1970 FE5 'Cuda Build

[usraptor]

To answer your question, yes you can use a rattle can to paint the vin plate.  In fact the SEM black landau is a rattle can.  That's what I used. I agree with Runcharger about never allowing the VIN plate or build sheet out of your hands.  At car shows I display a color copy of my build sheet along with a Repo Window Sticker on my dash.  At the last car show I was at a spectator came up to me and was concerned that I was displaying my "original" build sheet on the dash where anybody could grab it (windows down).  I told him it was a copy and he was glad because he had buddy who left his original on his dash at a car show and while he was away from the car somebody grabbed it.

[anlauto]

The dash wiring and dash pad should be assembled as one unit outside the car to make life easier...

[1970Cuda]

Not to seem too slow here, but the ECS VIN plate transfer is the actual gray transfer that the ecs-automotive-concepts offers for sale (and thanks for that tip usraptor)? There isn't a way to save my original right? 

I was nervous about sending out the VIN to have it done anyway, but now that you all have commented, I'll nix that idea and just go ahead and clean/paint it myself. I certainly don't want it lost or mangled during shipping, etc.

And I agree – I wouldn't want to display my original paperwork on my car at a show. Heck, I get nervous even bringing it to a show TBH. People just don't seem to care how much time and money we spend on them. That's an awful story about someone stealing the person's original broadcast sheet. I don't even like the idea of leaving my fender tag on the car; a couple of screws and it's gone forever.

Alan – I'll take your suggestion too on putting on the wiring harness on the dash frame before installing it in the vehicle. I took it off that way, but wasn't sure if that was the best way to do it or not. I'll definitely need a buddy to help we put it back in these w/o messing up other things.  As always, appreciate the great feedback and passed-on experience from everyone.

[usraptor]

To answer your question yes the gray transfer logo that ECS vin plate transfer is the same as ECS automotive concepts offers.  You could try putting some blue painters tape over the Chrysler logo but it would be hard to match the original black paint with the new.  I suppose you could do a test spray of the new paint on some scrap metal and compare.  However, as Runcharger stated, your original is actually in pretty good condition compared to most.  If I was in your position I'd just buy the original type rivets and reuse your vin plate as is.  I think it adds some provenance and authenticity to your car as it's actually in pretty good condition as is.  As they say, it's only original once.  While I restored most everything else on my Cuda, I left my original to the car space saver spare tire and steel rim as is with the original decal(s) and a few scratches alone. Again, I second what Alan said about connecting the dash wiring harness before installing the dash.  Makes it much easier to connect everything that way.

[1970Cuda]

OK – I was kind of thinking the same thing on my VIN. To get the color to match would be nearly impossible. I'll just clean it up (carefully) with some Simple Green and a Q-tip and then just rivet it back on. It's not going to look factory fresh, but it will be original like you were mentioning.

I am also definitely going to take both Alan and your advice and assemble everything that I can on the dash while it is out of the vehicle.

Right now, I am boxing up my non-Rallye Instrument Cluster and getting that off to Redline. Based on what I read on e-bodies.org (and also I talked to Redline today and Instrument-Specialties), I think Redline might be a edge better, but both sounded like they are top-flight in quality. The price for restoring a cluster has really risen over the past few years. I was quoted around $1000 to $1200 for my cluster. Again, I can't thank you all enough for the advice :^)

[1970Cuda]

Happy New Year everyone! Let us hope 2022 is an awesome year with lots of progress on our projects.

I did send off my instrument cluster to Redline last year (ok, like three days ago), so I'll post an update when I receive one. But on another topic since everyone is so helpful ...

Quick question if someone has time ... I looked through the threads, and I did not see any answers to this question (although something similar was posted).

1.   I am installing my polished roof rail (C) and I wanted to know whether I use (A) (non-adhesive backed) or (B) (adhesive backed) foam on the rail? I believe it is (A) that needs the "Super Weatherstrip Adhesive," just on the one side that adheres to the rail, and not the pre-adhesive backed one, but I thought I would check with the experts.

2.   Do I need to install the drip molding first and then the roof rail or vice versa? I can't remember since it's been a few years.

3.   Unfortunately, one of my drip molding pieces has a nasty dent in it (see second pix) and I do not believe I can remove it myself without making it worse. If anyone has a suggestion of someone who does this professionally that would be great. Or if some has an extra for the R (passenger's) side, I'll buy that from them.

[usraptor]

It's been a while since I did mine but I believe the drip rail attaches first and then the weather strip channel.  Hopefully Alan will chime in as he would know for sure.  re the adhesives strips this is from the Detroit Muscle Technologies website: "(2) rolls of 1/8"x7/8" black poly foam to seal between the weatherstrip channel and the roof,
- (2) rolls of 1/8"x3/4" dark gray soft foam with adhesive to seal the weatherstrip channel to the drip rail." If I remember correctly I did use that weatherstrip adhesive when attaching the weathstriping.   Re the dented drip molding you could work that dent out with a small hammer and dolly (I believe Eastwood sells them) and then sand smooth and polish.  However, i don't know of  anybody who restores these but if you do a search on the web site you should get some answers as I've seen people post about getting their SS back after restoration.

[anlauto]

It's been a while since I did mine but I believe the drip rail attaches first and then the weather strip channel.  Hopefully Alan will chime in as he would know for sure.  re the adhesives strips this is from the Detroit Muscle Technologies website: "(2) rolls of 1/8"x7/8" black poly foam to seal between the weatherstrip channel and the roof,
- (2) rolls of 1/8"x3/4" dark gray soft foam with adhesive to seal the weatherstrip channel to the drip rail." If I remember correctly I did use that weatherstrip adhesive when attaching the weathstriping.   Re the dented drip molding you could work that dent out with a small hammer and dolly (I believe Eastwood sells them) and then sand smooth and polish.  However, i don't know of  anybody who restores these but if you do a search on the web site you should get some answers as I've seen people post about getting their SS back after restoration.

This all sounds correct 

[1970Cuda]

Hey perfect, and thanks again to you usraptor and Alan for pointing me in the right direction and clarifying things for me. No matter how many pictures I've taken, I never seem to take enough pictures when I'm taking apart - anything. I saved all of them, studied them and it still wasn't clear .

I guess I'm going to need to fix the drip rail first then before putting it all together - was hoping to get something on the project car this long weekend. Ugh. Oh well ... still making progress though, albeit slower than I want. Appreciate it!

[1970Cuda]

So a brief update on the happenings on the '70 'Cuda restoration. (I must be on the 10-year restoration plan.)

1)   Finished polishing the right side drip rails and installed them. Also, completed the polishing of the window weather strip channel stainless rails and installed it.
2)   Finished polishing the stainless for the left side (drip rails and window weather strip channel), but waiting for one piece of the drip rails to be repaired.
3)   Installed the fuel tank sending unit. (I was told that I should be sending out the sending unit along with the instrument cluster to have it "calibrated." However, after talking with Redline (whose restoring my standard gauge cluster), I was told that was not true. It has a set resistance value, so no reason not to install it.
4)   On another issue on my restoration, my original engine came with my car purchase, BUT it had frozen pistons in the block. After a lot of Gibbs oil, heat and some mechanical advantage, I finally was able to finishing pounding out the pistons. That was hard. It was like a two year project – I am thinking that even if it does not clean up I can probably sleeve it. I have heard that rust can really penetrate the block in the cylinder walls.

Check out a few pictures.

Next I'm waiting for ...

1)   Tinted door glass from AMD (waiting four months now)
2)   Instrument cluster (two months now)
3)   Dash pad (been waiting 7 months now and three phone calls/emails later, etc.)

As soon as any of this stuff comes in, I am ready to install it!

Hope everyone's project are coming along nicely. Keep the faith!

[1970Cuda]

So I finally received both my AMD door glass (tinted) and my Redline restored instrument cluster.

Glass
I was pleased about the glass as I was under the impression that it was not going to have the Chrysler logo. But it does, which is great. I even picked up the side quarter glass too. I have already installed the door glass before, which is not too bad and the write-up on this site was awesome. I just need to take out my old glass and install the new ones.

Instrument Cluster - Non-Rallye (Standard)
Redline did a fabulous restoration on my instrument cluster. I decided to upgrade to a voltmeter, and also to add a real oil pressure gauge. It looks totally factory correct. I do not think anyone would know the difference. See picture.

I do have a question whether anyone knows if someone makes the little Headlight/Dimmer/Wiper sticker that I can replace as mine is worn out. I have looked around and have not seen any replacements. Also, any suggestions on how to paint the plastic cluster frames? I have checked some of the threads here and did not see anything exactly that matched. Final question – are the 1970 frames different texture from the 1971 – 1974? I bought a spare at the Spring Fling 2022 swap meet, which is in great shape, but on closer inspection, it seems that the texture is different than my original 1970.

I remember what anlauto said on this thread and am assembling all that I can on the dash before installing it (re: wiring harness in particular and dash pad). I am still waiting for my dash pad, but I have talked to the person at "Ultimate Rides" and it is supposed to be done in a month. It has already been ten months. (I think we have all been experiencing long wait times for sure.)

See pictures for reference. I am getting excited to see progress. Great to see everyone's project coming along as well.

[1970Cuda]

A two min update on my dash - I installed the new factory correct wiring harness (M&H Electric). It looks pretty great. I just need my dash pad so that I can install the whole unit back in the car. 

[YellowThumper]

If you were referring to the dash steel frame paint, yes there is a diffence from early to later. Do not know dates of change, but the early paint was more "velvet soft touch" for surface finish. My 74 only had a matt black paint.

[1970Cuda]

Yes, and thanks for the response. I was thinking both of the actual steel dash frame as well as the plastic textured dash trim pieces (e.g. instrument cluster bezel housing). From what I am observing, the '70 is different from the '71 - '74.

The 1970 dash looks to be as you indicated, and housings/bezels look less textured or flatter texture than the later ones.

I have been updating them with Herb's Parts Interior Paints (based on some reading from e-bodies.org), and to my untrained eye, they look pretty close to what I am guessing was original.

Thanks again for the feedback and response.

[1970Cuda]

Door Glass:

Starting on the weekend and completed yesterday evening (taking my time to do it right), I finally finished installing my new AMD tinted door glass. I really liked the quality of the glass and it did install fairly easily. I did read over (a few times) the shop manual and the original thread on this site to install the door glass, and the advice on it was spot-on accurate.

If anyone has used the AMD door glass before - which I am sure a bunch of people have - I would like to hear their experience on it.

Now it's a matter of adjustment and getting it aligned with roof weather strip.

Next is the quarter windows.