheelhouse and see where that takes you in regards to the trunk extension. The 1/4 flange is way too skinny at the rear bottom as it should cover the whlhse flange- and it doesn't. No biggie there as you can weld it in and bronze is just the ticket to fill and grind nicely. I wouldn't've welded in the whlhse before fitting the 1/4, but it's a wee bit late in the day to go there, eh? Keep wiggling, prying, cutting and torquing and see where you get. Good luck. :cheers:
Yeah, I'm not too thrilled with this piece at all. It's an AMD full quarter. I messed with it all day today and was able to get the decklid filler and decklid gaps tighter. Ended up grinding down the tail panel a bit and cutting a slice into the 1/4 flange to get it sucked in and flush fitting. The 1/4 is butted up tight to the bottom and side of the rocker now, and the wheelhouse flange is perfect except for that overhang where the trunk extension sticks out past the lip. It's bottomed out against the 1/4 so I can't pull it in anymore. I can trim that down though.
(https://i.imgur.com/JY2AITc.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/GIGWX0d.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/79xgvTT.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/GxhNnEF.jpg)
I'm still at a loss on what to so with the front of this panel. I unscrewed the door jamb to 1/4 flange and the door and 1/4 are almost flush now, but the 1/4 is waaaay too far out when compared to the passenger side at the door jamb pillar end. I measured the gap at the door jamb pillar to 1/4 flange, and also the gap between the inner and outer 1/4 window flanges on both sides.
(https://i.imgur.com/hWrtQMx.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/1DEWjo7.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/mCjcwLC.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Bh854E1.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/iuBD7d4.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/xrn6hMg.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/afhxvOU.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/eE0aZEc.jpg)
You can see how it fits closely at the bottom, and quickly gets too wide from the door jamb toward the top - unscrewed.
(https://i.imgur.com/iengX8M.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/7qv3OFF.jpg)
The door doesn't appear to be reskinned, but I'm thinking it has to be the issue now since the side to side 1/4 to jamb pillar and window track measurements are so far off. When the piece was screwed in, the two sides measurements are pretty even. The door to quarter gap is still a mess too, and the quarter sits a little higher than the door even though the body lines are aligned pretty close. Some of that is the bend line isn't as sharp of an angle as it should be though.
(https://i.imgur.com/hdkHt24.jpg)
Initially, I thought the rear end sagged somehow when working on it and that's why the door gap is so badly tapered, but I saved a piece of the old sail panel and it lines up perfectly with the new piece that is fitted and the existing body, so I don't think that is the issue. Ignore my pathetic attempt at epoxy priming the roof - it's just for temporary protection and I have ZERO intentions of painting it myself. That's where I throw in the towel!
(https://i.imgur.com/skNH6NB.jpg)
I also can't get the 1/4 to trunk extension holes to line up. They're closer now, but I cannot get them lined up without getting really ignorant with the panels. LOL. Fun times.
Sorry, not a body guy, cant help you at this point. These cars can really drive a person mad. Take your time and if you have to hire someone to help or give advice it might be worth your sanity. :bradsthumb:
Dude, you're my hero. Despite the problems you're having w alignment, kudos for even taking on all that work and hell of a job man! That car is gonna be solid when youre done.
Sorry, I'm not an experienced body guy either.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I think at this point you should take some measurements off the frame to ensure it is not twisted.
Also you can take several cross measurements from inside cabin up front at a pillars. Front of doors rear of doors and then back at the striker jam area. Something like roof across and down to base. Also from lower jamb areas up to the window channel levels. This can give you a lot of comparison numbers from left to right. It is even possible your drivers door is twisted. Measure across low to high and high to low.
Good luck.
Mike.
Great work!! And excellent pictures, just read the whole thread. Doing quarters myself right now (I am a newbie at body work also) and I realise I have to put the fenders and hood on to really check the gaps before I weld anything. I have a question about the panel bound and plug welding combo you did with the firewall, I like the idea of having it completely sealed between the welds. When you combine them, how does the welds affect the glue? Do you apply weld primer just at the plug weld spots? Or maybe I misunderstood and you are welding some areas and glueing others?
Quote from: YellowThumper on December 24, 2019, 08:35:27 PM
I think at this point you should take some measurements off the frame to ensure it is not twisted.
Also you can take several cross measurements from inside cabin up front at a pillars. Front of doors rear of doors and then back at the striker jam area. Something like roof across and down to base. Also from lower jamb areas up to the window channel levels. This can give you a lot of comparison numbers from left to right. It is even possible your drivers door is twisted. Measure across low to high and high to low.
Good luck.
Mike.
Good call... I know that my measurements are good on the frame sheet, but those are just a handful of the structural areas. It's entirely possible that the other parts of the body are not square. I'll definitely do that!
Quote from: soundcontrol on December 25, 2019, 04:15:52 AM
Great work!! And excellent pictures, just read the whole thread. Doing quarters myself right now (I am a newbie at body work also) and I realise I have to put the fenders and hood on to really check the gaps before I weld anything. I have a question about the panel bound and plug welding combo you did with the firewall, I like the idea of having it completely sealed between the welds. When you combine them, how does the welds affect the glue? Do you apply weld primer just at the plug weld spots? Or maybe I misunderstood and you are welding some areas and glueing others?
Yeah, I'd mock up darn near EVERYTHING before installing them. Valance, trim, door, hood, fender, etc.
Regarding the panel bond, you can SPOT weld through it, but you absolutely cannot MIG weld through it. It can't take the heat and will make for a horrible quality weld along with burning up around it. The product instructions will tell you that any MIG welding needs to be at least a few inches away from the panel bond.
I wouldn't waste time spot welding through it though either... I did on the cowl sides because it was the only area I could get my cheapo clunky spot welder full access to, but without a professional spot welder that hydraulically clamps and adjusts current to ensure a consistent weld, you're probably getting very inconsistent welds with some of them hardly bonding and others overpenetrating.
The panel bond by itself is far stronger than spot welding as it is given the surface area of a whole flange instead of a few touch points.
For a panel where I do both plug welding and glue, I apply weld primer only to the areas to be welded ensuring that the glued areas will be far enough from the heat. You'll need to strip the areas to be glued down to bare metal. After that, all you do is apply a bead to each side, smear it to cover all bare metal, and clamp away! Unbelievably easy and time saving to use - in the right places.
If you need to use screws to hold parts together during gluing you can remove them after it cures still and fill the holes with more epoxy. Don't try to weld them closed or you'll destroy the bond.
Quote from: Dmod1974 on December 25, 2019, 07:08:56 AM
Yeah, I'd mock up darn near EVERYTHING before installing them. Valance, trim, door, hood, fender, etc.
Regarding the panel bond, you can SPOT weld through it, but you absolutely cannot MIG weld through it. It can't take the heat and will make for a horrible quality weld along with burning up around it. The product instructions will tell you that any MIG welding needs to be at least a few inches away from the panel bond.
I wouldn't waste time spot welding through it though either... I did on the cowl sides because it was the only area I could get my cheapo clunky spot welder full access to, but without a professional spot welder that hydraulically clamps and adjusts current to ensure a consistent weld, you're probably getting very inconsistent welds with some of them hardly bonding and others overpenetrating.
The panel bond by itself is far stronger than spot welding as it is given the surface area of a whole flange instead of a few touch points.
For a panel where I do both plug welding and glue, I apply weld primer only to the areas to be welded ensuring that the glued areas will be far enough from the heat. You'll need to strip the areas to be glued down to bare metal. After that, all you do is apply a bead to each side, smear it to cover all bare metal, and clamp away! Unbelievably easy and time saving to use - in the right places.
If you need to use screws to hold parts together during gluing you can remove them after it cures still and fill the holes with more epoxy. Don't try to weld them closed or you'll destroy the bond.
Thanks Dmod, thats what I suspected, I will get some panelbond anyways for my next project, working on my 70 conv. now, but the next one (a -73) will need a firewall/cowl. The lower cowl to firewall flange seems lika a good place for glue, lots of water gets in there.
Update: I really couldn't find anything glaringly wrong with the body measurements, but I do think I have the issue mostly narrowed down. The replacement door jamb pillar needs rework. After hammering on the flange in opposing directions at the top and bottom I was able to get the lower door to 1/4 gap wider and the upper tighter. I think the flange needs to come outward at the top as well and the two panels will be flush.
(https://i.imgur.com/plItBJI.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/8THvmEd.jpg)
It's not where it needs to be yet, but it's definitely a lot better than before. :dunno: Before the lower was so tight that the door was actually rubbing with everything clamped in place.
As you have already proven you know.
Step by step by step by step.
Eventually you will get it there.
With gaps close and surfaces aligned, you then have the option to add and subtract from the actual door edge for tje level of perfection you ultimately want.
Mike.
Is the 1/4 lip at the door/1/4 lower 90' from the face of the 1/4? Sometimes they can get bent in and then they'll contact the lock pillar prematurely while eating up the clearance you need for the proper door-1/4 gap. If it is, then you'll have to take a block of wood and set the lock pillar back the needed amount. If you have access to one, a bodyman's jack would make a good push to the lower corner pushing the 1/4 back to get a decent gap. If you can't get any more movement at that upper area, you could make a couple of narrow (1/8") pie cuts in the flange to allow the panel to curve to where you want it. They're easily welded up afterwards. Looks like you're getting there! :cheers:
Quote from: jimynick on December 27, 2019, 10:06:19 PM
Is the 1/4 lip at the door/1/4 lower 90' from the face of the 1/4? Sometimes they can get bent in and then they'll contact the lock pillar prematurely while eating up the clearance you need for the proper door-1/4 gap. If it is, then you'll have to take a block of wood and set the lock pillar back the needed amount. If you have access to one, a bodyman's jack would make a good push to the lower corner pushing the 1/4 back to get a decent gap. If you can't get any more movement at that upper area, you could make a couple of narrow (1/8") pie cuts in the flange to allow the panel to curve to where you want it. They're easily welded up afterwards. Looks like you're getting there! :cheers:
I ended up making some cuts in the pillar flange and quarter along with reworking the wheelhouse flange to get it fitted up. Additionally, I ended up moving the striker outward. I would have thought that would have made the flushness issue worse, but it did the opposite! Figure that one out! The only thing I can think of is that the door latch was not fully latching despite feeling otherwise before. Now it locks up tight and like the other side with no play at all. It let the door get sucked in more and after all of that the two panels were almost perfectly flush and the gap even top to bottom! I'll probably scoot the door and fender back a bit eventually to tighten it even more, but I'm not bothering with that until I replace the door skin and probably screw up the work I just did today, LOL.
(https://i.imgur.com/FRNmzMe.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/KfF86QR.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/mFTwEDz.jpg)
I still have work to do with the trunk extension - that's my next task on getting this stupid panel hung and moving onto hopefully easier things. The quarter needs to come in more but it can't since there is a spot on the rear of the trunk extension that I need to massage a bit. I can see it with a light through the side marker hole but couldn't get my phone in there to get a good pic.
After that, we'll see where the valance mounting points line up. Thanks everyone for the advice and words of encouragement!
(https://i.imgur.com/cfBRni2.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/7lrXD2Q.jpg)
Body line is there, gap is even. Good job. :handshake:
Yes: Good job, that's so much better.
Great to hear there is positive progress.
Help is what this :grouphug: is for...
Looking good ! :twothumbsup:
For fit up, do you add any weight in the door for possible sag?
Quote from: Cudakiller70 on January 01, 2020, 03:12:42 PM
For fit up, do you add any weight in the door for possible sag?
Yes, the doors still have all of the guts in them - glass, regulators, etc...
Thats weird with the striker, I have mine all the way in and it seems that it should be in even more to get the door flush, but now I will try to move it out again to see if mine does the same as yours.
I've been fooled by the strikers before as well. It has to click twice.
Quote from: RUNCHARGER on January 02, 2020, 08:14:46 AM
I've been fooled by the strikers before as well. It has to click twice.
Yup! I was both relieved and extremely pissed when I realized that was all I needed to get the panels to fit right. I don't want to even think about the amount of hours I spent messing with it... :pullinghair:
I got the tail panel welded in today. When I first started welding on this car I was spending tons of time grinding down my welds after... And blowing through, or not getting enough penetration since I didn't drill big enough holes...... A few thousand plug welds later and I think I'm getting decent! Most of these required no touch up from the grinder since they were flush or slightly convex.
I didn't do the welds across the trunk extension since I want to have some wiggle room when I hang the quarter.
(https://i.imgur.com/PvRiJIa.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/eoet77E.jpg)
Tomorrow morning I'll probably weld/glue the quarter panel in finally. I could still do it today, but I'm totally dragging my feet since it's an exterior panel and I only have one shot to make it look good!
I finally manned up and hung the quarter for the last time. All of the welds are in and the epoxy is setting. Other than needing a hundred clamps, the epoxy was relatively uneventful. I ended up epoxying the wheel house lip, rocker pinch weld, 1/4 to trunk gutter rail, 1/4 to door jamb pillar, and the 1/4 to trunk extension joint. Everything else was plug welded. In a day or two I'll yank and fill in the screw holes and remove the clamps.
(https://i.imgur.com/xC4pNoA.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/fQcwEXp.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/yUmJYD4.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/t82rLqf.jpg)
My trunk lid hinge bracket is loose since some of the welds are separated on that side, but I have clearance despite the pic above. I only set it down roughly to make sure the 1/4 bent fit it well. I have room to adjust the gap still.
I did NOT weld or bond the decklid filler yet since I will be removing it to repair or replace. Another example of horrible factory quality: I was able to separate the decklid filler from the package tray lip where the bottom of the rear window sets without ever having to cut a spot weld. The 1/8 pilot drill bit was all that was needed to break them loose; I didn't even have to seam split anything! I'll take the easy removal though....
This was a royal PITA, but I think the other side will be easier since it was never smashed and I have some 1/4 panel experience now.
Nice! Did you use screws to clamp the quarter to door jam pillar? The 3M Panel Bond is expensive here in Sweden, 80 bucks for a tube, how much did you use for 1 quarter?
Quote from: soundcontrol on January 08, 2020, 02:23:22 PM
Nice! Did you use screws to clamp the quarter to door jam pillar? The 3M Panel Bond is expensive here in Sweden, 80 bucks for a tube, how much did you use for 1 quarter?
Yes, I tried to avoid it but there is no reasonable way to clamp that joint adequately without them. Not a big deal since I'll just fill them in with more epoxy once removed.
I used an already opened and slightly used 200ml tube. If you buy one of those you should have more than enough, provided you are using it in the same areas of course. If you glue the entire panel in, it'll likely take an entire tube.
It's coming along, coming along. I think you made the right call as to where you bonded your 1/4 and you don't have to worry too much as to it's setting up. As you know, it's 2K and it'll be harder than Chinese arithmetic inside a couple of hours. As for the 1/4 to rear valance gap, welcome to E body-land! I've seen gaps in factory cars that are 1/2" all the way to an 1/8th". If you can't get to split the difference on the rt 1/4 then you may be into sectioning the valance and I'd do it in the slot for the bmpr grd, it's shorter and virtually flat. Hell, you'll be able to get a part time job in a bodyshop by the time you're done! :bigthumb: :cheers:
Quote from: RUNCHARGER on January 02, 2020, 08:14:46 AM
I've been fooled by the strikers before as well. It has to click twice.
Btw, I also tested to move the striker out today...jackpot!
Thanks!
Sweet work man! I'm plugging away on a 74 Challenger as well. I started on the rear section of the car first so I'll likely use some of your pics as a reference when I make my way to the front.
Would love to hear more about the Megasquirt EFI system. I plan on building up the 440 I have with EFI once I get the body finished.
Quote from: jimynick on January 08, 2020, 02:46:17 PM
It's coming along, coming along. I think you made the right call as to where you bonded your 1/4 and you don't have to worry too much as to it's setting up. As you know, it's 2K and it'll be harder than Chinese arithmetic inside a couple of hours. As for the 1/4 to rear valance gap, welcome to E body-land! I've seen gaps in factory cars that are 1/2" all the way to an 1/8th". If you can't get to split the difference on the rt 1/4 then you may be into sectioning the valance and I'd do it in the slot for the bmpr grd, it's shorter and virtually flat. Hell, you'll be able to get a part time job in a bodyshop by the time you're done! :bigthumb: :cheers:
LOL, I'm not sure I'd ever do this again, at least not on a car from the Midwest! I don't know how some of you guys do this day in and day out, on multiple cars no less!
Quote from: daaboots on January 09, 2020, 11:51:15 AM
Sweet work man! I'm plugging away on a 74 Challenger as well. I started on the rear section of the car first so I'll likely use some of your pics as a reference when I make my way to the front.
Would love to hear more about the Megasquirt EFI system. I plan on building up the 440 I have with EFI once I get the body finished.
Thanks! I've watched your videos and it's great seeing someone else in a similar boat. Misery enjoys company! :))
Megasquirt is awesome. It can support the most basic of installs and it can also do anything the high end ones can. The customization and flexibility is amazing. I'm using more features and functions than most muscle car guys, and yet still barely tapping into its capabilities. One caveat is that you will likely have to do all of the tuning on your own. There are very few MS proficient tuners out there, and many shops get really uneasy about using it. For things that require dyno tuning, expect to do some hunting or find a friend at a speed shop that is willing to use something different.
If you have any specific questions, lemme know and I'll do my best to answer them.
Quote from: Dmod1974 on January 09, 2020, 12:49:44 PM
Quote from: jimynick on January 08, 2020, 02:46:17 PM
It's coming along, coming along. I think you made the right call as to where you bonded your 1/4 and you don't have to worry too much as to it's setting up. As you know, it's 2K and it'll be harder than Chinese arithmetic inside a couple of hours. As for the 1/4 to rear valance gap, welcome to E body-land! I've seen gaps in factory cars that are 1/2" all the way to an 1/8th". If you can't get to split the difference on the rt 1/4 then you may be into sectioning the valance and I'd do it in the slot for the bmpr grd, it's shorter and virtually flat. Hell, you'll be able to get a part time job in a bodyshop by the time you're done! :bigthumb: :cheers:
LOL, I'm not sure I'd ever do this again, at least not on a car from the Midwest! I don't know how some of you guys do this day in and day out, on multiple cars no less!
Ha! Then think of us dumb schmucks working on Canadian cars! On my 74, I changed both full 1/4's, both inner and outer wheelhouses, the trunk floor (1pc), deck lid and both gutters. I salvaged the rear upper and lower body panels. Did I mention the front full floor, firewall, cowl, lft and rt door hinge pillars and frt inner aprons as well as the rt frt rail? Believe me brother, you're in a rather large club and we all seem to have the same mental deficiency that causes us to fix these rust buckets! :)) :cheers:
Wow look at all these 74s coming out of the woodwork.
Ripped out the passenger side floor pans today. Had I know I'd be in this deep I would have gone with a one piece front floor, but oh well. The torsion bar crossmember is in great shape on this side too, as is the back end of the front rail.
You can't see it in this pic but the rear inner rocker was so rotten that I could not weld the leaf spring hangers on the rear frame assembly on that side when I initially installed it a few months ago. The shell was so light and the back end so stiff that the body casters still worked ok on that corner. I now have the car leveled back out and that corner is being supported by a jack stand under a solid part of the rocker, for now.
(https://i.imgur.com/nU7RJwt.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/d9D7RAn.jpg)
The new AMD front pan fits like a glove so far.
(https://i.imgur.com/nOJYN5c.jpg)
The rear pan fits so so, just like on the other side. The back part that mates up to the rear seat area doesn't follow the bends the same way. I'm hoping I can get it to conform as I screw it down, otherwise I'll have to cut and reform it.
(https://i.imgur.com/xpSiVbD.jpg)
The reason I'm doing the right floor pans now is because I want to weld in the other subframe connector and lock the structural parts of this chassis together before I start on the inner and outer rocker panel next.
My plan is to sheet metal screw the new pans into the rocker ledge temporarily for now and weld/bond them permanently to the firewall, rails, crossmember, and each other. That way I can support the body by the subframe connector, frame rail, and crossmember since that will all be a structurally sound assembly. I'll also keep the existing bracing inside the car to keep everything from moving.
I'll then replace the inner and outer rockers and index them to everything else which should make it easy to locate them properly. Thoughts on that approach?
Hang the door and check your door/ rocker gaps before you weld it up. This is your chance to out-do the factory in their alleged panel fitting. :cheers:
Quote from: YellowThumper on January 09, 2020, 07:47:25 PM
Wow look at all these 74s coming out of the woodwork.
The rarest ebodies!
Unlike those run - of-the - mill '70s......seems like everybody has one of those..... :pokeeye:
Quote from: dodj on January 11, 2020, 05:46:34 AM
Quote from: YellowThumper on January 09, 2020, 07:47:25 PM
Wow look at all these 74s coming out of the woodwork.
The rarest ebodies!
Unlike those run - of-the - mill '70s......seems like everybody has one of those..... :pokeeye:
LOL! Yowsir! If you ever get down to the Cambridge area, let me know and I'll buy you a few beers for stating that fabulous truth! :twothumbsup: :rofl:
Haha the few and the proud.
Mine is even more rare with the 3 spd option. Obviously an option no one wanted. 4spd now though.
Quote from: YellowThumper on January 12, 2020, 05:39:10 PM
Haha the few and the proud.
Mine is even more rare with the 3 spd option. Obviously an option no one wanted. 4spd now though.
:bigthumb:
Quote from: jimynick on January 11, 2020, 06:51:40 PM
Quote from: dodj on January 11, 2020, 05:46:34 AM
Quote from: YellowThumper on January 09, 2020, 07:47:25 PM
Wow look at all these 74s coming out of the woodwork.
The rarest ebodies!
Unlike those run - of-the - mill '70s......seems like everybody has one of those..... :pokeeye:
LOL! Yowsir! If you ever get down to the Cambridge area, let me know and I'll buy you a few beers for stating that fabulous truth! :twothumbsup: :rofl:
I will be taking you up on that sir... :drinkingbud:
Not sure if your idea of 'a few' is the same as mine..... :D
Managed to find some time to strip the RH front frame rail further. Overall, it's in pretty good shape. It does have a few areas that need repairing up front though. What gauge steel are the rails made out of?
This passed the pick hammer test, but it's pitted pretty badly so I plan on patching it. Pretty sure the factory 1974 bumper brackets covered this area and explain the rust damage.
(https://i.imgur.com/5LPbAOF.jpg)
Crush damage from overtightening the Alterktion subframe supports, and probably thin as well from rust forming behind the factory bumpstop. I'll patch it and sleeve the bolt holes.
(https://i.imgur.com/DvP9UqG.jpg)
Engine bay side right behind the shock tower. Don't ask me why it rusted bad here, and only here in this small area! Completely solid all the way around it...
(https://i.imgur.com/pEqVkum.jpg)
Weird pinhole that formed behind where the bumpstop must have been and trapped water/debris.
(https://i.imgur.com/SOXywgy.jpg)
I also managed to get the inside of the exposed rail and crossmember rust encapsulated and epoxy primed, along with priming the new panels and newly installed splash panel. AMD shipped me 2 LH support brackets for the splash panels. but I was able to rebend and fabricate a RH bracket out of the extra LH one. I learned some tricks after doing the driver side pans, and this side only took a fraction of the time as a result so far. I should have the new floor pans welded in this weekend if I get time. :woohoo:
(https://i.imgur.com/S7mg8zX.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/wCem9BZ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ZSNe4Z2.jpg)
Wow you are really moving along on this.
Thanks for updates.
Nice to get inside the frame rails! I sand blasted and used 2k epoxy where I could get to them, (under the trunk floor) and the ones where I did not get to I found a great hard wirebrush with a long shaft, made for chimneys, fit the frame rails perfectly, then I used Eastwoods internal frame coating there. Got perfect coverage with their 360 nozzle, checked inside with a USB camera.
Quote from: soundcontrol on January 14, 2020, 01:30:00 AM
Nice to get inside the frame rails! I sand blasted and used 2k epoxy where I could get to them, (under the trunk floor) and the ones where I did not get to I found a great hard wirebrush with a long shaft, made for chimneys, fit the frame rails perfectly, then I used Eastwoods internal frame coating there. Got perfect coverage with their 360 nozzle, checked inside with a USB camera.
I actually ran through my first 3 cans of that stuff coating the LH side rails, torque boxes, rockers, subframe connector, tank straps. wheelhouse/1/4 hidden areas, and the torsion bar crossmember. Need to order a bunch more for the other side and all of the hidden areas in the interior and roof area that I won't have access to.
Got the new floors welded in except for the rocker seam. The trans tunnel butt weld sucked! That metal is unbelievably thin and burns through so darn easy. I had to fab up a tunnel hump to firewall flange section since the original one was smashed up and rusted. Half of the tunnel will get ripped out and redone when I do the 6 speed conversion, so I'm not too upset if some of it is an eyesore right now.
(https://i.imgur.com/OVc3ZXj.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ALbkQv6.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/PRdGtu4.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/uqVAQzA.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/DHFReQG.jpg)
I had a change of heart and opted to weld the firewall to floor and trans tunnel seams instead of using 3M adhesive. The floor support brackets and the upcoming trans tunnel mods are going to have welding going on too close to the epoxy to survive. I actually ended up scraping off and redoing (welding) the LH side since it came apart and must have been compromised when the floor support and splash panel welds were done.
I'll use it again for the RH 1/4 panel and trunk extension to trunk floor seam though. I also plan on using it on a portion of the rocker bottom pinch weld area too, just like the driver side. I bought 3M Impact Resistant Structural Adhesive for that (IRSA) since it is made for structural areas and I want maximum strength in that area, of course. The front and rear where the 1/4 panel, splash panel, and torque boxes all attach will still be welded up as will the entire top pinch weld.
Next up, RH side subframe connector installation!
LOL! Man, that one photo with the dead blow, wizzy wheel and Rolocs, vice grips and BFH tell a tale, eh?! Roll on laddie, you've got 'er on the ropes now! :cheers:
Quote from: jimynick on January 18, 2020, 10:01:37 PM
LOL! Man, that one photo with the dead blow, wizzy wheel and Rolocs, vice grips and BFH tell a tale, eh?! Roll on laddie, you've got 'er on the ropes now! :cheers:
Story. Of. My. Life. On this car! :)) My garage will never be clean again with the amount of rust and abrasive dust I've created on this project.
The floors on this side were actually pretty easy. The rear one pulled into place once screwed down, and the front needed just a little persuasion to fit close to the torsion bar crossmember where it bends up over the trans tunnel.
Looking real good, I like the prep work inside the rails, etc... :twothumbsup:
Currently welding in a floor for another project. Yes getting trans hump to align along with the rest is a pain.
Finished up welding in the RH side subframe connector and getting all of the panel gaps as good as I can before starting on the quarter and rocker. I'm pretty happy with the hood to fender gaps and front valance fitment. The door gaps are as good as they'll get before I weld/grind the ends, which I'm not doing until I reskin the doors.
(https://i.imgur.com/2XDI8f7.jpg)
I ripped off the RH quarter panel too.
(https://i.imgur.com/4MNDMEU.jpg)
I stand corrected about this side being untouched!
(https://i.imgur.com/AmHhAA4.jpg)
Bondo worms!!!
(https://i.imgur.com/DEtFu58.jpg)
Another pointless "patch"....
(https://i.imgur.com/AFeFga7.jpg)
Initial fitting of the new quarter panel. So far, this side is going waaaay better than the other. Pretty happy with the overall fitment and it seems to fit like a glove in most ways.
(https://i.imgur.com/XPQh0rM.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/LvpPs2Q.jpg)
The door gaps are dead even.
(https://i.imgur.com/G7ItU4R.jpg)
I was able to get the flip top fitted with little drama. Minor grinding of the flip top cap mounting pads was all that was required.
(https://i.imgur.com/b8UMAmJ.jpg)
Hard to see, but the quarter seems to fit the OE trunk extension valance flange pretty well!
(https://i.imgur.com/bYHU9Du.jpg)
I do have similar issues with the panel contours on this side as well though. I'll be pie cutting and grinding the flange and jamb pillar to fit better.
(https://i.imgur.com/v4folfk.jpg)
Nice progress.
The second side comes with the knowledge learned on the first side...
Ripped out the old wheelhouse and fitted the new ones along with installing the trunk extension.
(https://i.imgur.com/5fQgRPH.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/wcMeg9f.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/QwBrlcv.jpg)
Also completed the frame notch and started welding up the mini tubbed wheelhouse too.
(https://i.imgur.com/XzxLMAp.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/9CKfw0I.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/SPmFT6G.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/KbJ0WQ8.jpg)
I'll grab some pics of the modified and hopefully installed wheelhouse tomorrow along with a better angle of the notched rail to show its impact.
Did your trunk extension fit well? I'm still struggling with mine. Fits well towards the wheelhouse, trunk floor and the edge to the wheel opening on the quarter. But not good towards the quarter lower part (with the drain hole) and towards the rear valance.
Quote from: soundcontrol on February 02, 2020, 07:04:40 AM
Did your trunk extension fit well? I'm still struggling with mine. Fits well towards the wheelhouse, trunk floor and the edge to the wheel opening on the quarter. But not good towards the quarter lower part (with the drain hole) and towards the rear valance.
This side, overall, is fitting up a lot better than the driver side did. On the drivers side, I had to do some serious surgery to the quarter and trunk extension flanges to make the valance fit at all. I still have some tweaking to do to perfect the valance flange on the passenger side, but I don't think it'll take more than some hammer and dolly work.
I'm certainly not going to have to cut and reweld the flanges along with shaving the trunk extension down so it doesn't overhang the lower quarter seam. Something was seriously off with the driver side extension.
Again...awesome work :worship:
I'll echo Alan's comment about the awesome work you're doing. Panel replacements and body work at this level is practically a dark art for me as I lack the skill or experience to ever consider taking on a car project like yours. Nice work. :worship:
Quote from: Dmod1974 on February 02, 2020, 07:26:28 AM
Quote from: soundcontrol on February 02, 2020, 07:04:40 AM
Did your trunk extension fit well? I'm still struggling with mine. Fits well towards the wheelhouse, trunk floor and the edge to the wheel opening on the quarter. But not good towards the quarter lower part (with the drain hole) and towards the rear valance.
This side, overall, is fitting up a lot better than the driver side did. On the drivers side, I had to do some serious surgery to the quarter and trunk extension flanges to make the valance fit at all. I still have some tweaking to do to perfect the valance flange on the passenger side, but I don't think it'll take more than some hammer and dolly work.
I'm certainly not going to have to cut and reweld the flanges along with shaving the trunk extension down so it doesn't overhang the lower quarter seam. Something was seriously off with the driver side extension.
Same here, I have to cut it to fit, have not done it yet though. It doesn't even fit well on the quarter/valance with everything off the car. Hoping for a better fit on the right side.
I managed to finish up mini tubbing and installing the new wheelhouses on the passenger side. Go easy on my welds; I took these pics immediately after welding them in a hazy garage! They look a lot better after they are wire wheeled to knock off the spatter and weld primer.
(https://i.imgur.com/rxVi3kL.jpg)
Modified trunk hinge bracket
(https://i.imgur.com/M0i0lKB.jpg)
Modified support bracket.
(https://i.imgur.com/UlpVTbS.jpg)
Modified package tray bracket
(https://i.imgur.com/q3tPTRk.jpg)
Here's a good view to give you an idea of the difference in width after tubbing.
(https://i.imgur.com/QgJV3wY.jpg)
Up next weekend: outer/inner rocker panel R&R!
Nice! :wowzers:
Wow nice work! Lots of work accomplished so far! :bravo:
Looks great!
The inner and outer rockers are both yanked out now. It's amazing how much damage a simple mouse nest wreaked over the decades....
(https://i.imgur.com/uovp6Cj.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/5zFUjrk.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/6IWri54.jpg)
Cool views of everything that luckily, did not move at all courtesy of having the subframe connector welded in. The inner should be plug and play.
(https://i.imgur.com/T2RG7pl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/A8d0U4D.jpg)
The AMD inner rocker is spot on compared to the OE. Super happy with the way the rough fit is going! Not sure why Mopar put that large hole in the rear of the inner rockers; it's the perfect entrance for rodents to nest. I think I'll keep it to spray frame coating inside, but will plug it with a rubber plug once done.
(https://i.imgur.com/hUa1lz3.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/521HbB8.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/0yEoDHn.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/dxZX2K6.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/AeyTUgZ.jpg)
I installed the new inner and outer rockers along with the torque boxes; this car is now 100% structurally solid again! I'm finally ready to remove all of the interior bracing which will make it much easier to weld in the new seat belt and 4 speed console brackets along with the tunnel hump.
Prepped and painted
(https://i.imgur.com/Btbf8v6.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/qlhycaa.jpg)
Inner installed; I resprayed it for extra protection after welding/grinding.
(https://i.imgur.com/K387ABr.jpg)
And outer installed. I'm really happy with the way it turned out. My door bottom gaps are probably half what they were originally now, and everything fits as it should after reinstalling the 1/4 and fender for mockup.
(https://i.imgur.com/6MbGzTH.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/zdEd79a.jpg)
I plug welded everything except for the middle beam of the bottom outer to inner flange. That was done with 3M Impact Resistant Structrural Adhesive for strength and corrosion protection. I'd do all of the bottom seam that way, but the welding heat from the torque boxes would have compromised it and I didn't want to install them before the outer rocker in the event that the thin inner warped or distorted.
Inner structure sprayed in epoxy primer after clean up:
(https://i.imgur.com/Oj7bej7.jpg)
Amazes me how far you've come in a little over two months!
:wrenching:
:clapping:
Wow. Congrats on the milestone!
Quote from: dodj on February 16, 2020, 02:03:55 PM
Amazes me how far you've come in a little over two months!
:wrenching:
:clapping:
Yeah, I'm done with school finally and it's winter, so I have a lot more free time! At least until it gets nice outside again. And sleep is overrated.
Quote from: YellowThumper on February 18, 2020, 03:28:18 PM
Wow. Congrats on the milestone!
Thank you! Not a whole lot left to do on this shell; I'm really hoping I'll have it ready to turn over to a painter for spring/early summer.
The rockers looks very difficult!
I see you are welding the seams inside the wheelhouses to the trunk floor and
even the outer wheelhouse back edge to the trunk floor, I'll guess you also plug weld the wheelhouse from the inside like stock?
And now my real question :D
Do you upload your pictures or add them some other way?
You can write text under each picture, which is nice, all my pictures appears at the end of my post.
Quote from: soundcontrol on February 19, 2020, 06:11:15 AM
The rockers looks very difficult!
I see you are welding the seams inside the wheelhouses to the trunk floor and
even the outer wheelhouse back edge to the trunk floor, I'll guess you also plug weld the wheelhouse from the inside like stock?
And now my real question :D
Do you upload your pictures or add them some other way?
You can write text under each picture, which is nice, all my pictures appears at the end of my post.
The rockers weren't terrible! Having the subframe connector welded in made it a lot safer and easier. Nothing budged during the repair since the connector had the chassis locked in place already. I still think the driver's side quarter was the worst job so far... Even more than the firewall.
Yup, the wheelhouse is seam welded around the perimeter, and also plug welded where possible. Some of it has to be seam welded since the trunk floor/frame rail 90 degree flange is trimmed off to make room for the tub. One thing is for sure - that wheelhouse isn't going anywhere!
I use Imgur to host my photos and then embed the links onto my posts. I tried using Google Photos but it didn't work out right. Kind of a PITA to upload to Imgur and then copy/paste links, but so is uploading them to this site and dealing with file size issues.
I gave up on Photobucket since the website runs terribly slow with all of the ads, and I refuse to pay money to host pictures.
Thanks for the info. I don't have a file size problem uploading here at all, it's just that I can't write comments below the pictures.
I got all my photos in iCloud already, gonna check to see if I can share from there.
That cool with the subframe connector and rocker, sure makes it safer.
Same with my driver side quarter, been on and off for almost a year now, finally getting the wheelhouse, trunk extension and all the small stuff done.
Wish I could do it at your speed!
Wow, you definitely aren't letting any grass grow under your feet. Great progress and attention to detail! :twothumbsup:
Got the RH quarter panel and jamb pillar hung. Other than the inevitable mess and cleanup dealing with the structural adhesive, there were no surprises.
Seam sealing before panel hanging and undercoat spray
(https://i.imgur.com/SmwxAP2.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/RM3FT4R.jpg)
Undercoating the quarter panel
(https://i.imgur.com/3jufGsL.jpg)
Final epoxy prime coat
(https://i.imgur.com/8MbhmPo.jpg)
Jamb pillar prep
(https://i.imgur.com/ND1CMDd.jpg)
And installed
(https://i.imgur.com/RyEkg6S.jpg)
Lower quarter welds
(https://i.imgur.com/grytyZV.jpg)
Jamb pillar screwed together while the panel bond cures
(https://i.imgur.com/ylxuHKm.jpg)
Clamps galore!
(https://i.imgur.com/LvUW6ux.jpg)
And the results:
Rocker to door bottom gap
(https://i.imgur.com/UOTVT97.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/btWdB8Y.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/oABVJmf.jpg)
Decklid filler is next up. Should be the last of the non bolted panel work I'll be doing to this pig.
Nice job!
One of your pictures shows a corded band file. What brand is it?
Quote from: larry4406 on February 24, 2020, 02:36:58 AM
Nice job!
One of your pictures shows a corded band file. What brand is it?
El cheapo Harbor Freight special. With good belts it works great. The Harbor Freight belts are crap though.
Man, you're really moving along with this project! Wish I was moving at your speed :twothumbsup:
Wrapping up the last of the welded on panel replacements for my car, I got the new decklid filler welded in place. Initially, I was going to attempt repairing the original one, but the price point on the new metal just didn't make sense for the work involved to fix the old. It would have needed multiple patches in compound curved areas. The new one fit quite well, but was a bit too narrow so I added weld bead to each side. Pretty easy other than those damn 1/4 to decklid flange welds!
Cleaned up and threw down the 1st coat of epoxy primer everywhere I could before installing the new panel since some areas are almost inaccessible with a paint gun after it is installed.
(https://i.imgur.com/Kj0VZIg.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/RkYWIWW.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/l91hdg4.jpg)
Next, I seam sealed the trunk with 3M 2 part seam sealer; awesome stuff but pricey!
Why did they seam seal the spare tire and console brackets anyways? Were they concerned that the drunk, high, and blind line stick welders were going to burn through the panels so seam sealing was done as a CYA??? :haha:
(https://i.imgur.com/cBVAllb.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/hqEcH9s.jpg)
Last coat of epoxy primer laid down after installing the panel.
(https://i.imgur.com/lDKv2MS.jpg)
I also opted to weld the seams solid to the quarters, but ground a groove that I can put a thin bead of sealer in to look factory. I figured that will give everything a little extra strength to prevent cracking, and eliminate a rust/leak path.
(https://i.imgur.com/yXrvkqK.jpg%5Bimg%5D%3Cbr%20/%3E%3Cbr%20/%3E%5Bimg%5Dhttps://i.imgur.com/toOtLF9.jpg)
I still suck at painting, but it won't matter since I plan on throwing down a spray on sound deadener and heat barrier. I mainly wanted to ensure I had a good base for adhesion and everything sealed up and as protected as possible. I was thinking about Lizard Skin; any other opinions out there on that or other options? I'm still torn about putting Dynamat or similar on top of the spray on barrier given how awful that stuff was to remove. Seriously, I don't wish that kind of mess on anyone.
I used Raptor liner inside my quarters, gonna use it in the wheelhouses and inside the fenders and possible trunk. It's thick and very hard, but I do hear from people that used it before that it can crack over time if you apply it over seam sealer.
Nice progress as seems to be the usual.
To answer your seam sealer question. I surmise it was to cover the sharp edging of the pieces.
Quote from: YellowThumper on March 03, 2020, 07:41:32 PM
Nice progress as seems to be the usual.
To answer your seam sealer question. I surmise it was to cover the sharp edging of the pieces.
Thank you! Never thought of that! Makes sense; especially in the trunk area.
Rando pictures I forgot to upload from this weekend that I thought were kinda neat. I cut the skin off of the original hood. I'll probably clean it up and hang it on a wall in my garage since it's pretty light now. The structural piece had a lot of rot in addition to broken loose cage nuts for the hood hinges, and the skin has pretty extensive pitting surface rust on the areas concealed by the structural part.
(https://i.imgur.com/hXiKWXY.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/BjNW5OR.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/8dkYYaL.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/sHfNfHJ.jpg)
Wow, I never seen anyone separate those before, how is the skin attached?
Quote from: soundcontrol on March 05, 2020, 06:14:49 AM
Wow, I never seen anyone separate those before, how is the skin attached?
It's actually just like a door skin or the trunk lid skin. The outer perimeter is folded over the frame and spot welded every so often. There are also large blobs of adhesive or sealer between the frame and hood skin to prevent oil canning, I assume.
A little less progress since it's starting to warm up and I have a lot of stuff going on...
The 4 speed hump is in; so it's officially a manual car like I've always wanted. I'll be ordering a 6 speed kit toward the end of the metal work since I know further cutting and modification of the tunnel is coming.
(https://i.imgur.com/vdd8aY6.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/JwCcwhA.jpg)
I also had to cut and modify the offset of the left rear bumper bracket to get the bumper sucked in equally and tightly on both sides. It never fit great before I did any of the metal work either, and I know the car is a lot squarer than before so the bracket was suspect.
(https://i.imgur.com/Sa3D8MN.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/7y39Teu.jpg)
I'm still working on the rear valance to get the gaps perfect. I'm hoping to have that done over the next week.
It's been a minute, so here are some pics of the progress. I stripped the entire front end down to metal and epoxy primed it for temp protection. What a PITA without a sandblaster....
(https://i.imgur.com/1pbOsF7.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/KhaOcH5.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ojrAnE3.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/SDxDl6t.jpg)
I also repaired the roof skin rust near the windshield... Talk about a pucker up moment, but I think it came out pretty good. It'll need a little filler in a couple of spots, but nothing major. It's a vinyl top car anyways. I will NOT be removing the entire length in one chunk when I do the rear window repairs. It was nerve wracking trying to get it all lined up right. I thought it would be easier to patch on the bench, but I don't think I saved any time overall.
(https://i.imgur.com/lhhgybX.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/labVHC7.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Trjzp1n.jpg)
Also patched up the one frame rail that I salvaged. I'll be welding in bolt sleeves for the upper mounting points for the Alterktion subframe from the inside before I weld the last patch in.
Yuck.
(https://i.imgur.com/STF6p4s.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/iGNTnKy.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ttkkOFw.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/6gaps79.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/G4jadax.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/6ZGxoQq.jpg)
For anybody wondering what gauge steel was used for the front rails (I couldn't find anything definitive), it's 14 gauge.
Looking real good ! :worship:
I like the fact you replicated the factory runs in the primer... :rofl:
Wow on the ws/roof patch. Does the trim line up okay? You've more nerve than I do.
Quote from: RUNCHARGER on April 04, 2020, 04:00:15 PM
Wow on the ws/roof patch. Does the trim line up okay? You've more nerve than I do.
Yeah, the trim was the least of my worries. Getting the slope of the roof right was the real challenge.
Quote from: anlauto on April 04, 2020, 02:48:16 PM
Looking real good ! :worship:
I like the fact you replicated the factory runs in the primer... :rofl:
LOL, and this is why I draw the line at painting. I'll do the metal work, but the real art will be handed off to someone else. I have neither the patience nor the talent to do it right myself.
That roof patch is so nice! What tools did you use to make the piece?
Quote from: soundcontrol on April 05, 2020, 03:32:21 AM
That roof patch is so nice! What tools did you use to make the piece?
Most of it is the original piece. I simply patched up several spots of heavily pitted or pinholed metal to fix it up. Just basic hammer/dolly work. Again, I shouldn't have taken the entire piece off. Having access to the backside was nice, but welding that whole thing back on was not fun.
Finished up the last rail patch and sleeved the bolt hole locations for the Alterktion frame. Not really necessary, but I like having the bolt sleeves to prevent the frame rail from being crushed or distorted if the bolts are tightened too much. This anchors them solidly.
Here's how I sleeved the RH rail. I had to patch both sides of this rail, so it was pretty easy. I installed the frame first to drill the holes, then I installed the sleeves and bolts with nuts to clamp them in place. On this side, I welded the inside and the around the perimeter.
(https://i.imgur.com/1eSlHZc.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/GQg6Rcp.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/D6LnRBi.jpg)
Since the LH side was a new rail, I did not have the ability to open it up and weld from the inside at all. Instead, I drilled the bolt holes.
(https://i.imgur.com/m3msQxJ.jpg)
Then I used a step bit to bore the holes out to fit the bolt sleeves perfectly using the bolts to keep everything centered.
(https://i.imgur.com/stYiZ6i.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/MGf09f7.jpg)
Then I welded them to the rail.
(https://i.imgur.com/tSPBStl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/WdrP3bv.jpg)
I used a hole saw to cut out a circle on the other side of the rail for each sleeve, and then welded them to the outside of the rails. Pretty happy with the way it turned out!
Wow...that looks real solid :twothumbsup:
"Pretty happy with the way it turned out!" And SO you should be! good job! :bigthumb:
Nice work! Thats a great mod for those suspensions!
Great work! :bravo: :woohoo:
At a time where most people have tons of time to work on their cars, I feel like I'm the complete opposite. Go figure.... Started on the door skins since that is one of the last things left to do before shipping the car out for final body and paint.
I thought these would be pretty simple, but the bondo master struck again! Once I started hitting the door bottoms with the wire wheel I found more hidden surprises. The driver side door frame required a fair amount of rust repair, and I think the passenger side will be even worse. Grinding through the door skin edge made for very quick removal though.
(https://i.imgur.com/iwVkw99.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/eRELzYF.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/whF27FS.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/VMrfbrq.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/hW8y6jL.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Jc4MhrL.jpg)
Here it is fully stripped; it took a lot of work and time to get all of the hidden areas clean and rust free. I ended up soaking it in Eastwood Fast Etch with plastic over it. I'm hoping to epoxy prime the frame and skin on Monday along with spraying the skin with undercoating.
(https://i.imgur.com/WsePOJq.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/teubSpO.jpg)
I think after that I'm going to reinstall the door with the skin fit on it and fit everything up before I tack anything. I think I might use panel bond on the bottom, but I will weld the sides since I'm pretty sure I'll need to do some welding to get the gaps perfect. The bottom is the area that needs the rust protection the most.
The AMD skin fits the door frame perfectly; I can't wait to see how it fits the car body lines - hopefully just as well!
Not too bad though. I guess the skins are spot welded to the frame?
Thats an area where I would use panel bond for the new skins, seals it up nice for rust.
Quote from: soundcontrol on May 23, 2020, 07:49:17 AM
Not too bad though. I guess the skins are spot welded to the frame?
Thats an area where I would use panel bond for the new skins, seals it up nice for rust.
Yup, the skin flange is folded over and spot welded to the frame. They're tiny spot welds too. I had to patch a number of areas and repair the door frame flange. My rocker gap should be good, so I'll panel bond that bottom flange that is prone to rust.
Very nice work. Should be very satisfying knowing you did it.
Very nice. You are doing it proper justice for sure.
All done with the driver's side. No visible distortion to the outer skin and it seems to fit pretty darn good. I ended up welding the sides and panel bonding the bottom flange. I'll hang it again after it cures and figure out how much welding/grinding I'll need to do to get the gaps 100%.
(https://i.imgur.com/8Tcskca.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/QBB1ajC.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/bULLfNN.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/360njon.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/MsxhLuA.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/zRQ9FpA.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/8rEzIc3.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/MYwkBKJ.jpg)
Very nice.
Wow! Perfect! :clapping:
Nice! Makes me wanna take my doors apart just to get them like that.
Quote from: soundcontrol on June 07, 2020, 02:31:19 PM
Nice! Makes me wanna take my doors apart just to get them like that.
Thanks! Be careful what you wish for; if they're anything like mine were after being stripped down to bare metal you'll be kicking yourself, LOL. Mine required a lot of rust repairs on the bottom of the shell and flange. The AMD skin fit PERFECT though. I have the driver side door and fender on and the work to make the gaps perfect isn't as bad as I thought it would be. Hopefully the passenger side is no different.
It has been a HOT week, but I managed to knock out the passenger door frame repairs and reskinning along with initial mock up of the front end. Most of the panels and trim are fitting up ok so far.
The passenger frame required extensive rust repair; much more than the driver's side. I used the same process as the other to epoxy prime everything, undercoat the skin, and mount the door to the body to hammer the flanges and glue the bottom. I removed it via the pins to finish hammering the hinge side and do the plug welds. I will say, trying to get the pins lined back up while fighting the rollers and spring was a PITA; I don't think I saved any time doing it that way.
(https://i.imgur.com/N0jtkfo.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/fKIBVlT.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/F4vvGnu.jpg)
I'll have to do some minor gap tweaking on the 1/4 side, but not much. The fender side will need minor grinding since I'm a little too close.
(https://i.imgur.com/aQZeZMT.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/LxUHX5G.jpg)
The grille and headlight buckets fit ok; I definitely need to tweak the way the buckets fit the AMD fenders though. I have to enlarge the rear grille mounting slots too; not sure if the issue is the grille or fenders, but I suspect the fenders.
(https://i.imgur.com/XtJjnSo.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/HJ8Elks.jpg)
The front valance needs some work too. I can get everything lined up and fitting EXCEPT for the two mounting points to the inner rails. I suspect the issue is the center mounting to the hood latch support not being right and preventing the back of the valance from rotating upward enough. I'll probably need to modify the AMD valance bracket since the hood latch and hood gaps are spot on now.
I do have an issue with the fender body lines matching the door skins on both sides too, and I'm certain it is the fenders. My 1/4 lines fit great, the rocker gaps are even, and there is no taper on the fender gaps either. I mocked up all of the trim and seals with no drama too. I'm thinking I'll try loosening the fender to rocker nuts and using a jack to force the fender up so the body lines match? If that doesn't work I think I'll be cutting and rewelding the fenders, which I'd really rather not do!
I've got final fitting and leading of the seams to do before I move to the interior to strip/prime/seal/Lizard Skin.
Great work I love it when owners can do a lot of the work them selfs . Most people who have plenty of money and palm out most of the work ,or in a position to pay large sums of dollars for cars ,never really under stand how much work and time that goes into these old cars . But on the other hand some people don't care . You can always see the labor of love for our beloved vehicles ,well done keep up the good work :cheers:
There should be a bracket/mount just in front of the doors on each front fender. You might be able to pull the fenders up there. I think you replaced that part of the pillar. Are the brackets there?
You should add some weight to the doors before final acceptance of your gaps. IIRC it is something like 50 lbs per door.
Hopefully someone can chime in if this is correct.
Get a bag of sand and lay it on door for the check.
Looking great though.
Quote from: JonH on July 06, 2020, 07:00:29 AM
There should be a bracket/mount just in front of the doors on each front fender. You might be able to pull the fenders up there. I think you replaced that part of the pillar. Are the brackets there?
Yup, both are in place. If I understand how those work, it'll change the height of the entire top of the fender too. Right now, they are both level with the hood so changing it would throw the alignment off. I also need to raise the body line of the fender up, that's why I was thinking I could force the bottom of it up more with a jack or blocks while tightening the rocker nuts down.
Quote from: YellowThumper on July 06, 2020, 02:22:54 PM
You should add some weight to the doors before final acceptance of your gaps. IIRC it is something like 50 lbs per door.
Hopefully someone can chime in if this is correct.
Get a bag of sand and lay it on door for the check.
Looking great though.
Since the doors and panels will ultimately come off again for final paint, is that still necessary? Will the weight really affect the door gaps when fully latched, or just when open? I'll definitely do it if it'll make a difference. I thought it was just to compensate for the sag that a fully loaded door would have so you don't bang the door on the strikers or rub anything when opening.
Quote from: Dmod1974 on July 06, 2020, 07:14:12 PM
Quote from: YellowThumper on July 06, 2020, 02:22:54 PM
You should add some weight to the doors before final acceptance of your gaps. IIRC it is something like 50 lbs per door.
Hopefully someone can chime in if this is correct.
Get a bag of sand and lay it on door for the check.
Looking great though.
Since the doors and panels will ultimately come off again for final paint, is that still necessary? Will the weight really affect the door gaps when fully latched, or just when open? I'll definitely do it if it'll make a difference. I thought it was just to compensate for the sag that a fully loaded door would have so you don't bang the door on the strikers or rub anything when opening.
Never repaired as extensive as you but have heard numerous times it does.
Maybe
@Cuda Cody (https://forum.e-bodies.org/mlist/cuda-cody_1) can chime in for guidance.
Good luck.
Yes, you need to add weight during the body work and alignment stages. It will make a huge different in the final results regardless if you paint them off the car.
Put the weight in the doors now and see what I'm talking about. You can use chain and spread it along the bottom or any other weight you have. Don't put it all at one end, spread it evenly at the bottom of the inside of the door.
Ok then, I'll get 50lbs of chain and recheck everything before worrying about the fender body line alignment. Thanks!
After entirely too much time, I'm wrapping up the last bit of metal restoration on this car! No more rust for hopefully a very long time! After spending entirely too much time trying to patch and form compound bends near the rear window, fix a partially sagged roof near the right upper area of the rear window from somebody probably sitting on it, and trying to get dynamat extreme off I decided to just replace the damn roof skin like I probably should have done in the first place.
I ordered a new roof skin from Jegs (Goldstar brand) and it honestly fits like a glove for the most part. The only areas that needed work were the very front corners that mate up with the A pillars. This was seriously one of the easiest panels to fit on the car.
I got all of the roof frame rust stripped and repaired and everything primed. I should have it installed later this week. After that, trans tunnel and crossmember mods for the T56 Magnum before I epoxy prime and Lizard skin sound/thermal barrier the interior. Then she's getting shipped out to get painted and final fitted. Finally moving onto some fun stuff!
(https://i.imgur.com/Ij2D1XY.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/0IaVQMq.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/hSlgBbL.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/kGfdggu.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/tNw7BJh.jpg)
Some serious progress there, and more importantly , another one saved :worship: :twothumbsup:
Great update there.
Was wondering because you had previously set the update frequency.
Must be great feeling to be so much closer.
Nice work! :clapping:
Quote from: anlauto on August 30, 2020, 07:43:04 PM
Some serious progress there, and more importantly , another one saved :worship: :twothumbsup:
More or less, LOL. Lot's and lot's of new metal on it. But, it has sentimental value so it's worth it to me.
Quote from: YellowThumper on August 31, 2020, 09:05:04 AM
Great update there.
Was wondering because you had previously set the update frequency.
Must be great feeling to be so much closer.
I've been crazy busy with work, that and trying to enjoy the solid 3 weeks of decent weather we receive in Soviet Republic of Illinois each summer. I've been busting butt lately to get it ready to hand off to a real body guy to finish in fall. There were a few times I was so rushed that I simply forgot to take pictures to post. I just shipped parts to SF Resto today. Shipping to Canada was ridiculously expensive. Hopefully I get the latches and whatnot back before it gets really cold so I can drop the car off to get done.
Quote from: soundcontrol on August 31, 2020, 02:56:54 PM
Nice work! :clapping:
Thank you!
Busy, busy day today. Got the freshly primed skin welded up, ground down, and epoxy primed (poorly as usual) to prevent flash rusting. Got all of the trim holes drilled too. I used seam sealer between the two crossmembers, of course I'm really happy with the way this piece fit. It fits better than the original ever did, especially at the sail panel seams. Anybody needing to do extensive roof repair should seriously consider giving this a try.
(https://i.imgur.com/xKBq97k.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/LqWtTDU.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/zASPP2E.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/3Empz0P.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/7UGOF5Q.jpg)
hat's off to you... doing some really nice work there... and lots of it!
:twothumbsup:
Nice! Good to know that's a good piece.
Officially done with the metal resto and on to fun things! I sent out a bunch of stuff to SF Restoration to get restored. In the meantime, I finally ordered and just received my Tremec T56 Magnum kit from SST. I'm really impressed with the completeness, quality, and engineering of this kit. Today I mocked up the pedal set and clutch master cylinder and stiffener to drill holes and check fit. I'll be doing the crossmember mods this next week.
(https://i.imgur.com/5OoA4gs.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/HAf8wP4.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/69LK06f.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/0mHF3ep.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/MnzRf1j.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/YYoSPXa.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/y3qToMO.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/SYJad8L.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/GA6mRVr.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/zCFwnoy.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/9FkeVqy.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/FsLZjOM.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/6q9B9kg.jpg)
That looks great.
Particularly like the clutch cylinder setup.
Quote from: YellowThumper on September 28, 2020, 08:29:44 PM
That looks great.
Particularly like the clutch cylinder setup.
Yeah, I priced out and considered engineering my own setup, but at best, I would have only saved a couple hundred dollars that I most certainly would have blown (and then some) doing sub par fabrication and working through issues. Plus, it comes with a 3 year warranty. I'm cheap and prefer doing things myself, but this is one area it just didn't make sense.
Just to be anal.... :rofl:
This clip is on the wrong side of the clutch/brake pedal assembly. You may have difficulty getting the flasher unit to reach over there.
In that hole you're using there should be a black plastic clip to retain the speedometer cable :alan2cents:
Quote from: anlauto on September 29, 2020, 06:09:37 PM
Just to be anal.... :rofl:
This clip is on the wrong side of the clutch/brake pedal assembly. You may have difficulty getting the flasher unit to reach over there.
In that hole you're using there should be a black plastic clip to retain the speedometer cable :alan2cents:
Good call! I'll move it over.
Didn't have as much time as I wanted to work on it this weekend, but I did get the trans crossmember mods completed. Overall, pretty easy and uneventful. The new crossmember has both the early and late E-Body crossmember bolt pattern. After removing the arch piece, there are two neat little caps that get welded in to box the crossmember and also provide reinforcement tubes to prevent crushing the crossmember when the bolts are torqued.
(https://i.imgur.com/v0Mrupa.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/BwydjRR.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/mc6dVZZ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/EFufrYk.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/PVueS0m.jpg)
I'm hoping to at least get started on the tunnel mods next weekend. SST includes templates to tell you exactly where to cut and how to shape the tunnel.
Interesting....does it not have a piece to loop over the new transmission to connect the two halves back together ? :huh:
Quote from: anlauto on October 04, 2020, 08:30:43 AM
Interesting....does it not have a piece to loop over the new transmission to connect the two halves back together ? :huh:
The crossmember is a structural piece in this kit. It's reinforced, boxed, and gusseted and much heavier gauge steel than the factory one. Once bolted in and torqued, it's solid. Not that it matters for me since I'm running an Alterktion setup, but this is strong enough to still allow the use of torsion bars.
I also have subframe connectors, torque boxes and all of the other US CARTOOL pieces so I have zero concerns about loss of strength.
That makes sense, especially if there's no torsion bars being used :bigthumb:
Quote from: anlauto on October 04, 2020, 09:18:02 AM
That makes sense, especially if there's no torsion bars being used :bigthumb:
Yeah, I honestly wouldn't hesitate to use this setup even with torsion bars after seeing just how thin and subject to deflection that the factory sheet metal is. The SST crossmember is without a doubt substantially stronger than the flimsy torsion bar crossmember, even with it being "boxed" by the maybe 18ga floor pan above it via spot welds. It's the strongest part in the system.
Picked up a junk 5.7 that I stripped and used the bare block to fab and locate the mounts as well as aid in lining the trans up for tunnel mods.
(https://i.imgur.com/CXfYGP4.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/TVvzpvI.jpg)
I also built a drivetrain cart to make my life easier
(https://i.imgur.com/tBhn9p6.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/FycXYb7.jpg)
I installed the rear axle and wheels since I didn't feel comfortable raising the front end on just the two body casters.
(https://i.imgur.com/oWkNIMP.jpg)
Driveline set in place, and I definitely need to cut and reset the mount brackets. Annoying, but not the end of the world or unexpected. The tailshaft isn't quite centered with the crossmember so it isn't as square as I could measure with just the block and subframe. The oil pan to rack clearance isn't enough and my driveline angle isn't either. Once I raise the engine a hair and reset the mounts both will be corrected.
(https://i.imgur.com/M8r2cch.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/CfFGnAa.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/9Rbyekf.jpg)
Access to the bellhousing bolts for both the engine and trans side is good. The only other unknown is how much clearance I'll have from the rear of the blower to the firewall. Won't know that until I have the engine on hand, unfortunately.
I reset the engine mount brackets and finished up the tunnel mods. Came out decent and the center console still fits. Also took my measurements and got my driveshaft delivered from SST. Fits perfect and my working angles turned out great. This aluminum shaft is substantially lighter than steel!
(https://i.imgur.com/7reJCOg.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/N1VnuXK.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/d4LhbmB.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/iEvqteC.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/1UKOUON.jpg)
I stripped the interior panels down and laid down some epoxy primer to finish sealing this shell up. Definitely NOT going to miss grinding/sanding and looking like a coal miner afterward.
(https://i.imgur.com/8M3RyWh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/VGmdRU6.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/u1xWnW2.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/tgvP7OR.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/zTJnQmo.jpg)
Tomorrow I'm going to seam seal everything and lay down another coat of epoxy primer in advance of spraying the Lizard skin sound and thermal barriers.
Comin' along and lookin' good! You'll miss the welding and grinding, won't you? ;)
Lot of progress there. Gonna be so much more drivable. Cool the center console still fits as well.
I'm on vacation this week and have been pretty motivated to wrap this pig up! Seam sealed the interior. Tried to make it look factory original sloppy. I used 3M heavy bodied 2 part seam sealer. Expensive, but really awesome stuff.
(https://i.imgur.com/CvlA9lC.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/QF9utje.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/aZlZMlb.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/dd02fI4.jpg)
I laid down another coat of epoxy primer after sealing and sprayed the Lizard Skin sound control coating too. It actually matches the Eastwood gray primer pretty darn close! It made it tricky to tell if I was getting adequate coverage or not when spraying.
(https://i.imgur.com/t4UjY12.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/knfbmRM.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Yiufhmz.jpg)
I have to wait 24-36 hours before spraying the ceramic thermal insulation, so I decided to install all of the trim in preparation for dropping it off at a body shop.
(https://i.imgur.com/OQ26iKL.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/K7AutCa.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/zqSWevk.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/sd7kZCy.jpg)
This is the closest it's come to looking like a real car in 2 years. Once I get my latches back from SF Resto I'll hopefully be able to get this in somewhere for final body and paint. I'm basically done for a while minus restoring the interior trim and dash.
Great progress! Let's hope the lads at the body shop take appropriate care of all that nice trim, eh? You should be able to load your anvil collection into the trunk without scratching anything as well! :bigthumb:
Quote from: jimynick on November 25, 2020, 08:44:56 PM
Great progress! Let's hope the lads at the body shop take appropriate care of all that nice trim, eh? You should be able to load your anvil collection into the trunk without scratching anything as well! :bigthumb:
They better! Some of the trim is original and has minor dents or bends to work out, and I don't think they can do that without having a car to fit it up to. The repro trim doesn't fit great either and needs some tweaking in areas. I'm not messing with it myself, I WILL do more harm than good on that thin stuff.
Congratulations...Man..you did some AWESUM WORK !!
I'm another with a 74 Challenger that i personally restored, tho from the doors forward it was in great shape... Did just patches on the 1/4's and rockers.. Replaced Trunk floor and rear valance work... No where near what you did. I also did the Priming and block sanding then took it to a professional painter to have shot in Plum Crazy.
I'm curious....have you saved all of the receipts so that you know how much out of pocket you will have into the car when finished, and anywhere near the number of hours you put into it??
When you finally get to drive it...show us a video !!!!
Ha, ha: I bet I'm not the only one that has started logs with hours on a car and they added up so fast I gave up on keeping track of it.
Quote from: RUNCHARGER on November 26, 2020, 07:23:01 AM
Ha, ha: I bet I'm not the only one that has started logs with hours on a car and they added up so fast I gave up on keeping track of it.
You are not alone on not tracking the hours. Unfortunately, I have way too much detail and a fairly accurate total on what I've spent.
But back to our show.... beautiful work on the car dmod!
Quote from: chargerdon on November 26, 2020, 06:51:16 AM
Congratulations...Man..you did some AWESUM WORK !!
I'm another with a 74 Challenger that i personally restored, tho from the doors forward it was in great shape... Did just patches on the 1/4's and rockers.. Replaced Trunk floor and rear valance work... No where near what you did. I also did the Priming and block sanding then took it to a professional painter to have shot in Plum Crazy.
I'm curious....have you saved all of the receipts so that you know how much out of pocket you will have into the car when finished, and anywhere near the number of hours you put into it??
When you finally get to drive it...show us a video !!!!
I do have receipts and track how much I've spent on it. I don't have hours logged though, and I cannot even begin to estimate how much time I've spent on it. It's still saved me a small fortune though since my time is a helluva lot cheaper than a professional body shop.
It has been a long time coming since I watched your YouTube videos on this car. Very nice job. Have you decided on the color? It was originally darker shade of red if I remember correct?
Not sure I would have done the Lizard Skin in the trunk, it always looks so nice with just clean paint, HOWEVER...I get what you're going for, and hopefully it will provide a ton of sound proofing :bigthumb:
Quote from: 7212Mopar on November 26, 2020, 08:43:14 AM
It has been a long time coming since I watched your YouTube videos on this car. Very nice job. Have you decided on the color? It was originally darker shade of red if I remember correct?
Thanks! I think you might have me mistaken for someone else; I've never done any YouTube videos. My car was originally a bright red, but I think I'm going with Go Green when I get it painted.
Quote from: anlauto on November 26, 2020, 09:32:07 AM
Not sure I would have done the Lizard Skin in the trunk, it always looks so nice with just clean paint, HOWEVER...I get what you're going for, and hopefully it will provide a ton of sound proofing :bigthumb:
Yeah, I went back and forth on it too. It's going to get upholstered and have a battery box back there since their won't be room up front with the Hellcat engine anyways, so that pretty floor paint wouldn't be visible.
Quote from: Dmod1974 on November 26, 2020, 09:36:32 AM
Quote from: 7212Mopar on November 26, 2020, 08:43:14 AM
It has been a long time coming since I watched your YouTube videos on this car. Very nice job. Have you decided on the color? It was originally darker shade of red if I remember correct?
Thanks! I think you might have me mistaken for someone else; I've never done any YouTube videos. My car was originally a bright red, but I think I'm going with Go Green when I get it painted.
I think that is daboots Challenger resto on YT, This one:
https://forum.e-bodies.org/your-restoration-project-roseville-moparts/10/74-challenger-canadian-restoration/13673/
I think you guys are right. My memory sucks these days. Time to see my doctor. May be he can do a restoration on me.
Wow ! That thread was intense ! I feel like I just took a test lolz
Really bad ass! Love the progress
My new 4 core Frostbite radiator for a Gen 3 hemi came in. I have to say, I'm pretty impressed! The piece is much higher quality than the Champion radiator it is replacing, and it wasn't much more money. The welds and finish are great, and it fits like a darn glove. I didn't have any issues fitting it to my core support, and there is plenty of clearance between the bottom and lower radiator support channel. It also has nutserts to make it easy to mount an electric fan.
(https://i.imgur.com/QgyqWcA.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/XTtiIaG.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/VDxZFVZ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/kdmQhiy.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/iWy6WZe.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/sNot6mp.jpg)
I fitted up my Lincoln MKIV fan to the new radiator too. I had to fab up new brackets which will get powder coated eventually, and it came out pretty good. I offset it to the driver side to hopefully give me more clearance to the front of the engine. The cooling package is a little thicker than the old one; I have no idea how much the Gen 3 hemi dressed sticks out so fingers crossed it'll fit. This fan move a ton of air and there are very few aftermarket pieces that come anywhere near it. It fits pretty well though; almost looks like it came that way stock!
(https://i.imgur.com/8dXKmYM.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/bMaJyEh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/tOO105y.jpg)
I also received my American Autowire harness. With the full teardown and completely different powertrain setup it made more sense to rewire the car than hack up the old Painless harness yet again. This is a really nice piece! I like how it uses the stock bulkhead connector opening and the fuse panel mounts right to the backside of it. Much better than the crappy Painless universal bracket that was in the way of everything.
All of the wires and connectors are extremely high quality, and it includes all circuits including the grounds unlike the old one. Another cool feature is the fact that it uses OE style connectors throughout most of it, and it includes both connector shells and pins for them all as well! It has a built in relay center for the headlights, fog lights, and horn to take the load off of the switches as well as a bunch of circuits for modern features like electric VSS, A/C, fuel pump, etc. so it blends new and old. This is why I settled on this one vs. the many other options out there.
The engine bay side of the bulkhead connector uses modern bolt on style interlocking connector bodies for a very secure connection and easy install/removal. I can't wait to wire this thing up!
(https://i.imgur.com/pjeGvoI.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/GfHPrT1.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/p3cZ6jU.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/xJCX2fc.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/uEDFvII.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/EXWq4Gg.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/AOPLkCz.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/K0TorTg.jpg)
I see what you mean. That really is a nice wire harness. :twothumbsup:
Quote from: Dmod1974 on December 05, 2020, 05:09:35 PM
My new 4 core Frostbite radiator for a Gen 3 hemi came in. I have to say, I'm pretty impressed! The piece is much higher quality than the Champion radiator it is replacing, and it wasn't much more money. The welds and finish are great, and it fits like a darn glove. I didn't have any issues fitting it to my core support, and there is plenty of clearance between the bottom and lower radiator support channel. It also has nutserts to make it easy to mount an electric fan.
I just received this Frostbite radiator this week as well. I hope it preforms as well as it looks ! :fingerscrossed:
I received all of my restored components from SF Restorations. Amazing work and I'm glad I went this route rather than new resto parts or running them as is. After 45 years the latches and other moving parts needed it badly.
(https://i.imgur.com/Q8DcGTA.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/wztvxVS.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/AIKIOt7.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/s7srA1P.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/JR9ZUKv.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/FD9uRcR.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/t3MRgYZ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/2c076bo.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/BLKv5rZ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/NDMbrWF.jpg)
While waiting for the restored components to come back from Canada, I decided to do more fab work while the car is still unpainted. I really don't want to put a bunch of the inevitable scratches in it after it's painted!
I fabbed up a mounting bracket for the factory Hellcat oil cooler. It's made of 12ga steel and has 3 mounting points using factory holes no less. I angled it to clear the A/C parts and still receive good airflow through the valance. The oil cooler drain plug and oil lines are accessible, though the one on the passenger side was tight! I had to use a hose end with a direct fit ORB fitting end since a conventional one and ORB adapter would not fit. Yes, I plan on painting the oil cooler and fittings black.
(https://i.imgur.com/KjwyOlx.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/FiC65Hj.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/QQV6aN7.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/iZ9zAu0.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/4cR0aLp.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/sznvMZP.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/fluFTCj.jpg)
I'm using a Hamburger's CNC machined oil filter header and oil filter bypass adapter as well as factory sized -12AN braided nylon lines. The oil filter is much farther forward of the wheel in case the angles look deceiving. Oil changes will be a breeze!
(https://i.imgur.com/46zhlsA.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/vSCFFFb.jpg)
I made a bracket to adapt the factory low temp cooling circuit expansion tank to the driver's side.
(https://i.imgur.com/6bAbMkU.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/9Jdz7Ix.jpg)
The factory Hellcate low temp coolant pump is a beast! This thing is quite big and at least 12lbs. Nothing else flows like it though or I wouldn't have spent the $700 it costs. The factory PCM can natively control it with the engine off and run diagnostics, so that's another bonus.
(https://i.imgur.com/8TzXEVP.jpg)
Initially I wanted to mount it to the battery tray, but it took up too much space and I wouldn't have room for the air filter. Instead, I fabbed up a bracket to mount it in the driver side fender well area utilizing 2 existing holes in the headlight bucket and one that I added in the inner fender. I might run a Killer Chiller eventually, and should have plenty of room in this area to mount and plumb it if need be.
(https://i.imgur.com/whWox39.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Mo6ovuI.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/LAGB1Rh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/PdwIIpZ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/OjxLzUv.jpg)
Everything will be sent out to get powder coated along with a ton of other parts that I need done.
I decided to rethink the aftermarket power lock setup. Originally, I had it cobbled together with the rod clamps and actuators screwed to the door shell per the kit instructions. It looked crappy and wasn't the cleanest install.
This time around I fabbed up two flag brackets to direct mount the actuators directly under the door latches with 2 large sheetmetal screws going into the door beam.
I cut and bent the lock rods and was able to find door clips that fit into an extra and unused hole on the door lock lever. I used Honda 3.5mm rod and 6mm hole door lock clips for this.
It now has much smoother, cleaner, and lower friction actuation. None of it is in the way of the window, track, and regulator anymore. I double checked the range of motion to make sure the central lock actuators will send a signal in both directions. Since this is a central locking system, they need to both toggle correctly or they won't work right. This set up also eliminates the need for external switches, which I am NOT going to cut up my new door panels to mount GM switches in! If either lever or lock cylinder is turned (or keyless entry used) it'll lock or unlock the other side as well.
Right angle drilling the door beam holes was a little tough, but doable.
(https://i.imgur.com/EPQPJ1b.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/dlGgknO.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/OfOMYzH.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/YAT0Gdw.jpg)
Last thing to do before I send it out for paint is modify my kickpanels to fit 6.5" speakers. I'm halfway through and hope to wrap that up this weekend.
Wow! Great progress in the never ending minutiae of details.
Thanks for posting.
An amazing LABOR OF LOVE you're doing!!!
Quote from: YellowThumper on January 14, 2021, 08:06:20 PM
Wow! Great progress in the never ending minutiae of details.
Thanks for posting.
Yeah, the to do list never ends.... I still have to go through and restore the dash and trim while it's off getting finished/painted. Then reassembly, wiring, engine swap, seats. LOL, it's going to be really weird to not have a billion things left to work on one day!
Wow..you got a lot going on there... :rubeyes: :twothumbsup:
I started restoring the interior parts that won't be getting replaced, which considering most of it is 45 year old plastic, is not too much.... :haha:
I installed 6.5" Polk DB6502 component speakers in my kick panels. They just barely clear the hinge pillar, hinge bolts, and on the driver's side - the parking brake. I plan on mounting the tweeters in the factory side 3 speaker dash openings under factory grilles (still looking for a pair...) I bought a dual 3.5" speaker adapter plate from Jerry Landes for the center location. I painted it black so it won't be visible under the grille. I'll be ordering a new dash pad to undo my 18yr old me hack work. I want everything with the dash to mostly appear stock other than the gauges.
(https://i.imgur.com/Gvp7e5G.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/VXcllJn.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/EdGTXwV.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/UYkIO8h.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/locP7qf.jpg)
I painted all of the plastic pieces with a spray gun and SEM Landau black. Overall, I think it came out pretty nice. It doesn't look like it was painted at all. Cleaning off old rattle can paint from some of the parts I previously "restored" when I was younger was without a doubt the biggest PITA of the whole process.
(https://i.imgur.com/xwSVlhi.jpg)
The sun visors came out great too. The crimped on end pieces were badly pitted after rust removal, so I spray painted them with chrome paint after sanding. Eastwood Silver Cad paint ended up being a perfect match for the pivots.
(https://i.imgur.com/lKI2f4t.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/vFt7YLw.jpg)
The dash light bar was pretty straightforward. Again, removing the old paint was the hardest part. After stripping I hand painted the reflector housings with White Testor's paint and matte cleared them. I pop riveted them in; I can't justify a tubular rivet gun on a restomod build like this.
(https://i.imgur.com/8aqgv4b.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/48tVuTI.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/h2fDJEo.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/F1yomVI.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/3pqxstW.jpg)
Driver's side fresh air vent next. Separating the rubber seal from the metal door was NOT easy. It was rusted pretty bad, but under the rubber seal it had some kind of anodized or gold plating so I ran with that. Stainless steel paint, Eastwood Gold Cad, and then matte clear. Matte clear was used over the "bar" part of the pivot and the stop bracket. If it's wrong, oh well. I won't see it and it looks a heck of a lot better than it did before. The entire thing was rusted and rattle canned over the rust. I used a bunch of clamps and 3M super glue to attach the seal to the metal flap again.
(https://i.imgur.com/1TELJBU.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/xy7wjkD.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/FAVPZ9i.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ecwYapO.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/LcOnPl7.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/LcOnPl7.jpg)
I'm going to paint the new door and quarter interior panels in Landau black as well so it all matches, and I'm restoring the door cups and door inserts. I'm also sourcing factory A/C vents. I figure if I'm going to order a new dash, this is the time to make that switch and ditch the Vintage Air under dash vent bar. So far, I have a RH vent. The search continues for a good center vent assembly.
Plenty of good "busy" work there.
Curious if you have your interior headliner yet.
Mine is horrible and will be replacing soon.
Been awhile but have looked and could never find one that looks the same.
As mine is also a 74 I have wondered if it is different from other years.
I received my new steel core dash from ABC a week or so back. I opted to go with an A/C dash pad this time around to get away from the underhung Vintage Air vent bar. Factory vents were $$$$, as were the side speaker grilles. I also rebuilt all of my switches and painted all of my rallye gauge parts.
Overall, it's a nice piece. MUCH better than the old ABS POS that I bought 15+ years ago. I had to do some minor trimming to get the vents to fit, and the holes for the center speaker grille were shifted forward about 1/8" or so (core shift during refoaming?). Not a big deal since I simply drilled new holes. My plastic speaker grille is warped (shocker), so I'll be heating that and trying to straighten it before buying a new one. I'm not setting the VIN plate in until I get the dash pad mounted on the dash frame that I'm still waiting to get back from powdercoating. I want to be 100% sure it is ok before setting those $50 rivets!
(https://i.imgur.com/KEly2wn.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/uYds84i.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/9FDUtCP.jpg)
I think I previously showed my dual 3.5" speaker plate for the center grille. I painted it and installed it along with fabbing some tweeter brackets to mount speakers under the side speaker grilles. These are paired with 6.5" components that will be mounted in the kick panels.
(https://i.imgur.com/ZACaV8O.jpg)
Conceals pretty well after paint!
(https://i.imgur.com/sCg3dVS.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/hvGGxf1.jpg)
Crude, but effective brackets.
(https://i.imgur.com/D6nBiEZ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/X1lgIwr.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/shP6bKj.jpg)
Blends in pretty well, especially once it's in the car!
(https://i.imgur.com/2XCTG6M.jpg)
And finally, the rebuilt switches. These are super easy to do so I wouldn't hesitate DIYer's trying. My defog switch didn't have continuity on high, but it was easily fixed after disassembling and cleaning off this weird goo or hardened grease that got onto the contact, and then reassembling. I plan on using this to toggle a Kill Chiller, line lock, or something similar. I can toggle two functions one at a time with this switch so I'm still mulling over what I want to use it for.
(https://i.imgur.com/AkeBoDX.jpg)
I'll be assembling the rallye bezel and faceplates this week hopefully. Anybody aware of any how to's with pics for this? It's such a funky setup with the backing plates and I don't want to mess it up or not have them line up when installed.
Also, for those using the Dakota Digital gauges, how to the indicator lenses attach? Are you guys just gluing them to the black plastic bezel? It doesn't look like it uses the light tubes?
Looks great with all you are finishing.
Sorry no help on the Dakota question.
Wow, your dash conversion came out great. I know what you mean about the Vin plate $50 rivets. I ended up doing my twice. :pullinghair: Those speakers should sound really nice and you'd never know they were in there looking at the dash. Nice job! :yes: I just put new factory reproductions in mine. They're adequate since I don't listen to the factory AM 8-track that often anyway. What sound system are you going to run?
Quote from: usraptor on April 14, 2021, 01:14:38 PM
Wow, your dash conversion came out great. I know what you mean about the Vin plate $50 rivets. I ended up doing my twice. :pullinghair: Those speakers should sound really nice and you'd never know they were in there looking at the dash. Nice job! :yes: I just put new factory reproductions in mine. They're adequate since I don't listen to the factory AM 8-track that often anyway. What sound system are you going to run?
I have a 100x4 Rockford Fosgate 4 channel amp. The kick panel speakers are 6.5" Polk DB6502 components, center speaker "mid" range speakers are JL Audio 3.5" coax C2-350X units, and rears are Infinity Kappa 6x9's. Not sure if I'm going to stick with my Alpine head unit or custom mount a tablet or something with Android Auto in a center console extension to the dash.
I'm still trying to find a body shop to finish my shell that won't charge me 2x what it should cost or isn't booked a year or more out, so I decided to mock up all of my wiring harnesses and engine controls while it's still in primer. Better than risking scratching/scuffing fresh paint I suppose...
I fabbed up some door harnesses for the power lock and front windows. I couldn't find original door jamb grommets, but I was able to find close enough substitutes. I'm using braided nylon loom for all of the interior harnesses. It's much lighter, slimmer, quieter, and flexible than traditional convolute tubing, and looks a lot better too. I accidentally bought the non-split variety which requires a lot more thought and planning since you can't install it for the most part on terminated ends, but it looks a lot better IMO.
(https://i.imgur.com/ONv8DQC.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/tpg8pGi.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/hFFgRBX.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/4X4kYGf.jpg)
I'm using factory window switches instead of GM crap, and finding connectors to splice into my harness was a real bear. To that end, I build a power window relay sub harness to take all of the load off of the switches/connectors, and deliver better motor performance.
(https://i.imgur.com/s2jmVhR.jpg)
I ran a 10 gauge, 1 pin connector from the power window circuit of my American Autowire dash harness to feed the low current switches, and high current relays.
(https://i.imgur.com/0FQk8fa.jpg)
A 6 pin Metripack 280 splice pack then sends power to each corner. I lead feeds it, and a buss bar under the connector cap connects all of the others in a clean package that will be tucked behind the kick panel. I matched the factory circuit colors to make it easier to diagnose later on.
(https://i.imgur.com/BqgJyhP.jpg)
Rear corner examples since the fronts are hidden behind the dash:
(https://i.imgur.com/EUkR9lM.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/chpWP2X.jpg)
Rear body harness: I try to blend modern tech with stockish routing where possible.
(https://i.imgur.com/sqnboxB.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/wf5ZPtg.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/g6uYpOb.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/u9FY9Lt.jpg)
I'll be running front and rear cameras; the last thing I need after I'm done is to back into something or scrape my lower valance on a parking block! The rear will be bolted with the license plate and will blend in with a black frame.
(https://i.imgur.com/yYb2Dpb.jpg)
The front is a threaded mount model with the wires passing through a hollow stud. Coincidentally, I was able to mount this dead center under the front bumper in an existing hole!
(https://i.imgur.com/Wm5LZPY.jpg)
I installed a remote battery disconnect now to avoid getting bounced off the track later on. I'll keep the switch permanently mounted since it'll be easy to throw when I'm storing the car, and for track days I modified a spare reverse light housing for the handle to pass through and will pop that in along with the handle rod when needed.
(https://i.imgur.com/mjQp3Nj.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Vi0M15Z.jpg)
For the underhood wiring, I used a product called Z-Coil on Amazon. It's more of a synthetic woven "cloth" like split braided loom that looks more classic car appropriate, and I think it'll hold up better than the lighter loom used in the interior.
I made 2 Bussman RTMR fuse/relay blocks for the headlights, fan control, and all of the other battery and ignition powered devices not directly controlled by the Mopar Performance PDC. These are sealed and used Metripack 280 terminals, mini fuses, and micro relays. Cool stuff, and easily accessible with the battery tray removed.
(https://i.imgur.com/5FONPKN.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ldEHoj3.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/1XdeDAY.jpg)
ECM, FPDM relay, and the American Autowire fuse holders mounted:
(https://i.imgur.com/Sz87THp.jpg)
Mopar Performance PDC and fan solenoids mounted up. Yes, I run continuous duty solenoids for my Lincoln MK4 fan since most relays can't handle the current this thing draws. These are rated for continuous 100A duty.
(https://i.imgur.com/IiVN1qp.jpg)
FPDM - Fuel Pump Driver Module. This part is only used in the Hellcrate setup for some reason. It controls the fuel pump with PWM so no return line or external regulator is needed. I wasn't done routing the output wiring in this pic. I had to extend the leads and shield wire to reach the fuel tank.
(https://i.imgur.com/fcRt55W.jpg)
Did you buy a power window kit ? If so, which one and did it come with everything you needed ( other than the original switches)
Now the fun stuff; plumbing up the supercharger cooling system! I bought the recommended 2017 Challenger supercharger surge tank and fabbed a bracket for it. I then used two 3/4" Dorman tees to plumb into the surge tank. The main line is 3/4" hose, but the surge tank hoses are only 1/2". Luckily the Dorman tees can accept 5/8" or 3/4" by trimming the ends. I spent a lot of time in Gates' molded hose catalog to find 5/8" to 1/2" transition hoses that would work here.
Here's a parts list to save others some time:
- (2) Dorman 84757 heater tee's
- (2) Gates 18486 hoses
Cut and trim as needed to fit. I used heat shrink band clamps since they're cleaner looking and I don't want a million clamps to worry about coming loose.
(https://i.imgur.com/3KSjcC5.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/adIXQO4.jpg)
The LTR outlet hose is just bulk 3/4" hose, luckily.
(https://i.imgur.com/4499oAc.jpg)
For the supercharger coolant pump inlet and outlet, I used two Gates 12018 molded hoses and one Dorman 3/4" hose connector. One end of the hose is 1", and the other is 3/4". The Hellcrate manual says to use 1" hose for numerous components, but that's not entirely correct. Only the SC pump fittings are 1", and the factory Hellcats transition to 3/4" immediately before and after the pump which is used everywhere else (LTR's, SC heat exchangers, etc.)
The pump inlet mates up perfectly with the tee and tucks in nice and tight under the battery tray ledge so tire rub is a non issue. The outlet fits under the headlight bucket and over the bumper bracket perfectly once cut in half, rotated, and splice together.
(https://i.imgur.com/OT7p8Ai.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/wz7oArk.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/nxdiYZE.jpg)
I'm waiting on an LTR to arrive that isn't custom and pretty cheap. Once I have that figured out I'll post some more pics.
Quote from: anlauto on July 10, 2021, 05:09:35 PM
Did you buy a power window kit ? If so, which one and did it come with everything you needed ( other than the original switches)
Nope, not yet. None of them are complete and they all use GM switches. No way was I going to cut up brand new interior panels to mount those! I have A1 Electric fronts, and if I can't figure out a way to make the rears power I'll probably just buy the Nu-Relics kit without switches.
Okay thanks...I was looking at the Nu-relics kit...
Freshly rebuilt steering column. The powder coater did an excellent job!
(https://i.imgur.com/UcOLNPh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/1UZ2yot.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/rEEtfXx.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/knTfjtm.jpg)
I also wired up and tested my Dapper Lighting 575 LED headlights with HDR switchback halos.
Quote from: Dmod1974 on July 17, 2021, 10:25:00 AM
I also wired up and tested my Dapper Lighting 575 LED headlights with HDR switchback halos.
Your videos are private on YT, if you make them "Unlisted" we can see them.
Quote from: soundcontrol on July 18, 2021, 07:01:09 AM
Quote from: Dmod1974 on July 17, 2021, 10:25:00 AM
I also wired up and tested my Dapper Lighting 575 LED headlights with HDR switchback halos.
Your videos are private on YT, if you make them "Unlisted" we can see them.
Try now, I just posted them as unlisted.
Quote from: Dmod1974 on July 18, 2021, 07:09:27 AM
Try now, I just posted them as unlisted.
Works now, nice lights! Need those, just checked the cost, :o, have to wait...
Quote from: soundcontrol on July 18, 2021, 08:35:06 AM
Quote from: Dmod1974 on July 18, 2021, 07:09:27 AM
Try now, I just posted them as unlisted.
Works now, nice lights! Need those, just checked the cost, :o, have to wait...
Yeah, they are definitely not cheap, but arguably the best on the market. There are not many options for 5.75" headlights that don't revolve around H4 conversion bulbs or look really ugly and tunerish. 7" is another story since it was a popular HD truck bulb size.
I have a buddy who installed these in his 2nd gen Camaro and that turned me onto them. They have actual projectors built in to get the proper cutoff and eliminate glare, plus I have the "OE" glass lookalike option so they are curved and have the grid lines around the projector instead of being flat and smooth. These also have a 5 year warranty and everything in the kit was very high quality.
Plenty of solid updates.
Thank you.
Good luck on your painting saga.
Mike.
What brand steering wheel is that? Custom?
Quote from: usraptor on July 30, 2021, 04:28:10 PM
What brand steering wheel is that? Custom?
Nope, just an out of the box Grant #246 steering wheel.
Just finished up restoring and assembling my dash. The powder coat work came out great! I also got everything wired up and ready for testing later next week. Once I make sure everything works, I'll program the Dakota Digital gauges with the Bluetooth phone app. There's a lot going on behind the dash, but it's loomed and organized in a way where it really only will fit one way and everything is as accessible as can be when in the car.
I had to find places to mount the speaker crossovers, gauge module, BIM01 CAN module, Mopar Performance CBID module, key buzzer, dash buzzer, keyless entry, central power lock, and reverse lockout modules in addition to 6 relays, but it all fit and came out pretty good I think. The A/C ducts are the real space hogs!
(https://i.imgur.com/5gLmAzn.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/bYOB479.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/F7PMV7X.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/EuLHDHz.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Wui9r6f.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/MmoteiQ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/rw8AyMd.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/3hvjug4.jpg)
And after many, many months, the 525LPH Hellcat conversion Aeromotive fuel tank that I ordered 11/30/20 finally arrived! This is a unique set up; the fuel pump module is mounted dead center in a baffle foam housing, and the fuel pump wiring and inlet/outlet are somehow routed inside the tank to a bulkhead in the stock sender location.
The fuel level sending unit is a unique piece remote mounted inside the passenger side of the tank on a special built in bracket. It's definitely not a Mopar style factory sender. Since it must use a 73-10 ohm sender from some other common linear resistance application (most likely Ford) unlike the Mopar one, I'm hoping this and the Dakota gauge set will play nice and actually read accurate unlike the reproduction senders.
I'm running the Mopar Performance control kit with the FPDM so no external regulator or return line is needed. It also includes the 4 vent lines like a 1970 Cali emissions set up, so it gives me some options for venting the tank.
(https://i.imgur.com/vZPv4VW.jpg)
All of the wiring testing went perfect, which is amazing given the amount of crimps and circuits I had to build. I also got a chance to power up the entire dash and program the Dakota Digital RTX gauge set. This is an awesome piece; it has endless customization options. The first video shows it as I have it configured in Day and Night modes, as well as testing the pop up messages and warnings for the high speed fan and line lock arming functions being controlled by the rear defog switch. The 2nd video is it in demo mode.
Love how the gauges keep the original feel with a great modern update. Nice work!!
This Saturday the shell gets shipped out to the body shop for the final work and paint. I'm super excited to finally get it looking like a real car again!
My supercharger LTR arrived and I got it fitted up before the big day. It completes my supercharging cooling system build. This is an off the shelf Koyorad (P/N KH183627) unit that I was able to get mounted even with the A/C condenser, receiver/dryer, and oil cooler in the way without drilling any holes in the body. The LH side uses the two factory radiator bolt holes with longer bolts, and the RH side mounts to the Vintage Air receiver/dryer bracket bolted to the condenser. It's rock solid.
I have plenty of access to the bleed and drain plugs as well as the hose fittings, and there is adequate clearance around everything including the hood latch support.
Between the core dimensions and dual pass flow, this should have similar cooling capabilities to the stock primary/secondary LTR setup used on the factory Hellcat. If I up the boost and need more I'll likely install a Killer Chiller with an LTR bypass setup, though I doubt I will without repeated back to back time at full engine load.
(https://i.imgur.com/JT3yr6L.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/kYmOt6R.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/cyzszOh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Tt9Zb69.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/VTMpRMt.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/FXoYAIl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/V1sr81A.jpg)
I'm going to paint the brackets and heat exchangers black after I get done trimming them to length.
Quote from: Katfish on September 08, 2021, 06:08:34 PM
Got more details on this? What GM pedal did you use?
Is this the process?
- Cut Mopar electronic pedal off
- Get GM pedal (which 1?) and fit to cut off electronic pedal
- Tap GM pedal shaft to accept original style Mopar pedal
Quote from: Dmod1974 on July 10, 2021, 05:52:16 PM
Last update for now - I managed to get my accelerator pedal figured out borrowing from @303 Mopar (https://forum.e-bodies.org/mlist/303-mopar_7) (thank you for that sticky!!!!) and adapted the factory pedal to the electronic pedal that comes with the control kit. I tapped the metal GM pedal bracket so that the factory pedal hex bolt threads into it. I also used the factory pedal pivot spring too.
(https://i.imgur.com/fH6ELIm.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/OJhT6hP.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/mI1A12Z.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/aQMWHKR.jpg)
I used an accelerator pedal out of a 2006 Chevy Impala. Since you're only using the metal pedal bracket, it doesn't matter if the APP sensor is good or bad. I picked one up for like $20. There is a rivet that you'll grind off to remove the GM pedal and pivot pin.
Your other steps are correct. After cutting off the Mopar pedal, you'll need to "gut" the plastic webbing enough to allow the metal pedal bracket to sit flat inside the cavity. I then drilled holes and used 1/4" 20 bolts and flange nuts to retain it.
Obviously, you'll need to spend some time to get the pedal height and side to side alignment right before doing anything permanent, but it's pretty simple other than that. The stock pedal, spring, and pivot screw work perfect.
You will not use the massive clunky plastic pedal adapter that the Mopar pedal comes with. First, it's hard to find space for it with a 4 speed hump, and second, the pedal travel and angle is completely wrong and weird compared to the factory pedals.
You could even possibly reuse one of the 2 factory pedal holes in the firewall too; I had to move mine over about 1/2" for the APP connector to clear the American Autowire fuse panel. It might clear a factory one, but don't quote me on that.
It's been a while, but I finally have something worth updating. I got the car shell shipped off to the body shop to get the last finesse metal work done and get her painted. They're progressing fast; luckily the metal work needed was relatively minor. They got it stripped back down to bare metal and resprayed in epoxy primer. Clearly, they are much better than I am at laying down paint. :haha:
It'll be getting painted in Go Mango orange with a black vinyl top.
(https://i.imgur.com/rfAyECs.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/wYQ9XYi.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/xU3MTAo.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/IDdLWc6.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/hbwLOAX.jpg)
Looks awesome. I like the early style side markers, I wish I had frenched mine. Very cool project and excellent progress.
Did you build or purchase your body dollys?
Quote from: Cbridgewater on November 21, 2021, 07:25:22 AM
Did you build or purchase your body dollys?
I bought them. They were cheap enough where it didn't make sense for me to waste time buying raw material and building my own. I did build my powertrain dolly myself though.
Nice work on the challenger. Mine is also a 73 to 70 clone. Finishing up a the subframe connectors and body panel alignment and gaps. Waiting for paint shop to get to me on their list. I look forward to seeing your progress.
It's been way too long coming, but I should have the shell back in my hands in the next two weeks. The body shop should be doing the blackout treatment and assembly this week, and then it is off to the trim shop to get the vinyl top and headliner installed. I was there on Friday to install the Acoustishield headliner insulation kit, run the dome light harness, and install all of the screws that will go through the headliner.
(https://i.imgur.com/y6FQrEkh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/O1mUh2Xh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/OtVpb7hh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/l8QLiWOh.jpg)
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Looking nice, thx for the update
Looking great !
What's the wire coming out of your rear side marker light ? :huh: Do you have the front marker lights on the rear ?
Quote from: anlauto on June 05, 2022, 02:01:56 PM
Looking great !
What's the wire coming out of your rear side marker light ? :huh: Do you have the front marker lights on the rear ?
The resto side marker assemblies from PG Classic come that way both front and rear for whatever reason. Same pigtails at all corners.
The shell is wet sanded, buffed, assembled, and off to the trim shop on Monday! Should have it back by Friday if all goes well with the headliner and top. The car is gorgeous; it is such a night and day transformation and I'm glad I went with K2 for the paint.
I'm going to have to take extra time and care assembling this thing since I can't be a slob anymore with it like I did when it looked like Joe Dirt's car. I see a lot of masking in my future to protect the paint job during assembly! They even gave the engine bay the full treatment; I can see my damn reflection in it! I'm beyond happy with how it looks now. I will remove the hood scoop block off plates to black them out along with painting the fender bolts with the leftover touch up paint that I have; that's on me since I didn't tell them to do them. Other than that, the other blackout areas I specified were done. Yes, I know the tail panel is supposed to be body color, but I just think it looks weird that way with certain colors. Shoot me.
(https://i.imgur.com/0FwMFP7h.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/4kYjyfsh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/HRQzzF8h.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/VRmhdr6h.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/VvwKzeRh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/jKPo0wth.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/EPe5roLh.jpg)
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(https://i.imgur.com/7NEYqGJh.jpg)
Quote from: Dmod1974 on June 05, 2022, 03:20:57 PM
Quote from: anlauto on June 05, 2022, 02:01:56 PM
Looking great !
What's the wire coming out of your rear side marker light ? :huh: Do you have the front marker lights on the rear ?
The resto side marker assemblies from PG Classic come that way both front and rear for whatever reason. Same pigtails at all corners.
Well I think they sent you the wrong ones, but easy fix, just remove the pigtails at the rear so you can plug in the harness.
I HIGHLY RECOMMEND THAT EVERYBODY go back to page one and look at what he started with and scroll through the 100's of pictures of rust repair.......All I can say is WOW :rubeyes: :unbelievable: :worship: :worship: :clapping: :clapping: VERY IMPRESSIVE build
Thank you! It's been a looong 3.5 years to get to this point, though I feel like the last 1.5 years has been much slower progress because of the pandemic and all of the supply chain issues. I'm hoping to get it on the streets before Fall.
The trim shop wrapped up the headliner and top install much faster than expected; I actually got the car home on Wednesday. Even with the 100F weather I couldn't resist working on it. I started with the metal interior trim around the windows and some under hood odds and ends.
I'm waiting on some paint masking tape and hard floor protective film to come in from Amazon so I can wrap the body panels up during assembly. This is the translucent blue stuff that you often see covering new trim parts or other painted pieces to keep them from getting damaged - I don't want to take any chances with the fresh paint and it will be a little tight until I get the Hellcat engine/Tremec Magnum underneath it.
(https://i.imgur.com/LiUvlQBh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/0KTLt04h.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/WJ3AQfnh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/yQqoxcPh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/zSI1fgsh.jpg)
Man this thing is looking amazing ............now the fun begins :banana:
Quote from: Dmod1974 on June 12, 2022, 06:45:28 AM
Thank you! It's been a looong 3.5 years to get to this point, though I feel like the last 1.5 years has been much slower progress because of the pandemic and all of the supply chain issues. I'm hoping to get it on the streets before Fall.
3.5 years for the amount of work you did is fantastic. And the car looks great! You should be proud. I remember looking at this thread when you started it thinking "man, this guy certainly jumps in with both feet, not fazed by cutting out pretty much EVERYTHING from the car"
Quite a transformation. :clapping:
It's been pretty darned hot, and I haven't had much free time to work on it, but I'm inching closer to rolling the powertrain underneath it again and putting real wheels on it.
I'm kind of jumping all over the place based on my mood and what I need done in order, so I got the firewall insulation, pedals, HVAC, and everything else needed to install the fully assembled dash since my brother was in town to give me a hand with the bulky SOB.
(https://i.imgur.com/qvON61ih.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/jNPmUFYh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Kyk6i4nh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/giuYvYZh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Pzjt57fh.jpg)
I also pulled the trim off to get restored, and will probably attempt that myself after getting a $2300 quote even though the guy said it was all in really good condition with only a few dents in 2 pieces needing extra work. :looney:
The engine bay is just about ready too; I'm going to make some jumpers and reflare the SS lines going to my line lock/Wilwood prop valve since the tool I'm using is for bench use only. Only consistent way to properly flare stainless though.
(https://i.imgur.com/4x3PpPFh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/RIwFrO7h.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/3j2ATm4h.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/kCZhkGph.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/AAlf1ZVh.jpg)
I also stand corrected about the Dapper lighting fitment
@anlauto (https://forum.e-bodies.org/mlist/anlauto_19) ! I must not have had the adjuster screws run down close enough to where they will be when aimed. I definitely had clearance issues and ended up taking 5 minutes and a 2" KO punch tool to open the fender bucket area up for clearance.
(https://i.imgur.com/d339bmZh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/VrJ1ZQnh.jpg)
Looks great!
What under dash AC is that?
Quote from: Katfish on June 30, 2022, 04:21:21 PM
Looks great!
What under dash AC is that?
It's a Vintage Air system. The ducts aren't hooked up to the HVAC box yet; it's using the factory vents instead of the dash bottom mounted bar.
Gees, that Hellcrate really ads a lot to it eh, I've only played with a 392, and there a lot of stuff you got going on that I don't recognize :huh: :worship:
Quote from: anlauto on June 30, 2022, 04:57:24 PM
Gees, that Hellcrate really ads a lot to it eh, I've only played with a 392, and there a lot of stuff you got going on that I don't recognize :huh: :worship:
Other than the FPDM and low temp cooling system for the supercharger, the rest of it is almost identical to the other Gen 3 hemi stuff. The FPDM allows it to run without a return fuel line by directly controlling the pump output (and fuel pressure), so that saves a little plumbing. Granted, the 2nd cooling circuit more than offsets that!
What are the solenoids (?) by the washer jug for ?
Quote from: anlauto on June 30, 2022, 07:16:29 PM
What are the solenoids (?) by the washer jug for ?
Low and high speed fan operation for my Lincoln MK8 fan. It draws a ton of current that would burn up a normal relay like the one in the Mopar Performance fuse box. The solenoids can take the start up and continuous load without failing quickly.
Ahhh...thank you, I've got so much to learn :tired:
Quote from: anlauto on June 30, 2022, 07:41:58 PM
Ahhh...thank you, I've got so much to learn :tired:
Those are great continuous duty relays.
Interesting, never thought to use them for fans.
I used 100 amp one in trunk to power fuse and relay block when I moved battery back there.
Your car is looking incredible.
Color choice is my favorite for Ebodys.
Amazing progress! Glad to see it all tie in.
What are the plans for the wheels?
Absolutely fantastic job/workmanship! What a beautiful clean car! :worship: I love the colour! That was always my first choice when I was dreaming about owning an ebody way back when! This is one of my favorite builds on here! :bradsthumb:
Quote from: YellowThumper on July 02, 2022, 08:27:49 PM
Quote from: anlauto on June 30, 2022, 07:41:58 PM
Ahhh...thank you, I've got so much to learn :tired:
Those are great continuous duty relays.
Interesting, never thought to use them for fans.
I used 100 amp one in trunk to power fuse and relay block when I moved battery back there.
Your car is looking incredible.
Color choice is my favorite for Ebodys.
Thank you! It was a toss up between this and Green Go for me. Looking at the final product, I'm glad I went with the orange.
Quote from: Purepony on July 03, 2022, 12:17:00 AM
Amazing progress! Glad to see it all tie in.
What are the plans for the wheels?
Thanks! For the time being, I'll run the 18" Torq Thrust M's that were on it before. 275 up front and 305 out back. Now that the car is mini tubbed with inboard relocation mounts I'll probably want something bigger in the back and will change it up. That should be right around the same time that the 8 3/4" blows up I'd imagine. :)) :)) :))
Quote from: Brads70 on July 03, 2022, 02:51:40 AM
Absolutely fantastic job/workmanship! What a beautiful clean car! :worship: I love the colour! That was always my first choice when I was dreaming about owning an ebody way back when! This is one of my favorite builds on here! :bradsthumb:
Thank you! It means a lot hearing that from some of you E-Body veterans!
Another busy and hot few days with not a lot of time to work on the car, but I did manage to spray the inner fender undercoating and begin installing the Quite Ride Acoustishield insulation kit. It's an interesting kit that uses strategically placed strips of Dynamat Xtreme to control noise while minimizing weight. A layer of thermal/sound deadening insulation is then applied over that and seam sealed with reflective tape. The Dynamat and thermal barrier panels are all precut and designed to go in with minimal effort. I can vouch that the roof and trunk pieces fit very well; the only mods I had to make were because I am mini tubbed and to add holes for the license plate light grommet, fuel sender grommet, and filler neck in the quarter panel. Despite the amount of panels, the thermal insulation is very light weight. The Dynamat is without a doubt the vast majority of the kits weight.
It'll be interesting to see how well it does on the road, but I can definitely tell that the trunk area is quieter based on the difference of noise in there from my shop fan before and after.
I also installed my amp rack, and like I've said previously I will be finishing the rest of the trunk so the shiny material will be concealed. I installed my steering column but will be holding off on the main floor insulation until I get the powertrain installed later this week. I wanted to get the trunk done so I could make sure amp rack cleared the filler tube so I can get my fuel tank installed finally.
(https://i.imgur.com/Q7aWrXnh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ZIPLWgnh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/DHRWqerh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ufRHRRuh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/z46KjRLh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/5XJdhOhh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/NNfp8Azh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/YV750pmh.jpg)
Looking good with the sound control.
Yea, I have heard that properly placed strips of Dynamat still works well.
Be sure to close these holes and also any in the C pillars to prevent sound migration from trunk forward.
Good call, I'll seal those up when I do the main cabin.
I got the Aeromotive 525 fuel tank and 8AN Hotrod Fuel hose installed and wired up. I went with the black/orange fittings and orange checked black braid. I did have to notch the LH muffler heat shield to clear the 90 degree fitting at the tank. Other than that, plug and play! The rear end assembly and rear wheels are also back on it and I'm just about ready to roll the powertrain under it!
(https://i.imgur.com/DUfuVkmh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/9QTRVRHh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/2kL4KH2h.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/agsbgrD.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/zAWLJXL.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/W0Gpp46.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Gom8O3u.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/k3KkGsT.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/fBWdMvK.jpg)
Looking really good :banana:
After another grueling day, I managed to get the powertrain, suspension, and brakes back together. It went fairly smooth, but man, this is a TIGHT fit. Hopefully I never have to do plugs on this thing because that driver side back corner will suck. Tomorrow I'll start doing all of the routing, clipping, and plumbing - which I'm sure will take quite some time given how much space this beast takes up.
There are 2 things that I'll need to sort out: the steering shaft is hitting my 2" header pipe, and the clearance between the wiper motor and supercharger coolant crossover block is virtually nil. I'm not worried about the engine moving backward at all since it will twist with torque, but I need to make sure I have some clearance. I'll measure tomorrow and see if I need to do anything about it. The steering shaft may just require me shifting the column over a hair. We'll see; it's almost never that easy.
(https://i.imgur.com/Dc6dw8rh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/oGlrt1th.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/CiNeCJRh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/LtlhKhXh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/002FQ8lh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/sucZPSBh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/UBuFJqch.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/QRf2BLuh.jpg)
So far, plumbing and routing everything has gone pretty smooth. I was shocked at how much room I have up front for the cooling package; that was one thing I was worried about. I have way more than I did with the 408 stroker/March pulley combo.
With the air filter and battery tray removed I have tons of room to get to the power steering, A/C, and lower radiator hose connections. I got the oil cooler installed and plumbed up, and I'm waiting on some hoses to hopefully get the A/C, radiator, and heater connections taken care of. Harness connections, clutch, P/S, SC coolant, driveshaft, and battery connections are all taken care of too. I'll try shifting the column over tonight or tomorrow night; fingers crossed! Pic's and a couple of YouTube videos I made below.
(https://i.imgur.com/9dL2LKlh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/6o22H22h.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/uSw9mCeh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/UgNCn4Ph.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/3dVuVZnh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/dG4dmo1h.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/RlCZ9Jlh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/GJa0d3Ph.jpg)
Some one should tell RMS that when they design the KFrame/Motor mounts to move the engine forward some, even 1/2" would be nice...Even with the 392...same thing, tons of room up front and super tight at the back... :dunno:
Looking good!
What PN / model is that radiator overflow tank on the drivers side?
Quote from: anlauto on July 10, 2022, 01:09:24 PM
Some one should tell RMS that when they design the KFrame/Motor mounts to move the engine forward some, even 1/2" would be nice...Even with the 392...same thing, tons of room up front and super tight at the back... :dunno:
Right? The only thing I could see for hugging it so close to the firewall is concerns about the shifter for a manual trans sitting in the opening properly. Though, I highly doubt 1/2" forward would cause a problem.
Quote from: Katfish on July 10, 2022, 03:08:33 PM
Looking good!
What PN / model is that radiator overflow tank on the drivers side?
It's actually a 90's 5.0 Ford Mustang overflow tank mated to a Lincoln MK4 fan.
Last week I managed to test and make sure all of my wiring worked correctly, and amazingly, it did. Not one bad crimp, loose connection, or incorrectly wired circuit. I thought that was amazing given the amount of custom wiring and circuit building I did on this build. We'll see how it does after it gets some mileage and vibration through it!
I finished up the plumbing and got it fired up for the first time too. I vacuum filled the cooling systems and prelubed the engine so it fired right up and required very little top off. No leaks or bad noises! I'm shocked at how quiet it was at warm idle with open headers. My old small block was deafening when running that way.
Not everything went perfect though. I am having issues getting the crank relearn to run on HP Tuners, and I have a beta program from them that I'll try out this week. I also have a call in with Mopar Performance because my brand new PCM is repeatedly setting BARO sensor faults and the sensor is internal to the PCM.... The BIM-01 module from Dakota Digital had to be mailed back to get a firmware update to read oil pressure too. I should have that back on Wednesday. I also accidentally ordered one of my 2 custom A/C hoses without a high side port like an idiot, so I had to order another one and install that to charge the system. The hoses I spec'd fit great at least. :looney:
Last issue that I finally diagnosed and resolved with a helper standing on the brakes was a line lock solenoid with a loose O-ring plug that was spraying brake fluid all over my engine and headers only under full pedal pressure. Luckily I fixed that and cleaned it all up fast so there was no damage or staining to the paint or header coating.
I'm now fabricating an exhaust system and parking brake cable setup before working on the rest of the interior.
Upper 1.5" to 1.75" Gates hose (required minimal trimming)
(https://i.imgur.com/5v1mpl7.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/CMiAMbah.jpg)
Lower Gates branded hose. I had to cut this one and reclock part of it with a hose joiner, but it fits great now.
(https://i.imgur.com/yfwtkich.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/BrxM1zPh.jpg)
First start! All of the adaptives had to be learned, so that's why it took a few tries before it would stay running. The throttle pedal learn was already done and the fuel system was primed already, but the PCM has to learn the idle air values to idle smooth.
Warm idle
That's awesome !
So impressed by this amazing build! Just looking at the first page with bodywork and see it now....WOW!
Great to see and hear your progress.
Looking awsome and now also sounding the part.
Quote from: soundcontrol on August 02, 2022, 01:26:30 PM
So impressed by this amazing build! Just looking at the first page with bodywork and see it now....WOW!
Quote from: YellowThumper on August 03, 2022, 04:37:04 PM
Great to see and hear your progress.
Looking awsome and now also sounding the part.
Yeah, I can't wait to get this car back on the road. Hearing it run and knowing the engine is healthy was a major relief!
Well, my diagnosis was confirmed with Direct Connection Tech Support - the brand new PCM is failed, so I'm working with the vendor to warranty it out. Fingers crossed that this isn't a long, drawn out PITA. I did get the Dakota Digital BIM-01-2 module back from them, and I'll be testing it tomorrow to make sure it reads oil pressure now. I also got my parking brake cables in and roughly installed - they're going to work perfectly! The replacement grommet should be in tomorrow as well.
Dakota Digital told me I had to run a separate oil pressure sensor with the BIM-01-2 box on the GEN III Hemis ???
Quote from: anlauto on August 04, 2022, 04:41:03 AM
Dakota Digital told me I had to run a separate oil pressure sensor with the BIM-01-2 box on the GEN III Hemis ???
That was probably true up until a year ago.
Quote from: Dmod1974 on August 04, 2022, 05:28:12 AM
Quote from: anlauto on August 04, 2022, 04:41:03 AM
Dakota Digital told me I had to run a separate oil pressure sensor with the BIM-01-2 box on the GEN III Hemis ???
That was probably true up until a year ago.
AHHH...Okay....with this recent one, I just went ahead and ran a sender anyway... :thinking:
I'm pretty versed in the crate 392 install now, but I have a potential new customer that wants a crate Hellcat motor...what other items or kits would I have to but from Chrysler for the install, different from the 392 ?
Quote from: anlauto on August 04, 2022, 06:02:16 AM
I'm pretty versed in the crate 392 install now, but I have a potential new customer that wants a crate Hellcat motor...what other items or kits would I have to but from Chrysler for the install, different from the 392 ?
Aside from the Hellcat specific control module and harness kit, you'll need to add a low temp cooling system circuit for the supercharger. You'll also need a low profile supercharger crossover, bigger fuel lines and pump than the 392, and radiator with fittings in different places than the other Gen 3 hemis. The Hellcat oil pan and accessory kits are different too.
What about the Supercharger and oil cooling line kit from Chrysler ? Is it best to buy that or make up your own ?
Quote from: anlauto on August 04, 2022, 07:23:59 AM
What about the Supercharger and oil cooling line kit from Chrysler ? Is it best to buy that or make up your own ?
I'm not aware of a kit for either of those things. Some people have adapted the factory parts, but I think it looks like crap and is more work and money. I used the factory reservoir, cooling pump, oil cooler, and trx oil cooler adapter but made my own lines and brackets.
No pics meaningful right now, but I'm currently restoring my stainless trim. All I can say is I should have paid that $2300 to have someone else do it. This is absolutely one of the most tedious and time consuming things I've done so far. Part of that is me learning for sure; I keep having to back track to get all of the scratches out before buffing/polishing, but I have a hard time seeing them until I get everything shiny. Live and learn!
On another note, I wasn't convinced that the PCM was faulty despite Mopar tech support and other experts telling me it was. The OEM diagnostics for the codes said it was too. So, I removed the PCM to box it up and ship out, but I decided to power it up on the bench for grins and low and behold, those codes did NOT set.
So I put it back on the car, and sure enough, they set again. I noticed that BARO would read correct for a few seconds after key on before jumping up to 16psi (should be about 14.4psi for my altitude) and setting the faults. With the gray engine PCM connector unplugged, the codes didn't set and BARO read correctly. Hmmmm....... After ruling out bad grounds and shorted wiring, I ended up figuring out the issue.
The 2018+ Hellcat engines all received upgraded 3 bar (instead of 2 bar) TMAP sensors to better read higher boost levels. There are 4 on the engine (pre supercharger, post supercharger, Bank 1 charge air cooler, Bank 2 charge air cooler).
The PCM in the Mopar Performance control kit is still using 2017 and earlier TMAP sensor scaling in the software which caused all 4 to read incorrectly! Some of you may have seen my videos where I found differences in the knock sensors, EOP sensor, and make up air hose that required some swapping to work with the kit. Well, the old and new TMAP sensors use the same plug as well so I didn't know there was a change until I did some more research. You can swap all 4 TMAP sensors to the old ones, or do what I did and use tuning software to rescale the MAP sensor values to match the newer sensors that can read higher boost anyways.
The P3032 and P2227 codes that were setting are a result of a KOEO rationality check against the 4 TMAP sensors and the BARO sensor in the PCM. KOEO, they should all read pretty close to the same value. If one is sticking out, a fault sets against that sensor. In this case, all 4 TMAP sensors were reading the same (but WRONG) values, so the PCM flagged the BARO sensor as the issue and set the codes. The BARO sensor is built into the PCM, hence why everyone said it was faulty. The factory diag for these codes was basically 2 steps: check for low voltage and replace the PCM if the codes are active.
So after updating the TMAP sensor settings, the codes are gone and the car is no longer in limp mode!
Mopar doesn't offer an updated controller kit, and the crate engines are current production so anybody using both will run into this issue like I did. They don't have any instructions or documentation to warn the customers either, which is stupid. I'll probably make another YouTube video to warn others and show people the 2 solutions to resolve it, but heads up to anybody doing this swap!
Having also did all my SS myself I couldn't agree with you more. Tedious and boring. :alan2cents: But in the end it came out nice. :bigthumb:
Glad you got your PCM sorted out!
Quote from: usraptor on September 14, 2022, 03:34:19 PM
Having also did all my SS myself I couldn't agree with you more. Tedious and boring. :alan2cents: But in the end it came out nice. :bigthumb:
Glad you got your PCM sorted out!
It really is! I'm just about done with the trim minus the large wiper cowl piece that I'm doing now. It took me a few tries, but I finally nailed down that mirror finish. Installing the vinyl top trim while laying in my fully insulated trunk yesterday really sucked! I thought it was hot to begin with, but being in that trunk tightening the trim stud nuts was far worse. I really wonder how they did this on the line back in the day; the 2nd from the front trim studs on each side are only reachable by lying in the trunk and fully outstretching my arm. Definitely not an ideal position to work in. I couldn't get to them at all through the package tray/openings, but my mini tubbing may have made that the only way to get to them.
(https://i.imgur.com/YPflb1y.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/NllGAsW.jpg)
Trim looks awesome.... :drooling: can't agree more about the vinyl top trim :pullinghair:
Quote from: Dmod1974 on September 04, 2022, 11:45:03 AM
On another note, I wasn't convinced that the PCM was faulty despite Mopar tech support and other experts telling me it was. The OEM diagnostics for the codes said it was too. So, I removed the PCM to box it up and ship out, but I decided to power it up on the bench for grins and low and behold, those codes did NOT set.
So I put it back on the car, and sure enough, they set again. I noticed that BARO would read correct for a few seconds after key on before jumping up to 16psi (should be about 14.4psi for my altitude) and setting the faults. With the gray engine PCM connector unplugged, the codes didn't set and BARO read correctly. Hmmmm....... After ruling out bad grounds and shorted wiring, I ended up figuring out the issue.
The 2018+ Hellcat engines all received upgraded 3 bar (instead of 2 bar) TMAP sensors to better read higher boost levels. There are 4 on the engine (pre supercharger, post supercharger, Bank 1 charge air cooler, Bank 2 charge air cooler).
The PCM in the Mopar Performance control kit is still using 2017 and earlier TMAP sensor scaling in the software which caused all 4 to read incorrectly! Some of you may have seen my videos where I found differences in the knock sensors, EOP sensor, and make up air hose that required some swapping to work with the kit. Well, the old and new TMAP sensors use the same plug as well so I didn't know there was a change until I did some more research. You can swap all 4 TMAP sensors to the old ones, or do what I did and use tuning software to rescale the MAP sensor values to match the newer sensors that can read higher boost anyways.
The P3032 and P2227 codes that were setting are a result of a KOEO rationality check against the 4 TMAP sensors and the BARO sensor in the PCM. KOEO, they should all read pretty close to the same value. If one is sticking out, a fault sets against that sensor. In this case, all 4 TMAP sensors were reading the same (but WRONG) values, so the PCM flagged the BARO sensor as the issue and set the codes. The BARO sensor is built into the PCM, hence why everyone said it was faulty. The factory diag for these codes was basically 2 steps: check for low voltage and replace the PCM if the codes are active.
So after updating the TMAP sensor settings, the codes are gone and the car is no longer in limp mode!
Awesome troubleshooting DMOD!! :worship:
Quote from: dodj on September 26, 2022, 05:20:34 AM
Quote from: Dmod1974 on September 04, 2022, 11:45:03 AM
On another note, I wasn't convinced that the PCM was faulty despite Mopar tech support and other experts telling me it was. The OEM diagnostics for the codes said it was too. So, I removed the PCM to box it up and ship out, but I decided to power it up on the bench for grins and low and behold, those codes did NOT set.
So I put it back on the car, and sure enough, they set again. I noticed that BARO would read correct for a few seconds after key on before jumping up to 16psi (should be about 14.4psi for my altitude) and setting the faults. With the gray engine PCM connector unplugged, the codes didn't set and BARO read correctly. Hmmmm....... After ruling out bad grounds and shorted wiring, I ended up figuring out the issue.
The 2018+ Hellcat engines all received upgraded 3 bar (instead of 2 bar) TMAP sensors to better read higher boost levels. There are 4 on the engine (pre supercharger, post supercharger, Bank 1 charge air cooler, Bank 2 charge air cooler).
The PCM in the Mopar Performance control kit is still using 2017 and earlier TMAP sensor scaling in the software which caused all 4 to read incorrectly! Some of you may have seen my videos where I found differences in the knock sensors, EOP sensor, and make up air hose that required some swapping to work with the kit. Well, the old and new TMAP sensors use the same plug as well so I didn't know there was a change until I did some more research. You can swap all 4 TMAP sensors to the old ones, or do what I did and use tuning software to rescale the MAP sensor values to match the newer sensors that can read higher boost anyways.
The P3032 and P2227 codes that were setting are a result of a KOEO rationality check against the 4 TMAP sensors and the BARO sensor in the PCM. KOEO, they should all read pretty close to the same value. If one is sticking out, a fault sets against that sensor. In this case, all 4 TMAP sensors were reading the same (but WRONG) values, so the PCM flagged the BARO sensor as the issue and set the codes. The BARO sensor is built into the PCM, hence why everyone said it was faulty. The factory diag for these codes was basically 2 steps: check for low voltage and replace the PCM if the codes are active.
So after updating the TMAP sensor settings, the codes are gone and the car is no longer in limp mode!
Awesome troubleshooting DMOD!! :worship:
Thanks! I'm just glad I got it fixed without buying another PCM. The vendor I bought it from was giving me the runaround about warrantying it out, and these are like $1000 out of pocket and on backorder to boot.
That is looking so nice and clean.
Now add to that completely reliable for the win.
I think it looks awesome as is! Very nice.
Been watching since you started. Looking great! Amazing amount of work. :clapping:
Yeah, might bump it up a bit just to keep the $2K TTI headers from scraping constantly. These lovely IL roads have potholes and road debris that will take out a dump truck! I got the quarter windows in and adjusted last night. Boy, what an absolute nightmare! My arms look like ground beef right now. Not much space to work, and the Nu-Relics regulators take up a lot more space in the access window than the manual ones did. Trying to fumble around and get the glass lined up with the main track and the two rollers on each side of it was infuriating, but, I got it. The passenger side is adjusted nicely, but the driver side needs a little more work. I might have to shift the drip rail seal channel outward since I'm out of adjuster threads.
Quote from: Dmod1974 on October 02, 2022, 06:05:20 PM
the Nu-Relics regulators take up a lot more space in the access window than the manual ones did.
WOW...couldn't agree more, what a pain in the ass with those power windows... :pullinghair:
I'm still waiting on replacement glass so I tackled the interior carpet and other little odds and ends. It came out pretty good and everything fit well even with the non stock seats, huge trans tunnel, and copious amounts of insulation. I also mounted a Halon based fire extinguisher to the rear of the passenger seat god forbid something ever happens.
(https://i.imgur.com/oNrNgleh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/3sbeUQDh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/SlFGnUMh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/BTT6OBLh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/CBLUGJVh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ifeVQcZh.jpg)
I finally settled on hood badging that fits the restomod theme I'm going for too.
(https://i.imgur.com/SlZSDPgh.jpg)
I also started taking a crack (no pun intended!) at sanding out the scratches in my side glass. I'm starting with the driver's side since it was by far the worst; it's almost like somebody taped sandpaper to the window felts and ran them up and down a few thousand times! I've finished the 120 and 240 grit stages, and all of the scratches are pretty much gone now and the glass looks like it is frosted. It wasn't hard, but certainly time consuming. I'll need to go through 320, 400, 500, 1000, 2000, and then polishing stages. 1000 grit will absolutely not remove anything you can feel; 100ish grit is probably where you'll need to start with any decent scratches. I'd attach pics, but they just don't show the nasty scratching as bad as it really is.
I don't have much choice since nobody seems to have anything in stock right now, and if this doesn't pan out they're garbage anyways.
Great work! I like the looks of those seats. What year was the Tiburon they came out of?
Quote from: daaboots on November 22, 2022, 10:13:10 AM
Great work! I like the looks of those seats. What year was the Tiburon they came out of?
2nd gen - 2003-2008 Hyundai Tiburons
Quote from: Dmod1974 on November 23, 2022, 07:11:00 AM
Quote from: daaboots on November 22, 2022, 10:13:10 AM
Great work! I like the looks of those seats. What year was the Tiburon they came out of?
2nd gen - 2003-2008 Hyundai Tiburons
Awesome! I'll start shopping around :ohyeah:
Quote from: Dmod1974 on November 23, 2022, 07:11:00 AM
Quote from: daaboots on November 22, 2022, 10:13:10 AM
Great work! I like the looks of those seats. What year was the Tiburon they came out of?
2nd gen - 2003-2008 Hyundai Tiburons
What kind of price should a guy expect?
Quote from: dodj on November 24, 2022, 09:19:46 AM
Quote from: Dmod1974 on November 23, 2022, 07:11:00 AM
Quote from: daaboots on November 22, 2022, 10:13:10 AM
Great work! I like the looks of those seats. What year was the Tiburon they came out of?
2nd gen - 2003-2008 Hyundai Tiburons
What kind of price should a guy expect?
I paid $175 for leather front and rear seats (didn't need or use, but they were sold as a set) about 9 months ago.
Figured I'd get an early start and burn some metal before I burn some food, so I wrapped up the front half of the exhaust system for my car. 3" mandrel bent stainless steel with X-pipe, Magnaflow mufflers, and dumps for the occasional track day. I welded it up to hug the floor counters and keep it up as much as possible since my car is lowered.
For those of you wondering why it isn't perfectly symmetric, it really can't be on these cars since the powertrain is offset to the passenger side so the pipes cannot fan out as much outboard. They also don't start off in the same point since the engine banks are staggered, and naturally the header collectors are too. It doesn't matter as long as it's close, and by the time they reach the mufflers they're back on track again. You also need to make sure you don't run the pipe directly under where the seat studs will go.... I had to redo my RH piping because I wasn't paying attention.
I'm hoping to knock out the over the axle pipes this weekend, and I also have my seat frame narrowing done so I'll be sending the front and rear out to get recovered.
(https://i.imgur.com/uJMohWrh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ncSdynwh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/I8uj0bbh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/BQ9zqmxh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/hsyTx1Ih.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/zCcwOsDh.jpg)
Looks great, attention to detail is awesome!
Looks great.
As the system always has a bit of back pressure, the balance is not that important. X takes care of that.
Nice job on tucking it up tight.
I have the same system, minus the dumps, but with an old school motor up front. I think you will be very happy with the tone. Sounds great with my 440.
Quote from: dodj on November 24, 2022, 01:29:39 PM
I have the same system, minus the dumps, but with an old school motor up front. I think you will be very happy with the tone. Sounds great with my 440.
Yeah, I had the same thing but with 2.5" exhaust on my old build and liked it. If it's too loud or drones I can always add some resonators behind the exhaust tips like the factory set up.
I finished up one of the over the axle pipes - I think I'm starting to get the hang of this since I knocked it out in several hours instead of fumbling around for a day and a half like I did with the X-pipe when I started.
I have plenty of clearance between the axle and suspension, so when I blow up the 8 3/4" and move up to a Ford 9" I shouldn't have to rework the exhaust. I might even be ok with the 3" inboard relocation too. I welded in the boxes not knowing if/when I'd use them, and I was concerned that there would be no way to run a full exhaust with them, but I think I might be ok. I'm assuming the coilover would basically stand "vertical" with that relo instead of angling outward, and I think I might still have adequate clearance between the pipe and spring if that's the case.
(https://i.imgur.com/aXCydI5h.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ge3tfauh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/AnrTD0Jh.jpg)
Great job. You did a great job for not being an exhaust guy. When I did my Cummins exhaust I did it with pie cuts. I have 3" dies for my pipe bender but the radius is too big to get some of the compound bends that I needed to do in order to get dual exhaust to fit around my spare tire and then get it to come up higher to come out the middle of the bumper. I converted from single 4" out of the muffler to dual 3". I don't have a pic but I painted to tips red to match the plastics on my clevis pins. I couldn't swallow the cost to do it the way you did it. Mandrel bends are expensive. Even through my distributors they are expensive and we go through a TON of exhaust. Of course I probably had 18 hours into my tail pipes between fitting and TIG welding the 53 joints that I had :headbang: LOL so I guess if I paid myself I never could've afforded it. Of course, being me I just wanted to do it different.
So if you ever need tighter radius or want to save money you could always go with the pie cut method. I use it every once in a while and it comes in handy. Next project will be a custom intake horn for my Cummins for better flow. Then maybe a custom cold air intake down to the turbo.
On a side note, I love when Chevy guys call to order an exhaust system from us and they are shocked that the exhaust isn't symmetrical. Then you inform them that nothing on a Mopar is symmetrical. It amazes me every time that they are this far into the car and are just now realizing that. :rofl:
Absolutely LOVE the build BTW!
Here are some pics of how I did mine a few months back.
Nice job on the exhaust. :clapping: I admire people with welding and fabrication skills. :worship: I took the easy way out and ordered a complete system from TTI. However, I ordered the Dynomax Super Turbo mufflers. Afterwards, I also had electric cut outs/dumps installed after the X-pipe. People love it at the car shows when I open them up. :cooldance: :banana: Keep up the good work. :twothumbsup:
Thanks guys. It was a PITA, but came out pretty nice, especially considering it was my first time building an exhaust. The phone audio doesn't do it justice unfortunately, but it sounds great at idle, and unbelievable at WOT with the blower whine singing along with it too.
I built some wooden wheel cribs to get the car up high but still with its weight on the wheels so I can align it (it would have been great to have these when I built the exhaust.)
It was going well until I got to the left side and couldn't get the caster/camber where I want them no matter what I did.... Then I realized one of the cam bolts was stripped and rotating without moving the eccentric washer on the outside of the shock tower. :headbang: I should have the replacement part on Sunday so I can dial it in and move on to setting toe.
I also managed to find a nice day before it started snowing this week to align the headlights and get the bezels on. I painted the fender bolts, trunk hinge bolts, and strikers body color too since the body shop left them in black. The zip lock bag over the bolt head trick worked perfectly in preventing chips and flaking during installation.
(https://i.imgur.com/x60r2Idh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/AzGsapih.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/qb5FZcNh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/1FL0vw2h.jpg)
Very nice!
Should the area above the egg crate grille be blacked out? While you would almost never have that perspective, looking from that low into the grille, it kind of stands out to me in the picture.
That's a pretty full engine bay...WOW :)
Quote from: dodj on December 17, 2022, 03:48:16 AM
Very nice!
Should the area above the egg crate grille be blacked out? While you would almost never have that perspective, looking from that low into the grille, it kind of stands out to me in the picture.
I honestly don't know. The repro grilles come unpainted, so I looked at a bunch of pics of them and some were and some weren't painted on that bar. Obviously whatever pic I gave them to paint to match it wasn't. You can't see it unless you're practically laying on the ground, so if I have to remove and repaint it I'm probably going to put it off for a while. I want to make sure it's ready to drive come spring.
Quote from: anlauto on December 17, 2022, 06:05:09 AM
That's a pretty full engine bay...WOW :)
Yeah, I know I've said it before but it is a TIGHT fit. That engine swallows up the engine bay.
Nice looking work and on a nice looking car. Funny lookin' grille for a '74 though. :bigthumb:
Beautiful car.
Welded exhaust looks great.
Recently finished a first time exhaust on another project.
Fit, tack, remove, weld, replace, fit, tack, remove, repeat...
Not fun...
Hopefully only another month or so before I can break this car in! I painted the top part of my grille, installed the hood blackout, and installed my front and rear glass myself. It was a pretty anxiety inducing process since you only have one shot before you have to cut the things back out, but it turned out pretty well. I used 3/8" window butyl tape and a tube of CRL 7711 as CYA in a few spots to ensure a leak free install. That stuff is extremely messy; I've never used another product so stringy and sticky. Luckily, I taped/masked everything off and had some Rapid Tac adhesive remover on hand for cleanup. I don't have any pics, but I also installed the trim and wiper arms.
(https://i.imgur.com/2lPQmbGh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/VPIQZP0h.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/kbcsKNTh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/POLMfWxh.jpg)
I got my seats back from the upholsterer and installed too; I think they came out great. I didn't want anything too flashy for this car. Just black leather with orange accent stitching.
(https://i.imgur.com/aYLGKlDh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/s4PUPRQh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/2m9tYUsh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/1Zk5OXSh.jpg)
I bought a power steering analyzer to check the flow rate and relief pressure out of this Hellcat pump to make sure I don't have drivability or rack seal blowout issues once I start driving it. I need to make sure both measurements are compatible with what the Hydroboost and late model Mustang rack require.
I love the seats, they turned out great ! :twothumbsup:
All set and ready for better weather. I'm going to degrease my engine bay this weekend now that the power steering is finally sorted out,
I put together a How To video on modifying the stock Gen 3 hemi power steering pump pressure and flow rate to be more compatible with the steering (and hydroboost if you're running it.) Hopefully this saves some of you some time and money for other things!
Nice work and detailed explanation.
I have the Holley pump with Borgenson gear and I have the hard steering issue at idle, hard turns.
If I'm hearing right, that means too much pressure?
Quote from: Katfish on February 25, 2023, 04:19:44 AM
Nice work and detailed explanation.
I have the Holley pump with Borgenson gear and I have the hard steering issue at idle, hard turns.
If I'm hearing right, that means too much pressure?
The Holley pump is a GM Type 2 pump.
If it's only at idle and low/no speed turns, no, you most likely need MORE pressure. One of 2 things is causing that:
1. You are hitting relief pressure before hitting the actual locks during normal turning. If that is the case, the pump will make the same distinct relief whining noise like when you turn the wheels all the way in one direction. If that is the case, you need a higher relief valve pressure.
2. You don't have enough flow rate at idle speed. This one can be harder to resolve. Changing the flow restrictor fitting MIGHT resolve that if the flow is really cut down, but too much of an increase may cause too much flow rate at higher RPM which leads to twitchy steering. Without modifying the pump internals, raising the idle speed or changing the pulley ratio may also be required.
Well done, great video, Thanks for sharing this info! :bravo:
I haven't posted in a minute since I've been busy driving and breaking this car in since March 1st opened up and my antique plates were road legal again. Even dodging crappy weather and waiting for rain to wash away the salt several times, I have 150 miles on it already.
It drives great! No squeaks or rattles, and so far the only leak I had was from a brand new and defective AN hose end on my Schwartz supercharger coolant crossover manifold kit. Go figure. Luckily, I was able to get the only one out and the new fabbed hose in without removing either block which would have required blower removal. It's maiden voyage was on 3/1 after work so it was dark out (I couldn't wait!), but the 17w Dapper Lighting LED's lights worked GREAT. I was a little worried (after I bought them of course) that I should have went with the 30w bulbs, but it ended up being a nonissue. The 17w bulbs lit the road as good as my modern cars with LED lights without being overpowered.
Zero issues with the low/high speed steering and brake feel, so the pump mods worked well. The brake proportioning is dialed in, but I'm still working on getting the coilover firmness where I want it. I think I need to firm up the front end a fair amount more to match my much stiffer springs that I installed after dropping the Hellcrate engine in. The rear is about where I want it.
I'm really surprised how quiet the 3" exhaust is. There's no drone which is a good thing, but I swear it is quieter than my old 2.5" setup. I'm hoping that's just because it's insulated so well; it's been too cold to cruise with the windows down yet so I guess we'll see.
The HC engine/6 speed combo w/ 3.91's is a blast to drive. Around town it is very mild mannered, and at cruise RPM the double overdrive gears make it super comfy to drive for long periods of time. The shift throws aren't too short or long, and the hydraulic clutch effort is just right too. It's much firmer than many late model cars where you can push the pedal down with your pinky, which I prefer since you have more feel during initial engagement.
I did have to get creative to get the Dakota Digital RTX speedo, SST Reverse Lockout Module, and Mopar Performance CANBUS Interface Device (CBID) to all see VSS inputs correctly so everything would work, but I knew I'd probably have to do that initially so I made sure the wiring was accessible.
The Reverse Lockout Module allows reverse to be selected at very low speeds (varies based on VSS pulses on a given combo - for me, it allows reverse at roughly 3MPH), and disables it above them. Unplugging it isn't an option unless you want to gorilla it into reverse which could damage things over time, and powering it at all times is a problem since it's VERY easy to hit REV instead of 5th. Some people will just wire the trans mounted solenoid to receive power from the brake pedal, but that's kind of tedious too. The CBID somehow uses GPS AND the VSS signal to initially calibrate and then derive the actual vehicle speed to send to the PCM. On this engine, it's used for some idle and engine torque mode algorithms. Not everybody uses it, but you can have some idle and drivability issues without it as well as a CEL that won't clear (U1110 code).
The blower wine under load is music to the ears! WOT is something else though; I need to learn how to control this car since it is by far the fastest thing I've ever owned. Even at part throttle in 3rd gear with 305 drag radials out back I had no issue spinning the tires unexpectedly at 50MPH. The torque this engine makes down low is wild. I need to get it to the track to get myself comfortable and see what it can really do. I'm sure the 8 3/4" is on borrowed time, so it'll eventually get a 9" w/ inboard mounts with a numerically lower number ratio and even wider tires to make full use of that power.
I just had paint correction and a ceramic coating applied to it to protect the fresh paint as much as possible. I can't wait to rack up some more miles and really start beating on this car!
(https://i.imgur.com/XYr4gBjh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/tLeSiyWh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/84IjOdrh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/tBBkBifh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/50GbCxTh.jpg)
Without having to go back and read the entire thread, I have a question regarding fitment of the hellcat motor in an E Body on RMS front suspension. I've done a couple of 392's now, but just sold my first build with a Hellcat. The 392's are tight at the firewall.
How is the clearance of the supercharger at the firewall, and did you ask RMS to move it forward at all ?
Time is money, eh? Do I get any commission for doing the engineering legwork?! :)) :)) :)) :))
It's extremely tight, even with an aftermarket crossover you may have issues with the wiper motor clearance in particular. The blower sucks up a lot of space back there.
My original order from them was back when I had a 408 stroker, so I cut off the original brackets, ballparked from references where RMS sets them, did mock up with them moved a little more forward since I knew it was going to be a problem, and welded on the Hellcat mounts myself. I didn't want to get too crazy though since my car is stick and the shifter to opening clearance would become a problem next.
That said, I can't comment 100% on the fitment from RMS as delivered with Gen 3 hemi mounts welded on by them. I'd bet just from car to car variation some will barely clear, and others won't. It's that tight. A lot of people who have done this swap on early Mopars have run into wiper motor clearance issues. I'd move them forward to be safe and avoid a really bad situation after the car is in paint, etc....
Quote from: Dmod1974 on March 25, 2023, 10:45:10 AM
Time is money, eh? Do I get any commission for doing the engineering legwork?! :)) :)) :)) :))
:) When I ordered it from RMS I was asking Bill and he said nonchalantly, I can move it forward 1" if you like ? :huh: and I'm like, does it have to move forward, what have you done in the past....and he wasn't really clear, said he hasn't had to before ?? :clueless:
So I opted to just get the mounts made in their standard position...was thinking after, that I could simply move the engine forward, by just re-drilling the four holes on the mount plates :dunno: , the tranny cross-member is slotted :alan2cents: likely only need 1/2'' or 3/4''
I'm using a 3spd wiper motor if that makes a difference.
Quote from: anlauto on March 25, 2023, 10:54:02 AM
Quote from: Dmod1974 on March 25, 2023, 10:45:10 AM
Time is money, eh? Do I get any commission for doing the engineering legwork?! :)) :)) :)) :))
:) When I ordered it from RMS I was asking Bill and he said nonchalantly, I can move it forward 1" if you like ? :huh: and I'm like, does it have to move forward, what have you done in the past....and he wasn't really clear, said he hasn't had to before ?? :clueless:
So I opted to just get the mounts made in their standard position...was thinking after, that I could simply move the engine forward, by just re-drilling the four holes on the mount plates :dunno: , the tranny cross-member is slotted :alan2cents: likely only need 1/2'' or 3/4''
I'm using a 3spd wiper motor if that makes a difference.
Maybe.... I don't think there is enough room on the motor mount plates to safely slot or redrill them 1/2" to 3/4" forward. Might not be an issue with a 5.7 or 6.4, but 717HP in a stick car is going to stress things a lot more. You'd be awful close to the ends of the plates the way they are contoured. Either way, I guess you'll find out soon enough if you need to do that at all, and if it'll work.
I'm running a 3 speed too; I'm not sure if it's any better or worse but that is without a doubt the closest interference point.
I was already thinking of having to extend the plate on the front end of course :thinking:
Car looks awesome, glad to hear it drives as good as it looks.
I too was surprised by how docile my 5.7 sounds compared to the 340 it replaced.
Quote from: Katfish on March 25, 2023, 01:50:51 PM
Car looks awesome, glad to hear it drives as good as it looks.
I too was surprised by how docile my 5.7 sounds compared to the 340 it replaced.
Thank you!
Yeah, I'm really glad I didn't install resonators under the trunk floor when I built the exhaust. It would have been way too quiet for my liking. I always have the dump pipes for track days I suppose. I would like to swap in a max effort Hellcat cam and limiter kit one day too. MMX sells one that sounds fricking amazing. :wowzers: :wowzers: :wowzers: