Distributor Gear Clocking

[Barracudamuscle]

Hello,

I decided to upgrade my old points system to a MSD 8388 RTR distributor. I pulled the old one off not seeing any marks.

I've gone through the static timing procedure a few times and keep getting the same results...when cylinder 1 is TDC, confirmed with the harmonic balancer mark on the timing cover being zero the slot is essentially pointing forward not towards the cylinder/intake stud as I read online everyone else does.

Is there a easy way to reclock this, is this I'm just time it accordingly? Or does this indicate another issue?

I've turned the engine through and confirmed the compression stroke, chilton says to ensure Cyl 6 isn't TDC, it looks like it's pretty close to TDC.

[YellowThumper]

The gear you are showing down in the hole will pull up and turn slightly as it disengages from cam gear. Lift up rotate as necessary and drop back in place.

Mike.

[Barracudamuscle]

Awesome! Thanks for the fast reply Mike! I pulled on it some but it didn't move, I'll give her the ole yank and tug to fix it.

Not sure why it was off, this isn't a new build, just hasn't ran in a few years.

Unrelated to this question, I found some concerning noise when turning it through though that I have to investigate further. It sounds like when rotating it through the crank is contacting/rubbing the oil pan at a point.

I'm scared what I'll find but I hope to drop the pan tomorrow and see what's up.

[Cudakiller70]

You can leave the slot where it's at. Just make sure where rotor points to on the distributor cap is your #1 cylinder wire following in proper order. Theoretically #1 can be any where as long as firing order is correct and your wires work/reach.

[Cudakiller70]

Unrelated to this question, I found some concerning noise when turning it through though that I have to investigate further. It sounds like when rotating it through the crank is contacting/rubbing the oil pan at a point.

I'm scared what I'll find but I hope to drop the pan tomorrow and see what's up.

Before dropping the pan, if it was running before. Check pulleys and flywheel for rubbing.

[Barracudamuscle]

You can leave the slot where it's at. Just make sure where rotor points too on the distributor cap is your #1 cylinder wire following in proper order. Theoretically #1 can be any where as long as firing order is correct and your wires work/reach.

Thanks for the advice and the diagram to go with it! It seems like it may fit better and allow more room for adjustment with a reclocking of the gear. But I may leave it we'll see.

[YellowThumper]

If you have to drop pan...
Some state you can pull the pan without pulling the motor. I could not on my 74. Had to lift it up a bit. Just unbolted mounts and left everything els attached as you only have to go up a small amount. Be careful of the fan and shroud if you have one.

Here is a link to my build and my redneck way of lifting engine without a hoist. Good luck.

https://forum.e-bodies.org/your-restoration-project-roseville-moparts/10/74-challenger-with-twins/9837/30

Mike.

[Barracudamuscle]

Unrelated to this question, I found some concerning noise when turning it through though that I have to investigate further. It sounds like when rotating it through the crank is contacting/rubbing the oil pan at a point.

I'm scared what I'll find but I hope to drop the pan tomorrow and see what's up.

Before dropping the pan, if it was running before. Check pulleys and flywheel for rubbing.

Ah, that very well could be what's up. I don't have all the belts on, just the power steering. The alternator belt is off since I'm awaiting a radiator to install, then the fan clutch and belt. I had the transmission rebuilt about 5 years ago by a shop and it has maybe 40 miles on it so maybe something back there.

[Cudakiller70]

I was able to drop my oil pan by removing idler arm and disconnecting tie rod then swinging out center link steering arm.

[YellowThumper]

You can leave the slot where it's at. Just make sure where rotor points too on the distributor cap is your #1 cylinder wire following in proper order. Theoretically #1 can be any where as long as firing order is correct and your wires work/reach.

Thanks for the advice and the diagram to go with it! It seems like it may fit better and allow more room for adjustment with a reclocking of the gear. But I may leave it we'll see.

Yes also as Cudakiller noted works. I have gone that route also.
Really depends on where your vacuum advance ends up pointing. Rotation of gear gives you smaller degrees of rotation per tooth over rotating wires on the cap.
May need a combination of both.

[Barracudamuscle]

An update: I reclocked the gear to the normal orientation for the distributor.

Added bonus: I took of the fly wheel cover on the bell housing(called the splash guard?) and rotated the engine with no noise. Looked it over and bent any suspicious areas flat or slightly outward. No more noise!

I was able to install the distributor and make the plug wires today.

Thanks again,
Pat

[YellowThumper]

Great to hear. Fingers crossed on the fireup.