Engine lift plates

[Mrbill426]

I am nearing the point where I will need to remove my engine from the stand and am wondering about those lift plates.  I have one but am leery about using it; I would rather it than a chain bolted to the heads but 4 small bolts into the carburetor mount surface of a aluminum manifold just seems weak to me.  Who has used them; any precautions or limitations?   It's a 340.
Ultimately the engine will be attached to a 727 too.

Thanks!

[Chryco Psycho]

I have used them & the 340 is relatively lightweight so you should be OK .
I have the same doubts tho , especially when it is only 4 - 5/16" bolts into an alum intake so for the most part I use a chain into the heads the potential cost is not worth the risk to me .

[chargerdon]

Nope...   I have always used chains, attached to bolts on the 4 corners of the intake manifold...   Why take a chance ?

[Mrbill426]

Thanks guys, I agree, too much invested to risk it for me.

[RzeroB]

Those four carb bolts look just too wimpy for me to trust them holding all that weight ... I wouldn't do it.

[benguin]

I've used it when I had the cast iron manifold on, but with aluminum I've always used one of the chain sets with the crank leveling.  Makes install and removal easier too with the ability to adjust the tilt of the engine.

[Burdar]

I've read numerous threads on this over the years.  Even in an aluminum intake, the threads are way stronger than the weight of the engine.  You need to use the proper length bolts though and make sure they aren't bottomed out in the hole.

[erik70rt]

I use them quite frequently for any 4BBL engine application and have never had a problem.  I always use grade 8 bolts and make sure they are long enough.

[Shane Kelley]

I have been using the intake plate for years and on all types of engines. Never had even a remote issue. I prefer it to the chains because the chains can get in the way and also mare things up like valve cover and etc. With the plate you can assemble pretty much everything except the carb. 

[tparker]

I'm in the same boat. I just picked on up cause it was cheap but small boats and aluminum had me thinking if I really wanted to do this. BUT, this should be a simple question to get answered by any engineer. What is the tensile strength of various bolts and the equivalent of aluminum? I would imagine the former would be very easy to find with a quick google search. Not sure about checking aluminum.

Guess I have a homework assignment

[Mrbill426]

@Shane Kelley @erik70rt...   Thanks... ever use one with the transmission attached, and with cast iron heads?

I have been using the intake plate for years and on all types of engines. Never had even a remote issue. I prefer it to the chains because the chains can get in the way and also mare things up like valve cover and etc. With the plate you can assemble pretty much everything except the carb.

[erik70rt]

@Shane Kelley @erik70rt...   Thanks... ever use one with the transmission attached, and with cast iron heads?

Yes, with both 4 spds and automatics.  And cast iron heads. 

[tparker]

OK, couldn't resist. I did a little googling around. The bolts are not an issue what so ever. There are a ton of information about tensile and sheer strength of bolts. Some have said that 4 carb bolts are stronger than the chain you're lifting with. Others have noted that the bolts you would use on the block still wouldn't have the same strength. This is all basic material engineering info.

A lot of concern is really about the aluminum and the threads. This was much harder to find any info on. Most people used the old "it worked for me" or "it failed for me" test. The calculations are a bit harder to come by but they are out there. Basically when you torque your bolts down they will withstand a far greater load than the motor will put on them. And keep in mind there are 4 bolts to distribute the weight. Although most discussions assume the weight is equally distributed, we all know engines tilt and shift, so we should allow for sudden increase in stress. But in any case, the calculation say that it should be no problem what so ever for the material to handle the load.

Of course this is in abstract. What is "your" situation? Is your manifold brand new? Have the threads been over tightened? I am sure there are a ton of other scenarios that could cause failure. It seems to me it is safe assuming all your material is in good shape and you're not doing anything whacky. We are typically only lifting 500-600 lbs for small blocks and 600-700 for big blocks, minus tranny if your doing that.

Here are some material:
http://www.hughesengines.com/TechArticles/5engineweights.php
https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/us-bolts-tensile-proof-load-d_2066.html
https://www.chevelles.com/threads/engine-lift-plate-on-aluminum-intake.86598/post-583671
https://www.fastenal.com/content/feds/pdf/Article%20-%20Bolted%20Joint%20Design.pdf

[Shane Kelley]

@Shane Kelley @erik70rt...   Thanks... ever use one with the transmission attached, and with cast iron heads?

Yes, with both 4 spds and automatics.  And cast iron heads.

  Same here!  Although you will need a extra hand if your going have the trans hanging off there. For obvious reasons it will be tail heavy, but I have done it several times.

[IRON MAN]

You can buy engine lift brackets. Or, make your own as I have done.