74 Challenger with twins

[YellowThumper]

Because of another thread I posted about modifier v/s customizer...
With all the changes, boost and EFI comes requirements for a full set of instrumentation.
Tach, GPS speedo, boost, fuel ratio and the normal rest to finish it off.
I have been fabricating an aluminum cluster that will mimic the Rallye version having the curved face.
Typical of me not to take the easy route by going flat or just ploping them into position as is normal.
I really like the factory look, so...
When putting the holes in I plan on making my own tapered bucks to form the lip in similar to the factory. Not sure how recessed i will have them. That will be just a spacer ring providing depth that looks good.
Basically it will be like a dimple die. Punch and Die will have to follow the curve of the face so it doesn't flatten out when forming.
What has been made all mounts where the existing screw holes are.
Still haven't decided on a finish for it. But it will not remain aluminum finish. whatever it ends up i will also finish the door card inserts the same.
Not made yet is the headlight switch and wiper area. it will be dimpled similarly.
Also as with everything I have a simple temporary one under dash on the center hump.

Mike

[Chryco Psycho]

Very cool , but you have gone from 7 gauges on the dash to 7 gauges on the dash , only the drop down panel to the console  adds more .

[Burdar]

Nice!

When putting the holes in I plan on making my own tapered bucks to form the lip in similar to the factory. Not sure how recessed i will have them. That will be just a spacer ring providing depth that looks good.
Basically it will be like a dimple die. Punch and Die will have to follow the curve of the face so it doesn't flatten out when forming.

Even with the gauge holes dimple died, you should still be able to put a gentle curve in the aluminum.  When I built my dimple died air cleaner cover, it still easily formed around a standard 14" diameter lid/base.  If you already have the curve in the aluminum it might make it more difficult.  If you form the curve after the holes are dimpled, it should conform easily.

[YellowThumper]

Very cool , but you have gone from 7 gauges on the dash to 7 gauges on the dash , only the drop down panel to the console  adds more .

But what fun would that be? Also not the look I wish to have. Don't want it (or anything) to look like it was just dropped in by necessity. Fuel level was not shown in provided pics. It will be 8 guages.
Amp guage is bypassed.
Speedo fluctuates.
Clock does not work.
Tach is questionably accurate.
New setup requires 2 wire sending units.
I may even cover it with woodgrain vinyl to keep the same basic look.

[YellowThumper]

Nice!

When putting the holes in I plan on making my own tapered bucks to form the lip in similar to the factory. Not sure how recessed i will have them. That will be just a spacer ring providing depth that looks good.
Basically it will be like a dimple die. Punch and Die will have to follow the curve of the face so it doesn't flatten out when forming.

Even with the gauge holes dimple died, you should still be able to put a gentle curve in the aluminum.  When I built my dimple died air cleaner cover, it still easily formed around a standard 14" diameter lid/base.  If you already have the curve in the aluminum it might make it more difficult.  If you form the curve after the holes are dimpled, it should conform easily.

As the plate is already curved I will machine the buck and die to have matching curve. Never make it easy on myself...

[Chryco Psycho]

I would probably do a carbon fiber face instead , I never really understood the facination with woodgrain 

[YellowThumper]

I would probably do a carbon fiber face instead , I never really understood the facination with woodgrain 

Carbon fiber look is what I will most likely will end up going with. Door inserts will be the same.

Now for a current update.
There are always plenty of little unintended surprises when adding all these non stock items into the car.
One such is the hood secondary release latch. When closing hood, it makes contact with the top of my intercooler tank. Not by much and as it is spring loaded, hood still closes properly but is leaving a mark on the tank.
Purchased a spare at Spring Fling to cut up and re-weld together with it about 3/8" shorter so it clears.
When done no one will know.

Second part of update is EXCITING....
When all the EFI stuff was starting, I was using another (old at the time also) laptop for the tuning software.  Megasquirt connects via com/data port (DB9/RS232 specifically). Old laptop had proper plug in so there was no issue. New only has USB. Went thru several driver iterations that alter USB to Com. None worked and I have not been able to connect. Finally I can now connect using a purchased plug in USB to COM/data adapter.
This makes me soooooo happy... 
When I left off, there was a good signal from crank trigger. The stopping point was I could not get the coils to fire. Even in test mode there was nothing. Checked and rechecked wiring and thought all was correct. Finally, with some on line help I found an error. Corrected that and still nothing... I applied 12V to the trigger wire to fire the coils. Belief is they are burned out.
Soon to test again with some replacements.

First path on the agenda is to get it controlling the spark (LS coil near plug).
Fuel will remain carburetor until I can test and calibrate all remaining sensors.

Mike.

[Chryco Psycho]

The Efi system I built used an SDS computer system to run the EFI , I liked it because it came with a tuner to connect specifically for the system , no laptop needed

[nsmall]

Yeah Mike.  Keep plugging along.  Glad to hear you are making progress. 

[Wayne]

Excellant, great fab work!  Love the twins. 

[RUNCHARGER]

You'll be so happy when you solve the issue.

[YellowThumper]

Finished the cut and weld. Bit of hand work cleaning up you cannot tell anything happened. All the way to keeping the lip and stamped look.
Painted it all a non descript metal color(non Mopar correct). All clear now.
On to the next.

[Chryco Psycho]

Perfect 

[YellowThumper]

Back tracking again to the old update pics.
Usual relocation of the battery into trunk. Made a base frame using some 3/4 and 1/2 square tubing from a backyard fence I removed.
Cheap ass that I am...
Battery sits on a plastic base from a Lincoln with trunk mount.
I have added 2 fuse and relay blocks to the car as well. Both from the Lincoln.
Main one in trunk will control all addons to the car. Front will be primarily relay box for electric fans and also the headlights when I convert them to powered via relay. By the end the original harness will become less and less relevant.
With the trunk mount, the relay box is in perfect condition as it never sees the under hood temps or light of day.
Front box took some searching to find one in good condition.
Front box fits perfect in the opening in front of core support. Of course had to remove the Ford logo...
All will also be cleaned up and proper after all is functioning as intended. Plan on making a shelf for it to reside on that is up and back in trunk.
Rear is fused with 100A breaker and powered up with a continuous duty relay.

[Chryco Psycho]

Cool