Hellcrate Swap!

[Dmod1974]

I finally ordered up my Hellcrate engine a week ago.  I figured it was time given the inflation that keeps getting worse and the supply constraints that the OEM's are dealing with.  That, and I simply won't have the room to maneuver a cherry picker and engine stand around along with my powetrain cart when my car shell comes back home from paint.

I set the crate down on 4x4's before the delivery guy lowered the pallet jack so I could get my hoist legs underneath it.



Christmas came early!


No damage luckily; everything looks intact.







These come with a brand new dual clutch, flywheel, and exhaust manifolds that I plan on selling off to recoup some costs.  The engine arrives with a brand new oil filter and full sump of oil too.  These must get run in at the factory since there is light soot in the ports and small traces of coolant in the water jackets ( I opened the block drains to make sure before I spin it over and make a mess during the oil pan swap.)

[Dmod1974]

First thing's first - remove the OEM clutch/flywheel and pilot bearing since my Tremec Magnum will not work with them, then dial in my QT bellhousing so I know if I need dowels or not....  And I did naturally enough.  Runout spec is < .005", and I have .007" so adjustment is needed.  Bell to engine perpendicularity was <.005" though. 

I ordered a set from Robb MC since those seem to be the best ones out there. 

[Dmod1974]

I got the engine off of the pallet and onto a stand.  I used a Harbor Freight 2T hoist and 1T stand for this, and it worked perfectly using a load leveler and engine lifting brackets from Schwartz Performance.  Make sure to unplug and unbolt (don't have to fully remove} the coil packs behind the lifting eyes so they don't get damaged.

[Dmod1974]

Also from Schwartz Performance - I opted to install their supercharger coolant crossover setup.  This gives me a lot more space between it and the firewall, and allows you to pick which side you want the coolant hoses to be routed: left, right, or both.  I think it'll make it easier to get to the heater hose connections too.

[larry4406]

Very nice!

Keep that piece of wood crate with the Mopar logo for garage wall art!

What is it going in?

[Dmod1974]

I installed and started routing the Mopar Performance engine harness while it is on the stand.  It fits great as one would expect since it's basically a production part with the emissions crap deleted.  However, my engine being a very late build there are 3 sensors that it came with that are not compatible with my harness. 

It seems the 2018+ production Hellcat engines now have updated knock and EOP sensors, and since this rolls down the line just like them, it received those updated parts while Mopar forgot to update their harness.  I'm ordering new sensors for a 2017 Challenger and that should resolve my issue.  I'll update with the P/N's once I get them in and confirm it works.

I also have to relocate and extend my wiring for the starter since the factory is set up on the passenger side, and my setup will be on the driver side.  The SC coolant temp sensor pigtail also needed to be unwrapped and rerouted to reach, but didn't need any wiring cut.

[Dmod1974]

Very nice!

Keep that piece of wood crate with the Mopar logo for garage wall art!

What is it going in?

It's going in my 74 Challenger.  I have a restoration thread on that already, but figured I'd make a separate one for the engine stuff.

[anlauto]

Very interesting stuff, keep it going 

[Chryco Psycho]

Cool stuff , you need to get a id sump oil pan & the alt will not fit beside the frame rai without notching the lip of the rail , you also need to sort out the oil filter positioning .

[Dmod1974]

Cool stuff , you need to get a id sump oil pan & the alt will not fit beside the frame rai without notching the lip of the rail , you also need to sort out the oil filter positioning .

Yup...  To that end, I might be trying the Magnumforce Racing Hellcat pan.  It's far cheaper than the others, and being a rear sump I think it'll work fine with my Alterktion setup as long as the front portion doesn't hang down too low.  If that doesn't work, I'm probably going to use the Stef's pan.  The Milodon pans seem to be hit or miss quality wise.

For the oil filter, my current plan is to try the factory Ram TRX oil filter adapter.  It's a low profile 90 degree adapter that still as the -12AN oil cooler ports.  Allegedly, it works with the Alterktion frame.  I'll upload pics and confirm if it works or not when I get to that point.

If that doesn't work, I already had planned on using a remote oil filter adapter and filter setup concealed behind the passenger side headlight area.





The alternator will be close, but I've seen a couple of Hellcat E-bodies that did not need any frame notching.  I'm not sure, but it seems like the alternator sits a little lower  on the Hellcat accessory drives than the 6.4L, but we'll see!

[Katfish]

Great info, how did you remove the pilot bearing?
I need to do the same.

First thing's first - remove the OEM clutch/flywheel and pilot bearing since my Tremec Magnum will not work with them, then dial in my QT bellhousing so I know if I need dowels or not....  And I did naturally enough.  Runout spec is < .005", and I have .007" so adjustment is needed.  Bell to engine perpendicularity was <.005" though. 

I ordered a set from Robb MC since those seem to be the best ones out there. 

[Dmod1974]

First thing's first - remove the OEM clutch/flywheel and pilot bearing since my Tremec Magnum will not work with them, then dial in my QT bellhousing so I know if I need dowels or not....  And I did naturally enough.  Runout spec is < .005", and I have .007" so adjustment is needed.  Bell to engine perpendicularity was <.005" though. 

I ordered a set from Robb MC since those seem to be the best ones out there. 

Great info, how did you remove the pilot bearing?
I need to do the same.

I used an actual pilot bearing puller.  It came right out; it's a relatively light press fit.

[Dmod1974]

Well, my day just went to crap.  I yanked the pan off my engine since I need to install a center or rear sump version, and it looks like I got a bad engine right out of the gate.  #3 and probably #4 have spun rod bearings, and there was quite a bit of non-metallic metal shavings in the pan.  No idea how this passed QC, and I know this is going to be a major PITA fighting with them and exchanging this one.  I have remove and reinstall everything I took off, recrate it, shipping, etc...   













I seriously have the worst luck.  They build thousands of these and I get the one that is bad out of the box.  I'm sure being built with COVID induced supply chain, adjusted plant schedules, lock downs, and everything else that has rocked the manufacturing world doesn't help.

[anlauto]

Yikes, that is scary looking  good luck with the warranty battle, please keep us posted  that they stand behind you and give you a new motor

[Brads70]

I feel bad for you, what a pita! Glad you caught it now  though!