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Lower control arm

Started by 61K T/A, March 02, 2017, 03:56:00 AM

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61K T/A

Quote from: headejm on March 02, 2017, 11:19:55 AM
I'm using rubber Moog bushing to completely rebuild my front and rear suspension. Do you need to lube any of the bushings prior to installation? Any other hints/tricks when rebuilding the suspension?  :thankyou:


I always use spray silicone on all my rubber items. It's rubber friendly. Just make sure to install your part quickly because the rubber soaks it up fast!!!

61K T/A

Quote from: RUNCHARGER on March 02, 2017, 07:54:40 AM
Hmm: No it shouldn't spin. I don't think it's a terrible thing though, just hit it with an impact after your ride height is set. Are the torsion bars in, set to ride height and sitting on it's wheels?

Right now I just want to snug up the pp so I can install the rest of the suspension and brakes. A 1/2 impact gun is too large to get to the nut. So I'll be using a 3/8 drive air ratchet to get in there. Once shes on all 4's I'll make the final adjustments.

61K T/A

Quote from: Brads70 on March 02, 2017, 08:03:37 AM
If your using anything other than stock rubber bushings that can happen. I'm using urethane and it happened to mine also. I drilled and tapped for a 1/4 or 5/16 bolt so I would have something to hang onto to prevent it from spinning. When it was tight I simply removed the bolt and installed the torsion bars.

If the air doesn't work I'll be taking this route.


61K T/A

1/2 inch drive air gun with universal and extension and the nut went right on, BAM. 3/8 didn't have the umph. Thanks for all the help. Now  I can sleep tonight.

MOPAR MITCH

I'm in a similar situation right now... Firm Feel's Delrin bushings (white colored)... LCA can't be brought all the way in yet as the PP spins... and I've also installed the TBs.. will try again.. car is up in the air (no engine for a while.... next year.

Shane Kelley

Use grease when using polyurethane bushings. Like Burdar said it's a completely different set up. There is nothing to grease on OE type bushings other than using something to make them press easier. There is a trick I like to use when pressing bushings in-cased with steel sleeves. I put the new bushings and pins in the deep freeze for a couple days. That will make them shrink just a tiny amount. That will make them press in a lot easier. Then once the bushings warm up pull out the pins and press them in. This trick works great for pressing anything metal. Wheel studs, Pilot bushings and bearing races.

Critical Warning
Like people have said before. When using OE type rubber bushings you never want to tighten the pins until the proper ride height is set and car is sitting on the ground. If you tighten them up before that and then set the vehicle down. It will twist and tear the rubber bushings. You might not notice it at first but it won't be long before you start hearing squeaks and noises coming from them. Then you get to do it all over again!

Roadman

  I learned that freezing trick when I worked on heavy equipment. Made beating in new pins and bushing a lot easier.    :rebelflag"


Brads70

Quote from: Cuda Cody on March 02, 2017, 12:51:57 PM
Pretty sure polyurethane bushings need to be greased before installing them to keep it from squeaking.  I don't use them, but people love them and they get good reviews.

If you lube the factory rubber ones make sure it's with a rubber safe and not a petroleum based grease.  I think the stock rubber ones can run dry and be okay.  But not 100% sure  :notsure:

:iagree:  I used Firm Feel's grease-able pins. I put them on the lathe and turned a grease groove so the grease goes all the way around the hole.

Shane Kelley

That groove is a damn good idea. I have the Hotchkis ones like that. Building a set LOCA's for my Cuda just like those. I think I will do that to them also. It kind of blows my mind that you did gold color. I was planning on painting mine gold as well to match the other Hotchkis stuff.  Thanks for sharing!  :ohyeah:

Brads70

I got a nice clean pair of lowers( These are A-Body LCA's that I use with C-Body spindles) cheap that no one wanted because they didn't have sway bar tabs. Easy to make your own, stronger than stock too!  ;)


Shane Kelley

I thought those tabs looked awful nice. Great work! :clapping:


RUNCHARGER

I always love seeing Brad's work.
Sheldon

MOPAR MITCH

Quoted from Brad:  "I'm using urethane and it happened to mine also. I drilled and tapped for a 1/4 or 5/16 bolt so I would have something to hang onto to prevent it from spinning. When it was tight I simply removed the bolt and installed the torsion bars."

Brad... could you please explain that a little better?  T/Anks ahead.

Brads70

Quote from: MOPAR MITCH on October 13, 2017, 02:14:08 PM
Quoted from Brad:  "I'm using urethane and it happened to mine also. I drilled and tapped for a 1/4 or 5/16 bolt so I would have something to hang onto to prevent it from spinning. When it was tight I simply removed the bolt and installed the torsion bars."

Brad... could you please explain that a little better?  T/Anks ahead.

Sure, on the LCA pin the  big end that ends up in the bushing I drilled and tapped it for 1/4" . I then installed a short 1/4" bolt so I could use a socket to hold it from spinning while I tightened the other end in the k-frame.  When it's tight on the k-frame simply unscrew the 1/4" bolt and discard, then install the torsion bar. There is enough room even when the pin is installed in the LCA.
Hope that helps? Worked for me anyhow? 

Roadman

Quote from: RUNCHARGER on October 12, 2017, 06:27:46 PM
I always love seeing Brad's work.

           Brad For President,  " MAKE E- BODIES GREAT AGAIN "     :banana:          :canada:   :unitedstates:   :rebelflag"