392 Hemi build

[RacerX]

Thx for.the update.
I'm wondering how to get the motor mount bolt in with the oil filter adapter in the way?
I have the 45 degree and doesn't look possible.
So what to do
1) try and mount the adapter after engine is installed?
2) bolt mount to k-member and try and bolt that to metal bracket after dropping motor in?

Both look to be tough with not much room to work?

That is a good question and I mentioned this issue in my post above...

On the passenger side motor mount the nut on the mount for the K member bolt needs to be
ground off and welded to the front of the mount because the oil filter blocks inserting the
bolt from the front.

This will allow you to insert the bolt from the rear, unobstructed.   The bolt may need to be
shortened a bit depending on how much wants to stick out of the motor mount after it is screwed
in.    If the bolt is too long it will contact the oil filter adapter after passing through the nut but if
care is taken to make the bolt the proper length it will work fine.

[74-5.7]

Thx for.the update.
I'm wondering how to get the motor mount bolt in with the oil filter adapter in the way?
I have the 45 degree and doesn't look possible.
So what to do
1) try and mount the adapter after engine is installed?
2) bolt mount to k-member and try and bolt that to metal bracket after dropping motor in?

Both look to be tough with not much room to work?

That is a good question and I mentioned this issue in my post above...

On the passenger side motor mount the nut on the mount for the K member bolt needs to be
ground off and welded to the front of the mount because the oil filter blocks inserting the
bolt from the front.

This will allow you to insert the bolt from the rear, unobstructed.   The bolt may need to be
shortened a bit depending on how much wants to stick out of the motor mount after it is screwed
in.    If the bolt is too long it will contact the oil filter adapter after passing through the nut but if
care is taken to make the bolt the proper length it will work fine.

I have 5.7 in my car with 45* oil adapter.  If you take the motor mount and press out the nut it's only braised in it can be installed so you can install the bolt from the rear and have about an inch to and inch and quarter space to the oil filter adapter.

[RacerX]

Thx for.the update.
I'm wondering how to get the motor mount bolt in with the oil filter adapter in the way?
I have the 45 degree and doesn't look possible.
So what to do
1) try and mount the adapter after engine is installed?
2) bolt mount to k-member and try and bolt that to metal bracket after dropping motor in?

Both look to be tough with not much room to work?

That is a good question and I mentioned this issue in my post above...

On the passenger side motor mount the nut on the mount for the K member bolt needs to be
ground off and welded to the front of the mount because the oil filter blocks inserting the
bolt from the front.

This will allow you to insert the bolt from the rear, unobstructed.   The bolt may need to be
shortened a bit depending on how much wants to stick out of the motor mount after it is screwed
in.    If the bolt is too long it will contact the oil filter adapter after passing through the nut but if
care is taken to make the bolt the proper length it will work fine.

I have 5.7 in my car with 45* oil adapter.  If you take the motor mount and press out the nut it's only braised in it can be installed so you can install the bolt from the rear and have about an inch to and inch and quarter space to the oil filter adapter.

Yep...  Pretty much exactly what I said   

[Katfish]

Thx, that makes sense.
I was making it harder than it needed to be, appreciate the help

[RacerX]

Got the engine off the stand and on to the rolling test cart.   

For testing I have bolted up the old torque converter from the 46RE and a small block 4 speed bellhousing.
This is so I can test-fit the starter, and eventually start the engine to test the other systems.   The transmission
build will come later.

As some have mentioned before, the starter does not fit "out of the box."    Some grinding is required on the
extended boss on the oil pain rail.   As you can see from the pictures, not much grinding is required.  It is
pretty close before the grinding started.   

Next I addressed the passenger side motor mount situation.   Ground the nut off of the rubber isolater and
welded it on the other side of the mount.    The stock mount bolts that I have are 4 3/8 inches long, and
would hit the oil filter adapter.   I found a 3 inch 7/16-14 bolt fits perfectly.   Fully engages the nut and leaves
sufficient clearance between the oil filter adapter.   

Last picture shows the routing of the Jeep dipstick.   Nice and tight up against the block and out of the way
of everything.   Should work good.   A little hard to get it in and out of the tube, but hopefully will get
easier as it gets coated with oil over time.   

[Dmod1974]

I'm not sure if you're going to run headers or not, but that starter won't clear the TTI 2" ones.  If you're running those manifolds it's a non-issue.

Also, the dipstick tube is supposed to be routed behind the motor mount plate. It should fit just fine between the raised block bosses and mount bracket.  That may be contributing to your dipstick effort issue.

[RacerX]

I'm not sure if you're going to run headers or not, but that starter won't clear the TTI 2" ones.  If you're running those manifolds it's a non-issue.

Also, the dipstick tube is supposed to be routed behind the motor mount plate. It should fit just fine between the raised block bosses and mount bracket.  That may be contributing to your dipstick effort issue.

Will not be running headers.    Manifolds for the win here.   Have never liked headers and these motors make enough power with
manifolds that I don't see it as necessary.

Yes, that dipstick is supposed to go behind the motor mount, but it will not go behind that one.   It would go behind the Holley mount or
the stock mount that is a large X and bolts further back on the four raised bosses.   These smaller mounts that mount forward on
the engine are too far forward and the dipstick will not go behind it without forcing it and adding additional bends.   As it sits now, it is
just touching the motor mount plate and no new bends have been added to it.   I may get out a tubing bender and change the curve
slightly so it isn't touching but as it sits now it would work.

[Racer57]

Sorry if this is a dumb question, but will you be able to replace the motor mounts in the future once everything is in the car ?

[RacerX]

Sorry if this is a dumb question, but will you be able to replace the motor mounts in the future once everything is in the car ?

I presume you mean the rubber biscuits?

I haven't tried but it looks like it won't be any more difficult than with the old motors...   raise the motor up a bit, unbolt the
biscuit, bolt a new one on...

[Katfish]

Nice progress, will you running AC?
Looks like you may have notched the K-frame?
Any pics/details of what's needed there?

Looks like you have the 90-deg oil adapter, everything thing I've read indicates the 45 should work? 

Thx

[RacerX]

Nice progress, will you running AC?
Looks like you may have notched the K-frame?
Any pics/details of what's needed there?

Looks like you have the 90-deg oil adapter, everything thing I've read indicates the 45 should work? 

Thx

Yes, the plan is to use the Vintage Air setup.  I will use the OEM A/C compressor though, not
the vintage air compressor.

The K frame is not notched.   Hopefully that can be avoided.   Will see when it comes time to
fit up the A/C compressor.

The 90 degree adapter is a tight fit but it works.   It is worth it for not having to worry about the
oil filter though.   The 45 adapter points the filter at the K-frame and requires the spill shield
to be ground off and a stubby oil filter.   The 90 places it similar to a big block, only on the
passenger side rather than the driver side.

[Katfish]

Thx for the updates, keep them coming.
I'm just about ready to yank out my 340 a drop in the 5.7 for a trial fit.
I've been working on the motor getting all the details sorted out, motor mounts, headers, Holley steering pump and pan......I've bought several things that weren't needed and had to change directions, it's definitely a learning process.

[RacerX]

A few people have asked for this, so here it is...

Concerning the fit of the stock mopar power steering box with the G3 hemi, it shakes out
like this.

Using these manifolds as mentioned earlier in this thread, the stock box fits and does not touch
the manifold.   The pictures do not show the clearance very well, but it is sufficient.   The closest
spot is at the top of the housing where the steering column connects, but it is still probably enough.
Additional clearance could be gained by slight grinding of the housing and/or the manifold.    Worst
case scenario the motor mount could be shimmed up slightly. 

Since this is the driver side which pulls upward under acceleration the engine should never really
rock downward enough to contact the box.   Of course solid mounts would eliminate that as a
concern but I wanted the rubber mounts for some vibration damping.

As for heat transfer to the steering box from the manifold I don't think the manifold overall is close
enough to the box for that to really be a problem unless the car just sits and idles for long periods
of time.

This is the original box that came in the 71 cuda.   Plan is to recondition and use this one unless
some showstopper comes up.   

Others have mentioned that they tried a Borgeson steering box with this manifold and it would not
fit. 

[Katfish]

Not bad, you have more clearance than I do.......
And I converted to the Borgenson box, wish I hadn't, with TTI shorties

[daaboots]

It looks like you have the engine back together at this point, but if you pull it back out I'd recommend installing a 6.2 Hellcat oil pump. There's lot of talk online about the stock units not delivering enough oil to the cam & lifters. I just went through all this with my 5.7 that suffered the dreaded "HEMI tick"... the cam lobe and lifter on one of the cylinders was completely destroyed. I went with the 6.2 pump since it delivers much more oil pressure (or volume...?)

Just some food for thought.