Painting the underside

[soundcontrol]

Black is hell to keep clean.

I know, PITA, I had 2 black Mustangs before. But my dream is a triple black Challenger with a Hemi! Can not resist 

Good tip on the connectors!!

[nsmall]

Okay folks, lots of good ideas you are suggesting.  Now I am more confused.  But I see this a good problem I am trying to do everything once as twice costs to much.

So the media blaster is using PPG Primer.  Should I ask him to use Black primer? I am thinking a black underside sounds best to me as I want to drive this car a lot, Im painting it Toxic Orange and black looks sexy with toxic Orange.

Someone suggested using a "stimulate in the primer"...Would that help the primer last longer if I dont use body color paint or undercoating over the primer on the underside of the car?  Basically I am trying to ask is it a bad idea to only use primer as Cuda Cody mentioned primer wont last long. 

So my underside options seem to be:

1.  have the media blaster coat the underside with at least two coats of PPG primer (but add a stimulate?) 

2. Spray Resto Ricks undercoating over the underside once its covered with PPG primer. Is resto ricks hard to shoot?  Not sure if my media blaster has a shutz gun.  Also, is resto ricks undercoating easy to clean occasionally?  How many gallons of resto rick would it take to cover the underside and wheel well areas?  Also, I am assuming I can have this applied right over the PPG primer?

3. I could spray the 3m rattle can myself, not sure if Resto Ricks is more durable? I like this idea as I want to get dirty and do some of the work myself.  Again, can this simply be sprayed over the PPG primer?

4. If the media blaster uses Black PPG primer, maybe I should just plan on covering it with multiple layers of clear?  Can anyone recommend a good rattle can of clear or do I need to plan on something with an actual gun as the rattle can clear may not be as durable and cost more?

As for the wheel well area:

1. I leave it in the PPG primer from the media blaster and have my painter paint the wheel well areas body color, then consider shooting some of the wheel well are with resto ricks undercoating or a 3m rattle can.

2.  Not sure if this would look crappy, but I could shoot the wheel wells with either the 3m rattle can or resto ricks undercoating before it goes to paint, then have my painter paint my car and whatever overspray hits the area, thats what I live with.

3. As for the front fenders should I use undercoating on the inside of the fender before I give the painter my fenders?

Really appreciate the help.  Like I have already stated, I think black and toxic orange matches well so black underside and black wheel wells seem like a solid combo.  I am assuming this combo will most likely hold up better vs body color for the underside and wheel wells?

THANKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[nsmall]

Top Cat and Sound Control.  If black is such a nightmare, what does a guy do?  Body color?

This is a driver I am building and its NOT going on a rotisserie.  Thanks

[anlauto]

Regardless of colour choice, I think a smooth finish is the best for keeping clean in the future. The factory style black undercoat in the wheel wells looks terrible once it starts to get dirty.... one accidental drive in the rain....and it's over

[Cuda Cody]

Since you really want a good solid driver, it might be best to consider doing the underside in undercoating or bed liner.  Have the bottom side of the car epoxy primed and then pick the undercaoting or bed liner.  They are very similar, but one (undercoating) is a single stage oil based product (meaning it does not have a hardener) and the bed liner is a 2 part system the hardens.  The bed liner should last longer, but is super hard to remove if you ever need to.  As for primer, I would use DP74LF.  That's the red epoxy and will work good with your final color.  There's no need to trouble your blaster to switch epoxy color for the bottom (plus that would only cost you more money buying more epoxy).  The undercoating or bed liner will go over the red really well.  Remember this is not a show car and you're setting it up to drive.  Also, if you're not worried about the bottom of your car and everything is solid and good, you can always leave it as it is and focus your time and money on the outside paint.  Remember, only you need to be happy with this and only you know how much time and money you want to spend.

For me, I prefer the body color painted smooth underside or the factory gray with overspray look.  But both of those cost more to do and probably will not hold up any better then undercoating. 

I would talk with your painter and see his thoughts on how he wants to do it.  He'll likely have a good plan that he's used to using for his way of painting.

[anlauto]

It sounds like you building a custom car to your own liking, so there's no rules....If you're the type of guy that just wants to drive and enjoy your car and you'll never look at the underside after it's finished anyway.....then just go all black maybe a bed liner type stuff ...

[nsmall]

THANK YOU VERY MUCH FOR ALL OF YOUR ADVICE.

I'll talk to my painter as the car will be on rollers and maybe he has a good idea on how to finish the underside.

Cuda Cody...I checked out that DP74LF primer and I think that will be great choice.  Not sure if its more money vs black?  Do you think it will be easier to keep it clean vs black primer?  Should I go over it will CLEAR if I decide to NOT spray undercoating over the primer?  If yes, any clear suggestions? 

As for the wheel wells, Not sure what to do.  Alan makes a good point of it wont take long for undercoating to look like crap so should I have it painted body color and hope it doesnt get all dinged up and scratched?  Im assuming there will be left over paint that I could use to freshen it up down the road.

I will not drive in the rain or on dirt roads.

As for the fenders and quarters I am assuming its a good idea to use undercoating on the inside of them to prevent rocks for messing up my new paint job?

Thank you very much.  I love how easy it is to use this site.  Great job Cuda Cody/your programmer! 

Neil

[Cuda Cody]

Clear and Single stage paint are about the same price, so just paint it with a single stage paint.  You have a set period of "open" time that the primer and paint will bond with a chemical reaction (about 3 to 7 days after the epoxy has been applied, depending on the Epoxy).  After that time you will need to sand / scuff the epoxy with 320 or red scotch brite to get a good bite.  So talk with your painted ahead of time and have your plan worked out.

Glad you like the site.  I love it here, but it's the members that truly make it great!   

[realn96]

It sounds like you building a custom car to your own liking, so there's no rules....If you're the type of guy that just wants to drive and enjoy your car and you'll never look at the underside after it's finished anyway.....then just go all black maybe a bed liner type stuff ...

Not sure if I missed it somewhere? But I was thinking about leaving the dark gray primmer look "epoxy" doing the factory "overspray" Resto rick undercoating the wheel wells and then Clear everything underneath the car including the undercoat ! This way I just put it on the lift and wipe it down once in a while. I know Rick told me I could paint over the undercoat , I  didn't ask him If it could just be cleared instead od paint. But I don't see why not??

[soundcontrol]

You OE guys, why are you doing the factory overspray thing? I see it on TV shows etc. and they are trying to duplicate the "correct" angle etc. Is it to get points on OE shows? Anyone think that looks good?
To me it looks like a sloppy paint job (sorry about my opinion...).
No one is trying to duplicate the horrific welds on the stock cars, or are they?
Don't kill me now, I'm not criticizing it, just trying to understand why its being done.

[realn96]

You OE guys, why are you doing the factory overspray thing? I see it on TV shows etc. and they are trying to duplicate the "correct" angle etc. Is it to get points on OE shows? Anyone think that looks good?
To me it looks like a sloppy paint job (sorry about my opinion...).
No one is trying to duplicate the horrific welds on the stock cars, or are they?
Don't kill me now, I'm not criticizing it, just trying to understand why its being done.

No one wants to kill you. Your in titled to your opinion! I can't speak for everyone here, but I do it for the Fun of it. Its like a puzzle and I want it to be somewhat right or correct. I am not a trophy chases and  only go to local hangout with the car and I will drive it . I have done quit a few cars myself and keep getting more and more refine as I go. Last car I did I painted the whole bottom like Cody did to his cars! The more I think about it , I guess I am doing this way because no what  you do or how nice the car is? There will always be people trying to find something "wrong" with the car. They are not happy until they find something. I guess this must sit in the back of my head? I know you can't please anyone and I shouldn't even try. But I really love restoring theses cars. BTW I don't go completely nuts! I did buy Aluminum heads!

[farmboy70]

 

You OE guys, why are you doing the factory overspray thing? I see it on TV shows etc. and they are trying to duplicate the "correct" angle etc. Is it to get points on OE shows? Anyone think that looks good?
To me it looks like a sloppy paint job (sorry about my opinion...).
No one is trying to duplicate the horrific welds on the stock cars, or are they?
Don't kill me now, I'm not criticizing it, just trying to understand why its being done.

No one wants to kill you. Your in titled to your opinion! I can't speak for everyone here, but I do it for the Fun of it. Its like a puzzle and I want it to be somewhat right or correct. I am not a trophy chases and  only go to local hangout with the car and I will drive it . I have done quit a few cars myself and keep getting more and more refine as I go. Last car I did I painted the whole bottom like Cody did to his cars! The more I think about it , I guess I am doing this way because no what  you do or how nice the car is? There will always be people trying to find something "wrong" with the car. They are not happy until they find something. I guess this must sit in the back of my head? I know you can't please anyone and I shouldn't even try. But I really love restoring theses cars. BTW I don't go completely nuts! I did buy Aluminum heads!

I just like the look when the whole car is assembled.
It also depends on the type of car I am doing. If the car is going to get a stock look in the details on everything else why make such a glaring error with the underside.
With a custom, like my Challenger I did the full paint underside, with my 71 Sebring being stock detailed it got the factory look . To each his own I guess.
Dave

[anlauto]

It's pretty simple really. The definition of "restoration" means to restore back to original. 

I try my best to represent the cars as they were when new, but we all take liberties to make them last longer, run better etc....

[realn96]

 :iagree

It's pretty simple really. The definition of "restoration" means to restore back to original. 

I try my best to represent the cars as they were when new, but we all take liberties to make them last longer, run better etc....

couldn't have said it better myself!

[nsmall]

For the record, I think it is cool when can share our opinions and disagree with each other.  Nothing wrong with that.  As long as we aren't being rude, its great.

I am not hung up on OE, I am brand new to lets call it "refreshing the car" I'm the liberty guy, not restoring to original guy.

I am trying to make the best decisions and at times I probably overthink my work.  That being said, I need some advice...

Cuda Cody said..."Clear and Single stage paint are about the same price, so just paint it with a single stage paint.  You have a set period of "open" time that the primer and paint will bond with a chemical reaction (about 3 to 7 days after the epoxy has been applied, depending on the Epoxy).  After that time you will need to sand / scuff the epoxy with 320 or red scotch brite to get a good bite.  So talk with your painted ahead of time and have your plan worked out."

Assuming I dont want to spray bed liner or another type of undercoating over the DP74LF, can I just coat it with a few layers of clear?  I dont want the cars body color underneath, but I want to protect the primer if over time the primer will fall off/deteriorate.

When I say clear, can I get it in a rattle can?  I'm thinking I can do this before I send the car off to paint.   Im thinking whatever overspray hits the underside that is covered with DP74LF and the clear will be okay with me.

As for the "3-7 day" window after the DP74LF is sprayed, what if it takes like 20 days for my car to get touched by the painter?  Will the whole car need to be sanded or have a red scotch brite pad go over the car?

My media blaster is busy so his plan is to take a week or two to blast and prime the car in sections as he blasts it.  I may also install and weld the sub frame connectors after media blasting and my painter may be busy so it may take some time before the painter gets to my car.

Thanks.