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Rehauling e-body HD drum brakes

Started by kawahonda, June 05, 2020, 02:34:42 PM

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kawahonda

Pick up fronts. He only took 4 thousandths off, which is hardly anything.

Dropped of the rears.

$14 a wheel.


Will put the new stuff back in the attic.
1970 Dodge Challenger A66

71vert340

Quote from: kawahonda on June 10, 2020, 07:56:50 PM
It isn't in the specifications are (it should be), but I re-read the grinding recommendations section again (5-8), and it's there at the very end. .060" over the standard diameter is maximum. Interesting how Terry's drums state .090" as a max, but those may not be Mopar drums....

That's what I'll run with. 11.060" is the max. That's a good conservative number too according to Terry's photos. Let's see if we can keep these original drums in service instead of just immediately junking them....maybe necessary, but my not be necessary. This car either has 64,000 miles or 164,000 miles. I tend to believe in the former.

The red drum in my photo is one of my original 11inch drums for my car. I have the rallye wheels so those came from the factory painted red. Yours look painted red also.
Terry

kawahonda

My new rear wheel cylinders use a smaller thread compared to the bolts that were on there.

I confirmed my new ones are correct.

Should I just get new flanged bolts that are smaller? Or should the rear have larger bolts?

1970 Dodge Challenger A66


bc3j

Quote from: kawahonda on June 12, 2020, 05:55:20 PM
My new rear wheel cylinders use a smaller thread compared to the bolts that were on there.

I confirmed my new ones are correct.

Should I just get new flanged bolts that are smaller? Or should the rear have larger bolts?

All the replacement wheel cylinders I've bought have smaller threads. Some came with the smaller bolts. I just went to a hardware store with the cylinder and got new bolts, metric I think but can't remember what size.

kawahonda

They're English, fortunately.

1/4" Coarse thread in 1/2" length. Picked up these in grade 8 with some "star" lock washers.

They probably made the switch to smaller bolts to make them more universal. Only the small bolt rear cylinders are available today according to RockAuto.
1970 Dodge Challenger A66

kawahonda

Completed all wheel rebuilds today.

Cleaned up garage. Will install new lines tomorrow.

Pick up rear drums on Monday. Will refinish those at that time. 

Dot 5 arrives mid week. Will bleed around then.



1970 Dodge Challenger A66

kawahonda

New lines installed....

Aside from the driver's front line. The proportioning valve connections are being a hellspawn demon. I have 3 connections left to undo (2 MC connections and driver's front left). The only thing I can think is to just keep spraying it with PBblaster.
1970 Dodge Challenger A66


kawahonda

Here is the inside of the F to R line for reference.
1970 Dodge Challenger A66

kawahonda

What's your guys thoughts on my distribution valve?

I have 3 lines left still in it, and I've given up on trying to flare wrench those fittings out. It's being a hellspawn demon. Makes me wonder if lightly coating some anti-seize on the fittings is not a bad idea...but I'm sure the brake experts @MoparLeo would throw a fit. They seriously are IN there.

I will now proceed cut the old lines, and fit a socket/impact tool on the fittings.

Question is, should I still use the factory distribution valve? I'm supposing mine still works. Should I buy a $100 reproduction one, or should I reuse this old one?

The issue before the tear down is that brakes all of a sudden become very light, lack of good stopping power, and hard to feel with the foot. The parking brake light would come on when I pushed the pedal all the way to the floor. It wasn't "scary", but it wasn't right. My diagnosis is still a loss of hydraulic pressure, not a problem with distribution valve. If so, I'm tempted to reuse...getting the fittings out by any means necessary, and save $100.
1970 Dodge Challenger A66

Bullitt-

From what I've read about problems with reproduction valves you DON'T want one
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kawahonda

Good thing I was easy able to save this then!
1970 Dodge Challenger A66


RUNCHARGER

You're replacing the lines so, cut them off so you can slip on a 6 point socket or wrench to remove them without spreading a flare wrench.
Also hit that wrench with a hammer to impact them out.
Sheldon

kawahonda

All good. Yep, sometimes a man needs to cut.

Used a Dremel with a cutting wheel. Then used a combination of an impact as well as good sockets.

Cleaned and reinstalled.

Perfect.
1970 Dodge Challenger A66

kawahonda

This marks the end of all lines and hoses. I will go over all connections for a third time to do a good "hand" check.

The rest is bench bleeding the master and installing DOT 5, which arrived today.

I highly doubt a shop could do this in one day, but I'm willing to be proved wrong. For me,
It took about 16 hours. I'm still not done, but the the rest is easygoing and should go fast.

I did notice something interesting. The new rear shoes are smaller than what was on there. See pics.
1970 Dodge Challenger A66

Bullitt-

Quote from: kawahonda on June 15, 2020, 08:08:12 PM

I did notice something interesting. The new rear shoes are smaller than what was on there. See pics.
There is a small shoe & large shoe, small faces forward large to the rear...

best pic I could find showing the difference
https://secureservercdn.net/198.71.233.141/53b.c41.myftpupload.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/09/Drum-brake-12.jpg?




.                                               [glow=black,42,300]Doin It Southern Syle[/glow]