New TTI Exhaust Issue With Pic

[Daveh]

Hey Guys,

I struggling with installing my exhaust just a bit and I'm not really sure what I'm asking but let me give you the details.  I'm working on my 71 Challenger convertible.  It has a 340 with a TKO 5 speed.  I've installed TTI ceramic coated headers with no issues up to this point.

Now I'm onto the exhaust which also is a TTI aluminized 2.5" exhaust.  I did this so everything would go together with no issues.  Well TTI says to begin at the rear.  I fabbed the two brackets that go in the recessed areas in the trunk floor.  I had the old ones (see attached) and what I made was Identical.  All measurements were exact.  As you know the car was recently painted so I want to make sure when I drill the 2 holes for the studs to go through the trunk floor I do it accurately. 

This is where the issue comes in.  If I were to extend the tips an inch or so out of the rear valance then the tail pipe with the tailpipe rubber hanger mounts won't line up with the brackets.  I've include pics of the hanger and new and old brackets to show that they are identical.  Although I think I improved the look of mine.     The blue tape is where the recess is in the truck floor.  So you can see that it's about 1-1/2" from where it should be.  And as you lift the exhaust in place because it's pushed back it hits the rear sway bar.  I could cut the tip of the tail pipe but then I worry that I won't have enough of the rest of the exhaust in the proper position for clamping down.

This should be way easier than this is and I feel like I'm missing something.  I bought all like components so I wouldn't be cutting and welding and I've spent the last couple of nights just trying to figure this out when I should be done.

Anyone experience this or have any words of wisdom?  Thanks

Dave

[usraptor]

Hey Guys,

This is where the issue comes in.  If I were to extend the tips an inch or so out of the rear valance then the tail pipe with the tailpipe rubber hanger mounts won't line up with the brackets. 

Dave

Dave I'm confused by this statement. Why are you extending the tips our the rear valance?  Is that the stock position?  Anyway, I recently installed a 3" TTI exhaust system on my '70'Cuda and I also had to drill new holes in my trunk pan.  However, everything lined up okay.  My advice would be to "loosely" mock up the exhaust from back to rear.  If you don't have extendable/vertical stands, you can use bungee cords to hold one end of the pipes in place while you loosely fasten the other end.  Also, the pipes can be adjusted forward or rearward slightly within the slip connections between the pipes and mufflers, x or H pipe, header collector pipe,etc.  Lightly grease all the fittings so that you make adjustments easily and a rubber mallet helps if any of the connections get stubborn.  You may need to make several "adjustments" to the slip connections before everything lines up correctly and doesn't interfere with the rear roll bar, axle, driveshaft, ext.  Good luck.

[Daveh]

Thanks for the response I appreciate it.  The tips should extend out of the valance about and inch and if I do that the bracket doesn't line up. Not sure how to address this maybe I will call TTI. I do have it all moched up and that's how I encounted this issue.  I don't want to start cutting on an expensive exhaust to fix it all.   

[anlauto]

If the tail pipe is hitting the rear sway bar when held in position then it has to move towards the back of the car doesn't it ?

Also, turning the pipe slightly will alter the location of the rear hanger

[Shane Kelley]

This is a 3" TTI system.  I think the instructions say you have to remove the rear sway bar. That's what it said on my 71 Cuda instructions. Also I think 1 1/2 inches is hanging out to far.    Maybe these pics will help you.

[1 Wild R/T]

I think if they want the rear say bar removed I'd be sending the exhaust back...    

[GoodysGotaCuda]

My Hotchkis rear bar fits, but it runs below the axle housing.


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[Shane Kelley]

I'm pretty sure my instructions said it wouldn't clear but their footnotes on website say it will. I run the Hotchkis myself so that's not a issue for me.

[Daveh]

TTI said the exhaust should be about 1/2" from the sway bar.  I'm just going to have to work it a little more the valance is new and so is the trunk even though they lined up perfectly before I burned them in I'm sure they aren't like the originals.  Thanks guys. 

[RUNCHARGER]

As Alan said, you can gain slight clearance by twisting the tailpipes sometimes. I had a generic locally made 3 inch setup for a B-body I used on my orange 70. After I shortened the tailpipes to fit it worked way better than the TTI pipes I used on my Green car. I used the rear sway bar in the orange car as well.

[7212Mopar]

I just installed the TTI 2.5" Xpipe exhaust system on my 73 with a 340 and TTI long tube headers. It will clear the rear sway bar. Also I got the rear hanger inserted all the way against the ben and the exhaust tips stick out the rear valence just like the original. You should be able to adjust the tips in and out independently since it is just a slip joints. I am using tips from Accurate exhaust since TTI tips is too expensive for me. Looks like you might have the rear pipes too far forward to the front of the car. Did you check left and right sides of the rear pipes?

On the side, my car has the X pipe section hanging way too low for my taste. I have another thread on this in the exhaust section. I am going to take it apart for the third time this weekend to see if I can raise it. If you have not gotten that far, follow what others have done by keeping every joint loose and jack the xpipe gently up to see how high you can get it sit before tightening the clamps. I will be doing the same soon. Good luck.