Rear Sway Bar Opinions

[gzig5]

I'm not aware of a direct replacement in the aftermarket.  If you are changing the bar diameter, you need to change the bushings too, so at that point a kit makes more sense.

[Burdar]

I purchased my rear swaybar from Firmfeel.  Factory specs, bolts at factory location, tho i think the factory welded the brackets on.

Nope.  The factory brackets are bolted in.  Similar to that picture.

I'm pretty sure he was talking about the strap that fits around the bushing.  The bracket is bolted to the frame rail but the strap is welded to the bracket on the factory part.  His picture shows the strap is bolted onto the bracket on the Firmfeel part.

[70 Challenger Lover]

On the car I'm building, I'm adding the US Car Tools bracing kit. Sub frame connectors, torque boxes, etc. I was considering using factory style heavy leaf springs unless you guys recommend otherwise. I definitely want heavy torsion bars, heavy front sway bar, poly bushings everywhere, really nice shocks, better upper control arms. I have already welded up my K frame and steering box area on the K frame.

I'm very open to opinions so lay them on me. I want to car to handle reasonably well. The main reason for asking all this now is it makes sense to ensure all metal work and welding is complete before I put it on the rotisserie and start cleaning and painting it up. I'm not crazy about stuff that bolts on. I'm probably way over thinking all this but I'd rather have heavy duty reinforcement plates welded in key areas rather than stuff that bolts up. I guess I have in mind that it will look cleaner this way when finished.

[JS29]

Are you going to reinforce the lower control arms? 

[70 Challenger Lover]

Already done. I even cut of the old slim sway bar bushing mounts and welded on thicker ones.

[Brads70]

Like the age old saying " going fast costs money, how fast do you want to go"
Also applies to handling.
It's the sum of various parts working together that make a nice handling car, no one part is the magic bullet. 
You get what you pay for with shocks. Double adjustable are nice!
Tires are also key, Eg. BFG T/A 's  are not made for handling . Personally I wouldn't use them on my wheelbarrow but that's just my opinion....

E-Bodies suffer from horrible bump steer. Keep in mind the suspension geometry was designed for bias ply tires, meaning handling was not the top priority. When I first got my car it was the worst handling/braking car I had ever owned.  I spent many hours with my car blocked up at ride height trying various parts till I was happy. Then I got good rubber. Any parts supplier that tells you to bolt on this part and you will have zero bump steer is full of .... Many use key "buzz words" to sell you their products.

Here is what I did if it helps any?  I used composite leaf springs, I'm happy with them!
https://forum.e-bodies.org/wheels-tires-brakes-suspension-and-steering/12/-using-c-body-spindles-on-an-e-body-and-a-body-lcas-and-viper-calipers/58/

[jordan]

#70 Challenger Lover    In my opinion, do not use the heavy leaf springs.  The car was too stiffly sprung from the factory.  Adding more spring will make it ride like a dump truck.  A softer leaf and quality shocks will help your ride and handling more so than making the spring stiffer.  The opposite is true for the torsion bars.  Bigger is better.  Let the shock take care of the control.  You seem to be on a good plan with your replacement parts.

[Mrbill426]

Thanks.  No just wanted stock replacement bars.  The original front one is straight but has rust pits; the hardware is in good shape and I have new mount bushings and link kits.  The rear bar is apparently twisted; I have new links for it too.  Rear bushings look a bit tricky as the retainers arr welded together as though they were never meant to be replaced. 

I'm not aware of a direct replacement in the aftermarket.  If you are changing the bar diameter, you need to change the bushings too, so at that point a kit makes more sense.

[70 Challenger Lover]

@Brads70 good god man! A great article with tons of great information. All the front end stuff is definitely way way out of my league. Any advice for someone like me on upper arms and on TB size? My lowers are braced with stronger sway bar tabs. I don't mind making a few more mods but I can't do half the hands on mods you did. I do hope to pick the right uppers though.

[Brads70]

What engine do you have? sb or bb?

[dodj]

BFG T/A 's  are not made for handling . Personally I wouldn't use them on my wheelbarrow

[70 Challenger Lover]

I'm reusing the stock 383. I sort of wish I hadn't rebuilt it already. A 340 would look good in there.

[Brads70]

I would say firm feel 1.060 and also their upper control arms.... one stop shopping

[Scooter]

@Brads70 good god man! A great article with tons of great information. All the front end stuff is definitely way way out of my league. Any advice for someone like me on upper arms and on TB size? My lowers are braced with stronger sway bar tabs. I don't mind making a few more mods but I can't do half the hands on mods you did. I do hope to pick the right uppers though.

I put SPC uppers on mine. Not horribly expensive, quality part and as much adjustment as you will ever need.

For leafs, I'm shopping as well. Prior owner installed the Heavy Duty Mopar Performance leafs and I'm getting the "dump truck" ride jordan mentioned above. No idea what their spring rate is, but whatever the number they are too stiff.  The Hotchkis Sport springs I'm looking at have a rate of 160lb and should soften the ride appreciably. They claim to be "Geometry Correcting" as well.

[70 Challenger Lover]

Well I was close to getting those MP springs. I'll look at the other options for sure. I would hate to do all this and have a terribly rough ride.