6.1 Swap

[Chryco Psycho]

It seems that if the engine was run hard the lifters are fine but if it was babied the lifters can starve for oil , worth a look inside for sure .

[anlauto]

So you saved money by buying a used engine, but now you think you might have to invest in repairs ?

[rebelyell]

I wouldn't really say "repairs." I want to eventually do a cam swap and the decision is either now or later. Lifters are an issue on these engines.

Even if I bought a new one, I'd want to put a cam in it.

[soundcontrol]

That's what I haven't seen yet. I know I'll need 3 bolts and a new stud. I was just going to wait and see which went where when it got time to install it.

Do you know if those pans accept a magnetic drain plug?

They should, looks like a standard plug, I have Milodon.

[rebelyell]

FRP said "maybe" on the 6.1 PCM programming. Hotwire gave me a flat "no." So instead of taking a chance, I'm going to sell it with the headers and existing wiring harness when I get everything I need from Hotwire. Oh well.

Off to find an engine stand so I can get the motor mobile. Anybody have the motor mount dimensions on the block? What angle they are? Need to model up a plan in solidworks.

[rebelyell]

Does anybody see an advantage in making an engine test pallet? Getting the harness that's going in the car, finding a junk bellhousing to mount the starter, a junkyard fuel tank/pump and a mechanical oil pressure gage.

My reasoning for this is to have as much ironed out as possible before dropping it in the car. I could have a running engine ready to go when I get the trans kit and the remaining small parts like brackets and lines, etc. Basically its a way to keep me interested while I wait for parts to come in.

LKQ gets me the tank with pump for $60. What are yalls thoughts?

[soundcontrol]

Does anybody see an advantage in making an engine test pallet? Getting the harness that's going in the car, finding a junk bellhousing to mount the starter, a junkyard fuel tank/pump and a mechanical oil pressure gage.

My reasoning for this is to have as much ironed out as possible before dropping it in the car. I could have a running engine ready to go when I get the trans kit and the remaining small parts like brackets and lines, etc. Basically its a way to keep me interested while I wait for parts to come in.

LKQ gets me the tank with pump for $60. What are yalls thoughts?

I thought about that also, got inspired by a friend who did it for his Chevy engines that he uses in boats. He didn't use a bellhousing and no radiator, he just runs a waterhose to the engine. He also makes his own harness and programs the computer himself.

[Dmod1974]

A lot of redundant work if you already have a video and know for a fact that the engine runs fine. 

If you do anything, I'd build a bench programming harness to power the ECM and talk to it via the DLC.  Then you can hook up the ECM to the engine/chassis harness and make sure all of your sensors and wiring work since that's the only unknown.  And if the setup you're running lets you control actuators like injectors and coils, you can test those and their wiring too.

I built one because I am using HP Tuners to change the fan settings on my build, but you could also use it for electronics testing purposes like above.

[rebelyell]

Silver Sport was doing a sale, so I bought the TKX Transmission kit today. I had thought about a Passon a833 5 speed, but decided I would need the better gearing the TKX offered. Plus I get all the hydraulic clutch parts with this kit and everything else I need to install it behind a 6.1.

Next I'm going to get the Dakota Digital gauges and Aeromotive fuel tank from Summit before they go up in price again.

Since inflation is going through the roof, I can lose 8% of my money in savings, or 15% of it in the stock market, or I can spend it on something I'm going to enjoy until it all comes crashing down 

[rebelyell]

Bought the Hotwire harness and Aeromotive fuel tank. Delivery in October.

I need the headers, motor mounts, alternator relocating bracket, oil filter adapter, 6an fuel line, regulator, filter, and fittings.

Then I can start install.

[rebelyell]

Update:

Every part except the fuel pressure regulator, fuel filter, -6an line and fittings will be here by Friday. Had to beat Summit up on price, but I bought their last aeromotive fuel tank and canceled my order with Jegs.

Been cleaning the motor up and finding that grime to be a bit of a challenge.

When I get the motor cleaned, painted, and assembled, I can start the swap process. 


For anyone that's using Hotwire and Aeromotive. Did you run the heavier gauge wire that Aeromotive recommends?

[ragtopdodge]

wife has 200k+ on her 06 300c SRT8.

I wouldn't worry about cam/lifters. 

Worst thing I've heard are w/the rocker arms, but those were 5.7s.  Not sure if 6.1s has that problem.

[Chryco Psycho]

I guess it depends on the load intended & the load yo pan to run on a given circuit , often if the load is higher I use the smaller wire for the circuit trigger a relay for higher loads .

[rebelyell]

I guess it depends on the load intended & the load yo pan to run on a given circuit , often if the load is higher I use the smaller wire for the circuit trigger a relay for higher loads .

Aeromotive told me no smaller than 12gage wire. Hotwire uses 16 and OEM is at 18. I guess I'm going to buy some length of 12ga wire and replace what hotwire gives me with a larger size. Also need to swap out the standard relay for a higher amperage one. I really don't want the fuel pump to fail or melt other parts of the harness because the draw is too much.

[Dmod1974]

The bigger Aeromotive pumps draw a LOT of current.  Always size the wiring based off of the load device (fuel pump in this case) manufacturer's requirements.  Low voltage from inadequate wiring can damage the fuel pump motor too.  I had to run 10ga wiring to my Phantom 525lph pump.