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Wilwood 4 Disc Conversion

Started by 303 Mopar, May 18, 2017, 12:43:36 PM

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61K T/A

When you install the front brake line on your MC it looks like it will damage your paint. 2 90's take alot of space. Is there enough room there? I would like to see your mock up.

GoodysGotaCuda

Quote from: 61K T/A on May 29, 2017, 04:52:06 AM
When you install the front brake line on your MC it looks like it will damage your paint. 2 90's take alot of space. Is there enough room there? I would like to see your mock up.
I'll get it figured out. Out of all of the things that have come up during this swap, this one seems pretty small :)


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1972 Barracuda - 5.7L Hemi/T56 Magnum
2020 RAM 1500 - 5.7L

My Wheel and Tire Specs

1 Wild R/T

Quote from: GoodysGotaCuda on May 29, 2017, 06:38:09 AM

I'll get it figured out. Out of all of the things that have come up during this swap, this one seems pretty small :)


Amen... :bigthumb:


Chryco Psycho

Quote from: GoodysGotaCuda on May 28, 2017, 06:46:05 AM
Quote from: Chryco Psycho on May 28, 2017, 12:18:35 AM
The reservoir nearest the firewall is always the front brakes & the one away from the firewall is rear you want approx 70% of the pressure to the front brakes

Not quite








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OK I stand corrected , Normally front is rear & rear is front except with Wilwood   :takealook:

GoodysGotaCuda

Quote from: 61K T/A on May 29, 2017, 04:52:06 AM
When you install the front brake line on your MC it looks like it will damage your paint. 2 90's take alot of space. Is there enough room there? I would like to see your mock up.


"Close" fits. It takes a certain installation order, but the hard one is out of the way.






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1972 Barracuda - 5.7L Hemi/T56 Magnum
2020 RAM 1500 - 5.7L

My Wheel and Tire Specs

Chryco Psycho


HP_Cuda


Neil - for a second there you scared me that I hooked up my master backwards.

Went and checked and I did it right. phew!  :haha:
1970 Cuda Yellow 440 4 speed (Sold)
1970 Cuda clone 440 4 speed FJ5
1975 Dodge Power Wagon W200


Chryco Psycho

Sorry about that   :looney:

normally hook up is as I stated front of the master is rear & lose to the firewall is front brakes  unless you have the Wilwod system I guess

1 Wild R/T

Quote from: Chryco Psycho on June 03, 2017, 09:25:45 AM
Sorry about that   :looney:

normally hook up is as I stated front of the master is rear & lose to the firewall is front brakes  unless you have the Wilwod system I guess

Yup, those of us who've known things for forty years need time to adjust to the new way things are sometimes...   

303 Mopar

After taking the above advice and talking with Wilwood a bunch of times we stripped out the stock distribution block and proportion valve and installed the Wilwood proportion valve.  I also found out that the bleeding procedure for the 6-piston calipers requires you to remove the top bolt and loosen the bottom to rock the caliper back so the bleeder screws are straight up and perpendicular to the ground.  The reason is the calipers are curved with the rotor and a pocket of air becomes trapped at the top if you bleed them the traditional way with the calipers already mounted in position.

Wilwood also said that the "bed-in procedure for the pads is critical."  We completely disregarded this when we first installed the brakes because we were having rear caliper mounting issues and the brakes were staying locked up so I was focused on trying to fix those issues.  So we pulled the pads, ground them down with some 80 grit paper, buffed the rotors and followed Wilwood's instructions to properly break in the pads.

Basically you heat up the brakes by performing 5 rounds of light decelerations with your foot on the brake for 5 seconds and then off for 10. Then run a about 5 medium decelerations. Finally you finish with 8-10 hard decelerations from 65 mph to 25 mph and release in-between. If any brake fade occurs, move to the cool down phase which is to drive home with the least amount of brake contact possible and avoid sitting stopped with brake on.  This was an interesting challenge but I could tell already the brakes were a lot better. 

Next day I needed to dial in the proportion valve.  You start with the valve wide open (turned all the way counter-clockwise) which is 57% reduction to the rear already.  You perform several decelerations from 30 mph, stopping in-between to turn the valve two turns clockwise to increase pressure to the rear brake.  Once the rears are locking up before the front brakes, back off a couple of turns and you have it set properly for maximum rear brakes without locking them up.

Overall, I love the look of the 4-discs with my wheel set up and the brakes do outperform a stock disc-drum set up.  However, for the money and trouble of installing these I would not do it again.  I would go to Cass at doctordiff.com and just buy his front disc set up and leave the rear drums on.

Shane Kelley



GoodysGotaCuda

Thanks for the tip on bleeding, I hadn't thought of rotating the calipers up.


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1972 Barracuda - 5.7L Hemi/T56 Magnum
2020 RAM 1500 - 5.7L

My Wheel and Tire Specs

soundcontrol

This is good info! Will go back and read this again when I do mine. Thanks!
If the calipers has an air pocket mounted the correct way, isn't that a construction flaw from Wilwood?
PITA if you have to remove the calipers every time you need to bleed.

Shane Kelley

I didn't have to do that with mine.  :notsure:  They bled just fine. Maybe I just got lucky!

GoodysGotaCuda

Quote from: soundcontrol on July 05, 2017, 10:27:58 AM
This is good info! Will go back and read this again when I do mine. Thanks!
If the calipers has an air pocket mounted the correct way, isn't that a construction flaw from Wilwood?
PITA if you have to remove the calipers every time you need to bleed.

The caliper is not built for this application only, I bet there's a higher volume application out there [Chevy, Ford, etc.] where the caliper is mounted with the bleeders vertical.



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1972 Barracuda - 5.7L Hemi/T56 Magnum
2020 RAM 1500 - 5.7L

My Wheel and Tire Specs