First time painting a car - some questions

[daaboots]

Hi folks. I'm nearing the point where I will begin preparing the car for a paint job. I've never painted before, so please bear with me if I don't get the terms correct.

I have read through the guide on this site https://www.e-bodies.org/how-to-paint-a-show-car-step-by-step-guide/

I was just wondering if all the steps are absolutely necessary. I'm not chasing a perfect show car. I just want something half decent looking for a daily driver.

The steps in question are #3 (metal prep chemical) and #10 (sealer) - are these necessary? I was always under the impression that after sandblasting you'd spray it with primer, and then after some filler and block sanding, another coat of primer and then spray the base coat of paint.

Anyone have some suggestions?

[RUNCHARGER]

The short answer is yes. The main idea of both is to get good adhesion, you don't want to do all that work and have the paint lift or craze while you're trying to spray it.
The metal prep get's rid of all oils etc. that may keep your primer from sticking to the metal. Same thing with the sealer, you've used fillers and primers to this point and your colour coat may not stick to the brand of primer underneath it as well as you want to spray your colour over a uniform foundation to get an even shade over the whole car.
These two steps are actually not that labour intensive or expensive compared to some of the other steps involved. I know it seems involved and time consuming but any shortcuts can result in wasted materials and effort.

[Blowout]

I've painted a bunch of stuff over the years and I have never used the metal prep chemical.  I've just made sure my metal surface is clean.  If I sandblast, I scrub the hell out of the metal to knock off all the dust and the follow the directions on the epoxy.  You've got to be pretty clean about what you're doing.  SPI coatings has some very good epoxy primer that I think is absolutely great.  Its also used as a sealer when you reduce it 1:1.  So you save on cost there.  It also gives you a 7 day window which you can apply body filler or recoat without sanding.  Great stuff and if used as described, it can be used for epoxy and sealer.  Look them up and read their instructions, it'll save you time and money and not cut corners.  They also have a great forum.

[Marty]

Metal prep/conditioner and epoxy primer do not work well together. Eventually the finish will separate. Maybe not in days but months later. Long after the paint work is done. Check the tech sheets.

Always shoot for a show car paint job. You're using the same materials those body shops use. You're already doing the mind-numbing work. The Paint/materials is much too expensive to do anything less. Go the extra effort you won't regret it. JMHO.

[Xghobo]

Do yourself a favor and don't skip any steps, you can skip the metal prep but your not saving any work as you would still have to wipe down the metal with thinner and a scotchbrite pad so same amount of work and you really should use a sealer that will make your color uniform over the body work. Use a white sealer for a night color and a dark sealer for dark colors as it really does make a difference

[tparker]

I would also make sure you follow the recommendation of the paints your are using, as stated above. Also agree, make sure the primer color is compatible with  your color. Yellow no longer contains lead which helped it be opaque but now it is a bit transparent. The paint dealer recommended a white primer since yellow is fairly transparent. More so than a lot of other colors. 

My sealer was just reduced primer. I didn't use any metal prep. Just cleaned it really good.

[torredcuda]

1000 different body/paint guys will give you 1000 slightly different ways to prep and paint a car with most of them being perfectly OK. Tech sheets are your friend, read the ones for the paint brand you are using. I have used a lot of different products and techniques over the years with very few issues - different primers from lacquer to epoxy, using sealer or no sealer, different metal prep techniques etc. The current steps I`m using are - after sanding to bare metal clean with wax and grease remover or glass cleaner ( a new one for me but some swear by it), epoxy primer over bare metal with NO acid/etch prep, high build primer, some primers can also be used as a sealer when thinned more saving you buying another product, paint. I have used many different brands of paint in shops but have been a diehard PPG user for my own vehicles but that is changing with my road runner due to the high cost now, I have been trying Tamco products and so far been impressed with quality at a lower price, I`ve heard SPI is also very good but they don`t mix factory colors so you need to use someone elses base coat.

[jimynick]

I originally used a matt black epoxy (I think you saw the car?) and thought I'd just scuff it, prime it and paint. Imagine my dismay when I discovered I could scratch it off? Stripped it to metal, again, groan, and re-primed and hit it with a polyester high build. Buy yourself a can of guide coat and discover the joy of hours of board sanding. If you don't have now, buy a set of decent blocks and lots of paper. The bulk self adhesive ones are bang for your buck. Once I got the thing decently straight, it got another prime coat for the finish sand. I'd go to at least 500 grit and 600 would be better yet. A NSS (non sanding sealer), as mentioned is a good surface and colour equalizer just before applying the colour base. Buy the best clear you can afford, but that doesn't mean only PPG or such. We used a Sherwin Williams product and it turned out very well. You've spent so much money and time on this car, that to sluff the final paint job is an insult to you and the car. You've done it right all the way along, don't drop the ball on the 5 yard line now. Can't wait to see the finished result! 

[daaboots]

Thanks for all the input folks! I guess the bottom line is to carefully read the instructions of the primer/paint and just follow that.

My local shop sells Proform epoxy primer, which they say is a quality product. Anyone have experience with that company?

[7E-Bodies]

I'm not only following the show car finish write up from @Cuda Cody to a tee, but I've printed it along with his included links for the PPG material data and have them in a neat and orderly 3 ring binder in my shop for quick reference. I am using the recommended 2 part bare metal prep, but admittedly I'm not doing the whole car at once, so I'm treating individual panels. So far, I have ZERO regrets or negative issues. Some parts of the car have been in epoxy for 2+ years (all indoor in my shop) and I'm here to tell you that the DP40 isn't even hinting at losing it's bond. As a matter of fact, it's like armor. I will be sanding mine per PPG recommendations to get a good mechanical bond with high build primers that are soon to happen. Again, zero regrets.

[69 500]

if you don't strive for the best you can do why even bother.

[tparker]

@daaboots  Any updates? Would  love to hear  how it is going?

[DeathProofCuda]

if you don't strive for the best you can do why even bother.

Because many times, striving for the best you can do results in a car that will never be driven again...

[torredcuda]

if you don't strive for the best you can do why even bother.

Because many times, striving for the best you can do results in a car that will never be driven again...

Not everyone needs a show quality car, I have way more fun driving my car than cleaning, polishing it and looking at it from a chair at a car show.

[7E-Bodies]

1000 different body/paint guys will give you 1000 slightly different ways to prep and paint a car with most of them being perfectly OK. Tech sheets are your friend, read the ones for the paint brand you are using. I have used a lot of different products and techniques over the years with very few issues - different primers from lacquer to epoxy, using sealer or no sealer, different metal prep techniques etc. The current steps I`m using are - after sanding to bare metal clean with wax and grease remover or glass cleaner ( a new one for me but some swear by it), epoxy primer over bare metal with NO acid/etch prep, high build primer, some primers can also be used as a sealer when thinned more saving you buying another product, paint. I have used many different brands of paint in shops but have been a diehard PPG user for my own vehicles but that is changing with my road runner due to the high cost now, I have been trying Tamco products and so far been impressed with quality at a lower price, I`ve heard SPI is also very good but they don`t mix factory colors so you need to use someone elses base coat.

So NO bare metal prep as quoted in @Cuda Cody write up? A little late for me as the majority of the shell is done and in epoxy, per his write up. I still have the engine compartment to epoxy this weekend as I have it to bare metal right now. After all this work, PPG/Cody was wrong in suggesting this? Not a pleasant thought.