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How would you restore this Proportiong Valve?

Started by Jalaska907, December 30, 2017, 06:44:55 PM

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jimynick

May I suggest you buy some spare flare nuts and weld/solder/fill the holes and install them where you remove the lines before you get into buffing and sanding? The inner spool valve runs in very close tolerances and you don't want to introduce any of the brushed off schmutz into the valve. Be careful with the compressed air as well since it's the movement of the inner valve that sets off the alarm and it's fairly common for one to be stuck in that position. Try to use a brass brush as well since steel is much harder than brass and you can mark it or round off edges easily. Just my  :alan2cents:
In the immortal words of Jimmy Scott- "pace yourself!"

Skid Row


Floyd

I haven't rebuilt mine yet, but I found a lot of useful info here.  He also sells seal/gasket kits.  Check out the tech articles.  Scan of what I ordered for my PDB 70 Challenger attached.

https://www.musclecarresearch.com/




Topcat

Quote from: Floyd on December 31, 2017, 01:51:51 PM
I haven't rebuilt mine yet, but I found a lot of useful info here.  He also sells seal/gasket kits.  Check out the tech articles.  Scan of what I ordered for my PDB 70 Challenger attached.

https://www.musclecarresearch.com/

:ohyeah:

https://www.musclecarresearch.com/content/1970-71-mopar-metering-valve-rebuild

Dakota


I cleaned up my proportioning valve using a buffing wheel w/ compound on a bench grinder.  There were little wads of making tape plugging up the holes.   I was pretty happy with the outcome, but I can't play "tell and show" since the part is buried behind the car somewhere.

Not my intent to hijack this thread, but is there a difference between proportioning valves for a car with drums on the front vs. discs on the front?  I had planned to reuse the original proportioning valve from my car (11X3 drums all around) with an upgrade to front discs and keep the drums in the rear.


Jalaska907

Quote from: Dakota on December 31, 2017, 02:22:54 PM

I cleaned up my proportioning valve using a buffing wheel w/ compound on a bench grinder.  There were little wads of making tape plugging up the holes.   I was pretty happy with the outcome, but I can't play "tell and show" since the part is buried behind the car somewhere.

Not my intent to hijack this thread, but is there a difference between proportioning valves for a car with drums on the front vs. discs on the front?  I had planned to reuse the original proportioning valve from my car (11X3 drums all around) with an upgrade to front discs and keep the drums in the rear.

No worries on asking questons.  As I understand it there is a differance.  The picture I posted is for a disc front drum rear TA

Chryco Psycho

Yes the Prop valve is different between 4 wheel drum & disc , 70 is also different from later years
the 70 is a 2 piece unit , later was 1 piece but still different , if you are not worried about accuracy the later prop valves can be used with disc .
Someone here will have decent pictures  :bigthumb:


Burdar

Soaking the brass style valves in EvapoRust isn't going to do anything. EvapoRust attacks rust. There shouldn't be any rust on a brass valve. It works great at cleaning up the newer style valves with the steel/iron bodies.

I cleaned my A-body valve with a little vinegar soak and a polish with steel wool.

Someone makes a rebuild kit for the brass valves.

Cudakiller70

Quote from: Floyd on December 31, 2017, 01:51:51 PM
I haven't rebuilt mine yet, but I found a lot of useful info here.  He also sells seal/gasket kits.  Check out the tech articles.  Scan of what I ordered for my PDB 70 Challenger attached.

https://www.musclecarresearch.com/
His instructions are very good on how to disassemble, clean and what parts to replace and how to reassemble. If I remember right he said to use ammonia to clean brass. He's pretty good at sending parts and answering emails. Have used him twice.

HEMICUDA

The absolute best way is to remove the brackets and have them re-plated and re-install them after the valve has been addressed.  Bob at Finelines made his own gold cad brackets he might install on your original valve if yours are pitted.  He also has the correct bright zinc rivets he can install on your valve for you.  It's not a service he advertises, if you ask him nice and tell him you're a friend of mine, he will most likely do it for you.  Bob has been a very good friend of mine for years and has done all my valves.

Jalaska907

Quote from: HEMICUDA on December 31, 2017, 09:10:17 PM
The absolute best way is to remove the brackets and have them re-plated and re-install them after the valve has been addressed.  Bob at Finelines made his own gold cad brackets he might install on your original valve if yours are pitted.  He also has the correct bright zinc rivets he can install on your valve for you.  It's not a service he advertises, if you ask him nice and tell him you're a friend of mine, he will most likely do it for you.  Bob has been a very good friend of mine for years and has done all my valves.

This has been the biggest struggle for me in Alaska.  I havent found anybody that can do the different plating of parts.  Not even sure who to send parts to for plating at all


RUNCHARGER

Plating is a big deal, I was lucky I had a guy 50 miles away that did my stuff for my last two cars. It sure made it convenient.
Sheldon

Topcat

Quote from: Jalaska907 on December 31, 2017, 09:33:45 PM
Quote from: HEMICUDA on December 31, 2017, 09:10:17 PM
The absolute best way is to remove the brackets and have them re-plated and re-install them after the valve has been addressed.  Bob at Finelines made his own gold cad brackets he might install on your original valve if yours are pitted.  He also has the correct bright zinc rivets he can install on your valve for you.  It's not a service he advertises, if you ask him nice and tell him you're a friend of mine, he will most likely do it for you.  Bob has been a very good friend of mine for years and has done all my valves.

This has been the biggest struggle for me in Alaska.  I havent found anybody that can do the different plating of parts.  Not even sure who to send parts to for plating at all

ArcticMopar is at Whitehorse Yukon. He may know of places for plating and coating.

Dakota

Quote from: Chryco Psycho on December 31, 2017, 05:33:33 PM
Yes the Prop valve is different between 4 wheel drum & disc , 70 is also different from later years
the 70 is a 2 piece unit , later was 1 piece but still different , if you are not worried about accuracy the later prop valves can be used with disc .
Someone here will have decent pictures  :bigthumb:

Thanks much CP.  :worship: Looks like Doctor Diff has one.

http://www.doctordiff.com/70-71-e-body-2-piece-proportioning-metering-valve.html

HEMICUDA

Quote from: Dakota on January 01, 2018, 03:17:45 AM
Quote from: Chryco Psycho on December 31, 2017, 05:33:33 PM
Yes the Prop valve is different between 4 wheel drum & disc , 70 is also different from later years
the 70 is a 2 piece unit , later was 1 piece but still different , if you are not worried about accuracy the later prop valves can be used with disc .
Someone here will have decent pictures  :bigthumb:

Thanks much CP.  :worship: Looks like Doctor Diff has one.

http://www.doctordiff.com/70-71-e-body-2-piece-proportioning-metering-valve.html

All of these valves being sold by whom ever selling them are the same, they were made by MBM.  Finelines bench tested a bunch of the valves and found they were all assembled incorrectly and the failure rate is high.  The cup washer was installed up side down. 

Finelines had their own "correct" brackets made for these valves, I'm sure they have some left.  They were also the only company to have the rubber boot on their valve, I had them made for them.  I'm pretty sure the remaining inventory of rubber boots were sold to Detroit Muscle Technologies.