Dash Removal in the words of Alan

[nsmall]

Stole this from the Internet.  It was posted in 2013.

I've done about 20 E Body dash pads recently. The trick is to remove the dash assembly as a whole, restore it, then re-install it as a whole.

Here are 26 easy steps:

1)Open Hood
1.5) Dis-connect battery
2)Remove four plugged wire harnesses from bulk head
3)Remove two nuts holding bulkhead in place
4)Open doors
5)Remove A pillar trim and associated trim
6)Remove Kick Panels and associated trim
7)Unplug both door jamb light switches
8)Unplug E Brake warning wire
9)Unplug tail light harness
10)Unplug dimmer Switch
11)Reach up and unplug heater box
12)Unplug console light
13)Disconnect antenna
14)At the heater control, disconnect both heater cables
15)Unplug both steering column harnesses
16)Unplug brake pedal switch, both wires
17)Undo both vent cables and let them hang
18)Remove 3 steering column bolts at firewall
19)Remove to nuts on steering column at the dash
20)Lower column and allow to hang
21)Remove 4 bolts at windshield using a 1/4 drive flex
22)Remove 2 bolts at door pillars
23) Disconnect speedometer cable.
24)Prepare for a heavy dash to fall on your lap
25)Yell to wife for help
26) Have a cold beer, you're done

Im taking out the front glass so I am thinking this should be fairly easy. Did Alan miss anything?

Thanks Alan

PS Maybe you all know this but I just found out from the Ultimate Rides guy Alan that you NEVER USE ARMOR-
ALL on your dash or really any parts of your interior as it TRAPS the UV RAYS CAUSING DAMAGE.  He recommended using Pledge (furniture cleaner).  Thanks

[Chryco Psycho]

looks right except I do not remove the 2 bolts at he door pillars , the lower dash mounts are slotted so the dash can sit on these bolts once  the 4 bolts in the defroster are removed the dash will lift right off of the lower dash bolts , this also helps with  installing the ash s it can be set onto the same lower bolts & lifted up to align the 4 defroster bolts

[1 Wild R/T]

looks right except I do not remove the 2 bolts at he door pillars , the lower dash mounts are slotted so the dash can sit on these bolts once  the 4 bolts in the defroster are removed the dash will lift right off of the lower dash bolts , this also helps with  installing the ash s it can be set onto the same lower bolts & lifted up to align the 4 defroster bolts

For that to work when you preform step 19 you should have double nutted the studs & removed the studs too rather than just the nuts..... And yes, thats how I do it too....

[anlauto]

Wow...that's old

[1 Wild R/T]

Wow...that's old

Like we're not?  But still has value to those who haven't been there yet..... So thanks for typing it all up so the rest of us wouldn't have to...

[anlauto]

Yea...don't know what I was thinking...must have had a lot of time on my hands.....

[Spikedog08]

Definitely some good information there!   

[Cuda Cody]

That's a great list...  thanks for writing it all down!!!!!   

[Shoooter]

I'm building my dash and getting it ready for install. What all do you put on the frame and what is left off until it's in the car? It's a a.c. car so there are a few more things to be put on.

[Cuda Cody]

I've not done an AC car, but EVERYTHING goes on my dashes before they go in the car.  As much as you can put on now will make it a lot easier later. 

[anlauto]

I'm with Cody...before the dash goes in, the firewall behind the dash is 100% complete. The dash assembly while on the bench is 100% complete.. Just install, hook up a few wires and cables and you're all set

[Shoooter]

Dash pad is the last to go on? Or is there pieces around the gauges that are last?

[1 Wild R/T]

Pad goes on dash frame first... Then wiring, gauges, ducts, trim and so on... You install the dash as a complete assembly....

[Cuda Cody]

   Dash pad is the 1st item you put on the dash frame.

[anlauto]

Pad first for sure.