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1974 Challenger Restomod

Started by Dmod1974, December 08, 2019, 09:25:14 AM

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soundcontrol

So impressed by this amazing build! Just looking at the first page with bodywork and see it now....WOW!

YellowThumper

Great to see and hear your progress.
Looking awsome and now also sounding the part.
Life is to be viewed thru the windshield. Not rear view mirror.
You are the only one in charge of your destiny.

Mike.

Dmod1974



Quote from: soundcontrol on August 02, 2022, 01:26:30 PM
So impressed by this amazing build! Just looking at the first page with bodywork and see it now....WOW!

Quote from: YellowThumper on August 03, 2022, 04:37:04 PM
Great to see and hear your progress.
Looking awsome and now also sounding the part.

Yeah, I can't wait to get this car back on the road.  Hearing it run and knowing the engine is healthy was a major relief!

Well, my diagnosis was confirmed with Direct Connection Tech Support - the brand new PCM is failed, so I'm working with the vendor to warranty it out.  Fingers crossed that this isn't a long, drawn out PITA.  I did get the Dakota Digital BIM-01-2 module back from them, and I'll be testing it tomorrow to make sure it reads oil pressure now.  I also got my parking brake cables in and roughly installed - they're going to work perfectly!  The replacement grommet should be in tomorrow as well.


anlauto

Dakota Digital told me I had to run a separate oil pressure sensor with the BIM-01-2 box on the GEN III Hemis ???
I've taught you everything you know....but I haven't taught you everything I know....
Check out my web site ....  Alan Gallant Automotive Restoration

Dmod1974

Quote from: anlauto on August 04, 2022, 04:41:03 AM
Dakota Digital told me I had to run a separate oil pressure sensor with the BIM-01-2 box on the GEN III Hemis ???

That was probably true up until a year ago.

anlauto

Quote from: Dmod1974 on August 04, 2022, 05:28:12 AM
Quote from: anlauto on August 04, 2022, 04:41:03 AM
Dakota Digital told me I had to run a separate oil pressure sensor with the BIM-01-2 box on the GEN III Hemis ???

That was probably true up until a year ago.

AHHH...Okay....with this recent one, I just went ahead and ran a sender anyway... :thinking:
I've taught you everything you know....but I haven't taught you everything I know....
Check out my web site ....  Alan Gallant Automotive Restoration

anlauto

I'm pretty versed in the crate 392 install now, but I have a potential new customer that wants a crate Hellcat motor...what other items or kits would I have to but from Chrysler for the install, different from the 392 ?
I've taught you everything you know....but I haven't taught you everything I know....
Check out my web site ....  Alan Gallant Automotive Restoration


Dmod1974

Quote from: anlauto on August 04, 2022, 06:02:16 AM
I'm pretty versed in the crate 392 install now, but I have a potential new customer that wants a crate Hellcat motor...what other items or kits would I have to but from Chrysler for the install, different from the 392 ?

Aside from the Hellcat specific control module and harness kit, you'll need to add a low temp cooling system circuit for the supercharger. You'll also need a low profile supercharger crossover, bigger fuel lines and pump than the 392, and radiator with fittings in different places than the other Gen 3 hemis. The Hellcat oil pan and accessory kits are different too.

anlauto

What about the Supercharger and oil cooling line kit from Chrysler ? Is it best to buy that or make up your own ?
I've taught you everything you know....but I haven't taught you everything I know....
Check out my web site ....  Alan Gallant Automotive Restoration

Dmod1974

Quote from: anlauto on August 04, 2022, 07:23:59 AM
What about the Supercharger and oil cooling line kit from Chrysler ? Is it best to buy that or make up your own ?

I'm not aware of a kit for either of those things. Some people have adapted the factory parts, but I think it looks like crap and is more work and money. I used the factory reservoir, cooling pump, oil cooler, and trx oil cooler adapter but made my own lines and brackets.

Dmod1974

No pics meaningful right now, but I'm currently restoring my stainless trim.  All I can say is I should have paid that $2300 to have someone else do it.  This is absolutely one of the most tedious and time consuming things I've done so far.  Part of that is me learning for sure; I keep having to back track to get all of the scratches out before buffing/polishing, but I have a hard time seeing them until I get everything shiny.  Live and learn!

On another note, I wasn't convinced that the PCM was faulty despite Mopar tech support and other experts telling me it was.  The OEM diagnostics for the codes said it was too.  So, I removed the PCM to box it up and ship out, but I decided to power it up on the bench for grins and low and behold, those codes did NOT set. 

So I put it back on the car, and sure enough, they set again.  I noticed that BARO would read correct for a few seconds after key on before jumping up to 16psi (should be about 14.4psi for my altitude) and setting the faults.  With the gray engine PCM connector unplugged, the codes didn't set and BARO read correctly.  Hmmmm.......  After ruling out bad grounds and shorted wiring, I ended up figuring out the issue.

The 2018+ Hellcat engines all received upgraded 3 bar (instead of 2 bar) TMAP sensors to better read higher boost levels.  There are 4 on the engine (pre supercharger, post supercharger, Bank 1 charge air cooler, Bank 2 charge air cooler). 

The PCM in the Mopar Performance control kit is still using 2017 and earlier TMAP sensor scaling in the software which caused all 4 to read incorrectly!  Some of you may have seen my videos where I found differences in the knock sensors, EOP sensor, and make up air hose that required some swapping to work with the kit.  Well, the old and new TMAP sensors use the same plug as well so I didn't know there was a change until I did some more research.  You can swap all 4 TMAP sensors to the old ones, or do what I did and use tuning software to rescale the MAP sensor values to match the newer sensors that can read higher boost anyways.

The P3032 and P2227 codes that were setting are a result of a KOEO rationality check against the 4 TMAP sensors and the BARO sensor in the PCM.  KOEO, they should all read pretty close to the same value.  If one is sticking out, a fault sets against that sensor.  In this case, all 4 TMAP sensors were reading the same (but WRONG) values, so the PCM flagged the BARO sensor as the issue and set the codes.  The BARO sensor is built into the PCM, hence why everyone said it was faulty.  The factory diag for these codes was basically 2 steps: check for low voltage and replace the PCM if the codes are active.

So after updating the TMAP sensor settings, the codes are gone and the car is no longer in limp mode!

Mopar doesn't offer an updated controller kit, and the crate engines are current production so anybody using both will run into this issue like I did.  They don't have any instructions or documentation to warn the customers either, which is stupid.  I'll probably make another YouTube video to warn others and show people the 2 solutions to resolve it, but heads up to anybody doing this swap!



usraptor

Having also did all my SS myself I couldn't agree with you more.  Tedious and boring.   :alan2cents:   But in the end it came out nice.  :bigthumb:
Glad you got your PCM sorted out!

Dmod1974

Quote from: usraptor on September 14, 2022, 03:34:19 PM
Having also did all my SS myself I couldn't agree with you more.  Tedious and boring.   :alan2cents:   But in the end it came out nice.  :bigthumb:
Glad you got your PCM sorted out!

It really is!  I'm just about done with the trim minus the large wiper cowl piece that I'm doing now.  It took me a few tries, but I finally nailed down that mirror finish.  Installing the vinyl top trim while laying in my fully insulated trunk yesterday really sucked!  I thought it was hot to begin with, but being in that trunk tightening the trim stud nuts was far worse.  I really wonder how they did this on the line back in the day; the 2nd from the front trim studs on each side are only reachable by lying in the trunk and fully outstretching my arm.  Definitely not an ideal position to work in.  I couldn't get to them at all through the package tray/openings, but my mini tubbing may have made that the only way to get to them.




anlauto

Trim looks awesome.... :drooling:  can't agree more about the vinyl top trim  :pullinghair:
I've taught you everything you know....but I haven't taught you everything I know....
Check out my web site ....  Alan Gallant Automotive Restoration

dodj

Quote from: Dmod1974 on September 04, 2022, 11:45:03 AM

On another note, I wasn't convinced that the PCM was faulty despite Mopar tech support and other experts telling me it was.  The OEM diagnostics for the codes said it was too.  So, I removed the PCM to box it up and ship out, but I decided to power it up on the bench for grins and low and behold, those codes did NOT set. 

So I put it back on the car, and sure enough, they set again.  I noticed that BARO would read correct for a few seconds after key on before jumping up to 16psi (should be about 14.4psi for my altitude) and setting the faults.  With the gray engine PCM connector unplugged, the codes didn't set and BARO read correctly.  Hmmmm.......  After ruling out bad grounds and shorted wiring, I ended up figuring out the issue.

The 2018+ Hellcat engines all received upgraded 3 bar (instead of 2 bar) TMAP sensors to better read higher boost levels.  There are 4 on the engine (pre supercharger, post supercharger, Bank 1 charge air cooler, Bank 2 charge air cooler). 

The PCM in the Mopar Performance control kit is still using 2017 and earlier TMAP sensor scaling in the software which caused all 4 to read incorrectly!  Some of you may have seen my videos where I found differences in the knock sensors, EOP sensor, and make up air hose that required some swapping to work with the kit.  Well, the old and new TMAP sensors use the same plug as well so I didn't know there was a change until I did some more research.  You can swap all 4 TMAP sensors to the old ones, or do what I did and use tuning software to rescale the MAP sensor values to match the newer sensors that can read higher boost anyways.

The P3032 and P2227 codes that were setting are a result of a KOEO rationality check against the 4 TMAP sensors and the BARO sensor in the PCM.  KOEO, they should all read pretty close to the same value.  If one is sticking out, a fault sets against that sensor.  In this case, all 4 TMAP sensors were reading the same (but WRONG) values, so the PCM flagged the BARO sensor as the issue and set the codes.  The BARO sensor is built into the PCM, hence why everyone said it was faulty.  The factory diag for these codes was basically 2 steps: check for low voltage and replace the PCM if the codes are active.

So after updating the TMAP sensor settings, the codes are gone and the car is no longer in limp mode!
Awesome troubleshooting DMOD!!  :worship:
"There is nothing your government can give you that it hasn't already taken from you in the first place" -Winston Churchill