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Want to learn to Paint

Started by erik70rt, August 25, 2020, 09:41:11 AM

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DeathProofCuda

I'm in a similar situation as the OP, so am watching this thread with interest.

A related question that have is whether it makes sense to first try painting smaller parts with a gun and catalyzed paint in order to get some experience using a gun and mixing paint, or is it just more hassle than it is worth to use "real" paint for small parts and should I instead just continue using rattle cans?  If using catalyzed paint makes sense, is there a good "all-around" satin or semi-gloss black that would be good for painting seat frames, suspension parts, and other miscellaneous black parts?

JS29

@DeathProofCuda Practice is always good! Tractor supply has a good product called magix implement paint. catalyzed is always better than rattle can paint.  :alan2cents: 

DeathProofCuda

Quote from: JS29 on August 26, 2020, 02:40:34 PM
@DeathProofCuda Practice is always good! Tractor supply has a good product called magix implement paint. catalyzed is always better than rattle can paint.  :alan2cents:

Thanks for the recommendation.  That looks like a good option for learning to spray without breaking the bank.  :cheers:


PLY474

Quote from: JS29 on August 26, 2020, 02:40:34 PM
@DeathProofCuda Practice is always good! Tractor supply has a good product called magix implement paint. catalyzed is always better than rattle can paint.  :alan2cents:

Thank you, JS29.  $29.99 a gallon.  More info here including available colors.  https://www.majicpaints.com/tractor-supply-co/
No semi-gloss black.  Maybe mix matte and gloss black?   :dunno:  Sounds like a cheap experiment.

JS29

@PLY474  Matte black is semi-gloss. There is a flatting agent available if it is not to your liking, but matte should be fine. 

PLY474

@JS29  I appreciate that.  I'll go with the Matte.  I also read the Majic Catalyst Hardener adds about 10% Gloss.  https://www.majicpaints.com/catalyst-hardener-reducer/   

Looks like Rural King sells Majic paint too.

pink aar

Can I give you a idea before you waste your money.  I was shown in body shop school before you ever pull the trigger on a paint . Get the gun you are going to use and practice with water on the side of a car with making the water run. If you can  do that  you can paint anything,


wldgtx

I am going to weigh in here.

My advice is multi-part.

Note: IF you are looking to just dip your toes into the water, then my advice may not be the right advice.

1. I use 4 different guns. (Clearcoat, color, primer, small/detail)
     a. This may be considered overkill, and that's fine.  My clear gun is the most expensive, followed by the color gun and so on.
2. Make sure you have a pressure gauge on your gun (they are cheap to add) so you can know for sure what pressure you are spraying.
3. For primer, it is hard to mess up.  Just follow the mix and setup instructions (every brand is different).
4. Basecoat metallics or pearls are harder as the pressure and flow will dictate how the flake will stand up and create the "brilliance" or "flop"
      a. I personally like to mix all of the paint for everything you are painting first, this will help increase consistency provided what is getting painted.  Assuming you are planning on completion within pot life time span.
5. Don't be afraid of mistakes, but learn from them when you make them.  Even professionals get orange peel and occasional runs, learn how to deal with them and don't panic.
6. Assuming you get to the point of clear.  I have had the most success when I lay my first coat rather thin and let it flash then I come back for a heavier coat and keep a wet edge while spraying.

Everything I said is a good starting point, but IMO it just comes down to prep and practice.  Learning to dial the gun in for pressure, mixture, flow, etc. is important and then it just comes down to going for it.

There are tons of youtube videos out there that can give you plenty of tips, but practice and getting comfortable will increase the quality of the outcome.
Good Luck.
1968 Hemi GTX, 4 spd, RR1
1970 Challenger RT/SE, FC7 - FC7RTSE
1987 Buick Grand National

DeathProofCuda

I'm still trying to understand all of the different paint products that typically get used for an auto restoration project.  Am I wrong in thinking that most, if not all, of the activated paint systems contain isocyanates?  If so, what are average home hobbyists doing to prevent killing themselves?  3M recommends supplied air respirators for spraying isocyanate paints, and even Summit's tech sheets say that their paints are for professional use and should be applied in a spray booth.  However, most of the paint videos I watch show guys spraying with a simple half-face air purifying respirator.

wldgtx

Quote from: DeathProofCuda on August 31, 2020, 09:44:37 AM
I'm still trying to understand all of the different paint products that typically get used for an auto restoration project.  Am I wrong in thinking that most, if not all, of the activated paint systems contain isocyanates?  If so, what are average home hobbyists doing to prevent killing themselves?  3M recommends supplied air respirators for spraying isocyanate paints, and even Summit's tech sheets say that their paints are for professional use and should be applied in a spray booth.  However, most of the paint videos I watch show guys spraying with a simple half-face air purifying respirator.

DPC - I have a suit that I wear when painting a car as well as a full helmet style respirator, but I also (and most times) use a 3M half face unit with the correct cartridges for protection and replace them often as needed.  This goes back to what you are spraying,  standard primer (non epoxy based/sealer), basecoat is fine to use the 3M, but I am very cautious when spraying epoxy primer or clearcoat, including gloves eye protection, etc.

1968 Hemi GTX, 4 spd, RR1
1970 Challenger RT/SE, FC7 - FC7RTSE
1987 Buick Grand National

rftroy

https://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/777847O/isocyanates-3m-techupdate.pdf

https://us.ppgrefinish.com/Training/Tech-Tips/Guides-Manuals/Custom-Restoration-Guide

https://www.grainger.com/know-how/health/airborne-contaminants-noise-hazards/respiratory-protection/kh-233-isocyanate-qt

I'm going to be the Grinch here.
I strongly urge you to read the sources I've linked above.  Read the safety section in the PPG refinish guide; it's on page 8. (Also, the rest of the guide has excellent information and advice.)
You will find arguments on various sites, including autobodystore.com which is an excellent one, for and against using charcoal masks for isocyanates.  You need to note, it's like many substances and allergens, not everyone has the same reaction to isocyanates. so if you read someone who says,"I've been using isocyanates for 30 years with just a mask, and I'm fine.",take it in context with the information linked above.
And it's not just a mask. Isocyanates will cause reaction if they get on your skin, and worse in your eyes.  It can get through the eye's membrane's into your system.
I was buying paint for one of my cars once, and the guy behind the counter was wheezing and hacking. He used to be a painter. But he just used a regular charcoal mask, had multiple isocyanate exposures, and his lungs were ruined.  He could no longer paint without risk of an extremely serious reaction.  Think how much money this guy is making selling paint over-the-counter compared to what he would make if he was still painting cars.
The owner of the last booth I rented was also wheezing and hacking, but still working and wearing only a simple mask.
If you're painting in the garage at home, you need to have a really effective way of evacuating the vapors, or you'll saturate that mask really fast.
So when you do that, who lives next-door?  How many kids are in the neighborhood?

Do your research based on reputable sources, and make the decision that fits your situation.
Good luck.
Robert
70 Challenger. On rotisserie. 505, Six Pack, 5SR A-855 5-speed, 3.55, B7 blue;
AAR, 4-speed, 3.91, Tor-Red;
70 440 6 pack Roadrunner, 4-speed, 3.54, Plum Crazy;
68 Formula S conv, 383, 4-speed, 3.23, Electric Blue;
69 Barracuda conv, Slant 6, OD4, 2.94, 71 B5 blue;
78 Lil' Red Truck, Red


DeathProofCuda

Thank you Robert.  Lots of good information to consider there.  That autobodystore.com forum is an interesting place to lurk around.   :cheers:

Cuda70-74

Prep work is key meaning your bodywork skills. The more level the panel is the better you're results will be when you paint the car.
I bought 2 of these harbor freight guns one only for epoxy primer and the other for 2k primer only.
https://www.harborfreight.com/20-oz-hvlp-gravity-feed-air-spray-gun-62300.html
I bought these 2 husky guns from homedepot and 1 is for paint and the other is just for clear coat.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-HVLP-and-Standard-Gravity-Feed-Spray-Gun-Kit-HDK00600SG/203497812
1969 mustang
1974 cuda turnt into a 71 cuda
1968 charger