Brake Advice

[rebelyell]

I crawled up under my car this weekend to find the brake line leak and everything connected to the brakes is rusted. I want to replace the lines, but I also want to eventually do a powered 4 wheel disc conversion. I have 4 wheel manual drum brakes now. I read that the available 4 wheel disc conversions aren't that much better than stock, but I hate working on and adjusting drum brakes.

Would you guys suggest I buy the brake line set from fine lines for cheap so I can get it on the road? If so, what else would I need? I want to replace everything, and I've already bought the master cylinder.

Or would you guys suggest going ahead and upgrading to the 4 wheel powered setup? I realize that the consensus is that only the front should be disc, but still have reservations about drums. With any conversion, I'd need to buy 15" front wheels, tires, and trim rings to accommodate 11.75 rotors. More money..more time. 

[Dakota]

I went with the Right Stuff disc upgrade for the front brakes only, primarily to hold the cost down.  I have no road time to give you any feedback, so I'll leave that to others.  If you want to do the rear brakes to disc, my understanding is that you'll need to change to the "green bearings" as the disc brakes won't work right with the movement that comes with the stock rear axle bearing lash adjustment. 

[303 Mopar]

I would call Cass at doctordiff.com and get his kit for a front disc brake conversion, including all lines and a new MC and proportion valve that you will need going from drums to disc.  I would recommend not wasting time or money on rear discs since 70%+ of braking is done by your front discs, unless you are just going for the look.  Also, make sure you tell him if you have a '70 Cuda/Challenger since those spindles are a one-year-only.

[7212Mopar]

The two rear disc brake kits from Dr. Diff will work with factory taper axle bearings. Willwood kit does not and you will need the green bearings. If the axle end play is set correctly, the floating caliber should accommodate the minor movement.

[Chryco Psycho]

 
Use a conversion kit for the front disc using the drum spindles & yes I would use Dr Diffs parts,
If you are going to do rear disc  Retain the tapered rear axle brgs at all cost so again use Dr Diff parts
You can order a brake line kit With help from Dr Diff to get the correct lines but the rear lines will likely have to be modified adding rear mounts for the lines & flex hoses to the calipers , the front lines will be the same in that they both use rubber flex hoses to the caliper & can mount on the factory frame tabs  but you need to accommodate the different proportioning valve near the master cyl .

[shawge]

+1 for DrDiff.  Give Cass a call or email and he'll get you on the right path.

Make sure you have your wheel backspacing figured out as his front stage 3 & 4 kits and rear disc kits will increase (push out) the wheel track by 3/16" per side. 

[RUNCHARGER]

+2 for Dr Diff. The Wilwood stuff is pretty though if you want to leave it hung on a wall.

[djw383]

My understanding is wilwood calipers have a better chance of leaking when sitting in storage over winter than OEM calipers, that's why Dr Diffs OEM Rear Ford Cobra Calipers are better.

[rebelyell]

I was afraid you guys were going to tell me to just spend the money and convert it. 

Dr Diff it is. I'll contact him today and see what he says. Thanks!

[RUNCHARGER]

I believe you'll get better bang for the buck going that way.

[rebelyell]

This thread is past due for an update. I couldn't justify spending the money on an entirely new brake retrofit. I have too many other irons in the fire. I spent the $150 and got a new set of brake lines from Fine Lines and rubber lines from Rock Auto.

Aside from ordering the incorrect front passenger line and the front driver line not fitting into the new proportioning valve, the stainless jumper line that connects the one piece intermediate line (runs from the front to the back) to the distribution block on top of the rear axle touches the exhaust. Is there any way to move or relocate the rear tee? The alternative, and it's not a good idea at all, is to put a heat wrap around that section of exhaust and hope for the best. I've already pulled and forced the exhaust out of the way as much as possible.

Any ideas? 

[GoodysGotaCuda]

My understanding is wilwood calipers have a better chance of leaking when sitting in storage over winter than OEM calipers, that's why Dr Diffs OEM Rear Ford Cobra Calipers are better.

How did you determine that on the Wilwoods?

[ledphoot]

Plus 100 on Cass @ DoctorDiff....

I went with his Cobra brake conversion on all four corners.


I'd do whatever you can to make sure your brakes are in top shape, you are sharing the road with people that can come to a halt much faster than you and if you fail to stop in time, you're at fault.

OK off my soapbox.

Got any pictures of your exhaust and how it is touching your distribution??

The cheapest resolution is probably gonna be to cut and re-route your exhaust. Your brake lines should be in factory locations, if they've been mucked with I'd seriously consider replacing all of them and handling any exhaust routing issues once you are certain your brake lines are all in good order.

[Chryco Psycho]

The Tee is held in place with a hollow breather bolt that goes into the housing , you would have to drill & tap a new hole & plug the old hole to move the tee location

[ledphoot]

My understanding is wilwood calipers have a better chance of leaking when sitting in storage over winter than OEM calipers, that's why Dr Diffs OEM Rear Ford Cobra Calipers are better.

How did you determine that on the Wilwoods?

My old Challenger has Wilwoods on it and they sat for YEARS without leaking.