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Subframe connectors look ugly

Started by nsmall, March 24, 2017, 10:33:20 PM

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Shane Kelley

Anybody run the Hotchkis ones?  I also considered the US Tool ones. But after installing their upper apron braces I decided to pass on them. For me it was very difficult to weld the heavy steel to the sheetmetal without blowing holes in it everywhere. By the time I felt I was getting good penetration in the heavy steel it was to hot for the sheetmetal.
I would like to run some but the car is already done so I'm looking for the least amount of destruction. The Hotchkis bolt into the rear spring mounts and weld to the torsion bar crossmember only. 

Chryco Psycho

I would do what I always do $20 worth of tube & bend to match the floor contour & weld both ends .

Shane Kelley

Quote from: Chryco Psycho on June 30, 2017, 05:31:47 PM
I would do what I always do $20 worth of tube & bend to match the floor contour & weld both ends .
I was thinking about what you said. I think that's the route I'm going with also. No sense spending 400 on something I can build for 20-40 bucks. Mine will probably look nicer anyway.

Couple of questions
I'm curious of how you connect the rear.   :takepicture:
On the E brake cable what are you doing?   :takepicture:
Might be self explanatory once I dig in. Just wanted some ideas before I start the project.  Thanks


Chryco Psycho

I use a slightly larger plate at the front so it can be welded almost all the way around
I angle the rear so it will sit flush to the angled end of the factory frame rail , you can cap the weld with sheet metal too for a cleaner look after welding the connector
E brake cable will still fit above the rail

MOPAR MITCH

I like the idea/design of the front wrapping around the trans rear brace, instead of just attaching/welding a face plate to it.    Magnum Force has a new single tube setup that has the wrap around front design.

Topcat

The sub frame connectors that look ugly are the one's you can do quickly.
Take a short cut and wish you hadn't later on.   :alan2cents:

U.S. Cartool connectors look almost like what the factory should've done if they had offered them.   :alan2cents:

Cuda Cody

 :bigthumb:  These are home made weld ins, but might give you some ideas for the E-Brake cable.

Quote from: Shane Kelley on July 01, 2017, 05:34:45 AM
I'm curious of how you connect the rear.   :takepicture:
On the E brake cable what are you doing?   :takepicture:
Might be self explanatory once I dig in. Just wanted some ideas before I start the project.  Thanks


303 Mopar

Quote from: Shane Kelley on July 01, 2017, 05:34:45 AM
I'm curious of how you connect the rear.   :takepicture:
On the E brake cable what are you doing?   :takepicture:
Might be self explanatory once I dig in. Just wanted some ideas before I start the project.  Thanks

The guy that did mine cuts the rear frame rail and slides the steel tube inside the rail, then welds it up.  He does the same with the front rail.  He reinforces the subframe at the bend with larger tube running to the front.  The e-brake has room on top as @Chryco Psycho mentioned.


Shane Kelley

Thanks guys. Dan do you have any more pics of the rear area. I can't quit make out what your explaining.  :thinking:
That's awesome work Cody. I was scared to put anything on mine because the car had been wrecked in the front at some point in it's life and I didn't trust everything was right. Last thing I wanted to do was brace up a problem and have the car sitting cockeyed. :o  Now that it's down on all fours and I can see it sitting correctly I'm ready to stiffen it up.  :yes:

303 Mopar

Quote from: Shane Kelley on July 02, 2017, 05:18:40 AM
Thanks guys. Dan do you have any more pics of the rear area. I can't quit make out what your explaining. 

These are on my Charger, installed the same subframe the same way.  You can see the steel tube runs in past the hole, and he welds a little rosette on the hole to help.  Hope these help.


RUNCHARGER

Sheldon


Shane Kelley


Shane Kelley

After buying the steel and looking at all options I changed directions and went with the Magnum Force XRT sub frame connectors. I know these won't be as ridged as doing a complete weld in set up. But I have no doubt they will help. I'm probably going to weld a couple beads down the side of the front parts that saddles the torsion bar cross member. It's designed for bolt in or weld in. I cleaned them up and painted them. I went with a mat titanium finish. A lot like the Hotchkis suspension parts I put on the car. I thought they look nice and gave it a good contrast but not so much in your face. 

HP_Cuda


Like folks have said leave room for the e-brake cable. As well you don't want the sub-frame connector to be bouncing off your floor pans - it will drive you nuts.
1970 Cuda Yellow 440 4 speed (Sold)
1970 Cuda clone 440 4 speed FJ5
1975 Dodge Power Wagon W200

Shane Kelley

There is a plate about in the middle that has a mirror plate and sandwiches the floor plan. With what your saying I'm sure that's why they put it on there. Thanks