RH transmission - The Result

[Cudajason]

Your getting there...   PS... i fabbed my own new rear crossmember tranny mount.   I used 12 gauge steel.   lots of fun...

@chargerdon - got any pics of the cross member.

and just in case I did not say it before, thank you for the links to the videos...they are awesome. THe slow moving one with Jimmy is very detailed and professionally done.  I found it very helpful with the disassembly.

[Cudajason]

First, Make sure you know what you got !!   On the drivers side in addition to the part number there is the date code.   its a four digit 10,000 day calendar of when it was made.   This is so you can make sure you buy the correct rebuild kit.  I had overhauled the 904 transmission in my challenger first, and ran into issued when some of the o rings simply would not fit.   I have a 74 Challenger, but, some of the parts weren't right.  When is did a full google search i found out that that transmission was from a 68 plymouth...so the part kit i bought was wrong !!    For my a518 first thing i did was a date code lookup...  https://www.e-bodies.org/resources/mopar-chrysler-10000-day-calendar-date-code/julian-perpetual-chart-decoder/ 

To do the rebuild i bought a manual ...ATSG...  but truthfully i almost never used it.   

I basically used two different youtube video's

a) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Hyk_yavD8g   This is a tutuorial and is very slow moving but very complete.   He even shows you how to build a wooden transmission stand (highly useful when putting back together as it holds the transmission vertically and it helps with all the alignments...gravity helps rather than hinders).   He also shows how to make a tool to compress the spring on the forward clutch assembly.   He also shows compressing the clutch pack spring on the overdrive clutchpack.   This spring is rated at 800 lbs but a good shop press works easily.   He didn't bother to show how to make the tool to use with the shop press.   But its fairly simple...just weld together three 5/8 inch bolts to make the tripod tool.  Problem with this videos is that it is very slow going, and it is done on a 46RE  i.e. the newer electronic version so there is no governor in the tail section which the 46RH has, and the valve body is different with more electronic solenoids.   video two shows how to test the solenoids.

His basic statement is that other than the external input shaft play, all of the tolerances inside can simply be ignored so long as you use a quality kit, and aren't trying to modify the number of clutches being used.   So, long as it was never modified the tolerances should be just fine !    I LIKE THIS   when i did my 904 it drove me nuts measuring tolerences...  turns out they were all standard anyways.

b) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Nz_ICxyMW8   This is a rebuild much quicker and less demonstrative but the demonstration is on an a500 not an a518.    I could not find a complete youtube rebuild for on a 46rh.   So i ended up watching both.

Special tools you will need are:
1) Slide hammer to remove the pump altho the second video shows how to force it out from inside without the slide hammer using screwdrivers...   i used an inexpensive harbour freight slide hammer.
2) Good Snap ring pliers
3) Compression tool to compress the forward clutch pack (video 1 shows how to make one)
4) Shop Press and tripod tool to use with it to compress the overdrive clutch pack... again, i simply saw the one he had and made one from three 5/8 inch bolts with my welder.
5) torque wrenches both inch lb and ft pound
6) You will need some rtv sealant for the lower three bolts that bolt the tail section to the main body as they go into the main body and would leak without sealant on them.
7) locktite

You really dont need to take a lot of pictures if you simply, during dissasembly carefully watch the videos and take good notes on any differences...example on my a518 it was missing a thrustwasher and i found out that certain models didnt have one in that spot.   

Lastly, both of these videos totally tear down the transmission with parts scattered before they begin to reassemble with the new clutches and seals.   I recommend doing it in three sections...   I.e. the tail with the overdrive, tear it down, clean, and reassemble before going into the main body !!    Forward clutch pack, after removing rebuild and set asside as a module before attacking the back rear clutch packs.  etc.   less parts to make a mistake with.

I found the toughest part was identifing the correct part in the rebuild kit.   so many seals all look similar and they aren't packaged very well...  Make sure when reassembling that you use the correct clutches, steels and seals in each case... 


Feel free to Contact me with any questions ...   412-445-0969 is my cell phone.

@GoodysGotaCuda you mentioned that you had a 518 to rebuild for your truck.  I wanted to make sure you saw these videos.  Although the first one is on an RE, I found it very helpful!  the second one less so, but still some good info.

Jason

[chargerdon]

Your getting there...   PS... i fabbed my own new rear crossmember tranny mount.   I used 12 gauge steel.   lots of fun...

@chargerdon - got any pics of the cross member.

and just in case I did not say it before, thank you for the links to the videos...they are awesome. THe slow moving one with Jimmy is very detailed and professionally done.  I found it very helpful with the disassembly.

Unfortunately i didnt take any pictures...   What i did do, was i first took the old crossmember that held my 904 and using it, and cardboard made a template to fit the four holes in the floorpan crossmember.    I already had put in the transmission and had it bolted to the engine, then with the cardboard in place, measured how much deeper the a518 is and that is where the big departure is...how much deeper (lower you have to get to hold the a518.    Then marked it and finally cut it to lengther...then tack welded that across plate to it right at the transmission.   

Katfish had emailed me a guide on where to cut the a518 to get it to fit.   If you like PM me your email address, and ill send to you what Katfish had given me.    It helped a lot...   It also has a picture of the support that you could buy (for $300).   

[GoodysGotaCuda]

First, Make sure you know what you got !!   On the drivers side in addition to the part number there is the date code.   its a four digit 10,000 day calendar of when it was made.   This is so you can make sure you buy the correct rebuild kit.  I had overhauled the 904 transmission in my challenger first, and ran into issued when some of the o rings simply would not fit.   I have a 74 Challenger, but, some of the parts weren't right.  When is did a full google search i found out that that transmission was from a 68 plymouth...so the part kit i bought was wrong !!    For my a518 first thing i did was a date code lookup...  https://www.e-bodies.org/resources/mopar-chrysler-10000-day-calendar-date-code/julian-perpetual-chart-decoder/ 

To do the rebuild i bought a manual ...ATSG...  but truthfully i almost never used it.   

I basically used two different youtube video's

a) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Hyk_yavD8g   This is a tutuorial and is very slow moving but very complete.   He even shows you how to build a wooden transmission stand (highly useful when putting back together as it holds the transmission vertically and it helps with all the alignments...gravity helps rather than hinders).   He also shows how to make a tool to compress the spring on the forward clutch assembly.   He also shows compressing the clutch pack spring on the overdrive clutchpack.   This spring is rated at 800 lbs but a good shop press works easily.   He didn't bother to show how to make the tool to use with the shop press.   But its fairly simple...just weld together three 5/8 inch bolts to make the tripod tool.  Problem with this videos is that it is very slow going, and it is done on a 46RE  i.e. the newer electronic version so there is no governor in the tail section which the 46RH has, and the valve body is different with more electronic solenoids.   video two shows how to test the solenoids.

His basic statement is that other than the external input shaft play, all of the tolerances inside can simply be ignored so long as you use a quality kit, and aren't trying to modify the number of clutches being used.   So, long as it was never modified the tolerances should be just fine !    I LIKE THIS   when i did my 904 it drove me nuts measuring tolerences...  turns out they were all standard anyways.

b) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Nz_ICxyMW8   This is a rebuild much quicker and less demonstrative but the demonstration is on an a500 not an a518.    I could not find a complete youtube rebuild for on a 46rh.   So i ended up watching both.

Special tools you will need are:
1) Slide hammer to remove the pump altho the second video shows how to force it out from inside without the slide hammer using screwdrivers...   i used an inexpensive harbour freight slide hammer.
2) Good Snap ring pliers
3) Compression tool to compress the forward clutch pack (video 1 shows how to make one)
4) Shop Press and tripod tool to use with it to compress the overdrive clutch pack... again, i simply saw the one he had and made one from three 5/8 inch bolts with my welder.
5) torque wrenches both inch lb and ft pound
6) You will need some rtv sealant for the lower three bolts that bolt the tail section to the main body as they go into the main body and would leak without sealant on them.
7) locktite

You really dont need to take a lot of pictures if you simply, during dissasembly carefully watch the videos and take good notes on any differences...example on my a518 it was missing a thrustwasher and i found out that certain models didnt have one in that spot.   

Lastly, both of these videos totally tear down the transmission with parts scattered before they begin to reassemble with the new clutches and seals.   I recommend doing it in three sections...   I.e. the tail with the overdrive, tear it down, clean, and reassemble before going into the main body !!    Forward clutch pack, after removing rebuild and set asside as a module before attacking the back rear clutch packs.  etc.   less parts to make a mistake with.

I found the toughest part was identifing the correct part in the rebuild kit.   so many seals all look similar and they aren't packaged very well...  Make sure when reassembling that you use the correct clutches, steels and seals in each case... 


Feel free to Contact me with any questions ...   412-445-0969 is my cell phone.

@GoodysGotaCuda you mentioned that you had a 518 to rebuild for your truck.  I wanted to make sure you saw these videos.  Although the first one is on an RE, I found it very helpful!  the second one less so, but still some good info.

Jason

Thanks! I'm on the fence about trying it myself, we shall see!

[Cudajason]

Sigh...I needed that.

I have been under tremendous stress the last few weeks...I am up for promotion at work and it involves a bunch of extra work prepping a business case and prepping for an interview...well two actually, back to back.  That was yesterday. I decided to take today off. I took today off to relax a bit.

So I headed out to the garage this afternoon and spent a solid 3 hours on the trans swap. In all honesty, the process yesterday left me feeling very energized and excited, so I really did not need the day off, like I thought I would would, but what the hell, i really wanted to work on my car!!

So thats the long way of saying I got to work on my car today!!!

In cut the case today and got it attached to the engine, was a pain but got it done. looks like lots room with the exception of one spot that I will need to dimple the tunnel.

They I decided I would try and modify the trans cross member...but dis I make some sparks curring that thing apart!  It was lots of fun.

So here is when I am now...i think I can fab up a piece out front to hold the mount and get it welded up.

I think the trans mount will work, but not sure I can get the speedo cable on.

I wonder if I move the engine back a bit...just shot the mounts to in front of the ears As opposed to behind???

[blown motor]

You do need to deal with that speedo cable Jason. You're going to want to know how slow you're going when the rest of us go flying by you on the way to Carlisle. 

[Cudajason]

You do need to deal with that speedo cable Jason. You're going to want to know how slow you're going when the rest of us go flying by you on the way to Carlisle. 

FUNNY GUY!!!!  Thats the nice thing about overdrive, Lots of top end, low rpms!!!  Don't worry I will keep up!

[Brads70]

Go Jason Go! Hey that Carlisle countdown timer is right at the top of the page! But no pressure!

[chargerdon]

Jason...Like your idea of modifying the original.   

Me, i made a new one, and regarding the Speedo cable, what i did was "notch" the mount so that where the speedo cable goes in there is "tranny mount" there.   I.e on the drivers backside cut a big notch below just below the bolt hole big enough so that the speedo cable "head" is against the crossmember not the mount.   If you do that then put the speedo cable screwed in BEFORE putting the mount up.   It will wiggle in..JUST FITS.   

Also, the local parts stores had a rubber mount that bolts to the transmission, and has a single bolt in it.   Its what i used...BUT..i wouldn't use it again...instead use the type that bolts to the transmission but on the bottom has two embedded NUTS...with that type you will need TWO holes in the plate you mentioned.   But trust me, its a lot easier to bolt it to the transmission first, then put up your modified mount, and then stick the bolts up thru it.   With the single type that has the bolt embedded, you have to work the cross-member up over it and that bolt prevents sliding it up first.   You'll figure it out.   

Lastly, measure closely...   For me when i was done, the tail of the transmission was between 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch too low, putting the yoke of the driveshaft at a slight angle..   I had to pull it back down, and add a 5/8 block of rubber between the rubber mount and my fabricated member to raise it up.   That meant fighting it up and over into place, to the left then sliding it to the right so that the speedo head went into my notch...not easy with that bolt sticking down, and then fighting the four cross-member bolts in.   

[Cudajason]

Jason...Like your idea of modifying the original.   

Me, i made a new one, and regarding the Speedo cable, what i did was "notch" the mount so that where the speedo cable goes in there is "tranny mount" there.   I.e on the drivers backside cut a big notch below just below the bolt hole big enough so that the speedo cable "head" is against the crossmember not the mount.   If you do that then put the speedo cable screwed in BEFORE putting the mount up.   It will wiggle in..JUST FITS.   

Also, the local parts stores had a rubber mount that bolts to the transmission, and has a single bolt in it.   Its what i used...BUT..i wouldn't use it again...instead use the type that bolts to the transmission but on the bottom has two embedded NUTS...with that type you will need TWO holes in the plate you mentioned.   But trust me, its a lot easier to bolt it to the transmission first, then put up your modified mount, and then stick the bolts up thru it.   With the single type that has the bolt embedded, you have to work the cross-member up over it and that bolt prevents sliding it up first.   You'll figure it out.   

Lastly, measure closely...   For me when i was done, the tail of the transmission was between 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch too low, putting the yoke of the driveshaft at a slight angle..   I had to pull it back down, and add a 5/8 block of rubber between the rubber mount and my fabricated member to raise it up.   That meant fighting it up and over into place, to the left then sliding it to the right so that the speedo head went into my notch...not easy with that bolt sticking down, and then fighting the four cross-member bolts in.

thanks man, helpful as always!   

Any chance you have a part number of the trans mount???

[chargerdon]

I had bought one locally.. at advance Anchor 2360 Transmission Mount - Rear, .but again it was the single bolt type.   Im sure you will find it easier to work with the type that do NOT have a bolt embedded, but, the type that has the nut end embedded...So, i dont have any experience to give you one...but...its just a GM style mount.   Here is an EXAMPLE CLP-9425 of an inexpensive one at $11.99.   Or SUM-7731165 for $9.99 both at Summit. 

The trouble with the type i bought (single embedded bolt is putting the cross member on...  with bolt embedded you cant put it to one side to make getting around the speedo cable and then slide it over... 

[Cudajason]

Little garage time this morning.

Fabed up a simple tool to finish the disassembly of the trans. Need to compress two springs, worked like a charm!

The trans actually looked very good, none of the frictions and steels look burned up. I thought maybe I should have left it all together and just ran it, but the i found a busted snap ring in the overdrive assembly...so I am glad I pulled it apart.

Also worked on the mount a little. I think i can get the speedo cable hooked up.

Just waiting on the isolator so I can finish up the mount.

Next up cleaning all parts up an make sure nothing needs to be replaced.

[1 Wild R/T]

The snap ring in the O/D is a common failure point.... There is a updated snap ring available...

On the speedo cable, I move the engine back about 3/8" by elongating the holes on the engine mount bracket where the engine mount attaches to the bracket....

[Katfish]

The snap ring in the O/D is a common failure point.... There is a updated snap ring available...

On the speedo cable, I move the engine back about 3/8" by elongating the holes on the engine mount bracket where the engine mount attaches to the bracket....

Any pics of this?  My speedo is tight too

[1 Wild R/T]

The snap ring in the O/D is a common failure point.... There is a updated snap ring available...

On the speedo cable, I move the engine back about 3/8" by elongating the holes on the engine mount bracket where the engine mount attaches to the bracket....

Any pics of this?  My speedo is tight too

No pictures... Just pull the mount & bracket out... Separate them, slot the bracket so the mount moves rearward, bolt them back together & reinstall....

Ok, how about a Moroso solid mount with slots?   The regular mounts have a stud that can't be moved so normally I slot the bracket not the mount but this should make the adjustment point apparent...