DIY sheetmetal replacement... how difficult is it ?

[Jocigar]

For someone that is good with his hands and cars, as a first time around, how difficult would you day the sheetmetal work using AMD parts is ?  inner fender, cowl, fire, under seat, trunk, quarters.    all of it

Would you say that the body prep after is more difficult, alignment, filler, block, prime, paint.

If on a budget and could only outsource one, which would you pay assuming they both cost about the same in labor only ?

thanks!

[cuda hunter]

   Good questions. 

[7E-Bodies]

Most of my experience is from 30 years ago, but every job I attempted then is paying off. I worked in a body shop, machine shop, production mig welded, played with many other e Bodies, then just got back into the hobby two years ago with a great find. I've been in the electrical field for 30 years now. Your question doesn't just revolve around your skill level, but also your tools and work area. You need a good mig.  I tore the butt off of this 70 RT just because I hate old patches even though they were very nicely done. I've never done a firewall, but I'd never hesitate either. Remember, it's only steel, it's not a race, and you will win. Take it in small sections or you'll get discouraged. There's a ton of help here for when you get stuck.

[tparker]

I pretty much just finished the body work for my Challenger. I did the body work which included the trunk floor, roof skin, pulled apart the rear deck lid, replaced the panel behind the rear window (Dutchman/deck filler pane)l battery tray and related inner fender, quarter panel patches, and window area patches along with various dents, dings, and small rusted out areas. I primed and painted it. And it shows. LOL. None of it is perfect, but it is a 50 year car. And like me, it has a few wrinkles, sags, dents, and scars.

If you take your time, think it out, and are handy, it is all quite doable. Welding is a skill especially with sheet metal. I fabricated several pieces and some panels just didn't fit. The worse was the lower rear quarter patch. The rear deck filler was OK, but I didn't spend the time to get it perfect. The AMD roof skin was a beautiful fit. Painting was a bit harder cause you only have one or two shots at it. Not much room for screw up. I got a decent gun and an OK compressor. I built a temp booth, but not sure if that helped or made things worse. I was so frazzled during the painting that I missed some crucial quality control steps. I l didn't see a couple runs in the primer until too late. I should have sanded better between the primer, paint and clear.

It took me a LONG time. I'm glad I did it myself but not sure I'd do it again. I lost lots of free time. If I had money, I'd probably let someone else do the painting, but paint is expensive. I think it just really depends on what tools you have, how patient you are, and what kind of skills you have.

[70 Challenger Lover]

Truthfully none of the sheet metal work is difficult but 7E is right that a lot depends on tools and equipment plus space and time you're willing to commit. I've done most every part of a Mopar now between my projects and helping out friends. A few short years ago, My expertise was limited to drilling holes in metal and that was about it. Never welded or anything. I think like most things, confidence comes with practice. I feel pretty confident now with metal work but body and paint work intimidates the hell out of me. I do know that the better you do your metal work, the easier it is for paint and body work.

Because I feel more confident with metal work, I'd do that myself and pay for the paint and body work. Confidence aside though, if I mess up metal work, I can redo it easy enough. If I screw up body or paint, that's a mountain of work to strip it all and start over again. Plus you could do everything just right but if your paint doesn't like your sealer, primers, fillers, etc. you could have paint issues months or even years later. To me, metal work seems more forgiving to a novice like me.

[70 Challenger Lover]

Something I forgot to mention, price for each can vary dramatically so it's a tough comparison. You could easily pay 20-40k in metal work depending on how bad your car is. Just a small amount of metal work will likely cost thousands. Paint and body on the other hand is easier to budget for if they get to work with a nice clean car after you do all the metal work. A car needing only minor body work and a decent paint job can be had for 5-10k depending on where you go and what you're willing to accept. Granted you won't be taking your car to SEMA but a 10k paint job will wow most car enthusiasts. Plus, if your shop is only doing minor body work and a nice paint job, they shouldn't have your car more than a month or two. Possibly less depending on how busy they are and how pushy you are. Metal work in a shop can drag on for years.

[Cuda70-74]

I pretty much just finished the body work for my Challenger. I did the body work which included the trunk floor, roof skin, pulled apart the rear deck lid, replaced the panel behind the rear window (Dutchman/deck filler pane)l battery tray and related inner fender, quarter panel patches, and window area patches along with various dents, dings, and small rusted out areas. I primed and painted it. And it shows. LOL. None of it is perfect, but it is a 50 year car. And like me, it has a few wrinkles, sags, dents, and scars.

If you take your time, think it out, and are handy, it is all quite doable. Welding is a skill especially with sheet metal. I fabricated several pieces and some panels just didn't fit. The worse was the lower rear quarter patch. The rear deck filler was OK, but I didn't spend the time to get it perfect. The AMD roof skin was a beautiful fit. Painting was a bit harder cause you only have one or two shots at it. Not much room for screw up. I got a decent gun and an OK compressor. I built a temp booth, but not sure if that helped or made things worse. I was so frazzled during the painting that I missed some crucial quality control steps. I l didn't see a couple runs in the primer until too late. I should have sanded better between the primer, paint and clear.

It took me a LONG time. I'm glad I did it myself but not sure I'd do it again. I lost lots of free time. If I had money, I'd probably let someone else do the painting, but paint is expensive. I think it just really depends on what tools you have, how patient you are, and what kind of skills you have.

I agree but i will paint my own cars. The money im putting towards paint can be used for better things. Im no show car builder but my car will be structural strong,look  good unless ur looking for flaws and will stop and go.

[Rich G.]

Experience is the best teacher and you have to start somewhere. Fortunately reproduction metal from AMD fits pretty good. Nowadays there is a lot of UTube videos that are pretty good to give pointers. There's also forums like this that can help with advice if you get in a jam. You'll need a good welder, grinder, reversible cutoff wheel is a nice tool,  plenty of clamps, patience and guts. Don't dive in, study it , take pictures and measurements and start with the easier parts . Remember the piece you want to replace might be under 3 other pieces. Body work is a lot easier then metal work but that's a whole new ballgame. Good luck

[7E-Bodies]

AMD panels generally fit great.  AMD Challenger quarter panels, not fun. They take some finessing.

[RUNCHARGER]

You need a MIG or TIG welder and experience with it. You need an air compressor and some cutting tools and grinders.sanders, body hammers and neighbors that won't complain about the noise. You also will have to spray primer at the least so the neighbors have to be good with that as well.
If you have that then try to make some rust patches for your pickup truck or daily beater and see how it goes. It can all be done especially if you have somewhere to go for advice. If you screw up on that firewall though you will never get the doors, windows and fenders to fit so be aware of what is necessary to do the job properly.

[jimynick]

Sounds like you're into it pretty much the same as mine. The trickiest operation was when we replaced the cowl/firewall/ hinge pillars and front floor. I welded in pieces of 3/4" angle iron across the w/s pillars and down to the insides of the rockers and then triangulated a piece across the dash/windshield/rocker pieces to keep it from doing the watusi once the original tin was cut out. We bonded and spot welded the cowl to the firewall before installing it and even though it went in not too badly, we had to put a piece of 4X4" wood on a floor jack and up in the tunnel to achieve the floor/firewall seam connection. Vice grips are your friend here. Just like woodwork, measure twice- nay, thrice before you cut/weld anything together and Clecos can also be your friend here as well. As mentioned, the 1/4's are a PITA, especially when you go to install the outer and inner wheel wells. I called AMD's installation shop and their advice was to "throw them in and rassle them together as best as you can, that's what we do"! I had to re-arch the outer wheel wells at their bottom edges and clamp the bejeezus out of them to get close. Be advised. Remember that the front aprons have filler panels that join them to the firewall and make sure you either save or replace them. Buy yourself a punch or just pilot drill with an 1/8" and then a 3/8" to make your plug welds. Bonding agents can be your friend here, too and the new stuff does an amazing job. I usually put in at least a couple of plug welds nonetheless- just to be sure, eh? Make sure the car is on it's suspension if it's not on a rotisserie because if you don't and put in all that sheet metal, you may cry when it comes time to fit the doors. You can do this, but get a decent mig and practice before you get right in it. Good luck 

[Fishzhil]

I scratched all my car body accidentally, it's a long story. I was at the service, and they've told that I'm supposed to pay at least $1000 to repair everything, so I've decided to do it by my own. Furthermore, I had to do a lot of work alone with my grinder, thanks a lot to that article that I've managed to choose between the grinders https://toolschief.com/best-angle-grinder/. Once the under side of the body was painted and the frame restoration complete, I remounted the body back on the frame and got the car running. It’s best to do all your heavy mechanical work before painting, or you’ll risk ruining your new paint job.