How would you restore this Proportiong Valve?

[dodj]

Not quite what you started this thread for, but if you are not doing a 'by the book' resto, this prop valve from Wilwood is a nice replacement that also lets you set the bias between front and rear.
https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/wil-260-11179/overview/

[Jalaska907]

Not quite what you started this thread for, but if you are not doing a 'by the book' resto, this prop valve from Wilwood is a nice replacement that also lets you set the bias between front and rear.
https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/wil-260-11179/overview/

Im not doing a "by the book" resto, but the main components Im wanting to keep original, especially since its a 70 with a few items that are 70 only.  Im not going to exact measures of correctness (i.e. exact plating, colors, NOS parts) but im trying to keep it to where if I did sell the car, it wouldn't be that hard for somebody to take it to an OE correct restoration

But thank you for throwing out the idea

[HEMICUDA]

Not quite what you started this thread for, but if you are not doing a 'by the book' resto, this prop valve from Wilwood is a nice replacement that also lets you set the bias between front and rear.
https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/wil-260-11179/overview/

Im not doing a "by the book" resto, but the main components Im wanting to keep original, especially since its a 70 with a few items that are 70 only.  Im not going to exact measures of correctness (i.e. exact plating, colors, NOS parts) but im trying to keep it to where if I did sell the car, it wouldn't be that hard for somebody to take it to an OE correct restoration

But thank you for throwing out the idea

Just go through the valve you have and call it good, the brackets look really nice.  Odds are, your valve will work perfectly.

[PatO]

I've read this thread a couple of times now. Very informative for me.  Whats got me wondering     is that I just purchased  a new distribution/metering valve combination. It's for my 72 Dodge Challenger. I had / will have a drum-disc setup.  If I read correctly there is only one manufacturer and it seems like these items are mostly problematic.    Mine is still in the box.  Is there some way I could perform a simple check or two to see if it would be a problem?  I'll have a 100% new brake system when I'm done and this is one area that I'd prefer not to mess with. 

Thanx for insight!

[usraptor]

I rebuilt my proportioning valve myself.  Just take some pictures before you disassemble and takes note of how it comes apart.  It's not hard to do.  I bought a rebuild kit that basically just included new cups and seals. As you can see mine came out looking pretty nice.  I did replace all my brake lines, front to back though.  I will have to make a disclaimer though, that while I have driven my car up and down the driveway and the brakes seem to work fine, I haven't driven it on the road yet.  Next Spring hopefully.

[Jim AAR]

Nice job Raptor, I like to Teflon tape all the Line Ends on mine though, better to be safe than sorry and have a leak and have the brake fluid eat your paint.

[usraptor]

Nice job Raptor, I like to Teflon tape all the Line Ends on mine though, better to be safe than sorry and have a leak and have the brake fluid eat your paint.

Good idea.  However, since my entire breaking system is new, except for the proportioning valve, I used Dot 5 brake fluid so I don't have to worry about eating my paint if I have any leaks.   

[Roadman]

Never use teflon tape on threaded flared brake line, or any hydraulic fitting. They seal at the flare, not the threads.   

[Jim AAR]

Yes they do, but if there is a nick on the flare or the flare is not perfect it will also seal on the thread and it will never seize up with the teflon tape on the thread either. So if you ever have to take it apart you won't bend the line or strip the nut because it's seized on. I worked in a garage for 4 years and every mechanic I worked with did this on all fuel and brake lines. So I asked why and they said it's just an extra layer of security. Easy and cheap to do, so why not do it. Just make sure the teflon tape is only on the threads and not overlapped onto the flared end.

[340challconvert]

Never use teflon tape on threaded flared brake line, or any hydraulic fitting. They seal at the flare, not the threads.   

Roadman is correct on this
It is always recommended to NEVER use tape on brake lines and hydraulic fittings
They are not designed to be sealed in that manner.
This is pretty standard knowledge and practice among expert mechanics.

[Jim AAR]

Never use teflon tape on threaded flared brake line, or any hydraulic fitting. They seal at the flare, not the threads.   

Roadman is correct on this
It is always recommended to NEVER use tape on brake lines and hydraulic fittings
They are not designed to be sealed in that manner.
This is pretty standard knowledge and practice among expert mechanics.

I use teflon tape or Anti Seize fluid on the thread itself more as an anti seize purpose for future maintenance if required to take it apart. Like I said previously, just make sure not to overlap it onto the the Flared end.

Have you ever tried to make a perfect double flare on a gas or brake line when it's on the car because you snapped or stripped it trying to take it apart because it was seized. I have many times when I worked in a garage and it can be a very frustrating endeavor, usually taking more than 1 attempt. I have never had a fitting that became seized that used Teflon tape on it.

You can do whatever you want, but i'll do it this way and never have to worry about it being seized if I have to take it apart in the future. 

[GY3R/T]

If you don't want threads to seize, use an anti-seize compound. Brush off excess compound when installed. Can't do that with teflon tape (easily). Looks like sht. Brake line threads are straight threads, not tapered threads. The seal on brake lines are at the flared mating surface. Teflon tape has it's place, but not on hydraulics. Especially straight thread.

[Cudakiller70]

I've read this thread a couple of times now. Very informative for me.  Whats got me wondering     is that I just purchased  a new distribution/metering valve combination. It's for my 72 Dodge Challenger. I had / will have a drum-disc setup.  If I read correctly there is only one manufacturer and it seems like these items are mostly problematic.    Mine is still in the box.  Is there some way I could perform a simple check or two to see if it would be a problem?  I'll have a 100% new brake system when I'm done and this is one area that I'd prefer not to mess with. 

Thanx for insight!

Probably is a way to test your new proportioning valve, I don't know of a way nor did find one doing a search yet, maybe someone will chime in with a way. These Valves are pretty simple, I wouldn't worry about it, just install it being sure to bleed everything. Should work just fine. YouTube has some videos that might help. Good luck