Rehauling e-body HD drum brakes

[kawahonda]

Yep, they are all installed like that.

Just showing the difference in pad size on the rear...

[MoparLeo]

Good try back pedaling...

[kawahonda]

Let me say it another way.

The rear and front shoes have smaller pad surface area compared to the old shoes that were on there.

In essence, that will make the rears weaker I'm assuming.

[MoparLeo]

The primary and secondary shoes have always been different sizes. If the old shoes were both the same size, then the previous person installed the wrong brake shoes. So no, the brake shoes were not different before. Still the same when the correct shoes are installed. The shoes are different sizes because of the type of braking system. In this case it is called the "duo-servo" system. The foreward shoe is pushed out to the drum by the wheel cylinder and the rear shoes pivots off of the top pin on the backing plate  causing the rear (larger) shoe to apply most of the braking force to the drum. Uh oh... I did it again. Disregard any information if you want....

[dodj]

 
He is saying the new primary shoe is smaller than the old primary shoe. And the new secondary shoe is smaller than the old secondary shoe....that is all.....

[73_Cuda_4_Me]

@kawahonda -  I also noticed the difference in 'old' vs. 'new' pads surface area when I changed mine...

There is about 1 inch total difference less pad on rear vs rear, and about 3/4" less on the primaries...

Not sure if a different vendor makes a difference, but the ones I got from Advance Auto/Car Quest were the same as yours...

I knew exactly what you were referring to as soon as I saw your comparison!

[JS29]

I prefer riveted brake's over glued. 

[dodj]

I knew exactly what you were referring to as soon as I saw your comparison!

Me to. Anybody who has done the job will notice the difference.

[kawahonda]

I was reading the FSM regarding adjustment, and got a little bit confused.

On the adjustment steps, they say to adjust the star wheel until drag is felt. Then the next step is to basically move the starwheel in the opposition direction until no drag is felt. Then, boom, the brake is set.

But I've been reading/watching things that are very counter to that. I've been reading that you want to adjust until the wheel can spin 3/4-1 full turn with the wheel/tire on maximum. Basically, you want some drag built-in. And of course, you want to shoot for the same amount of drag one very wheel.

Anyone care to elaborate?

[Bullitt-]

I'd say the FSM is a good starting point as the self adjusters, if working properly, will tighten them up if needed.   

[kawahonda]

I'm sure I'll figure it out.

Today:
Bench bled MC. Took about an hour.
Installed MC
Did a check of tightness to all lines and fittings.

Next:
Bleed
Adjust drums
Drive.

[RUNCHARGER]

With manual adjusters I tighten them until they drag and then back them off about 1/4 turn.

[kawahonda]

I think mine are automatic...? Same process?

[RUNCHARGER]

With automatics I try to do the same although sometimes it is hard to back them off easily. When you put the drums on make sure they will slip on but not by much. Then make sure you back the car up several times ot make sure they set.

[kawahonda]

I basically adjusted them until there's little drag. Figured to let the automatic part do the rest. Fine tune if needed if the car is pulling too much one way. I have absolutely no idea if they are all set "perfectly" in sync. I didn't measure or count clicks--I just pulled the hub off, adjusted with my fingers, and slid the hub back on. I basically adjusted them until they were almost locked (barely slid on), then backed off a few turns until there's very little drag. The automatic part should be able to tighten them further if needed...I err'd on the side of too lose, rather than too tight since I assume the automatic part only goes one way.

I started out vacuum bleeding, then I went ahead and made my own bleeder. I bled all four corners (in the correct order). Once in awhile I get a couple microscopic air bubbles...not sure if I should be concerned about those or not. Feels like its inherent to the DOT 5 fluid. So far, I've used about 14 ounces of fluid. I'm planning to bleed again to assure it's all perfect. May decide to use a helper so that one person can visually inspect the tube.

Rebuilt the front hubs . The old bearings were definitely serviceable and could have been reused. Old school timpkins.

The satin black finish of the drums is going to look really sharp with the Magnums. I've always kinda threw-up in my mouth seeing the blotched red paint show through on them.