Steering column shaft

[Burdar]

Ok, car was originally equipped with power steering, decided to convert to manual steering.  Took the two piece steering shaft apart and installed a longer manual steering lower section.  Changed my mind and will be using power steering after all.  Took the steering shaft back out and separated the two halves once again.  Then I noticed that the upper section has a master spline for the steering wheel.  I didn't pay attention how the two halves were oriented.  I just want to confirm that the master spline for the steering wheel should line up with the notch in the steering coupler.   

[anlauto]

YES...Every piece in the shaft lines up. The top piece is mastered for the wheel, the bottom piece has a hole indicating the master, and of course the coupler is marked for the master.

[Cuda Cody]

   I just double checked some shafts, and yes the hole at the bottom is in line with the notch in the spline. 

[anlauto]

  You didn't believe me ?

[Cuda Cody]

I believed you!     I just wanted a reason to go look at parts in the garage!   

You didn't believe me ?

[cataclysm80]

That's good to know.
I have several shafts with bad bottoms or tops that need separated to save the good halves and then put together properly.
Some of them have stripped threads up top, or have been torched out of a car and the bottoms gone.

[Burdar]

Perfect thanks. For some reason the original lower shaft doesn't have the typical hole in it. The manual steering lower shaft does though. Maybe it's a year thing? The manual shaft was from a 72 Demon. The original one is from 68. Maybe the hole was added in 1970?

As long as I line up the coupler with the steering wheel spline I'm good to go. I glued the two halves together with gorilla glue the first time.  I think this time I'll drill all the way through the upper piece and put a plastic bolt in there.

[cataclysm80]

How hard was it to get them apart with the Gorilla Glue on there?

[Burdar]

Initially they were locked together nicely. However, during installation, I had to tap on the end of the shaft in order to get the snap ring installed. The shaft didn't want to move up the last 1/16". Tapping the shaft with a hammer broke the bond and it collapsed a little. If I would have used a slide hammer instead, it would have been fine I think.

[Burdar]

I'm going to try and get this column done this weekend.  Two questions...

First, how critical is the overall steering shaft length?  Searching online it looks like an A-body shaft is supposed to be 37 1/2" overall.  When I set the shaft to this length, the holes in the lower half don't line up with the notches in the upper half.  If I set the shaft to 37 3/4", the holes will be centered in the notches.  The coupler has some wiggle room but I don't know how much.

Second, the coupler doesn't have a hole in the side for the small roll pin like the later model cars have.(to keep the coupler internals from accidently coming out)  Don't you think it would be a good idea to add this pin?  What size is the hole and exactly where did the factory locate it?  Thanks

[Cuda Cody]

There's some play in the coupler, so I don't think it has to be perfect down to a 32nd.  But you want it close to specs so it can sit about in the middle of the coupler and have room to move back and forth with the twisting of the suspension and car body when you drive.

When you say the holes do not line up at 37.5" but they do at the 37.75" are those the factory holes that had the plastic that help them together?  If your shaft was originally at 37.75 I would trust that number over one you found online.  I think .25" is nothing with the amount of room in a coupler.  They are 3" long and I would guess have at least 1/2" on top and bottom of play.   

The rebuild kits come with the small pin for the coupler.  I would add it if you can.  Just extra insurance.  Just measure the pin in the kit when you get it.

Can you post some photos of the holes / notches you are talking about so I'm understanding it correctly?  These are the pins you're talking about , right?

I'm going to try and get this column done this weekend.  Two questions...

First, how critical is the overall steering shaft length?  Searching online it looks like an A-body shaft is supposed to be 37 1/2" overall.  When I set the shaft to this length, the holes in the lower half don't line up with the notches in the upper half.  If I set the shaft to 37 3/4", the holes will be centered in the notches.  The coupler has some wiggle room but I don't know how much.

Second, the coupler doesn't have a hole in the side for the small roll pin like the later model cars have.(to keep the coupler internals from accidently coming out)  Don't you think it would be a good idea to add this pin?  What size is the hole and exactly where did the factory locate it?  Thanks

[Burdar]

Here are some pictures.  There is a little distortion because of camera angle but the first picture shows where the notches and holes line up at 37.5".  The holes are just outside of the notches.  The second picture shows how they line up at 37.75".(holes basically centered in the notches)  The third picture shows the location of the small pin that holds the shoes in the coupler.  Should I drill the coupler and add this pin?  I guess I can just measure this one as far as location.  Anyone have a coupler without the pin installed?  What size drill bit fits in the hole?

[Cuda Cody]

How about using a plastic welder to load it up first then put the shafts together.  Maybe set them at 37.625" and push more of the plastic welding material through the hole to lock it in?  Do you think that would work?

[cataclysm80]

Second, the coupler doesn't have a hole in the side for the small roll pin like the later model cars have.(to keep the coupler internals from accidently coming out)  Don't you think it would be a good idea to add this pin?

It's a great idea to add the pin!

[cataclysm80]

At the factory, the two halves of the shaft were put together at the proper length, and then the plastic was squeezed inside through the little holes.
From the factory, the holes must have lined up with the notches on the inner shaft.

As long as both you're shaft halves are for the same car type and steering type, I'd think they should match up.