74 Challenger with twins

[YellowThumper]

How about some headers.
Early on with a lot of heat, and hammering to form the port openings.
Made several bucks out of aluminum and hard wood that were also hammered into tubes for forming.
Unfortunately these were another learning curve that required multiple iterations to get correct.
First iteration was to build headers and place turbos where I thought I wanted them on mockup motor. Close but no good when installed.
Second version I positioned turbos in car where I wanted and built turbos to them.
Third version was a bunch of nipping and tucking of pieces to tighten up locations that allowed for cold piping to have better routing.
Flanges are 1/2" SS plates that were waterjetted. I provided a new gasket and the company programmed and matched cut to that.
Turbos are offset on motor as Mopar gurus know motor is offset in car. All is symmetrical when installed.

Mike.

[Brads70]

That is a lot of work! 

[GoodysGotaCuda]

Looking good! That's a steel trigger wheel, right?

[YellowThumper]

Looking good! That's a steel trigger wheel, right?

Yes it is hot roll. Shiny because it was wet ground flat on surface grinder.

That is a lot of work! 

Yes it is. Gets better though...

[Chryco Psycho]

Nice job on the headers 

[YellowThumper]

Eventual plans are to go distributor less with LS coils near plugs.
Plan is while I get my feet wet into the programming I will run batch fire but will eventually switch to running full sequential.
I made a hybrid cam sensor that matches the bottom half of Mopar distributor and top half matches Ford 302 setup.
Out with the old, take a bunch of measurements, cut, start hacking, turning and welding and this is what you end up with.

Mike.

[wingcarenvy]

Man, how did I miss this build? I am in SoCal too, small world. I see lots of really nice work here and can't wait to see the final product.

[YellowThumper]

Intercoolers...
Sticking with theme of not cutting up factory sheet metal. These mount in front of the core support passing thru from the engine side.
Definitely sacrificing flow to accomplish what I want. It is however as thin as air in there...
Purchased 2 intercoolers and promptly cut their chambers off. Then went to town on some 1/8 inch plate. plenty of cardboard cutouts later I had the patterns for the parts.
Bend, weld, trim and repeat over and over. When all was done I cap welded the bottom off to seal it. Made a top cap and thread tapped it for pipe. Put on a gauge and pressurized them to about 30 lbs. Initially I ended with a lot of leaks. Mostly where I ground down the weld to clean up visual area corners and edges. Welded and repeat eventually got them to seal properly. Failures in beginning was that I was not using enough heat with welder. 99.9% of my TIG experience is with tooling steel.
The mounting brackets all mount utilizing existing holes in the core support and center latch support.

Enjoy this round.
On a side note, the workbench for these is a 68 Mustang trunk lid. 
Mike.

[YellowThumper]

The end result mounted.

[Chryco Psycho]

That is awesome fabrication !

[RUNCHARGER]

Yes: This is a great build.

[YellowThumper]

Man, how did I miss this build? I am in SoCal too, small world. I see lots of really nice work here and can't wait to see the final product.

Thanks and cool about SoCal. Orange County here.
Will try and hit a Cars and coffee in Corona in the next Month or so....
Going to try and work something out soon with @70/6chall member here.

Mike.

[YellowThumper]

Radiator mounting:
Made basic straps to mount an OEM dual fan setup. Tried 2 versions, one from a Dodge and another from a Fo.d.
Neither will function properly with my controller. Variable pulse. Now have 2 Spal fans and will make my own shroud to fit them soon.
Using dual fans keeps the thickest portion of the fans away from water pump nose.
Workaround is manual on and off switch. PITA but allows me to drive it.

As noted earlier the radiator is moved away from the core support. Made 2 "U" shaped adapter pieces for the sides.
They serve purpose of rad relocation and also adapt the larger radiator to the smaller 22" opening.
5th pic shows first version of brackets where radiator was bolted to brackets directly. After an ugly fiasco with a radiator shop (welded on tabs) that was scrapped and rad is now saddled top and bottom. No direct bolting on.

Small attached tabs in center of brackets mount an A/C condenser.

Last bracket pics have bottom saddles welded on. It sits on rubber insulators.

[YellowThumper]

With the mounting changed to saddle mount.
This is the upper brackets. Radiator is isolated and held with nylon blocks. Tried foam but was not dense enough.
Top opening of intercoolers are just capped off for now.
Last pic shows intercooler opening out the bottom.

[YellowThumper]

With every simple deviation from factory there are countless additional changes and fabrications required.
Simple things such as radiator hoses. Lower hose was able to find a suitable replacement. Upper was not so easy.
Radiator cap should always be the highest point to prevent an air trap. Space and ugly kept me from routing hose over the air compressor.
As with usual, trying to be cheap I started with modifying the factory T housing. This was uuugly and quickly ended.
Enter some heavy wall SS pipe. This allowed for turning OD ends to fit hose. A bunch of pieces, welding cleanup later. 

Mike.