Subframe connectors look ugly

[HP2]

Looks like they are making them differently now. the last set I used from them had the saddle mounted on top of the tube.

You always could angle cut the tube to match the frame curve and totally eliminate the saddle. That is how brads70 did his. That also would tuck them up tighter.

[MOPAR MITCH]

Brads70 SFCs are the best!!!   I'd like to buy a set from him someday


Also considering the Magnum Force twin-tube design... lowest to the floor design, perhaps.

[303 Mopar]

A local Mopar only guy installed SFC on my Charger and I just had them done on my Cuda too.  I cannot tell you how much this improves the overall feel and fit of the car.  It is so much more solid and the everything fits (doors, hood, glass, etc) so much better. He cuts into the front and rear frame rail, install 1x2" steel tube and welds them in.  For e-bodies, he cuts and welds the SFC to better match the floor pan.  These are not attached to the floor pan at all, but stay nice and tight.

[1 Wild R/T]

Since were talking frame connectors, what is the easiest, fastest way to get U.S. Cartool connectors spot on ready to weld on?

Has anyone ever made cardboard templates of them and then modify their brand new U.S. Cartool connectors so they're spot on ready to weld?

Or is there a faster way?

Maybe add a video CODY to how to do it section you have. 

Mock the connector in place but use 1/2" spacers at each end to lower it 1/2".... Then use a contour gauge laid flat against the connector to capture the contour then slide it down & scribe it to the connector, repeat as needed....

[jordan]

I used XV motorsport subframe connectors.  They contour with the floor.  I used a plasma cutter to make the fit better.  It is way faster and easier than using a grinder.  I got mine in in only a few hours that way. 

[shawge]

@nsmall, those look like the old Direct Connection/Mopar Performance SFCs - I've got a boxed pair in storage.  You had to trim the end to fit a Cuda or Challenger.
I went with SFCs from Auto Rust Tech.   One thing not accounted for was the parking brake cable as the through hole was way off.

[jimynick]

I bought the conformal ones from Mopar Dave and used a Sharpie marker , 4" grinder and the MKI eyeball. The left one I must have had up and down 10 times to trim but the rt one only needed 6-7 tries and they were welded the length of the floor. They make an real difference and I also added the US Car Tool torque boxes as well. They're a bit of a PITA, but they work and you'd have to get on your knees to see them as well. 

[Chryco Psycho]

I have been using 1x2".125 wall  contoured to the floor for years this is cheap as well , the tubing can be bought for $20 or so

[Brads70]

I have been using 1x2".125 wall  contoured to the floor for years this is cheap as well , the tubing can be bought for $20 or so

  I took Neil's advice when I built mine. I had the US cartool ones but sold them, too much work to fit IMO. Adding that 1" tubing every 6" or so REALLY made a big difference. I had them all carved out to fit my car. I then solidly clamped them in my milling machine vice and with a big adjustable wrench was  still able to twist it back and forth somewhat. When I then added the 1" tubing it surprised me how much of a difference it made. Well worth the extra effort I'd say!  If one was so inclined you could do what I did then add/weld to the side pieces that fit the floor so it looks like the US cartool ones. This would be stronger still.....  I would bet mine ( with the 1" tubing) have let twist than the US cartool ones.
You don't need any special equipment to replicate what I did, just a drill and a disc grinder would work. That and about $20 in material! 

They really do make a big difference, really noticeable when jacking up the side of the car. Best $20 bucks you will spend IMO! Not much point in adding bigger torsion bars to improve handling when the entire chassis is a big torsion bar.

[Chryco Psycho]

I put a slice into the 1x2 at the lowest point of the floor bend it to match the floor profile  & weld the slice back together , I use a wider plate at the front weld it to the 1x2 & weld the plate beside the torsion bar socket  then taper the rear to match the end of the factory frame rail & weld around that .

[303 Mopar]

I put a slice into the 1x2 at the lowest point of the floor bend it to match the floor profile  & weld the slice back together , I use a wider plate at the front weld it to the 1x2 & weld the plate beside the torsion bar socket  then taper the rear to match the end of the factory frame rail & weld around that .

This very similar to what I did (see my 3rd pic above).   

[nsmall]

The ones made by Mancini racing fit so bad they actually gave me my money back and let me keep the them.

I've liked all my parts for Mancini racing but do not buy their subframe connectors IMO.  It was only a hundred bucks for their pair, but about 6 hours to make them work.

[HP2]

Since I recommended those, I have to apologize about the poor fit and intensive labor. I'm glad to hear they refunded your money.

[nsmall]

@HP2

No worries friend.  I take forever to do anything so it probably could have been completed much faster buy an experienced metal worker.  In the end it worked out.

[HP2]