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Order of assembly

Started by headejm, July 03, 2018, 03:55:23 PM

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headejm

@anlauto I'd like to pick your brain on the assembly process you use. My car just got back from the painter and I am starting the assembly process. Could you share which parts/systems you assemble to the car first? I know everything has to go back on but it would be helpful to think through a logical process of steps, especially so as not to put things on/take them off in the wrong order.  :thankyou:

anlauto

A pretty open-ended question, there no real rules, just depends on what parts you have ready to go....I usually start with one area and work on it until it's finished....Like the underside...fuel lines, brake lines, fuel tank....rear end springs etc...then move on to the next area...
I've taught you everything you know....but I haven't taught you everything I know....
Check out my web site ....  Alan Gallant Automotive Restoration

Mymcodebee

From Resto Rick's Site.
May be helpful.


ASSEMBLY SEQUENCE:
(some variation with different body types)
(from bare painted body shell)
Spray radiator saddle blackout
Rocker panel pinchweld blackout (if applicable)
Front frame rail side blackout (if applicable)

1. trunk weatherstrip
2. body rubber bumpers
3. trunk latch mechanism
4. hood latches & release mechanisms
5. main body brake & fuel tubing
6. fuel tank & fuel hose connections
7. emissions tubes & hose connections (if applicable)
8. inner cowl insulation pad
9. firewall insulation pad
10. swing pedal(s)
11. brake booster (if applicable)
12. master cylinder
13. defroster duct
14. kick panel insulation pads
15. LH vent box (if applicable)
16. E-brake pedal assembly & front cable
17. wiper mechanism
18. wiper motor
19. heater box assembly
20. cowl vent screens (if applicable)
21. accelerator pedal & cable
22. dash assembly (completely assembled outside
of car including instrument cluster, dash pad, glove
box liner, radio, speaker, wiring, etc.)
23. Vent pull cables, defroster & vent cables
24. proportioning valve & metering block (if applicable)
25. firewall brake tubing
26. starter relay
27. forward lamp harness
28. engine harness
29. starter wiring
30. washer bottle & hoses
31. ballast resistor
32. voltage regulator
33. horn relay (Bbody cars)
34. horns
35. heater hoses
36. headlights
37. fender inner splash shields (front & rear of wheel)
38. rear suspension stop bumpers
39. rear seat belts (some bolt tips get undercoating)
40. rear shocks bolted in at top only & compressed
41. grille & headlight doors
42. front bumper
43. front valance (if applicable) with directionals
44. front & rear side marker lamps
45. rear bumper
46. radio antenna
47. fender emblems (if applicable)
48. rear of fender splash shields
49. undercoat wheelwells
50. exterior emblems
51. windshield & backlite stainless trim
52. windshield wiper arms & blades
53. other exterior trim
54. taillights
55. mid body/rear lamp wiring harness
56. dome lamp wiring harness
57. shoulder harness clips (if applicable)
58. rear grip strips (Bbody)
59. headliner
60. roofrail c-channels
61. roofrail weatherstrips
62. windshield & backlite moulding clips
63. windshield & backlite
64. upper control arms on body
65. fuel hose clamped on body side fuel tubing
   with keystone crimp clamp
66. install rear leaf springs front only
67. position rear end housing on springs
68. loosely fasten u-bolts
69. lift rear axle into position and install shackles
70. connect e-brake cables
71. connect brake line tubing & hose
72. DRIVETRAIN SUBASSEMBLE
   a. K-member
   b. engine
   c. carb(s)
   d. starter
   e. alternator
   f. fan & fan clutch
   g. power steering pump (if applicable)
   h. belts
   i. motor mounts
   j. trans & related hardware
   k. lower control arms
   l. strut rods
   m. center link, idler arm, tie rods
   n. steering box & pitman arm
   o. fuel pump and tubing
   p. fan blade
   q. radiator hoses

73. drop body onto drivetrain subassembly
74. connect heater hoses
75. install trans crossmember
76. install driveshaft
77. connect shift linkages
78. install z-bar (if applicable)
79. connect clutch linkage (if applicable)
80. plug in electrical connections to engine
81. position fan shroud over fan blade
82. install radiator & connect hoses
83. connect trans cooler (if applicable)
84. bolt up fan shroud
85. install torsion bars
86. install exhaust system
87. install rear valance (if applicable)
88. set car on the ground
89. install & align door and quarter glass
90. install steering column
91. install carpeting
92. install seat belts
93. install quarter interior trim panels
94. install rear seat
95. install console (if applicable)
96. install front seat(s)
97. install trunk mat
98. install spare tire
99. install bumper jack


There are many different sequences of assembly possible.
Sometimes I'll jump from one area to another depending on parts available or other road blocks.
There are cases where the wrong order will give you headaches though!

Rick Kreuziger
 

   




headejm

Thank you @Mymcodebee! Looks like an exhaustive and complete list. I appreciate you sharing it.  :cheers:

anlauto

Best advice I can give is....When installing the dash....Make sure both sides of the firewall is 100% complete with everything that goes on there in place. Then make sure the dash is 100% fully assembled before installing...Don't be in a rush to install the dash if you haven't restored the gauges yet.....and of course it's easier to install the dash before the windshield.

Also, if installing the engine from below...make sure it's 100% complete....all wiring hoses etc....installed first.
I've taught you everything you know....but I haven't taught you everything I know....
Check out my web site ....  Alan Gallant Automotive Restoration

Katfish

Quote from: anlauto on July 04, 2018, 04:47:15 AM
Best advice I can give is....When installing the dash....Make sure both sides of the firewall is 100% complete with everything that goes on there in place. Then make sure the dash is 100% fully assembled before installing...Don't be in a rush to install the dash if you haven't restored the gauges yet.....and of course it's easier to install the dash before the windshield.

Also, if installing the engine from below...make sure it's 100% complete....all wiring hoses etc....installed first.

With all the cars you've done, do you have estimates of time for certain projects?
- engine
- interior
Etc.......

ec_co

one thing i didn't see on the list is to blackout the A pillars before installing the windshield
Growing older is mandatory...growing up is optional.

Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind.

'70 Barracuda B5/B5 225 /6 3spd ... about as bare bones as they came


RUNCHARGER

Oh man, you got that right. Especially with HIPs like EV2.
Sheldon

anlauto

Quote from: Katfish on July 04, 2018, 06:09:19 AM
Quote from: anlauto on July 04, 2018, 04:47:15 AM
Best advice I can give is....When installing the dash....Make sure both sides of the firewall is 100% complete with everything that goes on there in place. Then make sure the dash is 100% fully assembled before installing...Don't be in a rush to install the dash if you haven't restored the gauges yet.....and of course it's easier to install the dash before the windshield.

Also, if installing the engine from below...make sure it's 100% complete....all wiring hoses etc....installed first.

With all the cars you've done, do you have estimates of time for certain projects?
- engine
- interior
Etc.......

I don't think I've timed each section seperately.
If all the components and sub-assemblies are finished and ready to go, it takes me on average 10 days or 80 hours to fully assemble a bare shell to a running car, then about another 10-12 hours for my upholstery guy. Of course sun roof cars or convertibles are a little more involved.
That all sounds great for my customer's, but not so much for me when you put it in dollars and sense.

100 hours X $55/hr only equals $5500.00 CDN that's about $4300 USD for you American guys to FULLY assemble your car...As you can see, I'm not getting rich at this stuff. :tired:  I would like to know how that matches up to other restoration shops  :thinking:
I've taught you everything you know....but I haven't taught you everything I know....
Check out my web site ....  Alan Gallant Automotive Restoration

nsmall

Sounds to low Alan. Charge more or bill for more hours as its not your fault you are super efficient. 


anlauto

Nahhhh....That's why I keep busy I guess :yes:
I've taught you everything you know....but I haven't taught you everything I know....
Check out my web site ....  Alan Gallant Automotive Restoration


73440

Quote from: anlauto on July 04, 2018, 04:19:20 PM
Nahhhh....That's why I keep busy I guess :yes:

50 years ago , had a friends family who ran an auto body and alignment shop and I asked him the same , why not take longer adding hours and the reply was the same, you get the car in , get it done and get more work that way .

I have been working in construction for 41 years , and noone has ever said , take as long as you want and money is no object.

nsmall

I hear ya. Its just that $4300 USD for a pro to assembly your car after paint, sounds like a very fair price to me.

HEMICUDA

Quote from: anlauto on July 04, 2018, 02:13:19 PM
Quote from: Katfish on July 04, 2018, 06:09:19 AM
Quote from: anlauto on July 04, 2018, 04:47:15 AM
Best advice I can give is....When installing the dash....Make sure both sides of the firewall is 100% complete with everything that goes on there in place. Then make sure the dash is 100% fully assembled before installing...Don't be in a rush to install the dash if you haven't restored the gauges yet.....and of course it's easier to install the dash before the windshield.

Also, if installing the engine from below...make sure it's 100% complete....all wiring hoses etc....installed first.

With all the cars you've done, do you have estimates of time for certain projects?
- engine
- interior
Etc.......

I don't think I've timed each section seperately.
If all the components and sub-assemblies are finished and ready to go, it takes me on average 10 days or 80 hours to fully assemble a bare shell to a running car, then about another 10-12 hours for my upholstery guy. Of course sun roof cars or convertibles are a little more involved.
That all sounds great for my customer's, but not so much for me when you put it in dollars and sense.

100 hours X $55/hr only equals $5500.00 CDN that's about $4300 USD for you American guys to FULLY assemble your car...As you can see, I'm not getting rich at this stuff. :tired:  I would like to know how that matches up to other restoration shops  :thinking:

Assembly of major sub-assemblies is the easy part, all the big money is getting it to that point.  I charge $65 USD per hour, complete assembly and running is approx. 1 full week.  We have an  advantage since we do everything in house and don't have to rely of other shops short of gauges, dash pad & engine machining.  We do all our own body/paint, engine assembly (run on our engine run stand) and all the interior.  I'm only doing one car at a time, 40 - 50 hours of labor per week and completed in approx. 6 months.

anlauto

Wow...you make over $60K USD in labour alone to restore a car......I am doing something wrong  :crying: :crying: :crying:
I've taught you everything you know....but I haven't taught you everything I know....
Check out my web site ....  Alan Gallant Automotive Restoration