My rear-end stance...what is it?

[kawahonda]

What does +0 look like?

[303 Mopar]

What does +0 look like?

+0 is stock, which is a saggy rear that ends up ever or lower than the front.

[Burdar]

Here's mine with the MP HD replacement springs.  Most people do NOT recommend these.  Lot of people have had sagging issues.  So far mine are fine but I haven't driven the car much.  Also, my car is just a stock 318 so there isn't any real power to test the springs.  My front end is lower then the factory spec to match the rear. 

[kawahonda]

Thanks for sharing. Yep, I think what you posted is a good example of +0 or below. It hink that still looks good IMO.

Guys, the cars that I posted on the first page, would you consider those +0 or +1?

[kawahonda]

First place I contacted here will charge $250-375 for my pair of springs for re-arching or for adding a new spring.

Dang....why not just buy new at that point!

Espo's are 220-250 + 30 extra if you want oversized. Plus they come all painted and ready to go!

[Plumcrazzy]

  Sorry guys. Couldn't resist the temptation---thought this subject should have been in the "Sugar & Spice" section.

[dave73]

What would you consider hotchkis springs in relation to stock height? I have them and still have a little rake

[303 Mopar]

What would you consider hotchkis springs in relation to stock height? I have them and still have a little rake

-1" (1" drop) - http://www.hotchkis.net/product/1970-1974-mopar-e-body-geometry-corrected-sport-leaf-springs/

[dodj]

Here's mine with the MP HD replacement springs.  Most people do NOT recommend these.  Lot of people have had sagging issues.  So far mine are fine but I haven't driven the car much.  Also, my car is just a stock 318 so there isn't any real power to test the springs.  My front end is lower then the factory spec to match the rear. 

This is the stance I think is best. Stock MP HD springs. Then adjust the front to your liking. I would recommend thicker t-bars to go with it. Your car will handle corners better as well.
While the a$$ in the air rake is popular, it diminishes the ride quality IMO.

[dave73]

Have your cake and eat it too! Hotchkis rear leafs, 275/60 rear tire, 235/60 front tire, hotchkis tbars cranked way down, aligned great. Drives awesome and still has a little aggressive rake to it!

[kawahonda]

This is why I have to think about my leafs. About 1/2"-3/4" of spacing between tire and helper mounting hardware.

Going from 3.75" backspacing to 4.25" backspacing. Going from a 5.5" wheel to a 7" wheel. Going from a F70 tire to a 235/60 tire. If you do the math, it is inevitable that the new tire will likely make contact with this hardware.

For now, I will take a measurement from the ground to the fender wheel opening on both sides. Then I will remove the helper springs for good. Then I'll re-mreasure. Then I'll get my Mopar friend out here to help give me a second pair of eyes.

There's a very very very fine balance IMO with "perfect", "under raked" and "over raked".

I think I've spent well enough time describing what I like. See photos from page 1. I assume that is "stock", or +0 height.

I wonder if Espo will make a +.5". Otherwise, I feel like +0" height is the right thing to do.

Seems like it's better to let the tires to the raking since it's easy to ruin the bodylines of these cars by arching the rear end up.

Burdar, I love your car's stance. I wouldn't mind if the rear end was a TAD BIT higher (not an inch, that's to much). But I love your look more than 98% of raked looks i've seen. I would gladly take that look, any day over something that's just "a little too much".

[Burdar]

First place I contacted here will charge $250-375 for my pair of springs for re-arching or for adding a new spring.

Dang....why not just buy new at that point!

If you are going to pay someone to add the extra leaf for you then you are correct, just buy new at that point.  Adding the leaves yourself is the most cost effective way to raise the rear.  If you aren't comfortable doing that then buy new.

Go with the 1+.  The reason I say this is because IMO it's better to be a little high then a little low.  If you are a little lower then you'd like you're SOL...you need different springs. If you think it's a little high then you can always add a 1/2" lowering block.

Really tall lowering blocks are kind of a cheesy way of lowering a car but I wouldn't have any issues using a short one to fine tune the stance. 

[Katfish]

They make front spring hangers with 2 sets of holes to fine tune the stance.
I agree, go +1 and tweak it if needed.
You could probably redrill the front hangar yourself

[kawahonda]

I checked with ESPO, and they can do a .5" lift over stock.....

I wonder if that's the ticket.....

Or like what you guys said, get 1" and get some hangers that are adjustable to fine tune.

[HP2]

Keep in mind that some pictures you are looking at have 235/60 front (25.5") and 275/60 (28") so they naturally have 1.25" of rake. Add a +1 spring and you now have over 2" of rake.  If you plan on going with a square tire size all around, you will need rake with the suspension. 

IMO, I'd go with +1. That gives them some wiggle room to settle. If they don't then you can use a small shim spacer to fine tune or change to a two position front hanger. Remember a +1 arch is 1 inch over the stock installed arch, which is around 1.5-1.75 with the spring under the car. Their free arch out lying on the ground may be as high as 4-5". Installed they appear kind of flat by design, but they actually aren't . There is some slight arch to them. A zero arch spring when installed will look like to bends backwards.

Also, a 1" drop in the hanger position does not equal a 1" drop at the axle because mopar springs are asymetrical arches.

Blown motor...sound logic is not what this thread needs. LOL!

Awesome, thank you. I'm looking for a method, and you nailed it. I have a few questions about re-arching springs. Here's what I've read.

1) The cost to re-arch springs is roughly the same cost of getting new ones. True or Myth?

2) I've read some (not ebodies) that have experience paying MORE to re-arch springs because after a few weeks/months they sag right back down again and eventually new springs were still needed. True or Myth?

3) Does re-arching my original springs create more value to my A66 car vs new Eaton/Espo springs? Or are springs considered more or less a "consumable" (like shocks, tires, brakes, etc) in which it makes zero difference to the value?

4) Is there any performance difference with re-arched original 4-leaf springs vs 5-leaf Eaton/Espo springs? My ultimate goal is a stock-sleeper mid 13 second car.

Thanks!

1. It depends on shops in your area. Where I live, I can buy new springs cheaper through mail order than I can have local shops re-arch.
2. It depends on the quality of the steel and the manufacturing process. Some  sag, some don't. Espo has a pretty solid reputation for having minimal to no settling after installation. Certainly if you pay twice for re-arching, you are out more bucks.
3.Unless you are doing concourse judging, requiring exact original part number, no, there is no additional value to retaining your originals.
4. Yes, 5 leaf units will better control spring wrap.