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Rear Drum Brake Build

Started by Shane Kelley, September 06, 2017, 08:52:12 AM

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RUNCHARGER

Great post Shane: Us old guys take these things for granted but Points ignitions, Carbs, Drum brakes etc. are not common anymore.
Sheldon

Chryco Psycho


Chaos-N-Mayhem

Thanks for the awesome pics and write up. This is what makes this site great!


340challconvert

Nice review of rear brake rebuild.
Did you rebuild the brake cylinders or buy new?
Mine are probably original and I need to repair/replace
If u bought new, what did u buy?
Thanks and again great pics on your tutorial!


Data Moderator A66 Challenger Registry

Owner of 1970 A66 Challenger convertible

Topcat

Nice thread.   :bigthumb:

How bout one for the front brake Kelsey Hayes as well.

Shane Kelley

Quote from: 340challconvert on December 03, 2017, 10:55:36 AM
Nice review of rear brake rebuild.
Did you rebuild the brake cylinders or buy new?
Mine are probably original and I need to repair/replace
If u bought new, what did u buy?
Thanks and again great pics on your tutorial!
I replaced with new. You definitely want to rebuild or replace. They are fairly inexpensive to replace with new or re manufactured ones compared to rebuilding the ones you have. Different people have opinions on replacement ones or correct markings and all that with originals. Not much difference in price so that will be up to the you if you want originals or not. But you definitely want to address them.   

Archialfa

Great post, just what I needed!  :ohyeah:
Plum Crazy 1970 Challenger 440 Magnum


GrandpaKevin

Thanks for the pics, it's been awhile since I've done drum brakes and the pics were a great reference.
I think I did it right.

One word of advice, when buying new brake hardware kits make sure you check them and verify all the parts are there. I bought a so called complete 11" rear axle brake hardware kit off E-bay a few months ago from a reputable Mopar vendor and when I went to install it parts were missing, some parts were very poor quality and didn't fit well and I got 2 left hand threaded star adjusters.
I ended up cleaning up some of the original hardware parts and they fit and worked much better.

Moving on to the front disc brake swap next.

BIGSHCLUNK

Well done brother, we;; done!  :perfect10:

340challconvert

Quote from: GrandpaKevin on May 17, 2018, 05:42:27 PM
Thanks for the pics, it's been awhile since I've done drum brakes and the pics were a great reference.
I think I did it right.

One word of advice, when buying new brake hardware kits make sure you check them and verify all the parts are there. I bought a so called complete 11" rear axle brake hardware kit off E-bay a few months ago from a reputable Mopar vendor and when I went to install it parts were missing, some parts were very poor quality and didn't fit well and I got 2 left hand threaded star adjusters.
I ended up cleaning up some of the original hardware parts and they fit and worked much better.

Moving on to the front disc brake swap next.
I found out the same thing when I redid my rear brakes.
I had to order different vendor kits to get all the parts and I did end up cleaning up and reusing some of the old parts,  Good part is the kits were not that expensive.



Data Moderator A66 Challenger Registry

Owner of 1970 A66 Challenger convertible

Dakota

One additional thought to add to this terrfic thread: on an episode of "Garage Squad," they included a tip to cover the drum brake shoe surfaces with masking tape during installation to keep dirt and oil off the pads.   The tape is pulled off right before the drum in installed.  I used this tip when I replaced my truck parking brake shoes.  The tape definitely prevented a lot of crap from getting on the shoes. 


Dakota

The parts kit for my rear drum brake rebuild included a pair of curved ("belleville") washers.  I didn't see thesevamong the parts pictured above and also don't remember seeing them when I dismantled the brakes.  I found a couple of posts elsewhere for other car brands that suggest these washers go under the horseshoe-shaped "c" clip on the pivot arm to provide tension (the hole diameter in the washer would appear to be sized for this).  Seems to be a "nice to do" vs. a "gotta have it" part, but I'd appreciate one of the experts here weighing in. I've included the retaining clip for the shoe spring in the picture just for a size referenece.  Thanks. 

GrandpaKevin

My local fastener store called those wavy washers and they were under the C clips on the parking brake levers on my car.
My hardware kit did not include them so I reused the original ones.

Brads70

Great write up and workmanship! Thought this would be a good place to add this post . Kinda like one stop shopping for drum brakes.
https://forum.e-bodies.org/wheels-tires-brakes-suspension-and-steering/12/rear-drum-brakes-locking-up-before-fronts-try-truck-rear-wheel-cylinders/3018/msg43894#msg43894

Rear Drum brakes locking up before the front discs? Seems to be a common problem so I thought I'd add what worked for me.
I used the truck wheel cylinders when I had drum brakes. Worked great with no lock up before front wheels locked up Stock bore is 15/16" and the trucks is 7/8" (Raybestos WC37236, DORMAN  W37236).

Application.
CHRYSLER   IMPERIAL   1968-1969
DODGE   B100   1971-1977
DODGE   B200   1971-1977
DODGE   B300   1973-1977
DODGE   D100 PICKUP   1972-1977
DODGE   D150 PICKUP   1977
FARGO   B200 VAN   1971-1972
FARGO   D100 PICKUP   1972
PLYMOUTH   PB100   1975-1977
PLYMOUTH   PB100 VAN   1974
PLYMOUTH   PB200   1975-1977
PLYMOUTH   PB200 VAN   1974

GrandpaKevin

Good advice :twothumbsup:

I put the 7/8" truck type rear wheel cylinders on my wife's Challenger's 4 wheel drum to front disc brake conversion with Dr. Diff's A body proportioning valve and aluminum master cylinder.
http://www.doctordiff.com/1-piece-proportioning-valve.html

I was very happy with the results so I bought the same 7/8" rear wheel cylinders, Dr. Diff valve, master cylinder and front disc brake conversion kit for my Challenger.

Both cars are manual brakes.