Wilwood 4 Disc Conversion

[JonH]

Wilwood sells different length caliper shims that mount to the drum assembly. My kit fit on one side and did not fit on the other. From my measurements, I determined that the axle housing itself was at fault. I bought the right size shim from Jegs and did not grind anything to make it fit.

Not to be argumentative but the offset is from the axle housing end, to the face of the axle. How can that mean the housing is at fault? That would indicate that the bearing did not seat on the same spot of the axles. All kits come with shims to center the caliper over the rotor. Wilwood lists 3 part numbers for 8 3/4 and Dana rears, depending on axle offset. If it was only a matter of shimming why not have 1 part number with enough shims to work with any offset? I know I have strayed from the OP comments, just wondering out loud. Haven't done mine yet but measured at 2.5" offset. Will know more in a week or 2.

[anlauto]

I did a couple of these conversions as well and found the axle bearing was not pressed on the same on both axles causing some issues.

[HP_Cuda]

It would be cool to see some comparisons of stopping distances with differing brake setups.

Ok who is first?

[Chryco Psycho]

I will do whatever I can to avoid using the green brgs I have had to trim the axles to get them back in as the axles were positioned deeper with green brgs , + they don't last especially doing auto cross . I do agree that disc will be far better in autocross with numerous heavy applications & minimal cooling time , there has to be  good system that will not hit the rear sway bar & retain the tapered brgs out there or can be created for rear disc

[303 Mopar]

I did a couple of shake-down test drives yesterday for the new brakes and trans.  I did not initially install a proportion valve because I wanted to see if it would work with my stock setup.  The front brakes were grabbing more than the rear for sure, but they would lock to the point where the car would not roll and I had to give it a fair amount of gas to move it.  I trimmed the "bullet" piece from Wilwood that goes in the MC piston since I had my brake push rod adjusted all the way in.  After more test drives I got the brakes to grab and then release correctly, but the rears were doing all the work so on went the proportion valve.  Testing the brake on the lift and adjusting the valve I got it to where it is about 80-20 in stopping power front to rear.  More test driving and adjusting to come.

currently doing the same and wondering why you would have to grind on the caliper? Did you get the correct offset kit?

The caliper would not fit on the rotors and were hitting the bottom tab and beveled area.  The shims would make it worse because they would move the caliper the wrong direction.  I did not know about the different offset parts, but this was the kit Wilwood recommended.  I do believe it is not specific to my car or set up, but more generic.  For example, the rotors have 3 stud holes and you have to find the set up for Mopar. 

I did the rears disc conversion for more stopping power but also for looks because I did not like the drums showing through the big openings in my 18" wheels.  So I guess it is for performance but also for the right look.

[Chryco Psycho]

Interested to see what the final thoughts are on the swap when you get it dialed in 

[61K T/A]

I have manual drums right now. I have to lead the car in front of me and not get too close. Manual brakes cant compete on the road with modern brakes. 4 wheel disk conversion are on top of the list then Hydroboost. (once I work out ALL the small details with the car). I would have kept the 11 inch rear drums but I'm concerned about blowing out the wheel cylinder seals. Thanks for this thread. You made my job easier!

[GoodysGotaCuda]

Wilwood users - If you have a manual master cylinder, which m/c pushrod did you use?

[303 Mopar]

Interested to see what the final thoughts are on the swap when you get it dialed in 

I still need to do some adjusting because the rears are still grabbing too much.  So far I have to be honest and am not that impressed with the Wilwood set up.  The brakes are somewhat better than stock, but its not like OMG this is a killer set up and stops SO much better.  They look really good, and carry the "name" but thats about it. 

If I had to do it again, I would probably go with Cass at doctordiff.com for a cheaper set up and not do the discs on the rears because they were such a pain to install.

[GoodysGotaCuda]

Interested to see what the final thoughts are on the swap when you get it dialed in 

I still need to do some adjusting because the rears are still grabbing too much.  So far I have to be honest and am not that impressed with the Wilwood set up.  The brakes are somewhat better than stock, but its not like OMG this is a killer set up and stops SO much better.  They look really good, and carry the "name" but thats about it. 

If I had to do it again, I would probably go with Cass at doctordiff.com for a cheaper set up and not do the discs on the rears because they were such a pain to install.

Do you have an adjustable proportioning valve on the rear?


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[303 Mopar]

Do you have an adjustable proportioning valve on the rear?

Yes I do, and you need one for sure.  This is what I'm constantly adjusting.

[Brads70]

Do you have an adjustable proportioning valve on the rear?

Yes I do, and you need one for sure.  This is what I'm constantly adjusting.

I plumbed one in on my set up , but never used it, its wide open all the time. I'd add in with the things to try, is to use more aggressive pads in the front if the rear is locking up first. Sometimes the problem with the adjustable p valve is it limits fluid going in, but it also limits it going out, sometimes causing they to stay on longer than the fronts when the pedal is released. Another old circle track trick is to use different diameter lines to regulate pressure. Cars in the street stock utilized this trick when they were not allowed aftermarket p -valves. 

I might be in the same boat as you as I just swapped out my front pads to a stock pad from yellow EBC pads as they didn't work so well cold. ( Viper calipers front, DrDiff mustang calipers rear)

Also... what size master are you using?

[303 Mopar]

I plumbed one in on my set up , but never used it, its wide open all the time. I'd add in with the things to try, is to use more aggressive pads in the front if the rear is locking up first. Sometimes the problem with the adjustable p valve is it limits fluid going in, but it also limits it going out, sometimes causing they to stay on longer than the fronts when the pedal is released. Another old circle track trick is to use different diameter lines to regulate pressure. Cars in the street stock utilized this trick when they were not allowed aftermarket p -valves. 

I might be in the same boat as you as I just swapped out my front pads to a stock pad from yellow EBC pads as they didn't work so well cold. ( Viper calipers front, DrDiff mustang calipers rear)

Also... what size master are you using?

I'm using the Wilwood master that came with the kit.  I mounted a simple adjustable proportion valve by the frame rail.

Do you still have the stock distribution and stock proportion valve?  That may be causing the issues with mine.

[GoodysGotaCuda]

Do you have an adjustable proportioning valve on the rear?

Yes I do, and you need one for sure.  This is what I'm constantly adjusting.

I plumbed one in on my set up , but never used it, its wide open all the time. I'd add in with the things to try, is to use more aggressive pads in the front if the rear is locking up first. Sometimes the problem with the adjustable p valve is it limits fluid going in, but it also limits it going out, sometimes causing they to stay on longer than the fronts when the pedal is released. Another old circle track trick is to use different diameter lines to regulate pressure. Cars in the street stock utilized this trick when they were not allowed aftermarket p -valves. 

I might be in the same boat as you as I just swapped out my front pads to a stock pad from yellow EBC pads as they didn't work so well cold. ( Viper calipers front, DrDiff mustang calipers rear)

Also... what size master are you using?

I am not sure if I am following your issue right, but why would you want the prop valve "wide open" when your issue is the rear locking too soon?

[303 Mopar]

I am not sure if I am following your issue right, but why would you want the prop valve "wide open" when your issue is the rear locking too soon?

I have the Wilwood master running the two lines to my stock distribution block and then added an adjustable proportion valve by the frame rail on the rear line.  The valve is only open about 2/3 of one turn.  The distribution block has an internal proportion valve.  Has anyone removed this to make it just a distribution block?  Would this make the adjustable valve more effective?