Converting to PS - Borgeson or Firm Feel or other?

[Fish Tale]

I have a 71 Cuda 340 that I want to convert from manual to power steering.  I've read a few posts on boxes, etc.

I'm looking at the Borgeson Univeral 800126 Conversion box and the box from Firm Feel (probably the Stage III).  Anyone have any pros/cons on these boxes?  Is one better than the other?

Also, I'm open to other boxes as well.  I want to get a nice tight steering from the car like a new car without going to extremes in modifications.  Any advice/help is greatly appreciated.  Thanks.

[jimynick]

I like my FF stage 3, for what it's worth. 

[Fish Tale]

Thanks jimynick!

[Chryco Psycho]

# great options
Firm Feel
Steer & Gear
Borgeson
all work well , Borgeson is more modern & lighter !
Roseville might be able to help also ?
Shop around !

[7212Mopar]

Also look up Bergman Autocraft on the Borgeson box and call Peter if interested. He has the kit that makes the switch painless. You also need to consider his version of the power steering pump. I got mine for about two years and running hydroboost also. Nice and tight. No leaks and no need to send the core. You do need to upgrade the rest of the suspension to get the most out of it.

[GoodysGotaCuda]

I have a Borgeson box and like it. I would consider going through Bergman as well.

Do consider that some header types will not fit as well [need modified] around a Borgeson box.

[Fish Tale]

Thanks guys, very helpful.

GoodysGotaCuda - are you currently running headers?

[GoodysGotaCuda]

Thanks guys, very helpful.

GoodysGotaCuda - are you currently running headers?

Yes, TTI makes headers for both borgeson and for stock box Hemi swaps.

[Fish Tale]

Also look up Bergman Autocraft on the Borgeson box and call Peter if interested. He has the kit that makes the switch painless. You also need to consider his version of the power steering pump. I got mine for about two years and running hydroboost also. Nice and tight. No leaks and no need to send the core. You do need to upgrade the rest of the suspension to get the most out of it.

7212Mopar - When you say upgrade the rest of the suspension, are you referring to all the bushings/ball joints, tie rod ends, struts, etc?

[7212Mopar]

Yes. You can start with that. Replacing worn components with new is a good start. Below are what most folks will do in terms of mainly bolt on type front suspension upgrade when staying with Mopar suspension setup. For advance upgrades, please check Brad's thread on his suspension upgrade path that requires special skills.

1. Tubular upper control arms or use factory arms with new ball joints and Moog offset bushings. More expensive option will be to use the Hotchikis UCAs.
2. Reinforce factory lower control arms, replace bushings. I use the poly bushing instead of rubber. Or go with QA1 control arms.
3. Reinforce K frame by welding the seams and add stiffeners at pivot pin slots and power steering mounting bracket. Or go with QA1 K frame.
4. Use greaseable pivot pins.
5. Adjustable strut rods.
6. Upgrade front sway bar, hollow or solid. Many choices.
7. New replacement lower ball joints, tie rod ends, pitman arm and pivot arm, billet style tie rods.
8. Upgrade to larger diameter torsion bars, 1 inch and above (Frim Feel, Hotchikis, PST etc). See torsion bar threads from other members.
9. Single or double adjustable shocks that can handle the larger torsion bar spring rate.
10. Bigger wheel that can use lower profile modern tires.
11. Steering box upgrade ( Firm Feel, Borgeson etc per earlier threads)
12. Bigger brakes and smaller diameter steering wheel are nice.
13. Follow alignment specs outlined by other members in this forum.

Plan the order of your work so you don't have to assemble and then disassemble later. Have fun wrenching. You will feel the difference.

[MOPAR MITCH]

Manual steering is drag... and best suited for drag racing.

Once you improve the steering.. with power steering, you'll want to progress further, similar as indicated above.... just takes time and $$$.

If you go the Borgenson route, do it all though Bergman.. he created the coupler that should always be used with the Borgenson box, as well as the correct ps pump.

One big advantage you already have is the light-weight SB engine... less understeer, less lift and dive, better cornering and manuevering through spirited roads, etc.

MoPower to ya!

[Fish Tale]

7212Mopar - great list to start, thanks man.  very helpful.

Thanks to you as well Mopar Mitch!  Need all the input I can get!

[Katfish]

For those that have done the Borgson swap, what is the all in cost?
Do you need to change the pump too?
I like the smaller size and weight savings, but it's looking like a $1k investment?

[7212Mopar]

Box and coupler plus tax and shipping about $1k. The coupler is pricey but save a lot of headache. I rebuild the stock Signaw pump and cost $30 and some paint. I am running hydroboost with the pump and no problem after I fixed the leak at the back.