Door hanging gap?

[HEMICUDA]

@HEMICUDA  More like 40 years, Thanks for the reminder.  God has it really been that long.           And with that being said, I still look for ways to improve, and like learning new things. Peace out and Happy new year! 

Just curious, 40 years in restoration work or collision?  I've never done collision work.

[JS29]

@HEMICUDA  Collision, towing and recovery, some mechanical. I like frame straightening, and suspension work. Refinishing can be a challenge, matching some colors. But I enjoy challenges.   

[HEMICUDA]

Or set your gaps, tighten the bolts, remove the wights, then proceed. Why would anyone set the gaps on a car that is upside down. 

Yea, I was curious, when you gave me the  to what I posted I thought for sure you had more to add.

[fireguyfire]

That's right; your technique is the 3/16" high on the top rear of the door method

Weather you add weight to the door or "pre-load" them, neither method is done until all the body work is done.  Leave the doors empty while doing the body work, then add it to set the door height.  Your only going to move the upper hinge.

So just to be Chrystal clear on this technique, as I am hanging my doors right now after getting them back from a rebuild from Leo ( the car and doors are in bare metal).

You're suggesting I hang the door initially (now) so that the gaps are good, then do the body work.
I plan on painting the doors, hood, fenders and trunk off of the car, so before I prime the metal with high build before blocking, add the 52 pound of chain into the door and reset the gaps, only by moving the top hinge; once they are set with the weight I can remove the chain, and the doors (leaving the hinges on the pillar) and paint them.
Does this sound right?

[HEMICUDA]

That's right; your technique is the 3/16" high on the top rear of the door method

Weather you add weight to the door or "pre-load" them, neither method is done until all the body work is done.  Leave the doors empty while doing the body work, then add it to set the door height.  Your only going to move the upper hinge.

So just to be Chrystal clear on this technique, as I am hanging my doors right now after getting them back from a rebuild from Leo ( the car and doors are in bare metal).

You're suggesting I hang the door initially (now) so that the gaps are good, then do the body work.
I plan on painting the doors, hood, fenders and trunk off of the car, so before I prime the metal with high build before blocking, add the 52 pound of chain into the door and reset the gaps, only by moving the top hinge; once they are set with the weight I can remove the chain, and the doors (leaving the hinges on the pillar) and paint them.
Does this sound right?

Sounds good to me. I knock out the door hinge pins so I'm assured the doors will be exactly where they were when it was taken apart.  You will have to take out one of the upper hinge bolts to get the pin out.

[fireguyfire]

One more question; so you guys recommend have the striker and latch reinstalled for the bodywork phase?

[anlauto]

So just to be Chrystal clear on this technique, as I am hanging my doors right now after getting them back from a rebuild from Leo ( the car and doors are in bare metal).

You're suggesting I hang the door initially (now) so that the gaps are good, then do the body work.
I plan on painting the doors, hood, fenders and trunk off of the car, so before I prime the metal with high build before blocking, add the 52 pound of chain into the door and reset the gaps, only by moving the top hinge; once they are set with the weight I can remove the chain, and the doors (leaving the hinges on the pillar) and paint them.
Does this sound right?

By leaving the door hinge mounted to the body and removing the door, you'll still have to deal with the "in-out" adjustment of the door at the front, the height of the door at the rear should be okay.

What HEMICUDA is suggesting is taking the brand new rebuilt hinges apart by removing the hinge pins. Therefore leaving half the hinge on the door, and the other half on the door post. This method would insure 100% that the door goes back on exactly where it came off.

As for the door striker...I've had a lot of body shops go either way....some insist I provide them with the latch/striker etc... others could care less....boils down to the shop doing the work. I would say if you're doing the work yourself, it's likely easier to have the doors latched in place during blocking, maybe ever the rubbers and weather-strip too

[fireguyfire]

Sounds good; I had Mopar Leo rebuild my hinges and ran this idea past him and he was insistent that I don't knock the pins out of the hinges; they are press fit and not meant to be removed; maybe he will chime in and give his expert opinion on this.

I lied, I do have one more question; the 7 bolts that hold the hinges to the A pillar have 2 different styles; 3 with larger captive washers, and 4 with smaller captive washers.
Is it important which go where, and if so, can someone clear it up for me?

[anlauto]

The doors mount with three different size bolts. Two washer sizes like you mentioned, but also two different lengths on the bolts with smaller washers.

The shorter bolts, with small washers go in to the door on each hinge. Six per side.
The longer bolts with small washers go into the lower hinge door post mount. Four per side.
The bolts with larger washers mount the top hinge to the door post. Three per side.

I don't recommend removing the pins either.

[HEMICUDA]

I don't recommend removing the pins either.

My bad, that makes total sense to me, I would much rather have to re-adjust the door and certainly have to touch up all the bolt heads and possible scratches at the hinge area on the door rather than just inserting two pins with zero adjusting and just touch up the top of the pins.

[HEMICUDA]

As for the door striker...I've had a lot of body shops go either way....some insist I provide them with the latch/striker etc... others could care less....boils down to the shop doing the work. I would say if you're doing the work yourself, it's likely easier to have the doors latched in place during blocking, maybe ever the rubbers and weather-strip too
[/quote]

WOW!  There must be a better way, I need to call "your" body shops that can long block a car and get it straight without the rubber or door strikers in.

[fireguyfire]

Just refreshing this thread as I am starting to rough hang my doors so I can start some body work on them.
A couple of questions; here's a pic of the gap I have on the drivers side; does this look about right for a factory gap?
And secondly is a picture of the top of the door, where the mirror mounts. The areas around the mirror mounting screws is slightly pulled up, which I'm guessing isn't that uncommon.
Just wanted to confirm that the metal under the mirrors should be flat and match the door contours just like the mirrors weren't there?

[fireguyfire]

Here's the mirror area

[fireguyfire]

Here's the door gap

[RUNCHARGER]

IMO those mirror screw holes are almost always pulled up, usually the outline of the mirror stops the bulge from going outside the mirror footprint (if that makes sense to you). The gap looks about right to me. It looks like your charactor line is dead on but the top of the door is low though, this could just be camera angle or maybe the top of the door is sitting in a bit (hopefully).