NorCal 73 Challenger

[nsmall]

Glad to hear you are moving forward.  I am still cheering for you down south as you are so close.  Hang in there.

[RUNCHARGER]

Glad it is coming together. Your original convertor was a TCI? Personally I have not had good luck with their stuff. Good luck with the new parts.

[YellowThumper]

Glad to hear you are moving forward.  I am still cheering for you down south as you are so close.  Hang in there.

And yet another socal cheer.   

[7212Mopar]

Glad it is coming together. Your original convertor was a TCI? Personally I have not had good luck with their stuff. Good luck with the new parts.

Yes. Brand new TCI Street fighter torque converter with less than 5 miles on it.

[7212Mopar]

  Got call today that the transmission has arrived at the shipping depot. I will be renting a truck to go pick it up this coming Monday. My Challenger shall rise again.

[nsmall]

Thats what we want to hear.  Yeah!!!

[YellowThumper]

 

[RUNCHARGER]

That's great: I bet you can hardly wait.

[1 Wild R/T]

First time I've opened this thread in to long... Sorry about the carnage, glad it wasn't worse... FWIW I can confirm your failure was probably the U joint... I saw virtually the same damage 25 years ago on a 440-6 Challenger .... The U joint cap was probably missing it's snap ring, Mopar uses inner snap rings that lots of guys with GM or Ford experience seem to miss... When the cap leaves the cross shifts to the side & locks the shaft... When that happens the trans case gets a huge shock, something big is gonna break....

[7212Mopar]

All 8 clips were installed and in the grooves of the new U joints. May be it came off at the wrong moment when I apply the gas. Also thinking if problem with hydraulic circuits causing gears to lock up but there was no internal damage. This one will remain one of the unsolved mystery.

[1 Wild R/T]

Front U joint brand new Spicer is busted with one cup disappear. Otherwise drive shaft and yoke is still ok.

If the driveshaft & yoke still have full retaining loops and the cap is gone then a clip escaped.....

[7212Mopar]

I know 727 was heavy duty and 904 is supposed to be light duty. But I did not know the 727 is much beefier than a 904 when having them side by side. Pump, front input shaft, rear output shaft and the case are all bigger. The 904 parts looks wimpy next to the 727. CRT packaged the trans so well that it took me 30 minutes to remove the trans from the box. The trans looks great and clean. I should had bought one from them from the get go instead of have my 904 rebuit. I will start transferring some parts over to the new trans soon. This time I am going to test the safety switch to make sure it works in the trans before I bolt it to the engine. I will take my time this go around and check three times on everthing.

The CRT catalog that came with the trans has a write up of the company history. It was an interesting read how father transfer the skills and knowledge to the next generation. Don't see that often now.

[nsmall]

Keep at it and maybe find a person whose familiar with everything for a little insurance as we are all wishing you the best for a successful 2nd try.

[Burdar]

Just opened this thread and saw your problems. 

You're running full length headers so you weren't able to reinstall the factory "engine to trans" braces.  I wonder if that contributed to the issue?  I know a lot of people run without those braces but the factory put them there for a reason.  It sure would be nice to have custom braces to support the bottom of the bell. 

[7212Mopar]

Well, at least my engine is ok. Better fails early then when I am trying to put the pedal to the metal or hundred of miles from home. I think I am over that now and very excited to see my new 727. It looks so much tougher.

Previous owner (probably second) replaced the original 318 with a 340. Presumably I bought the car from the third owner (I think). The car did not come with the trans brace brackets even the engine had the factory cast iron manifolds. I have no clue how the brackets look so will be doing some googling soon and see if I can put them back in. When I am ready to order the new driveshaft, I will get the 7290 U joints and run a conversion joint at the differential, grease and make sure all the U joints move freely. Probably should check the drive shaft angle too.