random no start issue/ grinding noise video

[340Rallye]

recovering from the flu so excuse the mouth breathing. also for the sake of the vid I'm kinda wishing I didn't fix the buzzer Haha.

I had to cut the original video to make it fit. before it starts I tried starting it like normal and nothing. I then move it to neutral at the beginning of the video and got the grind. i put it back in park and nothing. when my phone shows the side angle it's because I'm pushing the t handle forward into park while turning the key. I bump the starter and then it's fine. the reason it didn't start this time is because I didn't prime the bowls
hasn't been started in 3 weeks or a little longer. I wanted to make sure it did this for the vid. I've tried adjusting the shift linkage and it's the same.

https://streamable.com/0t7zlo

also,  does my ballast look like it has hairline cracks? I've always heard these things go out like crazy. how did the original last so long?

https://ibb.co/DgSj7FW

[Scooter]

Sounds like a weak battery maybe?

[Jay Bee]

My vote is it's your starter, specifically the solenoid on the starter. I've heard this before. The gear on the starter is free spinning and not engaging the ring gear on the torque converter from time to time. After repeated attempts the solenoid finally pushes the gear out far enough to engage. Good luck.

[Rich G.]

First thing is your shift linkage it probably out of adjustment if can't start it in park. Sounds like it's a starter drive going bad . Check the teeth on the ring gear and see if you got a bad spot.  You will if it keeps grinding like that.

[340Rallye]

sorry I should have mentioned I checked the teeth. none missing or damaged. the original starter had no damage either which I find odd. replaced the starter and it still did it. replaced the new starter with a different one. same thing. adjusted shift linkage twice already. maybe 3rd times a charm.

it does start in park. when it does the dead key I'll put it in neutral to start. if neutral is also dead it's back to park then it'll turn over. led me to believe the NSS is going out. the wires look good and attach well to the switch. I'll change them eventually. but, I don't think it's that. checked fuses and looked for loose wires throughout and nothing except the bottom plug on the resistor is loose and brittle. I ordered new connectors and I'll swap ballast resistors. really don't think that's the problem though. im also going to replace the battery cables.

battery was at 13 before starting. I've never checked it during cranking. when running it stays at 14

I'll slowly figure it out eventually...

[340Rallye]

this car is beginning to be funny.

replaced the ballast resistor. still didn't prime the bowls. I wanted to see if it would crank normal. it almost started first crank. then died when I let the key go. im taking it this ballast blew?? turned the key again and the starter just clicks no matter what I do.

[Brads70]

. im also going to replace the battery cables.

This was the first think that I thought of when I read your post. I got bit once by the "green death" inside the positive battery cable.

[340Rallye]

. im also going to replace the battery cables.

This was the first think that I thought of when I read your post. I got bit once by the "green death" inside the positive battery cable.

someone else mentioned that too!

[340Rallye]

since the car just clicks now with the new ballast resistor can anyone tell me how to do the screwdriver "trick" on the starter relay?

do I just touch it to the big post and the little screw directly in the middle with the key on? if it cranks that way I'll replace it.

[Bullitt-]

since the car just clicks now with the new ballast resistor can anyone tell me how to do the screwdriver "trick" on the starter relay?

do I just touch it to the big post and the little screw directly in the middle with the key on? if it cranks that way I'll replace it.

that's the "trick" .... This should get your starter spinning if the battery & cables are good but does not indicate a bad relay.
  I'm seeing at least 2 issues you are dealing with, No crank & No run. It's apparent the transmission's Neutral Safety Switch (NSS) which provides the ground to the starter relay has an issue. That can be bypassed by providing a temporary ground to the relay. The no run problem could be a bad ballast but also bad wiring or failing ignition switch. You are possibly not getting RUN power to the ballast on the Blue wire due to a bad connection from the ignition switch. Two common failure points are the wide flat connector along the steering column & the bulkhead connector on the firewall.         

[Jay Bee]

I don't know how much play you have in the starter bolts but how about trying to take up the slack by mounting it away from the block first to see if that makes a difference. This was suggested to me when I heard that noise with my car.
If nothing changes then try the opposite, closer to the block.

[340Rallye]

since the car just clicks now with the new ballast resistor can anyone tell me how to do the screwdriver "trick" on the starter relay?

do I just touch it to the big post and the little screw directly in the middle with the key on? if it cranks that way I'll replace it.

that's the "trick" .... This should get your starter spinning if the battery & cables are good but does not indicate a bad relay.
  I'm seeing at least 2 issues you are dealing with, No crank & No run. It's apparent the transmission's Neutral Safety Switch (NSS) which provides the ground to the starter relay has an issue. That can be bypassed by providing a temporary ground to the relay. The no run problem could be a bad ballast but also bad wiring or failing ignition switch. You are possibly not getting RUN power to the ballast on the Blue wire due to a bad connection from the ignition switch. Two common failure points are the wide flat connector along the steering column & the bulkhead connector on the firewall.       

even though I messaged you im replying in here in case it helps someone else out there...

if the starter relay trick doesn't work and results in just a click and no crank. does that then mean the starter relay is bad? is there a dead giveaway symptom when one is bad? like for example when a ballast is bad a car will die once the key is let go during starting. im sure there's more than that symptom for a ballast anyways

[340Rallye]

I don't know how much play you have in the starter bolts but how about trying to take up the slack by mounting it away from the block first to see if that makes a difference. This was suggested to me when I heard that noise with my car.
If nothing changes then try the opposite, closer to the block.

are you talking about using shims? never heard of mopars needing them. anything's worth a try though. I'll look into once I get the new problem worked out and some sleep.

[Jay Bee]

Nope, no shims. Just talking about the play/slack within the bolt holes. Probably not much but, like you said, snything's worth a try.

[340Rallye]

turns out the new starter blew somehow and that's why it was clicking when I turned the key to start it. got a new one and it fired right up. no grind noise *fingers crossed*

if I come off as ignorant it's because I am. im used to working on newer vehicles. I appreciate everyone's help/ patience! battery cables, NSS and harness, ballast connections are on the way. didn't have time to adjust the shifter linkage. so, tomorrow. huge thank you!