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Interior Plastic Restoration Journey

Started by kawahonda, October 21, 2020, 05:57:24 PM

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kawahonda

One thing that seems to be very mysterious about these cars is what to do with $hitty interior panels. Scratchy, faded, caulked up stuff. There's not a lot of information on the web about what to do. Opinions range from "just deal with them as-is" to "can never be fixed" to "replace them" to "look for original panels in great condition." Essentially, there's no consistency. Let alone, not much pictures of someone trying and documenting what happens.

Today on eBodies FB group, I learned of a method by Jeff S on how he restores faded, chalked, and scratched interior panels. We talked today for awhile, and something then clicked for me--"This sounds a lot like auto body work" which is something I'm pretty good at. My mental block was initially envisioning spot-repairing the panel--all those little scratches, scuffs, imperfections, chalked areas, and THEN and then worrying about how to "blend it all in together" back to the original grain profile. This seems daunting if not even impossible. I don't even think an interior specialist could do this how I was thinking about it. For example, JustDashes wraps a layer over your panel (which is no small feat either).

What clicked for me is the fact that the process I am about to use (thanks again to Jeff) treats the panel as a clean slate. This means everything needs to be retextured. But that also means that everything can be fixed. Texture of course is the elephant in the room, but if you have texture that is close enough, then it doesn't matter.

I wanted to get this thread in place because I will soon start adding to it in a week or so. Tag along with me for my journey of restoring Ebody interior panels, because from what I've seen and the process that I just learned, I think it can be made to look at least 8/10. I'm doing much more than then the "scuff and shoot" here fellas. I'm aiming to do something that is show-capable. Just note that I'm signing up for 8/10, but if you guys know me I always aim to exceed my goal.  :waving:

I will be restoring (in order):

1) Driver's rear interior panel
2) Driver and passenger seatbacks
3) Driver and passenger door panels.

I already have most of the materials needed. Several materials are on order....and it's all the good stuff. :)

Stay tuned. Failures are just as important as successes. We all learn from it either way.
1970 Dodge Challenger A66

anlauto

I've taught you everything you know....but I haven't taught you everything I know....
Check out my web site ....  Alan Gallant Automotive Restoration

kawahonda

OK, here's a teaser.

I took a guitar pick and "strummed' 4 separate areas of the driver's rear panel. Good news: I was able to reach shiny plastic underneath without too much effort. Bad news: it's pretty much the whole panel that needs sanding.

Applying a flexible filler by hand is going to be pretty stupid to do on this panel. I am currently researching what is similar to poly-flex but can be used in sprayable form. What we want to do here is when I get to sanding all the disintegrated plastic off that we want to build up the thickness back to near where it was stock.

Most panels are going to need sprayable filler treatment. I can reveal shinny spots in everything I tried tonight.

I'm getting more excited for this challenge, can't you tell? :)
1970 Dodge Challenger A66


soundcontrol

 :popcorn:

Cant wait to see what your'e gonna do for texture!

kawahonda

Removed the piece and took an initial thickness measurement.
1970 Dodge Challenger A66

kawahonda

First step begins with hitting it over, and over, and over again with 180 until it doesn't leave much "powder" anymore. You want to get rid of all the white. This is about a 2 hour task for this piece. Very labor intensive.

I started off using blocks, but not needed. I eventually just used my fingers/hand at even pressure. The sand paper will clog up in a hurry, so keep a compressor near by for cleaning the panel and your sandpaper. Also, absolutely wear a mask. You will definitely want a roll of 180 available, not just sheets.

All those scratches are simply just into the top deteriorated section. They will all sand away.
1970 Dodge Challenger A66

kawahonda

Scratch at it with your nail if you're not sure. Once you can't easily leave a scratch, you're done. This panel sucks because there's just lots of nooks and crannies.

First picture shows a finished section. You cannot leave a scratch, and you can see that some undisturbed (non-chalked) texture was left behind. Leave it!

Sand the flange areas to assure no faded as occurred on those. In my case, there was some.

Areas that were tucked under the seat are solid. Just needs a good cleaning.

1970 Dodge Challenger A66


kawahonda

Panel is finished and is ready for cleaning and degreasing. Maybe a hot bath with some warm soap. That will be in the next update.

Panel looks fantastic right now. It is clean, solid, smooth, and ready for what's next.

Looks like I took off .3 millimeters. After 2-3 coats of semi-reduced primer with flex agent, texture, and dye, that will all come back. Non-issue.


Have a home brew!

1970 Dodge Challenger A66

Mrbill426


Mr Lee

Impressed so far... 2 hrs on one panel!  Yes you deserve that beer indeed. 

Surprised .... that there was any grain left after sanding down to good plastic.  Im curious what it would look like if it were just sprayed w color now?  The paint i used on mine really hid a lot. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Remember, wherever you go, there you are.

Brads70

What surprised/stood out me is an American using a mic set for MM!  :))    I still use inches unless forced to with a drawing . Even then I'd rather convert it all to inches. Must be showing my age? LOL

I don't think the texture will be visible in the area's you sanded but if the panel is junk otherwise what have you got to loose? When I worked as a moldmaker I remember sending down mold cavities to Windsor area to get that same texture acid etched into the mold. At that time there was only a handful of places that did it in North America.


anlauto

I'm still waiting to see how the same texture will be replaced on the now smooth panel  :huh: :popcorn:
I've taught you everything you know....but I haven't taught you everything I know....
Check out my web site ....  Alan Gallant Automotive Restoration

Cuda416

Very interested in this process. I wonder how well this can be done to repair the dreaded speaker holes in my vert panels...
U.S.M.C. SFMF
70 Barracuda Vert
69 Dart Vert
65 Valiant

kawahonda

#13
Practiced a little bit with the texturing today.

A little larger profile than the factory. But definitely acceptable and close. Pictures are zoomed to close up view.

I may take another test run, but testing with a little chip is different than spraying a whole panel. I feel confident in the method that I think I'm ready to execute when the time comes.

Keep in mind this texturing system that I am trying is pictured as a "worse" example below. I put a coat of Satin black paint over it, which will will make the texture a little less "sharp". I will eventually be using dye, which will not do this.

I knew from the start that texturing will never be exact like OEM, but the goal here is unless you're looking for it, you shouldn't/wouldn't know.
1970 Dodge Challenger A66

kawahonda

Now that it's mostly cured it looks even better!
1970 Dodge Challenger A66