70 Challenger going Plum Crazy

[73440]

Thanks, may add that to the list

[Brads70]

Looking good! Is there not supposed to be a bushing between the ears on the alternator?

[Dakota]

Looking good! Is there not supposed to be a bushing between the ears on the alternator?

Yes - still need to measure, cut and install it. 

[Dakota]

Making steady progress.

Fuel lines are roughed in.   This shows the Russell 6AN fittings used around the FiTech throttle body.   I don't remember which member posted this approach previously, but it fits great under the air cleaner.   I need to drop the fuel tank one more time to add the electrical connections.   I'll add some more pictures of the line connections at that end later.

[Dakota]

The FiTech needs an engine temperature measurement input.   It comes with a 3/8" NPT temperature sensor.   There wasn't a readily available opening to use other than remove one of the block drain plugs, but that would involve lengthening the wiring harness.   I tried a Meziere water neck extension housing, but there was some interference from the air conditioning compressor (stock RV-2).   The solution involved drilling and tapping the extension housing shown.   I bought this a number of years ago, so I don't recall the vendor at the moment.

I didn't want to take the leap that Cuda Cody has suggested about pulling the thermostat entirely, so I drilled a small hole in it so that some coolant sneak through to allow the FiTech sensor to get an accurate temperature.

[Dakota]

Mounted the a/c condenser.   This was a bit of a pain, most of it self-inflicted.  I didn't have the small bracket for the lower corner on the passenger side in hand when I put the condenser on the first time.  Mounting this little bugger (at least on my car) involves 4 small screws and nuts (2 on each end of the bracket).   There is no way to put the screws in on the core support end of the small bracket if the condenser is already mounted, so I got the opportunity to completely remove the condenser (and the windshield washer bottle, which covers the fasteners for the condenser) and do it all over again.

I still have to replace the o-rings around the condenser for something compatible with 134a refrigerant.

[Dakota]

Just wanted to do another "shout out" to @BIGSHCLUNK for his previous recommendation for buying an Accel 300 crimper.   In the last 2 days, I used it on my spark plug wires (the little deal MSD included with the wire kit didn't work worth a damn), and today I used it to crimp several connectors for the fuel pump and fuel sending unit.  Thanks Bigs!  That thing works great. 

[BIGSHCLUNK]

ThANKS! NO DOUBT ABOUT IT, THAT TOOL MAKES THE BEST CRIMPS OF ANY THAT I'VE EVER HAD. 

[70 Challenger Lover]

ThANKS! NO DOUBT ABOUT IT, THAT TOOL MAKES THE BEST CRIMPS OF ANY THAT I'VE EVER HAD. 

Is that the yellow tool with five jaw inserts for like $100?  I'm always open to getting new tools if they make life easier!

[Dakota]

Amazon has it for $75.  This version has 3 sets of jaws:  one set cuts and crimps spark plug wires, one crimps solderless terminals, and one crimps terminals like what I showed in the picture above as well as spade connectors. 

There's definitely a technique to using the tool so the crimps consistently turn out OK.   There are some details included on this thread that I posted back in July 2018 (it's on page 3 as it's displayed on my computer).

https://www.amazon.com/ACCEL-ACC-170036-Wire-Crimp/dp/B001GBIEIM/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=accel+300+crimper&qid=1564757890&s=gateway&sr=8-3

[70 Challenger Lover]

Nice. Might have to get a set. The ones I use now are weak.

By the way, you're going to love that Powermaster alternator. Have ne on my Vette and it was a game changer. Battery is still like new three years later and headlights and heater fan never dip down at idle.

[Dakota]

Fuel tank is finally in.  I ended up gouging the fill line to tank grommet during the first attempt to get the line inserted just using petroleum jelly, so a new grommet had to be ordered.  On the second attempt, I heated up the grommet with hot water and used the Vaseline again - this time it worked.  At the time, the tank was hanging by the passenger side strap with some blocks under the driver side of the tank so as give a better angle for the filler pipe (I saw this suggestion from another member here, but don't recall who - thanks whoever you are). 

Freshened up the black paint on the gas cap and put it back on the car.  It's definitely eye candy.

[usraptor]

Freshened up the black paint on the gas cap and put it back on the car.  It's definitely eye candy.

I agree.  That's the one thing I wish they would have also included on the 'Cudas instead of hiding it behind the license plate which also makes it a pain to fill the tank.

[Dakota]

Had a full day in the garage today. 

Worked on installing the parking brake cable (stainless steel version from Inline Tube).  I was really happy the slots I made in the driver side subframe connector over 2 years ago seemed to be in the right spot to allow cable movement without hitting anything.  It was tough to get good pictures for a couple of reasons, so what you see is the best I could get.

[Dakota]

Also started working on adding a hydraulic clutch (American Powertrain Hydramax).   The instructions indicate it's ok to put 2 of the 4 bolts for the clutch master cylinder through the firewall hole normally used for the clutch rod.  I didn't think this engaged enough of the firewall (the silver lines mark the edge of the mounting bracket).  I made a small plate out of 16 gauge steel (roughly 3" by 4") to reinforce things a bit.  I also have an additional brace from SST which connects to the front of the master cylinder to provide additional reinforcement. I'll post a picture of this brace once it's in.

I still have a little tweaking to do to the reinforcement plate before things are locked down so it's not tipped relative to the mounting bracket.