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My first E-Body (after a lifetime of want)

Started by B and A Bill, April 11, 2020, 11:51:53 PM

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Topcat

Welcome Bill.   :welcome:

Will be great watching the progress on your car.

B and A Bill

Quote from: JS29 on April 12, 2020, 10:07:13 AM
:welcome: some details are needed, engine, trans, ext, ext.  :cheers:

383, 727 (slap-stick), 8-3/4 sure-grip 3.23, the color is Ice Blue Metallic.

CudaMoparRay



BFM_Cuda

Looks like a solid car. Looking forward to more pictures.. 

Welcome to the site.   :cheers:

B and A Bill

And the fun begins! Today I built some new grounds for the ride because the ones that were there were hokey, and the terminations were poor.
Got everything done and buttoned up. Connected the positive battery cable (ignition off (the key was in my pocket)). And the fusible-link popped.
Melted the connector on the harness side. And did a slight number on the wire insulation just inside the bulk-head.
Just from ground connection maintenance! I see Challengers are no different than '70's trucks! LOL
Now I get to try and figure out where the short is. I am surprised it would start/run. That is how bad the grounds were!
I seriously did nothing but upgrade the engine to body ground. Battery to body ground. And clean some others including the battery terminals, and reconnect.

jimynick

Several things here. Welcome to the site and congrats on your score! I really like the colour, but for God's sake be careful with the wiring and have a bolt- or should I say cable- cutter and fire extinguisher handy, too!  :cheers:
In the immortal words of Jimmy Scott- "pace yourself!"

JS29

Hook a test light to the negative post of the battery, put the probe to the negative cable. If there is a short or a draw it will light up the test light. Another trick, hook the test light in between the receptacles of the fuse and if it lights up, that tells me it's a dead short.  :alan2cents: 


B and A Bill

Quote from: JS29 on April 13, 2020, 07:23:53 AM
Hook a test light to the negative post of the battery, put the probe to the negative cable. If there is a short or a draw it will light up the test light. Another trick, hook the test light in between the receptacles of the fuse and if it lights up, that tells me it's a dead short.  :alan2cents:

I am afraid to put power back to the main feed now! LOL
The ammeter is still in the circuit. I hate the ammeter! (yes, I have experienced a dash fir or two)
Admittedly, electrical trouble-shooting is my weak suit.

RUNCHARGER

Pull the bulkhead connector, the main power wire is most likely melted and work from there.
Sheldon

B and A Bill

So far all I know is: with the key off, using a DMM, everything on the accessory side of the fuse block is shorted to ground.
Immediately after it happened, The main feed, and hot side of the fuse block was shorted. But, now only the accessory side is? This makes no sense to me.
Which circuit is actually shorted, I haven't figured out yet. I am not even sure a continuity check with a DMM is accurate? But, with no power coming in, I'm not really sure how to test.
What is the safest way for me to re-apply +12v back to the main feed? I don't have another fusible link. And, don't want to replace it until I know what is going on.
I am thinking a simple fused wire would be the best tool for the purpose of trouble shooting this. Maybe 10amps?

I think I will start a thread in the electrical section. I have done some searching. Found and printed the pinned wire diagrams (very similar to trucks, typical '70s Mopar stuff).
But, they are for rallye dash, which I do not have. Not sure what the differences would be?

soundcontrol

Congrats! Thats a very nice color! What is is called?


JS29

The test light across the negative post and battery will not energize the system.  :alan2cents:

B and A Bill

First mod today to officially make it "my" Challenger!
Got rid of the ugly black generic steelies. In favor of some Torque Thrust's! New bags to go with of course.
The steelies were 15x8 with 4" back-space. With 235/60 fronts, and 245/60 rears. The fronts rubbed the inside of the wheel-house lip molding pretty bad.
I opted for 15x8's again. But, 4.5" back-space. And, 235/60 fronts again, and 255/60 rears.
The extra 1/2" clearance in the front is perfect. And, the 255's tuck nicely in the rear with plenty of clearance (probably could have went with a 275).
Anyway, I feel it was a 100%+ improvement! It is officially mine now! LOL

Scooter

Hard to go wrong with the 5 spoke TT's..  :clapping:

JS29