Door hanging gap?

[fireguyfire]

What kind of a gap thickness do you guys aim for when hanging aligning doors?
I've always used paint stir sticks as shims but maybe I should be more exacting than that.

[anlauto]

Your stir stick is a great idea and likely close...most people aim for 3/16" +/- The cars were never perfect from the factory 50 years ago, that's for sure.

[JS29]

   3/16"

[soundcontrol]

Is that without primer and paint? Or painted and done.

[JS29]

Usually with out, Don't forget to add some weight to it to compensate for the glass and associated parts.    

[fireguyfire]

You bet; I'm going to add the recommended 52 pounds of chain laid in the bottom of the door while tweaking the gaps

[jimynick]

Good luck in your quest for 3/16" gaps in an E body! The drivers door to rocker gap on my 74 Challenger is such that I can stick my fingers under the door between it and the rocker- from the factory. 3/16" gaps are mostly seen on show cars where someone has taken the time to weld up edges to achieve that Audi-ish gap. 1/4" gaps would be better than any original gap and I've seen lots of original cars where there's 3/8" gaps. Having said all that, good luck and I'm sure it'll look great no matter if you don't, achieve that 3/16" fit. 

[soundcontrol]

True, I looked at a lot of e-bodies and never seen 3/16 between door/rocker. That gap seems to be bigger on all. This is my friends original R/T conv. I can get a finger in there.

[soundcontrol]

Btw, when I just checked my gaps, I put the door striker on, I noticed that even if the striker was as far in it could go, the rubber seal on the door made no contact with the pillar on the upper part of the door, (door position looked fine) no wonder it rattles when driving.

[HEMICUDA]

You bet; I'm going to add the recommended 52 pounds of chain laid in the bottom of the door while tweaking the gaps

You can do it that way, we don't, working on a cradle and flipping the car around, I'm not sure I want chains laying in the bottom of the door.

[fireguyfire]

That's right; your technique is the 3/16" high on the top rear of the door method

[JS29]

Or set your gaps, tighten the bolts, remove the wights, then proceed. Why would anyone set the gaps on a car that is upside down. 

[HEMICUDA]

Or set your gaps, tighten the bolts, remove the wights, then proceed. Why would anyone set the gaps on a car that is upside down. 

I guess if you've been doing it for 35+ years with actual "hands on" and not someone else doing all the work, you must know the best way, thx for your help.  

No matter what, make sure the lines are where they need to be during the body work process with the striker installed as well as the door rubber.

[HEMICUDA]

That's right; your technique is the 3/16" high on the top rear of the door method

Weather you add weight to the door or "pre-load" them, neither method is done until all the body work is done.  Leave the doors empty while doing the body work, then add it to set the door height.  Your only going to move the upper hinge.

[JS29]

@HEMICUDA  More like 40 years, Thanks for the reminder.  God has it really been that long.           And with that being said, I still look for ways to improve, and like learning new things. Peace out and Happy new year!