Any suggestions on brakes?

[Swamp Donkey]

I'm looking at doing a complete brake upgrade on my car.  Like hydraboost master cylinder, 4 wheel disc brakes and maybe a line lock for some fun.  Anything have to be done for the 3rd Gen Hemi power steering pump to work with a hydra boost and the actual power steering? I'm looking at either Wilwood or Baer.  Or anything else that one might suggest.  Mostly my question is about the hydra boost and what one to get. Thanks

[greentween]

Hydroboost was the best upgrade I have done to my car. Link to my shaky video after I installed it:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NrjRnQGj5fU&t=77s

I have the OEM slider calipers and 11.75 rotors up front and a Summit disk kit in the rear that uses the ford type rear caliper.

[MoparLeo]

Unless you plan on road racing rear disc are just eye candy. The fronts do 70 +% off your braking. Properly maintained/adjusted rear drums will be more than adequate. Save your money for something else.

[Dakota]

I kept my power brake booster and upgraded from drum to disc up front with a basic kit from www.getdiscbrakes.com for my 70 Challenger with a 340.   Kept the drums in the rear.  The car stops well for the street and highway driving I've been doing.  The money I saved by not going Wilwood or whatever on all 4 corners helped cover the cost of new brake lines.

That just my 2 cents.  It's your car.  Equip it in whatever way makes you happy.

[7212Mopar]

If your engine has good vacuum, you don't need hydroboost. If buying a hydroboost kit, it can be expensive. I think there are three companies that make the kits and will show up if you Google. Some members had built from junk yard parts. Check past threads and if will show up. I have the hydroboost with the 13" front and 11" back dusc brake kits from Dr. DIFF and they work great. You need the adjustable proportioning valve and distribution block to go with it. Also decide on wheels and tires. The bigger brake kit requires bigger wheels than 15". The car will stop like a modern car except without the antilock so that part of braking is same to avoid lockup. If you like driving through hills and turning corners, you will like it. If car is just for cruising, I would agree upgrade to factory front disc brake and keeping rear drum brake would work just fine. Disc brakes had more choices in brake pad compounds.

[dodj]

Even if you keep the drums in the back you will need to reduce their breaking power with an adjustable prop valve.  So, imo, disc's on the rear are a waste.
I have Baer cross drilled and slotted front disc's with ceramic pads. Mopar original drums on the back

[Chryco Psycho]

There is a lot to this
the factory has 6 pistons to move 2 in each wheel cylinder & 1 in each caliper , it is easy to get to 20 pistons using 4 each in the rear & 6 in each front caliper , even with good vacuum the factory booster will give you the feel of having no brakes , Hydroboost is the only way to go in this case . Hydro boost cab be done very inexpensively , go to a wrecker & get a hydro boost unit or buy one from Rock auto & adapt it by making a piece of plate steel to mount it , then you need to make up the pressure lines to create a circuit to flow the fluid . Of course you can buy a kit where the work is done for you .   
Rear discs look cool but often will interfere with the rear sway bar & may eliminate the park brake , in multiple hard stops like autocross for sure they are worth it as drums brakes fade fast , but in normal driving you really have to consider if it is worth doing . Scarebird offers conversion parts to very common parts to convert rather than buying a kit .

[GoodysGotaCuda]

I went away from hydro boost due to the lack of "feel". I run manual wilwoods on my car and it hauls down quite well, I can brake on the tire lockup threshold effectively if I want to.

The hydroboost cars I've driven had very low effort, which is nice, but it was hard to get any sort of feeling...which will happen when hydraulics are boosting hydraulics.


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[MOPAR MITCH]

"Rear discs look cool but often will interfere with the rear sway bar..." says Chryco.

Question:  Does anyone know if the DR DIFF 10.7 rear disc setup will interfere with the factory rear sway bar and its end link brackets?   I've actually just ordered that setup... I'm back at doing hi-speed road course events (HPDE/HSAX) and figure the rear discs can help over the small 10" drums.. as well as still fitting within my street/hwy/cruising 15x8 mini lite rims (otherwise run 16" for competition).

[7212Mopar]

Running Dr Diff 11.7" rear disc brake kit and factory rear sway bar. Everything clear. Sway bar not even close to the brake assembly.

[Chryco Psycho]

I would talk to Dr Diff , it also depends on the rear sway bar you are using .
I have seen the calipers interfere with the factory rear sway bar .
it is a balancing act fr sure , too many moving parts & no brakes , too much assist & no feel , I love to have the feel of impeding lockup & love manual brakes but often when modified you have no brakes as I have witnessed on 1/2 dozen cars that could barely stop from 30 MPH .